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post #1 of 295 Old 03-20-2015, 04:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Interesting DIY rotary subwoofer project

In my quest for knowledge (because knowledge=power and all...) I came across this youtuber with a pretty intriguing DIY project:


He obviously has a great deal of technical knowledge to begin with, but he seems to be on the track towards really making this a fun project for those without $25,000.

Thoughts on his progress so far?
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post #2 of 295 Old 03-20-2015, 04:59 PM
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to be continued obviously
and hopefully under better controlled and more unlimited bandwidth conditions, post some graphs etc.


iirc Big Daddy, either over at HTS or Audioholics has a few things to say about HIS rotary subs,
at least I recall those discussions from 3-4 yers ago, haven't checked lately myself


aslo, there is a "slo moton rotary sub diy thread here at AVS , somewhere . .


get that man to post here

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post #3 of 295 Old 03-20-2015, 09:25 PM
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That guy has a very funny dry sense of humor and an awesome voice.

Probably could have edited the video down to 15 minutes.

Can't deny his Ingenuity. Inspiring to say the least. Hopefully he doesn't kill himself with that thing.

Love this kind of stuff!
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post #4 of 295 Old 03-21-2015, 03:25 AM
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Hello guys it is I that created the sub
I'm yet to upload another video as it has changed slightly since then (added reinforcement to propellers and removed rattle)
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Rotary subs are cool
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post #6 of 295 Old 03-21-2015, 07:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by chris hudlin View Post
Hello guys it is I that created the sub
I'm yet to upload another video as it has changed slightly since then (added reinforcement to propellers and removed rattle)
Thanks for joining us over here. We'd love to see more of your progress in a step by step fashion! Maybe the hive-mind can perfect the $25,000 holy grail!
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post #7 of 295 Old 03-21-2015, 11:21 AM
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Thanks for joining us over here. We'd love to see more of your progress in a step by step fashion! Maybe the hive-mind can perfect the $25,000 holy grail!
Haha the video is a step by step. I'll admit though that bits are missing that are needed. I will do a guide, but it'll take around a week or two because I'm in the process of moving homes
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post #8 of 295 Old 03-21-2015, 05:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Looking forward to the guide. If you could include links to parts, that would be helpful also!

Have a safe move!
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post #9 of 295 Old 03-22-2015, 03:10 AM
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Looking forward to the guide. If you could include links to parts, that would be helpful also!

Have a safe move!
No problem, and thank you
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post #10 of 295 Old 03-31-2015, 04:32 AM
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Hi guys nearly done the guide, just got a few more pages to go. Its bigger than I thought. Can I upload it as a word document here?
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post #11 of 295 Old 03-31-2015, 04:41 AM - Thread Starter
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You can probably just copy and paste it into multiple posts in this thread?
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post #12 of 295 Old 03-31-2015, 04:57 AM
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What, exactly, is a rotary sub and how is it better than a typical sealed or ported sub(s)? Sorry, I know that I could either search or Google, but I am lazy and don't have much time. Lol
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post #13 of 295 Old 03-31-2015, 05:01 AM - Thread Starter
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A Google search would really help just from an image standpoint. Picture a fan with giant blades and variable blade pitch. The variation in pitch changes the compression generated by the fan. This creates the pulse/compression for the bass

Rotary subwoofers can hit frequencies of 1hz with significant output. Low wattage and astronomical bass potential compared to classical subwoofer design.
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post #14 of 295 Old 03-31-2015, 06:10 AM
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hmm

Wonder why someone couldn't possibly base the rotary aspects on the rotor head from an R/C helicopter, e.g,:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXCRXX&P=SM

While that example is quite small, there are some very muscular R/C helicopter designs on the market which could absorb several horsepower without breaking a sweat.

.

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post #15 of 295 Old 03-31-2015, 07:30 AM
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Originally Posted by mtnboydl View Post
You can probably just copy and paste it into multiple posts in this thread?
its really long. i have also just discovered that i can lol
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post #16 of 295 Old 03-31-2015, 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by ejh2854 View Post
hmm

Wonder why someone couldn't possibly base the rotary aspects on the rotor head from an R/C helicopter, e.g,:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXCRXX&P=SM

While that example is quite small, there are some very muscular R/C helicopter designs on the market which could absorb several horsepower without breaking a sweat.

.
RC motor doesnt have enough torque. thats why i have a half horsepower motor to keep the speed consistant
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Was referencing just the rotor head and swashplate aspects, Chris... not the drive motor.
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post #18 of 295 Old 03-31-2015, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by ejh2854 View Post
Was referencing just the rotor head and swashplate aspects, Chris... not the drive motor.
well if you watch the video, you will find that it is biased on using a helicopter rotor.. infact the whole front end is from a 450 t-rex 5 blade flybarless rotor kit
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post #19 of 295 Old 03-31-2015, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by ejh2854 View Post
hmm

Wonder why someone couldn't possibly base the rotary aspects on the rotor head from an R/C helicopter...
Perhaps if you looked closer?

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post #20 of 295 Old 04-01-2015, 03:18 PM
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well if you watch the video, you will find that it is biased on using a helicopter rotor.. infact the whole front end is from a 450 t-rex 5 blade flybarless rotor kit
Apologies to you, Chris- I didn't have the time to watch the video end-for-end, and missed that aspect as I skipped through to see the performance. .

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post #21 of 295 Old 04-02-2015, 04:56 AM
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Hello Guys, I'm following Chris on YouTube for his project, because this project is totally Awesome ( yeahh really really !!! ) I've already looking for some compoments of the Rotary SUB, so here are some ( I'm from France so, sorry if some links are in french, And sorry for the spelling mistakes ^^)

The Rotor Head :
-hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__12612__HobbyKing_450_Helicopter_5_Blade_Flybarle ss_Rotor_Head

Electric Motor (three-phase) :
-ebay.fr/itm/0-37-KW-1-2-HP-Trois-3-Phase-electrique-Moteur-2800-RPM-2-Mat-37KW-1-2-HP-/331448460253?pt=FR_YO_MaisonJardin_Bricolage_Elect roniqueComposants&hash=item4d2bde23dd

For the amplifier, i've choose to take a Plate amplifier, which his probably the best/easier option that you can have for the sub :
-amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-SPA250-Subwoofer-Amplifier/dp/B0070Z81MW/ref=pd_sim_sbs_e_1/178-9711870-6797957?ie=UTF8&refRID=15QF5DTQNA2N8PHG3GNQ
-amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-SPA500-Subwoofer-Amplifier/dp/B0048FHWL8

For the subwoofer, you clearly need to destroy one, by the way you can find Subwoofer on ebay or amazon at low price (Choose the good one ) but i think you will never find one like in the video project... ( Help us on this thing Chris ^^) I don't remember how many inch was the sub in the project, but i think a 15' inch can do the job.

For the variable frequency drive I was not able to find something not expensive, so I can't help you on this thing...

Well that's all I can Give you for the moment ^^ Hope it will helpful for some peoples, See you guys
Bye !!
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post #22 of 295 Old 04-02-2015, 05:16 AM
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Apologies to you, Chris- I didn't have the time to watch the video end-for-end, and missed that aspect as I skipped through to see the performance. .
no apologies required its right at the start of the vid though like 5 or 10 mins in
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post #23 of 295 Old 04-02-2015, 05:17 AM
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Originally Posted by infinity666 View Post
Hello Guys, I'm following Chris on YouTube for his project, because this project is totally Awesome ( yeahh really really !!! ) I've already looking for some compoments of the Rotary SUB, so here are some ( I'm from France so, sorry if some links are in french, And sorry for the spelling mistakes ^^)

The Rotor Head :
-hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__12612__HobbyKing_450_Helicopter_5_Blade_Flybarle ss_Rotor_Head

Electric Motor (three-phase) :
-ebay.fr/itm/0-37-KW-1-2-HP-Trois-3-Phase-electrique-Moteur-2800-RPM-2-Mat-37KW-1-2-HP-/331448460253?pt=FR_YO_MaisonJardin_Bricolage_Elect roniqueComposants&hash=item4d2bde23dd

For the amplifier, i've choose to take a Plate amplifier, which his probably the best/easier option that you can have for the sub :
-amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-SPA250-Subwoofer-Amplifier/dp/B0070Z81MW/ref=pd_sim_sbs_e_1/178-9711870-6797957?ie=UTF8&refRID=15QF5DTQNA2N8PHG3GNQ
-amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-SPA500-Subwoofer-Amplifier/dp/B0048FHWL8

For the subwoofer, you clearly need to destroy one, by the way you can find Subwoofer on ebay or amazon at low price (Choose the good one ) but i think you will never find one like in the video project... ( Help us on this thing Chris ^^) I don't remember how many inch was the sub in the project, but i think a 15' inch can do the job.

For the variable frequency drive I was not able to find something not expensive, so I can't help you on this thing...

Well that's all I can Give you for the moment ^^ Hope it will helpful for some peoples, See you guys
Bye !!
the sub i used was a sony xplod 1300w but you cant get these now. you need something similar to that
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post #24 of 295 Old 04-02-2015, 06:31 PM
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any chance the 2nd video uploaded sometime soon?

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post #25 of 295 Old 04-02-2015, 06:47 PM
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Does the donor sub need high xmax or high BL? Or both? I'd assume it would need a decent bit of xmax to move the fan blades far enough.
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post #26 of 295 Old 04-02-2015, 07:13 PM
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Building a shopping list, are we?


It would seem that using a regular AVR with a sub out , the signal is going to need to LPF'd thru some separate gizmo/ well designed XO device
to allow for and blend with "regular" subs to do the right thing . . .
or do we have that already?

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post #27 of 295 Old 04-03-2015, 11:19 AM
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You dontbhave to have anything fancy, you can use a 200w sub it doesn't matter provided that it has the required holes
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Other than the required holes, no doubt the simplest requirement . .
lets nail some other feasible/parameters/considerations down . .
DO you have any specs for the xplod sub
What specifically made you chose that sub?
What is a desired/optimal/acceptable range wrt to xmax for the xplod or for any other sacrificial sub?
Will more xmax be better or is the there a limit the helicopter mechanism can handle wrt to blade action?
What source AVR can pass a usable signal in the ULF range of the rotary?
What source material currently available contains this ULF signal
What is the amp wattage that is considered to provide the power, with a bit of overhead
What is the expected total freq range for the rotary
What will be the usable freq range when integrated into a system, multiple sub system (sure, can depend on other subs)
Would a minidsp 2 x 4 be able to provide a LPF to provide smooth integration wrt to other subs and mains
What are the limits wrt to FR for a minidsp?


If I have a horn or horns honking out 1K+ watts each say from 15-18 to 60 or 80hz, what does it take -power?-for this thing to be heard wrt to hearing sensitivity at that low a freq. I've seen charts posted over at BF (and other places) and the power needed to produce SPL's down there are outta sight . . .


please, continue
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www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1485120-submaximus-large-front-loaded-horn
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...orn-build.html
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post #29 of 295 Old 04-03-2015, 04:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asarose247 View Post
Other than the required holes, no doubt the simplest requirement . .
lets nail some other feasible/parameters/considerations down . .
DO you have any specs for the xplod sub
What specifically made you chose that sub?
What is a desired/optimal/acceptable range wrt to xmax for the xplod or for any other sacrificial sub?
Will more xmax be better or is the there a limit the helicopter mechanism can handle wrt to blade action?
What source AVR can pass a usable signal in the ULF range of the rotary?
What source material currently available contains this ULF signal
What is the amp wattage that is considered to provide the power, with a bit of overhead
What is the expected total freq range for the rotary
What will be the usable freq range when integrated into a system, multiple sub system (sure, can depend on other subs)
Would a minidsp 2 x 4 be able to provide a LPF to provide smooth integration wrt to other subs and mains
What are the limits wrt to FR for a minidsp?


If I have a horn or horns honking out 1K+ watts each say from 15-18 to 60 or 80hz, what does it take -power?-for this thing to be heard wrt to hearing sensitivity at that low a freq. I've seen charts posted over at BF (and other places) and the power needed to produce SPL's down there are outta sight . . .


please, continue
why so many questions? you dont need to get way technical with it.. i chose the sub because it was what i had and it has :S a hole that goes through the magnet to the center of the cone.

the sub doesnt need to be too powerful otherwise youll bush the rotor controll arms out of range and break them.
the xplod sub was a 1300w in car subwoofer rated to 16hz. i cant remember what size it was
the angle of the blades turn 45deg each way. the only way youll make it better will depend on how wide and long you make the propellers and how fast it rotates
the amp output needs to be 200w minimium
the frequency range is DC to 25/30Hzmax
the useable freq range will depend on your setup. again from DC to 30hz. the sub will take over with the higher notes and will assist the lower notes
i have no idea about the miniDPS thing you speak of. i just used an in car XO. this had outputs separate to the sub output so i could also have stereo L/R and i think rears too if i wanted to hook and amp to the outputs. so id get 4.1 in effect. but i can hook that sub up and still use mu other amp so i have better quality sound
the horns thing.. i have no idea.. at all. i have a high-end system, but not horns or anything like that
the rotary sub will produce a 3hz sine wave at atleast 90db+ using a 300w amplifier

Last edited by chris hudlin; 04-03-2015 at 04:23 PM.
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post #30 of 295 Old 04-03-2015, 04:27 PM
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Does the donor sub need high xmax or high BL? Or both? I'd assume it would need a decent bit of xmax to move the fan blades far enough.
doesnt have to have high xmax because when you have removed the outer foam/rubber ring from the basket, the driver moves twice as more freely, so will be able to drive the rotors without any issues, provided your driver will be able to handle the wind resistance
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