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post #1 of 16 Old 11-06-2015, 02:39 PM - Thread Starter
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EP2500 lower output than EP1500?

So I got a used EP2500 off ebay today.
Set it up in place of my EP1500 which has been bridged to my 15" LMS-4000 for the last 7 years. Figured the EP2500 would sound louder and have more head room. When hooked up it sounded quiter and clipped far easier than the 1500, had to back it down to 15 to keep the light out.

I have all the Dip switches exactly the same as one another, same feed from a MIC2200 and same movie passage to test them out. The begining of Edge of Tomorrow.

EP1500 SLP meter 1 foot way 119 db Same setup with the EP2500 116 db both bridged.

Any suggestions on what I would start to look at or is it possible for a amp to put out less power due to age/use? Not sure if I should call this a defective amp or am I looking at this the wrong way?
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post #2 of 16 Old 11-06-2015, 04:44 PM
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The dip switches are messed up on the 2500. Post how you have them setup.

Blasting brown notes for 10 years and counting!

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post #3 of 16 Old 11-06-2015, 04:52 PM
 
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I have one ep4000 that drives subs to about half the excursion of my other ones. Sounds fine and works fine for mains, or I just don't miss the extra power. If I didn't have multiples to compare, I never would have known.
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post #4 of 16 Old 11-06-2015, 05:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N8DOGG View Post
The dip switches are messed up on the 2500. Post how you have them setup.
Here is how they are set, seems to be what I found which is the exact way my EP1500 is set.

1- R
2- L
3- R
4- L
5- L
6- R
7- R
8- R
9- L
10- L
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post #5 of 16 Old 11-06-2015, 05:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by More is Better View Post
I have one ep4000 that drives subs to about half the excursion of my other ones. Sounds fine and works fine for mains, or I just don't miss the extra power. If I didn't have multiples to compare, I never would have known.
Well that doesn't sound great. lol
Reason I bought this was to up the power from my current amp not lower. Good thing it was cheap.
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post #6 of 16 Old 11-06-2015, 07:48 PM
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Gain knob setting on both channels? I think you have to have channel 2 all the way down in bridge mode. You probably do but figured I'd ask anyway.
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post #7 of 16 Old 11-06-2015, 09:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shan87 View Post
Gain knob setting on both channels? I think you have to have channel 2 all the way down in bridge mode. You probably do but figured I'd ask anyway.
Yeah sorry gain knob down to 0 on channel 2 and 15 on channel 1, it clips at about 16 ish.
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post #8 of 16 Old 11-07-2015, 12:17 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ClintonH View Post
Here is how they are set, seems to be what I found which is the exact way my EP1500 is set.

1- R
2- L
3- R
4- L
5- L
6- R
7- R
8- R
9- L
10- L

Off the top of my head 1 2 3 should be the same as 10 9 8.


I'm gonna go look at mine.


Try this:
Turn the amp off.


Unplug the input 2 xlr or 1/4".


Push all the dip switches to the left. I know that is wrong.


Push all the dip switches to the right, one at a time, and make sure they all click.


Power it up and try it.
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post #9 of 16 Old 11-07-2015, 08:13 AM
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Is there any way to test it in stereo? I've had both the 1500 and 8 x 2500/4000. It had way more power than the 1500.

Blasting brown notes for 10 years and counting!

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post #10 of 16 Old 11-07-2015, 08:40 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by More is Better View Post
Off the top of my head 1 2 3 should be the same as 10 9 8.


I'm gonna go look at mine.


Try this:
Turn the amp off.


Unplug the input 2 xlr or 1/4".


Push all the dip switches to the left. I know that is wrong.


Push all the dip switches to the right, one at a time, and make sure they all click.


Power it up and try it.
I can try this out Tomorrow, gone to my Mom's 80th Birthday today. It's a all day event. lol

Quote:
Originally Posted by N8DOGG View Post
Is there any way to test it in stereo? I've had both the 1500 and 8 x 2500/4000. It had way more power than the 1500.
As in do I have more than one sub, no not at the moment I only have one built. I can test it with 2 by the end of this week, I have 2 more subs waiting for boxes to be built.
Is there something that stero mode will tell that bridged doesn't? And are the dip switches in the correct order for bridged then?
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post #11 of 16 Old 11-07-2015, 11:09 AM
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Try this and see if it works better.
1- L
2- L
3- L
4- R
5- R
6- R
7- R
8- L
9- L
10- L

If you have a multimeter you can measure the voltage when it isn't connected to a subwoofer and playing a 60hz sinewave.
You can put the amp back into stereo mode and test each channel, my guess is that one of the channels isn't working as good as the other.

Behringer is known for horrid QC and Ebay is shady at the best of times.
Ideally you should have bought new so that you'd have a warranty.

I have a rule of thumb with purchases:
If it is above $2000 always buy new (because it is too expensive to go wrong.)
If it is below $500 always buy new (because it is too cheap to be true or there is something wrong with it!)

Even so, I've still been burnt.

I've bought 12 AV products off ebay ranging from $100 to $5000 over the years, and I've been burned 5 of those times, all 5 needed repairs of some sort to make them work as intended and that was not disclosed. It's like playing Russian Roulette.

For example: I bought a $2200 Fluke meter for $1100 off Ebay, used it 20 times over a few months and it failed. The product was over 11 years old and the seller said lied about the age and condition. It now needs to be repaired, which will cost $1200, the total cost of a new with 5 year warranty.

It is crap like that that makes me never want to use Ebay ever again, but some things can only be found on Ebay as they are discontinued and/or the new comparable models are FAR TOO expensive. Emotiva UMC-200, Rotel 9 or 10 series, most B&W speakers, and Crown MacroTech, the list goes on...

Also, the defective models get re-listed, round and round we go, musical chairs...
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post #12 of 16 Old 11-07-2015, 11:17 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BassThatHz View Post
Try this and see if it works better.
1- L
2- L
3- L
4- R
5- R
6- R
7- R
8- L
9- L
10- L

If you have a multimeter you can measure the voltage when it isn't connected to a subwoofer and playing a 60hz sinewave.
You can put the amp back into stereo mode and test each channel, my guess is that one of the channels isn't working as good as the other.

Behringer is known for horrid QC and Ebay is shady at the best of times.
Ideally you should have bought new so that you'd have a warranty.

I have a rule of thumb with purchases:
If it is above $2000 always buy new (because it is too expensive to go wrong.)
If it is below $500 always buy new (because it is too cheap to be true or there is something wrong with it!)

Even so, I've still been burnt.

I've bought 12 AV products off ebay ranging from $100 to $5000 over the years, and I've been burned 5 of those times, all 5 needed repairs of some sort to make them work as intended and that was not disclosed. It's like playing Russian Roulette.

For example: I bought a $2200 Fluke meter for $1100 off Ebay, used it 20 times over a few months and it failed. The product was over 11 years old and the seller said lied about the age and condition. It now needs to be repaired, which will cost $1200, the total cost of a new with 5 year warranty.

It is crap like that that makes me never want to use Ebay ever again, but some things can only be found on Ebay as they are discontinued and/or the new comparable models are FAR TOO expensive. Emotiva UMC-200, Rotel 9 or 10 series, most B&W speakers, and Crown MacroTech, the list goes on...

Also, the defective models get re-listed, round and round we go, musical chairs...
Thanks will try these tomorrow afternoon, I was going to hook up the multimeter yesterday but I left it out at the shop so I will pick it up today. I only have my digital here, analog stays at the shop for code sweeping on cars prior to OBD2.

For the $100 I spent it's not a huge issue really I mean it still puts out almost the same as the EP1500 so it's still useable just not what I wanted. lol If it is indeed not correct I will just go buy a new NU3000 and sell both the EP amps.
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post #13 of 16 Old 11-07-2015, 12:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ClintonH View Post
I can try this out Tomorrow, gone to my Mom's 80th Birthday today. It's a all day event. lol



As in do I have more than one sub, no nonat the moment I only have one built. I can test it with 2 by the end of this week, I have 2 more subs waiting for boxes to be built.
Is there something that stero mode will tell that bridged doesn't? And are the dip switches in the correct order for bridged then?
Ya just put it in stereo and try each channel on you sub, if there is a difference in spl, likely a bad channel.

Blasting brown notes for 10 years and counting!

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post #14 of 16 Old 11-09-2015, 01:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BassThatHz View Post
Try this and see if it works better.
1- L
2- L
3- L
4- R
5- R
6- R
7- R
8- L
9- L
10- L

If you have a multimeter you can measure the voltage when it isn't connected to a subwoofer and playing a 60hz sinewave.
You can put the amp back into stereo mode and test each channel, my guess is that one of the channels isn't working as good as the other.

Behringer is known for horrid QC and Ebay is shady at the best of times.
Ideally you should have bought new so that you'd have a warranty.

I have a rule of thumb with purchases:
If it is above $2000 always buy new (because it is too expensive to go wrong.)
If it is below $500 always buy new (because it is too cheap to be true or there is something wrong with it!)

Even so, I've still been burnt.

I've bought 12 AV products off ebay ranging from $100 to $5000 over the years, and I've been burned 5 of those times, all 5 needed repairs of some sort to make them work as intended and that was not disclosed. It's like playing Russian Roulette.

For example: I bought a $2200 Fluke meter for $1100 off Ebay, used it 20 times over a few months and it failed. The product was over 11 years old and the seller said lied about the age and condition. It now needs to be repaired, which will cost $1200, the total cost of a new with 5 year warranty.

It is crap like that that makes me never want to use Ebay ever again, but some things can only be found on Ebay as they are discontinued and/or the new comparable models are FAR TOO expensive. Emotiva UMC-200, Rotel 9 or 10 series, most B&W speakers, and Crown MacroTech, the list goes on...

Also, the defective models get re-listed, round and round we go, musical chairs...
Ok I tried these setting and yes it puts out far more at the 60 Hz tone. With a movie in it works fine as well and puts out very oud but I lost all the bottom end, I think below 30hz has gone. The test scene I was using barley puts any audio out at the lower end where the EP1500 was driving the sub hard. I am guessing this setting uses the high pass filter then? And what does that tell us on this amp?
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post #15 of 16 Old 11-09-2015, 04:53 PM
 
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Did you try my suggestion?
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post #16 of 16 Old 11-09-2015, 11:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by More is Better View Post
Did you try my suggestion?
Ah yes sorry meant to put that in, it was exactly the same as the test I did with the switches in the order I originally had. It works just clips as low freq with anything past 15 or so on the gain.
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