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Old 03-03-2015, 01:39 PM - Thread Starter
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1st Sub Build, Need Advice

Hey guys. I'm going to be starting my first ever subwoofer build and was looking for some advice. I plan on building a down firing 15" sub in a side table similar to @squiers007 end table build. I came up with a size of 18" wide x 28" deep x 24.75" Tall. The sub will be 3" from the floor. I made the ports 1.5" tall x 38" of total length. I have about 7" from the back of the sub to where the port ends to play with so I can make the port length longer or shorter if need be. Hopefully @LTD02 or @chalugadp could help out with that part. I plan on using a 15" Dayton RSS390HO. Check out the pictures of the sketchup and let me know if you think I need to make any changes to the design. Thanks!
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Old 03-03-2015, 01:43 PM
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Well that looks familiar! Lol, I like it! When I get back to a computer I'll model it up in Winisd and see how our looks. Do you have plans for an amp? What port tune are you going for?

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Old 03-03-2015, 01:55 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm not sure about the amp yet. I plan on adding a mini marty also in the near future so I think that I may go with a inuke 3000dsp. For port tune I would say right around 20 - 22hz. I'm a total noob as far as subwoofers go though, so I might be way off on that.
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Old 03-03-2015, 02:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psavage1 View Post
I'm not sure about the amp yet. I plan on adding a mini marty also in the near future so I think that I may go with a inuke 3000dsp. For port tune I would say right around 20 - 22hz. I'm a total noob as far as subwoofers go though, so I might be way off on that.

Don't break your head over it. It's not difficult. You've got a good start going with the dimensions and port length ironed out, but figure out early on which driver you're going to use.


Don't overspend on drivers. Get something that punches hard - I use car drivers, usually two in separate compartments to take advantage of the juice the amp puts out. The guys around here will tip you off on tweaking it for tuning.


Watch out for noise from the amp. The only satisfactory solution I've found is to remove the fan from the chassis (it's the fan's vibration that makes most of the noise, not the air movement) and if that will mess up your warranty, consider a really well built plate amp - perhaps detached from the sub box itself. I'll be you get some very solid results..


I hate noisy amps. You will too, no matter how good it sounds (unless you manage to get the amp far enough away or sealed in something to keep you from going nuts). The iNuke will do a fantastic job if it doesn't drown out quiet passages. I've been up and down that road, it's no fun.
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Old 03-03-2015, 02:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Don't break your head over it. It's not difficult. You've got a good start going with the dimensions and port length ironed out, but figure out early on which driver you're going to use.


Don't overspend on drivers. Get something that punches hard - I use car drivers, usually two in separate compartments to take advantage of the juice the amp puts out. The guys around here will tip you off on tweaking it for tuning.
Thanks, blu-dog. I plan on using the 15" Dayton RSS390HO like chalugadp recommends in his micro marty build. Figure the dimensions are pretty similar to that build so hopefully I'll be happy with the results. I have a Dayton Sub-1200 right now so I'm sure it won't be hard to surpass the performance of that.
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Old 03-03-2015, 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by psavage1 View Post
Thanks, blu-dog. I plan on using the 15" Dayton RSS390HO like chalugadp recommends in his micro marty build. Figure the dimensions are pretty similar to that build so hopefully I'll be happy with the results. I have a Dayton Sub-1200 right now so I'm sure it won't be hard to surpass the performance of that.

That will WORK! I bet it will turn out great...have fun with it.
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Old 03-03-2015, 06:27 PM
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as designed, you have about 4.25 or so cubic feet internal volume and a tuning point of around 19-20hz.
increasing the port height to 2.0" will increase the tuning point by about 1hz to 20-21hz, but will cut down on air speed in the port quite a bit (from about 26m/s to about 19m/s 500 watts at 20hz).
either way will be ok. I'd probably go for the slightly larger port, but that's a judgment call that could go either way.

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Old 03-03-2015, 07:01 PM - Thread Starter
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as designed, you have about 4.25 or so cubic feet internal volume and a tuning point of around 19-20hz.
increasing the port height to 2.0" will increase the tuning point by about 1hz to 20-21hz, but will cut down on air speed in the port quite a bit (from about 26m/s to about 19m/s 500 watts at 20hz).
either way will be ok. I'd probably go for the slightly larger port, but that's a judgment call that could go either way.
Thanks, so other than making the port taller, I should be good to go? Will that just reduce port noise? Also since I'm mostly going to be using it for movies, I would want a lower tuning point, right?
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Old 03-03-2015, 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by psavage1 View Post
Thanks, so other than making the port taller, I should be good to go? Will that just reduce port noise? Also since I'm mostly going to be using it for movies, I would want a lower tuning point, right?
With Minimarty coming tuning won't matter with micro. 20 or 21 are really the same. Id get the 6000 amp. The 390 can handle 1100 to 1400 watts and Minimarty with ultimax can handle the whole channel from 6000. Using the 3000 will lose a lot of dbs.

These two subs are a killer combo.
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Old 03-03-2015, 09:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post
With Minimarty coming tuning won't matter with micro. 20 or 21 are really the same. Id get the 6000 amp. The 390 can handle 1100 to 1400 watts and Minimarty with ultimax can handle the whole channel from 6000. Using the 3000 will lose a lot of dbs.

These two subs are a killer combo.
Perfect, that's what I was wondering. I'll get the 6000dsp then. I'll start getting a list of supplies that I need. Thanks guys!
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Old 03-03-2015, 09:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Here's my list so far. Let me know what you guys think.

Subwoofer: Dayton Audio RSS390HO
Amp: iNUKE 6000DSP
Wire: 12AWG Wire
Connector: Neutrik Speakon Connector
Cable: 25ft NL4 Speakon Cable
Reciever to iNUKE Cable: XLR to RCA Cable
And then some kind of 1.5" foam mattress topper to line the inside with. I'll check out Wal-Mart and see what they have tomorrow.

Anything that I'm missing?
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Old 03-04-2015, 11:11 AM
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I second LTD02 on upping the port height to 2", the difference in tune will not be noticed especially once the Mini marty is online. But the decreased port velocity will mean you will never notice any port chuffing.

Your list looks good. Let the build commence! What type of finish are you going to do, paint or veneer?

Check out my End-Table Marty Build
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Old 03-04-2015, 11:27 AM - Thread Starter
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Your list looks good. Let the build commence! What type of finish are you going to do, paint or veneer?
Still unsure on the finish. I figure I'll build it first and then figure out what do for the finish after. The wife wants something black or grey so I was thinking of maybe a gray zebrawood veneer like this. I'll have to get some samples of veneer and see what we like.

I'll pick up some MDF tonight and get started on it either tonight or tomorrow. I'll try to remember to take pictures of the build progress.
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Old 03-04-2015, 11:37 AM
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Still unsure on the finish. I figure I'll build it first and then figure out what do for the finish after. The wife wants something black or grey so I was thinking of maybe a gray zebrawood veneer like this. I'll have to get some samples of veneer and see what we like.

I'll pick up some MDF tonight and get started on it either tonight or tomorrow. I'll try to remember to take pictures of the build progress.
That would look pretty awesome! Can't wait to see the finished product.

Check out my End-Table Marty Build
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Old 03-04-2015, 11:43 AM
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All those flat vertical "braces" aren't doing anything. Get rid of them and extend the port supports to the end of the box and it will be fine. If you want overkill do one on the center of each panel but turned on it's edge.
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Old 03-04-2015, 02:20 PM - Thread Starter
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All those flat vertical "braces" aren't doing anything. Get rid of them and extend the port supports to the end of the box and it will be fine. If you want overkill do one on the center of each panel but turned on it's edge.
Do you mean extending the port like this?
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Old 03-04-2015, 02:32 PM
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Yes, looks good.
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Old 11-17-2016, 08:53 PM
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this is just what im looking for
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