The V.B.S.S. DIY subwoofer design thread - Page 19 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #541 of 552 Old 08-01-2017, 10:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nexgen76 View Post
Can someone help me to make sure i got my wiring right..... Box one with the single Neutrik four pole connector I'm using +1 & -1...... The second box with duel Neutrik four pole connector bottom coming from Box 1 I have +1 & -1 & Also the top Neutrik four pole connector i have that one +1 & -1 is this correct as it appear on the picture @mtg90

yes, as others have said, that is for cabs in parallel, which will give you a nominal 4 ohms per channel on the inuke.


that will work with both the inuke6000dsp as well as the inuke 3000dsp. also, as others have advised, be sure to have your limiter in place.


you may want to unscrew the strain relief on the cables and just double check that the connectors are wired properly. they too should be red on 1+ black on 1-.


i can't really think of any problem that miswiring this would have other than bare wires touching each other that could cause an amp to blow. off the top of my head, miswiring would either result in no sound from one or more cabs and/or drivers that are out of phase with respect to each other.




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post #542 of 552 Old 08-02-2017, 06:08 AM
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Originally Posted by corradizo View Post
I am no speaker designer but I think you might want to Google how to figure out when a speaker begins to beam. When beaming begins is based on the size of the driver. Also the center to center distance of the tweeter and the woofer play a role in crossover point selection too.


it will start beaming around 806hz, and shouldn't be a problem till about an octave later, so good to about 1600 hz, which would seem to match the directivity chart posted on the PE website.


Im more interested in knowing how well it performs on axis above the sub range.


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post #543 of 552 Old 08-06-2017, 06:23 AM
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Thanks everyone for the help only got one thing left to do & that's mount the drivers. Just one question & I'm done. When loading the filters I see it set my amp for Bi amp 1 is this correct or needs to be changed ?

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post #544 of 552 Old 08-06-2017, 09:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Bi-amp one is used as it allows a single input cable to drive both channels but also allows independent delays to be set per channel. If you would rather use two separate inputs switch it to dual mono mode.
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post #545 of 552 Old 08-09-2017, 06:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brazle View Post
Location?

Both of the ported 18 boxes from DIY sound group should work well for the PA460, if you're unable to build yourself.

http://www.diysoundgroup.com/ported-subwoofers-1.html
Since the cu.ft. of the flat packs are a little smaller, can you use the posted dsp settings? Will it change the tuning?
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post #546 of 552 Old 08-12-2017, 11:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wpbpete View Post
Since the cu.ft. of the flat packs are a little smaller, can you use the posted dsp settings? Will it change the tuning?
Using the posted DSP settings will get you pretty close to where you need to be. It won't change the tuning though, the tuning is set by the physical dimensions of the box and port(s) and the parameters of the driver. The DSP is to help flatten out the response of the driver and box combo. If you use those settings, like I said you'll be close, but maybe not as flat as someone else. Which is all pretty loosely interpreted, because each person's room and set up will yield a different response and require fine tuning anyway.

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post #547 of 552 Old 08-13-2017, 04:24 AM
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So I received my two PA460's and have the sides, top, bottom, and back of my enclosures assembled. Now it's time for the front baffle and ports.

Has anyone made a slot port for this design? If so, what are the optimal dimensions?

Or if using 4" round ports, with a flair on the front and back of the port tube, what is the optimal length and how many ports are required?
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post #548 of 552 Old 08-13-2017, 10:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tip24/96 View Post
So I received my two PA460's and have the sides, top, bottom, and back of my enclosures assembled. Now it's time for the front baffle and ports.

Has anyone made a slot port for this design? If so, what are the optimal dimensions?

Or if using 4" round ports, with a flair on the front and back of the port tube, what is the optimal length and how many ports are required?
In this instance a slot port would require some more engineering because in its current configuration the round ports length is effectively lengthened by how close their opening is to the rear of the cab. That would have to be accounted for with a slot port.
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post #549 of 552 Old 08-13-2017, 11:41 AM - Thread Starter
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I knew I had it posted somewhere in here, note the picture in this post is not for the VBSS design but supposed to show the small lip/flare at the inside port termination to reduce chuffing:
The V.B.S.S. DIY subwoofer design thread
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post #550 of 552 Old 08-14-2017, 12:02 PM
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i'm going to run a pair of these, i have the drivers and ports. to keep it simple and cost effective for now i plan to run 1 iNuke 1000DSP. looking at the back of the amp can i just run one speakon cable to each sub and connect to the sub off a speakon plate? the subs are 8 ohm, do i need to wire differently to get to 4 ohm bridged or is there a setting in the software set up of the amp?

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post #551 of 552 Old 08-15-2017, 03:31 AM
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Quick question for MTG90,

So for the ports each cabinet gets two full length sections of the precision port kits from Parts Express? Does this include the inside and outside flair?
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post #552 of 552 Old 08-15-2017, 09:12 AM - Thread Starter
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