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Old 03-27-2015, 01:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Another Noob Seeking Advice

First of all, wow, never thought I'd be thinking about a DYI subwoofer, but here I am. My wife gave me approval to spend some money on my home theater (she hates it, but knows I love it), soI've been reading as much as I can about subwoofers over the last couple of days and it sounds like a dyi sub offers more bang for the buck.

My question is, for a 1500 cu ft room in a rectangle 20x10x7.5 with 120" screen on 10ft wall, two rows of seating with my prime spot about midday down the room at ~9.5'
1) would I be better off buying an outlaw or HSU subwoofer or building my own?
2) Is it very difficult?
3) Can you recommend 1 or a pair of subs I should do (assuming you recommend dyi)?

Very much would like a sub that hits 20hz or lower...not sure why, just think that would be cool. Would really like to feel the sound effects from things like the hobbit and such. Also, I enjoy playing Halo and would love to feel it more when some guy sneaks up and assassinates me (happens quite frequently...what, never said I was good!). I think I can get my wife to let me spend around $800. I hear people mentioning two subs are way better than one...would that be true for my space? No neighbors and I really want that low, deep bass...badly.

Currently I'm using a dayton 1200. Not sure how low it hits, but I think it sounds pretty good in the corner. Would I notice a huge difference between that and a dyi sub or hsu or something?

I don't have much experience building things, but do enjoy the challenge, and I'm pretty good at fixing cars and do an okay job with projects around the house (with blemishes for sure). Any feedback or help would be much appreciated. Thank you kindly in advance!

-Sam

Last edited by Ryanweather; 03-27-2015 at 01:52 PM.
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Old 03-27-2015, 02:06 PM
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while you can, go as big as budget allows (plus a bit more if you can beg it),
that room wants 2 subs and maybe an Inuke3000DSP
with the right kit, DIY ROI beats most commercial stuff wrt to price/value/DAMN!/factors/ratios
i'm no knows what i'm talking about guy, but for all I've read here,
you will probably get recommendations for a marty variant of even simpler (marty kits discontinued) a
Stonehenge.
my experience with an" 88 Special" as a kit was
the right stuff, right now, no doubt
keep reading/ learning
you'll get plenty of support from the group here,
you won't fail to get OH WOW results

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http://www.avsforum.com/forum/401-di...rs-subwoofers/
www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1485120-submaximus-large-front-loaded-horn
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Old 03-27-2015, 02:09 PM
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If you went with DIY and depending on if you decided to have just one and maybe a second later on I would suggest this:
one DIYsoundgroup 4cu.ft. sealed enclosure 120.
one Stereo Integrity HT18D2 174 shipped
one Behringer Inuke nu3000 200 shipped
misc., wire connectors glue paint etc.100?
I am suggesting the 3000 only if you decide to have the option of going with a second later on otherwise a nu1000.
If you want to go lower than 20hz look at this page:

http://www.data-bass.com/data?page=systems

then scroll down to the DIY SI HT18D2 how does 12.5 sound?
total cost roughly 600 and lets just say you wanted to build another you could have 2 18"subs with over 1000wpc for under 1000. I went with a vented enclosure and I will have around 1150-1200 total for both of mine.

Equipment: Panasonic 42" LCD TV, Panasonic DMP-BD65 BluRay, HP Compaq 6000 Micro Tower - for movies and music, Yamaha RX-V1600, Bic DV62SI Front, Bic DV62 CLR, Polk Monitor4 SB. Polk TSI 100 SR.2 Marty Cubes w/SI Ht18 D4 powered by Inuke 3000DSP

Last edited by nwf477; 03-27-2015 at 02:10 PM. Reason: wrong wattage
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Old 03-27-2015, 02:13 PM
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iNuke3KDSP= 279
HT18x2=348
MDF/clamps/glue/speakons/cabling= ~200

Bangin'
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Why waste $ on more cheap stuff, it's like challenging a dragon with a pocket knife.
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Old 03-27-2015, 02:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muzz View Post
iNuke3KDSP= 279
HT18x2=348
MDF/clamps/glue/speakons/cabling= ~200

Bangin'
If you look and ask you can get the 3000DSP between 250-260. I bought mine from SameDay Music it was listed for 279 but I asked and got it for 259.
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Old 03-27-2015, 02:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muzz View Post
iNuke3KDSP= 279
HT18x2=348
MDF/clamps/glue/speakons/cabling= ~200

Bangin'
^^ This.

See MartySub FAQ for cut sheets, tips, tricks and other info.
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Old 03-27-2015, 02:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muzz View Post
iNuke3KDSP= 279
HT18x2=348
MDF/clamps/glue/speakons/cabling= ~200

Bangin'
Awesome, now I'm getting excited. How much for the wood? Do you buy a kit or cut it yourself? My dad is giving me a hand-me-down table saw, would probably have to buy a router too (but need to anyways since I'm flipping my door that opens into my theater room) and some clamps, but at Harbor Freight this should all be relatively inexpensive.
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Old 03-27-2015, 02:53 PM
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if you buy the wood roughly 40.00 a sheet so maybe 2 sheets you will save even more. The Marty Cube needs 1.25 sheets.

Equipment: Panasonic 42" LCD TV, Panasonic DMP-BD65 BluRay, HP Compaq 6000 Micro Tower - for movies and music, Yamaha RX-V1600, Bic DV62SI Front, Bic DV62 CLR, Polk Monitor4 SB. Polk TSI 100 SR.2 Marty Cubes w/SI Ht18 D4 powered by Inuke 3000DSP
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Old 03-27-2015, 02:55 PM
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get into the marty FAQ thread and one other I can'r remember the name right now but you can ask chalugadp, he'll do you right . . .
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DIY FAN Denon X5200 , Emotiva UPA7, for 7.3.4 ATMOS/DSSHARP 80" U
FL/FR: DIYSG Fusion 15's , Center: DIYSG "88 Special" , SL/SR: RC3II , SRL/SRR: F-3Towers, TF & TR: SLX
2 30" BF THTLP'S , SUBMAXIMUS, 2 x Inuke6000DSP & 2 driverless LHORN cabs
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/401-di...rs-subwoofers/
www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1485120-submaximus-large-front-loaded-horn
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Old 03-27-2015, 03:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asarose247 View Post
get into the marty FAQ thread and one other I can'r remember the name right now but you can ask chalugadp, he'll do you right . . .
The Johnny Sub?
Between the Cube and Mini in size.

Whatever size he wants, it'll be there...and perform.

Why waste $ on more cheap stuff, it's like challenging a dragon with a pocket knife.
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Old 03-27-2015, 03:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryanweather View Post
Awesome, now I'm getting excited. How much for the wood? Do you buy a kit or cut it yourself? My dad is giving me a hand-me-down table saw, would probably have to buy a router too (but need to anyways since I'm flipping my door that opens into my theater room) and some clamps, but at Harbor Freight this should all be relatively inexpensive.
You can buy sub kits if you want at DIYSG or Parts express if you want(you still have to put together the flat packs), but you can build them much cheaper if you have a FEW tools and time.
What size subs do you want, how much room can you allot to the subs, and do you have multiple locations to put them in your room?

Why waste $ on more cheap stuff, it's like challenging a dragon with a pocket knife.
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Old 03-27-2015, 03:13 PM
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the answer is D: All of the above
now aren't you glad you asked?....
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DIY FAN Denon X5200 , Emotiva UPA7, for 7.3.4 ATMOS/DSSHARP 80" U
FL/FR: DIYSG Fusion 15's , Center: DIYSG "88 Special" , SL/SR: RC3II , SRL/SRR: F-3Towers, TF & TR: SLX
2 30" BF THTLP'S , SUBMAXIMUS, 2 x Inuke6000DSP & 2 driverless LHORN cabs
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/401-di...rs-subwoofers/
www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1485120-submaximus-large-front-loaded-horn
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Old 03-27-2015, 03:37 PM
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Two Minimarty will crush that room with wall shaking bass. Two martycubes will probably get you what you want and are smaller.
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Old 03-27-2015, 04:00 PM
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His room is smaller than mine I have 1794cu.ft. One M/C can be heard pretty clearly outside doing yard work Monday I order the second 18 my house will never be the same.

Equipment: Panasonic 42" LCD TV, Panasonic DMP-BD65 BluRay, HP Compaq 6000 Micro Tower - for movies and music, Yamaha RX-V1600, Bic DV62SI Front, Bic DV62 CLR, Polk Monitor4 SB. Polk TSI 100 SR.2 Marty Cubes w/SI Ht18 D4 powered by Inuke 3000DSP
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Old 03-27-2015, 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by nwf477 View Post
His room is smaller than mine I have 1794cu.ft. One M/C can be heard pretty clearly outside doing yard work Monday I order the second 18 my house will never be the same.
It's all relative. Jbrown has the same size room and he had four equivalent full martys. Now hes putting six sealed 18 in there. The nice thing about having multiple subs is smoothing response. I have plus or minus 2dbs response with my four subs. Two would give plenty of spl but response and tactile feel are greatly helped with sub 3 and 4 .
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Old 03-27-2015, 05:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by muzz View Post
You can buy sub kits if you want at DIYSG or Parts express if you want(you still have to put together the flat packs), but you can build them much cheaper if you have a FEW tools and time.
What size subs do you want, how much room can you allot to the subs, and do you have multiple locations to put them in your room?
The bottom of my screen is 22.5" off the floor. My main channel is mounted above the screen, which I find works better with two row seating, so anything below the screen has to be shorter than 22.5". The other option is in the back of the room, which has about 4' of space to the back wall by 8' from side wall to side wall by the ceiling height of 7.5'. Not sure if subs in the rear will have as much impact to the first row of seats, where I like to sit. My dayton 1200 right now is in the front left corner and fits nicely below the bottom of the screen.

Will the dayton kits hit 20hz? All I saw was 4 cu ft...that seems small compared to the martysubs.

I don't care about the size as long as they hit 20hz or lower with some authority.
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Old 03-27-2015, 05:19 PM
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hi ryan, some folks have shared their experience here:
Large Ported Dayton HO18's


at this point, there are countless different form factors (tall, narrow, wide, ports up down sideways, etc.).
the 3000dsp/ht18/martysub is still about as good as one can do. a pair will put you deep into the 1% off home bass power.

Listen. It's All Good.
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Old 03-27-2015, 05:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Two Minimarty will crush that room with wall shaking bass. Two martycubes will probably get you what you want and are smaller.
When you say "crush" do you mean low frequency or spl? Sorry, new to this and just trying to understand. I definitely want that "crush" feeling though.

Also, I do have a wife and a younger kid, so my loud movie viewing will be handled when their away (which is frequently since I work mornings and have a few hours before they get home from school–wife is a teacher). However, when they are home, my son loves to play the occasional video game with me, but he doesn't like it too loud.

Do these subs also allow for quieter viewing? If not, I'll just unplug them...
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Old 03-27-2015, 05:26 PM
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Smile

Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post
It's all relative. Jbrown has the same size room and he had four equivalent full martys. Now hes putting six sealed 18 in there. The nice thing about having multiple subs is smoothing response. I have plus or minus 2dbs response with my four subs. Two would give plenty of spl but response and tactile feel are greatly helped with sub 3 and 4 .
I wish I was like you guys who needs furniture when you can have subs and call them furniture. Some call them end tables some coffee others have a sub wall some in corners some mounted in the floor wall what is next lets design an enclosure using the house as the cabinet.

Equipment: Panasonic 42" LCD TV, Panasonic DMP-BD65 BluRay, HP Compaq 6000 Micro Tower - for movies and music, Yamaha RX-V1600, Bic DV62SI Front, Bic DV62 CLR, Polk Monitor4 SB. Polk TSI 100 SR.2 Marty Cubes w/SI Ht18 D4 powered by Inuke 3000DSP
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Old 03-27-2015, 05:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryanweather View Post
The bottom of my screen is 22.5" off the floor. My main channel is mounted above the screen, which I find works better with two row seating, so anything below the screen has to be shorter than 22.5". The other option is in the back of the room, which has about 4' of space to the back wall by 8' from side wall to side wall by the ceiling height of 7.5'. Not sure if subs in the rear will have as much impact to the first row of seats, where I like to sit. My dayton 1200 right now is in the front left corner and fits nicely below the bottom of the screen.

Will the dayton kits hit 20hz? All I saw was 4 cu ft...that seems small compared to the martysubs.

I don't care about the size as long as they hit 20hz or lower with some authority.
You can shape the sub any way you want, we just need to figure out the dimensions for the actual DRIVER/SUB you want to use.... it can be low and skinny, long and fat , etc... it's the Volume and port area that matter in a ported sub.
Alot of kits will hit 20hz, the SI HT18 would rock 90% of households beyond want, multiple kits rattle the average house pretty badly.

Why waste $ on more cheap stuff, it's like challenging a dragon with a pocket knife.
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Old 03-27-2015, 05:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryanweather View Post
When you say "crush" do you mean low frequency or spl? Sorry, new to this and just trying to understand. I definitely want that "crush" feeling though.

Also, I do have a wife and a younger kid, so my loud movie viewing will be handled when their away (which is frequently since I work mornings and have a few hours before they get home from school–wife is a teacher). However, when they are home, my son loves to play the occasional video game with me, but he doesn't like it too loud.

Do these subs also allow for quieter viewing? If not, I'll just unplug them...
Crush meaning from 16hz to 100hz of deafening chest slamming back massaging bitter beer face bass. No need to unplug subs. Just turn bass level down with avr.
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Old 03-27-2015, 05:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post
hi ryan, some folks have shared their experience here:
Large Ported Dayton HO18's


at this point, there are countless different form factors (tall, narrow, wide, ports up down sideways, etc.).
the 3000dsp/ht18/martysub is still about as good as one can do. a pair will put you deep into the 1% off home bass power.
Thanks, I think I'll tackle one of these Martysubs. They seem like the best bang for the buck and crush the HSU/SVS/Outlaw subs everyone seems to recommend. Why do they recommend these subs if DYI produces these kinds of results at a fraction of the cost? While I haven't gotten my hands dirty just yet, they seem like they're at least doable even for me. I might screw up building it, but it sounds like at worst you're out 40$ for some wood...just start over...is that right?
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Old 03-27-2015, 05:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryanweather View Post
Thanks, I think I'll tackle one of these Martysubs. They seem like the best bang for the buck and crush the HSU/SVS/Outlaw subs everyone seems to recommend. Why do they recommend these subs if DYI produces these kinds of results at a fraction of the cost? While I haven't gotten my hands dirty just yet, they seem like they're at least doable even for me. I might screw up building it, but it sounds like at worst you're out 40$ for some wood...just start over...is that right?
People like to buy instead of diy. Less work or they have no tools.
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Old 03-27-2015, 05:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Alot of kits will hit 20hz, the SI HT18 would rock 90% of households beyond want, multiple kits rattle the average house pretty badly.
Can you recommend one? Or point me in the direction, just to compare? If it's not too much more, kit might be easier...but making the cuts and reading about these martysubs doesn't sound too difficult to put together. But just in case, I would like to see a kit that would rock the house (better than the hsu vtf-15h k2).
Also, what type of dimensions should I go with in this space:

Below the screen: 22" tall I have about 7.5' in width and about 2 to 3' before it's too close to first row...

Sorry for all the questions, I've got a break at work and just trying to piece things together in my head.
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Old 03-27-2015, 05:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryanweather View Post
Can you recommend one? Or point me in the direction, just to compare? If it's not too much more, kit might be easier...but making the cuts and reading about these martysubs doesn't sound too difficult to put together. But just in case, I would like to see a kit that would rock the house (better than the hsu vtf-15h k2).
Also, what type of dimensions should I go with in this space:

Below the screen: 22" tall I have about 7.5' in width and about 2 to 3' before it's too close to first row...

Sorry for all the questions, I've got a break at work and just trying to piece things together in my head.
That's good space, plenty of room for 2 beasts bud.
The group is cracking on that as I type!

Why waste $ on more cheap stuff, it's like challenging a dragon with a pocket knife.
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Old 03-27-2015, 05:58 PM
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with that screen, is it AT and how much space behind it . . .
there was that "slim" ported build here just a little while ago,
maybe being AT is a moot point wrt to a sub
that slim sub was only 16 "(?) deep


get your Dad to help, have some quality time together


ROCK ON!

DIY FAN Denon X5200 , Emotiva UPA7, for 7.3.4 ATMOS/DSSHARP 80" U
FL/FR: DIYSG Fusion 15's , Center: DIYSG "88 Special" , SL/SR: RC3II , SRL/SRR: F-3Towers, TF & TR: SLX
2 30" BF THTLP'S , SUBMAXIMUS, 2 x Inuke6000DSP & 2 driverless LHORN cabs
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/401-di...rs-subwoofers/
www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1485120-submaximus-large-front-loaded-horn
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Old 03-27-2015, 06:01 PM
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and now you have LTD02 watching you,
ITS SHOW TIME!
last time I tangled with him I ended up with that SUBMAXIMUS thing in my signature
Thanks John . . .

DIY FAN Denon X5200 , Emotiva UPA7, for 7.3.4 ATMOS/DSSHARP 80" U
FL/FR: DIYSG Fusion 15's , Center: DIYSG "88 Special" , SL/SR: RC3II , SRL/SRR: F-3Towers, TF & TR: SLX
2 30" BF THTLP'S , SUBMAXIMUS, 2 x Inuke6000DSP & 2 driverless LHORN cabs
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/401-di...rs-subwoofers/
www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1485120-submaximus-large-front-loaded-horn
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Old 03-27-2015, 06:06 PM
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If you do the si ht18 and the inuke3000dsp get the d4 models (dual 4ohm voice coils). That way you can parallel one to each side of the inuke and have 1100w RMS watts on tap as it will handle a 2ohm load. If you went with the d2 you could only do a 4 ohm load per channel and will see about 600w RMS.

Alternatively, if you got the I nuke 6000 DSP, you can only get 4ohm per channel so then the d2 models make sense. You herrrd me??
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Old 03-27-2015, 06:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asarose247 View Post
with that screen, is it AT and how much space behind it . . .
there was that "slim" ported build here just a little while ago,
maybe being AT is a moot point wrt to a sub
that slim sub was only 16 "(?) deep


get your Dad to help, have some quality time together


ROCK ON!
Screen is simply painted on the wall with a frame around the paint. There was a write up on the forum that painting a wall with the sherwin williams paint had the same color quality as one of the more expensive 3000$ screens, so I decided to save the 2980 bucks.

Here's a photo I took a few months ago. Since then I've added new lighting, cut a hole in the wall to a neighboring closet and turned it into my AV rack room, framed in the screen, built a high rise for the second row seats and hung 3 acoustic panels–I'm building more, just need to find a day off from work. This month I had only 1 day off and I had to fly out to NY on that day... (btw, currently on the tail end of a 21 hour shift). Next I have to cut the door that enters into the room and turn it around. Currently it opens up into the room hitting my R tower (cheap dayton t652, but sounds fine). To turn it around, it has to be cut to fit below the heating duct just on the other side of door.
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Last edited by Ryanweather; 03-27-2015 at 06:15 PM.
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Old 03-27-2015, 06:18 PM
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there are a variety of reasons that folks would rather buy things than make them.


building sub enclosures is pretty simple construction. you'll do just fine. lots of folks will help with the little things that will crop up along the way (such as performing a fan swap in the amp, setting the protective high pass filter in the dsp, and wiring a speakon connector).


plan on building two though...once you fire up the first one, you'll be running back to the store for more wood!
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