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Dueling lowarhorn build

7K views 109 replies 22 participants last post by  jpmst3 
#1 ·
First,
Thanks to Ricci , LTD02 and jpmst3 :D (I know what you did last summer . . .)
\
I cut ply a week ago Saturday, started building on Monday, made some good progress:eek:


here is the link


http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/asarose247/library/?sort=3&page=1


let me know if it works


all the usual appreciated


(would really be that hard to allow pics up to a 2.5 mp limit)
 
#2 ·
subscribed... I'm really interested to see how it works out. I really like the simplicity of the Lowarhorn and the dimensions of the build fit my needs better than the traditional Gjallerhorn, but I'm still a slight bit hesitant since only one person has built one so far. Looking forward to your results (and the supposed insanity of it :D)
 
#3 ·
Another member provided me the Ghorn 2.0 plans . . .
compared to the "simplicity" of the Lhorn, it was almost a no brainer
I don't mind working a good plan but . . .
and the form factor allows some more flexibility wrt to placement, etc. . .
 
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#4 ·
oh yeah, the simplicity and form factor of the Lowarhorn is insane. my ONLY qualm to this over the Gjallerhorn is because Ricci as VERY painstakingly tested the Ghorn to death while this one is a relatively untested build... that's all. the OCD portion of me worries that there is some flaw or untested piece in the build that would cause a hiccup and burn out a driver or something.
 
#5 ·
test post
 

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#9 ·
the only monster horn that I am aware of that employs the uxl is asarose's Submaximus and the compression ratio on that one is just slightly less than the gjallarhorn/lowarhorn. the uxl has apparently held up just fine, even under tremendous output. it should be ok, but i just wanted folks to have as many facts as possible going in...
 
#10 ·
understood... facts are always good. I suppose with 2 of them like I was thinking there would be less stress on the driver since we wouldn't be driving them as hard...

the submaximus is another beast that comes REALLY close to these two, and would be real tempting since it's MADE for the UXL...almost as easy too...and I assume it's more in line with the UXL's capabilities being that it was made for it
 
#11 ·
i wasn't completely happy with the performance of that one...the very bottom end dropped a little more than i was hoping and the measured response indicated that it didn't have to be quite as long to hit the performance target. i'm too hard on it because i was central to its design--folks who have experienced it walk away in awe. I'd give it a little larger mouth and a little shorter horn path in the next version, but I'm not sure if there will be a next version of that one. iirc maxmercy built a giant front loaded horn way back in the day and ran into a similar issue.
 
#17 ·
Cut sheets


The LOWARHORN (all CAPS mandatory ?) thread by jpmst3 has all the good news you need . . . .
I've kreg screwed some pieces to make some of the internal panels because there IS a lot of extra wood, so I'm using just 8 sheets


2 sheets is about $90, so it kinda pays for my inuke fans upgrade and my 12v. SSR relay for the 2 inukes
and I figure about 3 tubes of PL
 
#19 ·
^ home depot Sanderply , .709, sheets
 
#21 ·
^
yes
 
#22 ·
Hi Will ( asarose )

I just saw this thread for the first time tonight. I've been busy with work ( Atlanta last week, and knoxville, before that ).

Anyhow, just wanted to let you know that these are looking awesome thus far, and that I'm looking forward to hearing them once they are setup.

Are both going in your main theater room?
 
#24 ·
That brace will be modded it's just a dry fit in that picture center portion will like be eliminated in deference to 2 short blocks about 1/2 outside of mounting diameter I want a driver so I can get the mounting holes set, then set the bracing so no interference
 
#25 ·
I still hate tapered bracing. Can't wait to try some DIYSG flat packs ... 88 speciaslly perhaps
 
#26 ·
for anyone that might build this
my (questionable) level of ability makes me have to be very patient . . .
until the drivers show up. the best I and maybe you can do it approach the project as a DIY flat pack,
take the time to be ready
dry fit and pre-assemble or be ready to assemble panels and bracing with all the blocking, spacers , pre-drilled bracing, clamps etc.
once you have the drivers and have that part of the install done,
should be rather straight forward
 
#27 ·
Awesome man!

I am a little late to the party and missed this thread. :eek:

I don't think you have anything to worry about with the UXL driver(s). You likely won't be pushing them to their limits anyway. All you need is a HPF and they will take copious power and yield insane SPLs.

Nice job thus far! I cannot wait until you get these monsters fired up! :)
 
#30 ·
^
+1


(='s 2!)


wisely played, Sir . . .
 
#32 ·
the baffle piece has been in and out a few times wrt to hitting the mark and establishing a base line to continue planning/fastening the other panels and bracing parts
this "throat panel has a full length brace along the back and the 6 shorty's shown are for bewtween the it and the baffle
and where the speaker sits has all the clewarance it needs . .
the baffle braces in the horn exit will follow jpmst3's KISS example
 

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#35 ·
these will using my 2 newly minted uxl's , a new inuke6000dsp with the denon X5200
 
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