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post #1 of 37 Old 08-14-2015, 06:25 AM - Thread Starter
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(DIY) Duel Stereo Integrity HT 18 box build first timer

After going back & forward for months i decided i was going to try DIY subwoofer build after reading other member success here, i decided that DIY was the best route to pursue after having a budget of 1500.00 & other I.D. brands didn't offer what i wanted price wise. I'm new to this so be easy on me guys if i ask a question & i don't understand the reply i will work hard as i can to understand.....Below is the list of the items, if i forgot something please tell me I'm here to learn from you guys.


Stereo Intergrity- HT18 X 2 $348.00

http://stereointegrity.com/product/ht18-18-subwoofer/

DIY Sound Group- 4 cu ft Subwoofer box X 2 287.20(shipping 47.20)

http://www.diysoundgroup.com/sealed-...flat-pack.html


Neutrik NL4MPR Speakon Connector 4 pole x 2 5.18 (shipping 11.17 next day)

http://www.parts-express.com/neutrik...79v00s3dy0005c

Behringer NU6000DSP Inuke 350.00

http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-NU60...nger+nu6000dsp


Hex Drive Treaded & Bolts

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002WC8TUW/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Monoprice 6ft Premier XLR Male to RCA Male 16AWG cable x 2 10.44

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_i...seq=1&format=2


Monoprice 10ft NL4 female to NL4 Female 12AWG Speaker Twist Connector cable X 2 15.06

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_i...seq=1&format=2


Paint I'm going in a different direction I have a friend that own a shop so he spray painting them for me. 3 coats of primer then two coats of Gloss Black Rustoleum

http://www.lowes.com/pd_86512-90-V75...lack+rustoleum


Here are the links that inspired me that i can do this:

SI-HT18, then HST-18, build(s).


Clampless diysg 4cuft si18 flat pack build





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post #2 of 37 Old 08-14-2015, 07:09 AM
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Wood glue. Don't use black paint, such a cliché. MDF is paint hungry so it takes quite a bit of spray-painting without being pre-filled with epoxy or polyester resin. Unless you're prepared to do a work-day of sanding polyester before applying primer and paint then rolling on the paint is best. Just normal water based interior paint.
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post #3 of 37 Old 08-14-2015, 08:03 AM
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No DSP?

I noticed you are not going with the DSP. Are you planning to do any measuring and equalizing down the road? If so the extra $50 for the 6000DSP would be worth it. Otherwise you will have to add a minidsp if you later decide you want to boost the low end because of the seal configuration, which made need it.
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post #4 of 37 Old 08-14-2015, 08:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adamms View Post
I noticed you are not going with the DSP. Are you planning to do any measuring and equalizing down the road? If so the extra $50 for the 6000DSP would be worth it. Otherwise you will have to add a minidsp if you later decide you want to boost the low end because of the seal configuration, which made need it.
His text in the first post says NU6000DSP but what he linked to is the non-DSP model. Just a bit of oversight maybe? Either way, it's a valid question.
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post #5 of 37 Old 08-14-2015, 08:57 AM
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Are you getting the D2 or D4 HT18's?

You'll also need some speaker wire and spade connectors to connect the sub to the back of the speakon connector. You'll probably want some type of gasket or weather stripping to seal around the woofer. Also some foam (mattress topper) to help dampen internal reflections.

Are you going to be using screws to assemble or brad nails...? Also having a bunch of clamps around is useful.

Think that covers most of it, and as others have stated, I'd get the DSP version of the Inuke, but I think you already know that and just linked the wrong product page...

I've got MartySub and Custom subwoofer flatpacks for Sale. Check the link out for MartySub info (Yes we are still selling even though the thread is locked), PM me with questions about custom designed flatpacks. MartySub Flatpacks are back

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post #6 of 37 Old 08-14-2015, 09:10 AM
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(DIY) Duel Stereo Integrity HT 18 box build first timer

If you aren't in a rush, I'd get the UM18 package over HT18s. Better driver, more power handling, more output.

http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-...ndle--300-7099

Or even the 460HO should give a better result:
http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-...ndle--300-7094
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Last edited by rhodesj; 08-14-2015 at 09:17 AM.
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post #7 of 37 Old 08-14-2015, 09:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adamms View Post
I noticed you are not going with the DSP. Are you planning to do any measuring and equalizing down the road? If so the extra $50 for the 6000DSP would be worth it. Otherwise you will have to add a minidsp if you later decide you want to boost the low end because of the seal configuration, which made need it.
Yes I'm going with DSP....I have no clue how it works but i linked that wrong thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by squiers007 View Post
Are you getting the D2 or D4 HT18's?

You'll also need some speaker wire and spade connectors to connect the sub to the back of the speakon connector. You'll probably want some type of gasket or weather stripping to seal around the woofer. Also some foam (mattress topper) to help dampen internal reflections.

Are you going to be using screws to assemble or brad nails...? Also having a bunch of clamps around is useful.

Think that covers most of it, and as others have stated, I'd get the DSP version of the Inuke, but I think you already know that and just linked the wrong product page...
I'm getting the D4.......I didn't add wire because i already had it & the spade connection. Glue & Clamps only for this box.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rhodesj View Post
If you aren't in a rush, I'd get the UM18 package over HT18s. Better driver, more power handling, more output.

http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-...ndle--300-7099

Or even the 460HO should give a better result:
http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-...ndle--300-7094
I understand & knew that about the UM & i had the money in my budget but I'm not a fan of the cosmetic look. I know that a crazy thing to say but this is just to get me off the ground & maybe in a few months I'm upgrading to HST18.
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post #8 of 37 Old 08-14-2015, 09:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rhodesj View Post
If you aren't in a rush, I'd get the UM18 package over HT18s. Better driver, more power handling, more output.

http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-...ndle--300-7099

Or even the 460HO should give a better result:
http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-...ndle--300-7094

Also i can't find the link but Nick at S.I. said it wasn't true the 460HO had more output than HT18 & challenge the guy to show him. Dang where that link at, Nick said HT18 is on par with it at lease.
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post #9 of 37 Old 08-14-2015, 09:46 AM
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post #10 of 37 Old 08-14-2015, 12:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ronny31 View Post
Wood glue. Don't use black paint, such a cliché. MDF is paint hungry so it takes quite a bit of spray-painting without being pre-filled with epoxy or polyester resin. Unless you're prepared to do a work-day of sanding polyester before applying primer and paint then rolling on the paint is best. Just normal water based interior paint.

To be honest i just want to do something different from everyone......Plus I'm sure he don't mind sanding all day he working off a debt
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post #11 of 37 Old 08-14-2015, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Bobby101Digital View Post
Also i can't find the link but Nick at S.I. said it wasn't true the 460HO had more output than HT18 & challenge the guy to show him. Dang where that link at, Nick said HT18 is on par with it at lease.
Well get the UM18-22s.
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post #12 of 37 Old 08-14-2015, 12:31 PM
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(DIY) Duel Stereo Integrity HT 18 box build first timer

If you due 2-HT 18's or something else teamed up with an inuke 6000 dsp amp I did a test today on them to see my amp draw with the avr turned up to 0... What I seen on my surge protector with a bass heavy scene was 7 amps. I didn't take a meter out which would of been the best way to do that but I thought I should share this. I hope you have at least 2 different circuits depending on the amount of equipment your going to be running. If I maxed them out maybe 9-10 amps would of been drawn. I also have the limiter set at 1100 watts on the inuke amp.
Mike

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...oot-boxes.html
The STONE HAMMERS sub box build 4/20 cubic boxes tuned @ 16hz.
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...land-area.html
2015 GTG meet Plainfield IL. (Chicago land area)
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post #13 of 37 Old 08-14-2015, 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Bobby101Digital View Post
To be honest i just want to do something different from everyone
Not impossible, but that will be a tough task. I believe I read a post where Subs were built into a bed........You just got to love this place
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post #14 of 37 Old 08-14-2015, 02:13 PM
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Not impossible, but that will be a tough task. I believe I read a post where Subs were built into a bed........You just got to love this place
LOL, and someone else made a thread today about wanting to turn a toilet into a ported sub!
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post #15 of 37 Old 08-14-2015, 03:36 PM
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LOL, and someone else made a thread today about wanting to turn a toilet into a ported sub!
You just can't make this stuff up
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post #16 of 37 Old 08-14-2015, 03:46 PM
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You just can't make this stuff up
Something something brown note.
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post #17 of 37 Old 08-15-2015, 04:24 AM
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LOL, and someone else made a thread today about wanting to turn a toilet into a ported sub!

Just imagine the fart sound amplified by the bowl when the port velocity gets too high...

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post #18 of 37 Old 08-16-2015, 10:22 AM - Thread Starter
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LOL, and someone else made a thread today about wanting to turn a toilet into a ported sub!
Wow....So i guess he going to name this sub the Bowel movement build...
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Got these in yesterday......Won't start the boxes until next weekend.
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Got some work done last night........Sorry for the mess in the shop it's a friends that's letting me use it.
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post #21 of 37 Old 08-19-2015, 01:32 PM - Thread Starter
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More work pics.......Also anyone have a clue what size drill bit i need to drill the hole in the box for the Speakon connector ?
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post #22 of 37 Old 08-20-2015, 01:48 AM
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more work pics.......also anyone have a clue what size drill bit i need to drill the hole in the box for the speakon connector ?

15/16"

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post #23 of 37 Old 08-20-2015, 01:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Bobby101Digital View Post
More work pics.......Also anyone have a clue what size drill bit i need to drill the hole in the box for the Speakon connector ?
If you don't have 15/16" you might get away with a 1" spade bit like I used, since it was the best I had, and used a putty (like this http://www.homedepot.com/p/QuakeHOLD...8111/100143045 ) to fill the gap, no leakage (so far ).
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post #24 of 37 Old 08-20-2015, 06:53 AM
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All the speakon I've ever used would never fit in a 15/16". I always use 1" spade and I have to twist it around the edges for a few seconds after its through to make it large enough to fit the terminal through.
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post #25 of 37 Old 08-20-2015, 10:44 AM
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Quote:
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All the speakon I've ever used would never fit in a 15/16". I always use 1" spade and I have to twist it around the edges for a few seconds after its through to make it large enough to fit the terminal through.
I've used these for three subs with a 1" spade and all were very loose fitting, thus my adding putty; same speakon connector you used? Since 15/16" - 23.8mm and the diameter is 24.0 mm if anything the 15/16" if not a tight fit might need a bit of filing...
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By the time I add paint, it closes off the difference between 1" and 15/16". Also, I use gasket tape on the flange, no reason to worry about leaks then
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post #27 of 37 Old 08-20-2015, 10:55 AM
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I used the same connectors lovinthehd linked to, 15/16" spade bit created a hole just slightly larger than the barrel on the back of the connector. Used some silicon caulk around the edge to seal it.
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post #28 of 37 Old 08-20-2015, 11:01 AM
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The diameter of the connector in question is 23.6 mm or .929 in. and a 15/16" hole is 0.9375 in. http://www.avsforum.com/forum/attach...4&d=1440092874
(Neutrik recommends a .949 in. hole, however)


I have no idea of the sizes of the off-brand Chinese knockoffs.
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post #29 of 37 Old 08-20-2015, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post
The diameter of the connector in question is 23.6 mm or .929 in. and a 15/16" hole is 0.9375 in. http://www.avsforum.com/forum/attach...4&d=1440092874
(Neutrik recommends a .949 in. hole, however)


I have no idea of the sizes of the off-brand Chinese knockoffs.
Yep, when I was looking at a conversion chart memorized the wrong mm figure. 23.6 mm is the Neutrik Lichtenstein diameter on the connectors I'm using.....

ps Why we should have gone metric 30 years ago here in the US....
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post #30 of 37 Old 08-20-2015, 11:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bassment View Post
All the speakon I've ever used would never fit in a 15/16". I always use 1" spade and I have to twist it around the edges for a few seconds after its through to make it large enough to fit the terminal through.

Maybe it's like the currency exchange rate and Canadian 1" spade bits are equal to 7/8" American bits.




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