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SI 18 w/ inuke3000 vs UM18 w/ inuke 6000?

3K views 35 replies 16 participants last post by  derrickdj1 
#1 ·
I see a lot of posts recommending a pair of the Stereo Integrity 18's powered by one inuke 3000. But whenever Ultimax pairs are brought up, it seems to always be the 6000 that is recommended.

I want one 18" sealed 4cu ft sub, with a second to be added in the not-too-distant future. How much difference would I really get with one or a pair of Ultimaxes/inuke6000 compared to a pair of SI/inuke3000? Why can't a pair of Ultimaxes be powered just fine by one inuke 3000?
 
#2 ·
A pair of UM18's can be powered by the 3000, but you'd be leaving some output on the table. The HT18's are conservatively rated at 600w RMS, with most running them around 1000w which is why the 3000 is recommended. The UM18 can take ~1500w which is why people recommend the 6000.

Also, the UM18's are D2 subs so they can only be wired to 4ohm meaning the 3000 can only output 680w. The HT18 (if you get the D4) can be wired to 2 ohm and the 3000 being 2ohm stable will output ~1040w @ 2ohm.

The HT18/Inuke 3000 combo gets recommended the most because it's the most Bass for your Buck around right now.
 
#20 ·
Hey 007 where do you get your specs for the ink's output?
 
#5 ·
Yellow is 2 UM18's in 4.0cuft getting 1360w (680 x 2) - Inuke 3000
Blue is 2 HT18's in 4.0cuft getting 2200w (1100 x 2) - Inuke 3000
Green is 2 UM18's in 4.0cuft getting 3000w (1500 x 2) - Inuke 6000

Your response will be much different from this one you put them in the room, but this should give you a good starting point to go by.
 

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#7 ·
There is a couple hundred dollar difference if you can build your own boxes
 
#8 ·
Besides, the ultimax 18 with cabinet is $355. The driver itself is $280.
 
#13 ·
Shoot, for the ~1-2dB difference between the SI's and the 3000 vs. the UM's and the 6000, I would save the cash and go with the SI's, especially if you are building the cabs yourself. This debate has been coming up left and right lately between the UM's and the SI's. In the end it's a couple of dB but a fairly significant price difference.
 
#14 ·
The other factor is electrical draw of the 3000 compared to the 6000. Since the 6000 is two 3000 amps bridged, that is twice the power draw. Many people will have an AVR, TV and the sub amp on the same breaker :eek: for those of us that do that, I am ASSuming the 3000 would be much happier to allow the other components to drink at the AC fountain.

Since I'll be getting subs "for Christmas", I have two more months to figure out which sub drivers to use but have pretty much settled on the 3000dsp as the amp.
 
#17 · (Edited)
SI18 option

2x flatpacks = $240 + $100 ship = $340
2x HT18 = $320
iNuke 3000 = $280

total = 940

UM18

2x PE kits = $710

with iNuke 3000, total = 990
So the actual difference is $50, for that you get a better driver and slightly more output. The flatpacks are the exact same in both cases.

with iNuke 6000, add $100 more but you have more output.

(since I'm in CA shipping costs a lot more to here)
 
#18 ·
Don't forget the PE coupons ($15 off $200) - with two separate orders the difference goes down to only $20.
 
#27 ·
I don't know if the higher power draw of iNuke6000 is a concern, esp since many people recommend limiting the power draw to the driver so it doesn't reach its compression limits.

according to this post there's a significant improvement with the UM18 - http://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-d...ticeable-differences-if-any.html#post37149826

Also don't forget to budget in a fan mod for the iNukes, and also some sort of auto on/off if you care. Since the SI18 is a dead product I would not recommend it to anyone, whereas PE ain't going anywhere.

For the room size you have, 1 sub is enough, you may not even need a 2nd sub unless you are totally committed to it. In that case you can also run a single UM18 in bridged mode with a iNuke3000 and it will get enough power.
 
#29 ·
Also don't forget to budget in a fan mod for the iNukes, and also some sort of auto on/off if you care. Since the SI18 is a dead product I would not recommend it to anyone, whereas PE ain't going anywhere.
I figured I'd skip the fan mod and keep the amp outside the theater, where the AVR and HTPC are, and use an IR-controlled powerstrip to shut it on and off. Just add the power-on command to the sub's power strip to the start of my "theater on" function in irule.

For the room size you have, 1 sub is enough, you may not even need a 2nd sub unless you are totally committed to it. In that case you can also run a single UM18 in bridged mode with a iNuke3000 and it will get enough power.
Yeah, I figured two 18s is overkill for a room this size, but eventually we'll move and maybe the future theater will be bigger.
 
#28 ·
Just buy it with a credit card and you have protection through that. Nick is still in business, just not direct to consumer sales.
 
#30 ·
You mentioned discounts on the 3000 everbody sells it for 280. however if you call places like Same Day Music ( where I got mine ) and tell them you are interested but why should I buy from you and ask for a deal. I did get a deal mine was 260. No matter how you look at it 20.00 savings is better than none at all.
 
#31 ·
I have or had own the UM 18's powered by I Nukes 6000 DSP and 3000 DSP. I have used these with limiters and have used them with more than the suggested power limits in a 4300 cu ft space and have never damaged the drivers pushing reference level. I have used them in sealed boxes, 9 cu ft vented boxes and 11 cu ft. vented boxes. I also own the SI HT 18's.

In 4 ft cu boxes the UM and SI are very similar. Vented boxes are another story and the UM 18 is my first choice. Is there a noticeable difference using a 3000 vs a 6000 with one of the drivers. No, Buy the driver that you like best if a small cost difference is not a major concern. If the driver is exposed and small kids are around, the UM 18 is very hard to damage.
 
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