What sound system do you have in your car? - Page 3 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #61 of 91 Old 06-26-2015, 08:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Fitzmaurice View Post
They've gotten a lot better. My '15 has nine speakers, including two subs and A pillar mounted tweeters.
While the new BMW's look great, and apparently now have good sound systems as well, I don't think I'll be buying another one. Something about lacking an oil dip stick just doesn't sit right with me.

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post #62 of 91 Old 06-26-2015, 11:09 AM
 
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Originally Posted by Five28 View Post
While the new BMW's look great, and apparently now have good sound systems as well, I don't think I'll be buying another one. Something about lacking an oil dip stick just doesn't sit right with me.
Being able to see the exact oil level by touching a button doesn't bother me a bit, nor does not having to concern myself about changing my oil or filters for the next four years, since that's covered by my maintenance, along with just about everything else. Putting air in my tires is about all I have to do now, and only because my dealer isn't close by. If he was he'd do that, and wash the car too.
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post #63 of 91 Old 06-26-2015, 11:51 AM
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^^ Just don't keep it after that warranty expires! :P
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post #64 of 91 Old 06-26-2015, 02:36 PM
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Ill repost it in here

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post #65 of 91 Old 06-26-2015, 05:16 PM
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Stock.

I'd rather spend the money on a horsepower enhancement chip or my theater.
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post #66 of 91 Old 06-26-2015, 08:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtsdig View Post
I drive a 94 Mercedes E-class which uses a pair of (just under) 5" "full rangers" in the dash, a second pair of nearly 5"s in the rear deck with 2 paper coned tweeters that point in two different directions on both sides, and a pair of 6" mid-bass drivers in the bottom of the front doors which carry the entire load of low frequencies and are crossed over somewhere around 400hz. Those mid-bass drivers are driven with a separate factory amp; the other 4 are powered off the deck. The deck is a Blaupunkt which replaced the misbehaving original and is made as a drop in replacement in older Mercedes vehicles (no wiring harness or splices needed whatsoever). I like the deck in this car and have replaced the front dash speakers and the rear deck speakers with Blaupunkt coax's mostly because the original speakers were starting to make bad noises.
Overall, the system sounds pretty good but I tend to run out of steam with the deck's amplifiers when I'm jamming on it. I will be installing an Ultimax 10" in a small sealed box and driving it with a Rockford Fosgate R500X1D amp. This will allow me to high-pass all the rest of the speakers in the car and take the high current demands off the deck.
Nothing crazy....just decent.

My wife's VW EOS is also getting a 10" Ultimax. Here's a preview of that little project:
Which model E? I have a 93 500E with the original no-upgrade-path Becker 1432.
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post #67 of 91 Old 06-26-2015, 08:31 PM
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Fellow BMW driver here. Base audio systems in BMW are awful. Although I love BMW, its not even funny how crappy their base audio systems are when your consider their car prices. If you care about how your music sounds than you have to upgrade to their Harman Kardon System. In most models its 700 to 1000$ upgrade. Mine has the upgraded Harman Kardon surround sound system

Details
Harman Kardon Logic 7 DSP amplifier in Class-D technology with a total output of 600 watt
Logic 7 Surround Sound

16 Speakers
7 x 26mm metal-matrix dome tweeters in the dashboard, front and side
2 x 217mm woofers (central bass) below the front seats
7 x 100mm ALumaprene midrange speakers in the dashboard, front, side and rear
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post #68 of 91 Old 06-26-2015, 09:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvLee View Post
Which model E? I have a 93 500E with the original no-upgrade-path Becker 1432.
It's an E320. I would love an E420 or 500E at some point! The Blaupunkt decks would also work for you as far as fit is concerned but I see on the 500E forum that the 91-93 models had a Porsche wiring harness setup vs the typical W124 harness. You could still change it out to whatever you wanted, it would just take more work.
Mine is the Toronto 420BT model with Bluetooth and an external mic. It's not a very expensive deck but it's feature rich, works well and doesn't look ridiculous or gaudy.
Are you on Benzworld at all or the 500E board?

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post #69 of 91 Old 06-27-2015, 05:35 AM
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I own a 05 dodge magnum rt.


Equipment:
Deh-80prs headunit
Rockford T600.4 amp (mids and highs)
2 saz-3500v2 strapped at .9ohms
2 sundown audio zv4 12s D1
Mechman 320amp alternator
3 runs of 1/0g front to back
Smd voltmeter
3 xs power d3100 batteries
Sundown 6.5 neo v2 speakers
Jbl selenium st200 super tweeters
Lots of sound deadening

Old setup on the left. 2 fi audio q 12s, 2 saz-1500d amps vs the zv4 12s and saz-3500v2 amps


My voltmeter...


Another vs pic


Needed custom door brackets










My dual power and ground wires




Sorry no final pic of the batteries all setup but have my new amps in way (2 scv-4000d) maybe I'll take a snap.


80prs


Super tweeters


In upgrading again. Going with nsv3 12s and my 4k amps should be here at end of next week. When xs reveals the lithium battery prices and is in my range im upgrading to 2 scv-6000d amps on the nsv3s

Box is tuned to high @35hz . I hit a 149.4db @40hz on already warm/hot coils from testing too low and full tilt before we got to 40hz and was a fresh install. A thunderstorm stopped us short anyways and never tried to retest it.
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post #70 of 91 Old 06-27-2015, 07:05 AM
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I previously had a '12 VW TDi SportWagen with the Fender system. It was by far the best balanced and incredible sounding system I have ever heard, stock. Could have used a little more bass, but that's it. No matter how I tune my active set up, I still can't replicate the smooth sound of that VW.
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post #71 of 91 Old 06-27-2015, 09:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Fitzmaurice View Post
Being able to see the exact oil level by touching a button doesn't bother me a bit, nor does not having to concern myself about changing my oil or filters for the next four years, since that's covered by my maintenance, along with just about everything else. Putting air in my tires is about all I have to do now, and only because my dealer isn't close by. If he was he'd do that, and wash the car too.
When I bought my car I planned on keeping it long after the warranty was gone. I had the dealer change the oil at 1000 miles, something that used to be done routinely many years ago and referred to as a "break-in oil change". I also paid for my own oil changes every 5k miles and had the dealer do it thru their maintenance program at their normal interval, which I believe was 15k miles . Once the warranty was over I started doing all the oil changes myself. I would never trust an oil level sensor enough and enjoy maintaining my car as much as I can, including doing oil changes, brake service, coolant flushes, etc. I use a pneumatic oil extractor so it's easy and there's no need to get under the car to drain the oil. The drain tube goes in the dip stick tube. I also don't allow the dealer to wash my car, ever. I let them do it once and it was covered in swirl marks.
I replaced the valve cover gasket last year and the top end looked brand new, with no sludge or gunk. I'd be curious to see yours after a few years using the BMW recommended oil change interval.
Apologies for getting a bit off topic here.
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post #72 of 91 Old 06-27-2015, 10:21 AM
 
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I'd be curious to see yours after a few years using the BMW recommended oil change interval.
I assume that you're too young to remember when Mobil 1 was introduced. As I recall it was around 1970. At that time the typical recommended oil change interval was around 8,000 miles. One of the touted benefits of Mobil 1 was that it allowed for up to 25,000 mile oil change intervals, and testing done at that time confirmed that an engine run on Mobil 1 to 25,000 miles was no worse for wear than one changed at 8,000 miles with regular petroleum based oil.
I switched to Mobil 1 soon after it was introduced, even though back then it cost eight times as much as standard oil, mainly because of how much better it worked in sub-zero conditions. True to the advertised claim, after making the switch I never again had a starting issue all the way down to 20 below, whereas others had to use block heaters or their cars wouldn't start below zero.
I also did all my engine work back then, and found from personal experience that 25k intervals didn't cause any problems, though after I started driving much less I would always change my oil every spring, no matter how many miles it had been, to purge the system of the contaminants that would build up in the winter.
I have no qualms about the BMW change intervals, as they're much shorter than those which never caused me an issue since going to synthetic oil, and synthetic is all that BMW uses. BTW, the BMW intervals aren't mileage based, they're based on the driving patterns of the user, as recorded by the on-board computer.
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post #73 of 91 Old 06-27-2015, 10:41 AM
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Stock in all vehicles except for car which I had to upgrade the speakers because they had Bose speakers with built in amps, the head unit nor the speakers worked so replaced with new Kickers. No amps or subs in there, not 18 anymore, correct that a juvenile. Looking back, so embarrassed I spent money on looking like a fool with bass you could hear blocks away.

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post #74 of 91 Old 06-27-2015, 10:57 AM
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post #75 of 91 Old 06-27-2015, 11:07 AM
 
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IMO, no matter what you put in your car, the oil gets dirty due to combustion.
True, although oil filters tend to address than issue. Where winter driving is concerned condensation is the problem, as it contaminates the oil. If the oil is sufficiently heated it boils off, but short trips don't allow the engine to heat enough, so changing the oil in the spring is recommended.
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post #76 of 91 Old 06-27-2015, 11:33 AM
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Unless you've been getting oil analyses done on your oil, it's all just speculation. Even a good synthetic is not likely to last 25k in any engine. I'll believe that when I see the analysis. Audi Dealers use an oil (synthetic Castrol something or other) that is sketchy for the 10k mile change interval they recommend. The analyses that people have done prove that. There are other oils that work just fine on a 10k mile change interval in the same engines. Since a lot of cars have included maintenance (meaning the car maker is paying for it) and the car maker doesn't want your car to last forever, I wouldn't take their recommendation as the ultimate truth. It's probably more like the bare minimum. You'll notice that in general the recommended change intervals only went up after oil changes started being included in the covered maintenance. There's some speculation that oil changes were put into covered maintenance because otherwise people who were leasing cars weren't getting oil changes.

Here's my last oil analysis:



The Pennzoil Synthetic I'm running could be run for more than 10k miles in this engine. It hasn't broken down and still has enough TBN. However, I seem to have an iron wear problem developing in my engine.
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post #77 of 91 Old 06-27-2015, 12:02 PM
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Almost forgot, in my 92 VW Corradizo (sold a couple years back to another true VW enthusiast with the time and money to take care of her) I had an Alpine head unit, Lazar woofers and vifa tweeters. At that time I read everything from decware.com and built the "deathbox II" with his dhm-108b 10" subwoofer. I had a 300w amp on it with a 1 farad capacitor and it was awesome.

Seeing all this new stuff from sundown with massive power and subs makes me want to get back into it!
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post #78 of 91 Old 06-27-2015, 01:04 PM
 
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However, I seem to have an iron wear problem developing in my engine.
You want to watch that, lest it become anemic.
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post #79 of 91 Old 06-27-2015, 09:14 PM
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I have a soft top '86 Full Size Bronco and I've been working on installing a system in it for some time now. I've been on the road a lot lately due to work(LED Video Tech) so I haven't been able to do too much in the last half year or so. I spent several years installing professionally and my gear is a hodgepodge of stuff collected over the years.

My head unit is currently a Pioneer DEH-P800PRS being fed by my iPhone 5S via a modded iPure dock. The processor is a PPI DEQ.8, it a basically an OEM MiniDSP 4x8 with a 31 band EQ on each input and a 6 band parametric on each output, with all the normal stuff in between. MiniDSP is making a run of controllers for it that includes a master volume control, once I get one I will connect the iPure directly the processor(digital) and eliminate the HU.

Up front I have a pair of Image Dynamics mylar CD2 Comp compression drivers on full size bodies being driven by a Zapco AG200. For mids I currently have some cheap Pioneer 6.5's in the doors being driven by a bridged JL 300/4v1. They are temporary drivers while I build the lower doors for a pair of Image Dynamics IDQ8's. For subs I have a pair of Image Dynamics IDMax 12v3's being powered by a Zapco ST-1500X.

I also have a set of banana plugs in the back for some auxiliary speakers(whatever someone brings) while camping, they are powered by an old MTX RT-2400.

All the gear is being hidden behind custom panels in the rear. The whole interior has been stripped and a layer of Rattle Trapp was played down, then a layer of foam, and a layer of MLV. I used 1/4" square stock to brace the doors, I was even able to tie the inner and outer skins together.

I really want to gut the tailgate(I no longer use the rear window) and move all the amps and processor into it, leaving space the build ported boxes for the subs into the side of the bed.

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post #80 of 91 Old 06-28-2015, 02:44 AM
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Hummer H3 Alpha

Alpine head unit
Focal door speakers
Subs: TC Sounds LMS-R 12 (x2) in 1.5 cubic feet each
Rockford Fosgate TD4000.1BD

MINI-DSP for EQ, delay, and crossover. Don't dismiss the power of big EQ to get rid of mud. I hated these subs before EQ. All I had was one note bass. The truck made a massive 14db mode at 44 hz.

I run the subs at 2 ohms and the amp delivers 3000 watts at that impedance.
High amp alternator with Optima Yellow top battery.
8 farad capacitor.

I have no headlight blinking and the bass is insane but very high quality.
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post #81 of 91 Old 06-28-2015, 07:02 AM
 
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I have a stock stereo system in my Mazda.
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post #82 of 91 Old 06-28-2015, 06:33 PM
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IMO a vehicle is such a poor environment for sound that I don't even bother. I did replace the head unit so I could use my iPod.....
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post #83 of 91 Old 06-29-2015, 08:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Fitzmaurice View Post
I assume that you're too young to remember when Mobil 1 was introduced. As I recall it was around 1970. At that time the typical recommended oil change interval was around 8,000 miles. One of the touted benefits of Mobil 1 was that it allowed for up to 25,000 mile oil change intervals, and testing done at that time confirmed that an engine run on Mobil 1 to 25,000 miles was no worse for wear than one changed at 8,000 miles with regular petroleum based oil.
I switched to Mobil 1 soon after it was introduced, even though back then it cost eight times as much as standard oil, mainly because of how much better it worked in sub-zero conditions. True to the advertised claim, after making the switch I never again had a starting issue all the way down to 20 below, whereas others had to use block heaters or their cars wouldn't start below zero.
I also did all my engine work back then, and found from personal experience that 25k intervals didn't cause any problems, though after I started driving much less I would always change my oil every spring, no matter how many miles it had been, to purge the system of the contaminants that would build up in the winter.
I have no qualms about the BMW change intervals, as they're much shorter than those which never caused me an issue since going to synthetic oil, and synthetic is all that BMW uses. BTW, the BMW intervals aren't mileage based, they're based on the driving patterns of the user, as recorded by the on-board computer.
Yeah, I wouldn't recommend that... not saying that they can't make an oil to withstand the abuse but there are outside factors as well. The two main ones that come to mind are gas in the oil and contaminates.

Also, its hard to believe that on this forum where 8x18's is the normal that the majority have stock in their vehicles?? Wow. I'm used to trying to fill big spaces with sound so in a vehicle its so much easier to get decent bass and sound for a reasonable cost.

Image dynamics 6.5CTXCS in the front doors
Older Alpine MRV320 pushing the fronts
JL Audio 1000.1 Amp for subs
2 x Image Dynamics ID10 - Subs sound and perform well although there are cheaper options that would work in my limited mounting depth that would also.

Sounds just as good as anything else that I have... I have great speakers in my home, shop, and even outside my home so it would be hard to go from listening to quality sound and then going into my truck with the stock speakers which are terrible and are anything but flat. Though if you want anything resembling quality then you have to go to a component set with a well designed crossover but that is no different than anything home theater related either.

Last edited by Shan87; 06-29-2015 at 08:42 AM.
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post #84 of 91 Old 06-29-2015, 09:06 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shan87 View Post
Yeah, I wouldn't recommend that... not saying that they can't make an oil to withstand the abuse but there are outside factors as well. The two main ones that come to mind are gas in the oil and contaminates.

Also, its hard to believe that on this forum where 8x18's is the normal that the majority have stock in their vehicles?? Wow. I'm used to trying to fill big spaces with sound so in a vehicle its so much easier to get decent bass and sound for a reasonable cost.

Image dynamics 6.5CTXCS in the front doors
Older Alpine MRV320 pushing the fronts
JL Audio 1000.1 Amp for subs
2 x Image Dynamics ID10 - Subs sound and perform well although there are cheaper options that would work in my limited mounting depth that would also.

Sounds just as good as anything else that I have... I have great speakers in my home, shop, and even outside my home so it would be hard to go from listening to quality sound and then going into my truck with the stock speakers which are terrible and are anything but flat. Though if you want anything resembling quality then you have to go to a component set with a well designed crossover but that is no different than anything home theater related either.
I think because the majority of people who have 8x18's need them for movies, not for music.
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post #85 of 91 Old 06-29-2015, 09:55 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shan87 View Post
Also, its hard to believe that on this forum where 8x18's is the normal that the majority have stock in their vehicles??
I don't sit in my car so that I can have a concert hall experience. I don't watch movies in it either. When I want that I have my living room.
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post #86 of 91 Old 06-29-2015, 12:39 PM
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I've been in the car audio hobby a lot longer than home audio. My first install was a Roadmaster EQ/booster in my mom's Mazda in 1984.

We drive one car 95% of the time and the audio system was upgraded a few years ago. The Lexus ES-350 has an odd dash configuration and a kit was only available for a short time. I was the only person to document the entire process - http://www.clublexus.com/forums/es35...-a-2007-a.html If you don't want to read the entire thread, here's a summary of the equipment:
head unit - Pioneer AVH-P3300BT with a Pioneer XM radio tuner.
front door/dash - Phoenix Gold SD component system (6.5"). These lasted until my wife fried a door speaker and I replaced them with Crescendo Audio 6.5" pro audio mids.
rear door - factory
amp (highs) - factory - The factory amp is surprisingly good when I turn on the high pass filter at the head unit. It provided enough power to fry a door speaker.
amp (sub) - Powerbass ASA 1000.1
sub - 12" custom designed driver from Pink Star Industries. I think the original driver came from Diamond Audio.
enclosure - 1.2 cf sealed
factory sub - It is still working. Filtering out everything below 80hz from the factory amp essentially removes it but if I have to remove the big sub, I can just send the lows to the factory amp and I can enjoy a little bit of bass.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bassment View Post
I think because the majority of people who have 8x18's need them for movies, not for music.
But 8x18's in a vehicle is fun!!!
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post #87 of 91 Old 08-24-2015, 07:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Fitzmaurice View Post
I don't sit in my car so that I can have a concert hall experience. I don't watch movies in it either. When I want that I have my living room.
I guess its a bit different for me... I spend quite a bit of time running my business on the road so its nice to have a nice stereo to listen to rather than the stock crap especially for long trips.
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post #88 of 91 Old 10-11-2015, 10:57 PM
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I got my car finished. It sounds great. Full 5.1 surround sound with a JBL MS-8. Front left and right is a scanspeak revelatory 7" woofer in the doors (fully deadened and sealed) and a scanspeak illuminator tweeter in the a-pillar. The center channel is a scanspeak revelator 5.5" woofer, dual scanspeak discovery 4" midrange and a scanspeak illuminator tweeter. I decided to go with rear fill which is a pair of Tangband W4-1337 widebanders in the rear deck.

The stock sail panel is still there but not hooked up, I have a blank sail on the way to clean things up a bit. Here is what the front looks like:





A closer look at the custom center channel mid bass



And the custom upper center channel MTM array





Center console with MS-8 display and USB/Power relocated (used to be where the mid bass is)



Finally, the trunk with dual scanspeak discovery 12" subwoofers, Audison Voce amplifiers (4 channel and a 5 channel), the MS-8, and an Audiocontrol 6XS (for the center channel crossover duty)







Thought I would share since there seems to be a few into car audio here.
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post #89 of 91 Old 10-12-2015, 04:13 AM
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I have an older set of DLS R6a components that I picked up on eBay a while back. They are new in the box. I wonder how these would sound versus something like a Dayton RS28a tweeter with a Dayton 225 8" mid?
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post #90 of 91 Old 10-12-2015, 07:52 AM
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I have a Genesis with a package that adds more speakers and sub. It actually sounds really good. The mids and highs are some of the best I've heard in a car (I've done several car audio installs over the years). The 8" free air woofer in the back deck is surprising at filling in the lower end and blends really well with the mids.

I wasn't going to install a sub in the car after hearing how good it was stock.... but the love of bass combined with the fact that the install is incredibly easy - I couldn't resist.

The battery is in the trunk, the car already has a sub so I simply converted the sub line signal to something my amp was happy with and used amps I already owned that were just sitting in my garage.

I designed a 12" ported Ultimax tuned to 34hz. It sounds really good. You can't get a better sub in the same price range, I modeled a half a dozen other 12's with the power/space limitations and the Ultimax came on top, unless of course I wanted to spend considerably more money on amps and drivers.


I also put everything on quick connects so the entire setup can be taken out very easily. Next step is to carpet.
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