1262w Slot Ported Custom Boxes Build - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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Old 01-02-2016, 10:29 PM - Thread Starter
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1262w Slot Ported Custom Boxes Build

I decided to start a new thread since I made a decision on what to build.

I am going with a pair of slot ported boxes with the Infinity 1262w drivers suggested to me, powered by the iNuke NU3000DSP. I spent most of the day teaching myself sketchup and amazing that now I can do in 5 minutes what took me 2+ hours earlier today when I first downloaded the software. I am having fun with it and learning it will prove useful I am sure not just for the sub build.

Anyway, here is what I came up with below. My boxes, in order to fit into space needed are at their maximum outside dimensions of 16" wide, 19" deep and 30" tall. Before I finalize the design and make a cut list, need some input and this gets technical where I am very weak at the moment:

1. I separated the slot ports into two. Each 1" tall by 6 1/8" wide. Should I remove that middle brace and simply have a single 1" x 13" slot port? That would give a little more volume to the port.

2. The ports go in 18" to the back of the sub and then I have them running up the back of the sub another 21". For lowest tuning in the box of this size (I am hoping for 20-23Hz), how far up the back wall should the port(s) go?

3. I centered the driver in the front of the box. Is that ok, or should it be higher/lower or does it really not make a difference and position is aesthetic only?

Thanks to everyone for all the help so far.



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Old 01-02-2016, 11:18 PM
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If you are only going with two subs, you could save a little cash by going with an nu1000dsp. Also, the 1260's will work as well as the 1262's, it just depends on what kind of final load / future options you want. The 1260's are single 4ohm voice coil instead of dual voice coil. You can set a limit in the nu3000dsp too if youd rather do that. If there is a plan to add more subs or fill that other location you had in mind down the road, it may be worthwhile to step up to the nu6000dsp to power both locations. Just a couple of thoughts...

I'll leave the slot questions to the guys that know what they are talking about.

As for where the driver is mounted, its mainly aesthetics. Centered usually looks best to me. Lower in the cabinet is more stable.
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Old 01-03-2016, 07:16 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by spieg View Post
If you are only going with two subs, you could save a little cash by going with an nu1000dsp. Also, the 1260's will work as well as the 1262's, it just depends on what kind of final load / future options you want. The 1260's are single 4ohm voice coil instead of dual voice coil. You can set a limit in the nu3000dsp too if youd rather do that. If there is a plan to add more subs or fill that other location you had in mind down the road, it may be worthwhile to step up to the nu6000dsp to power both locations. Just a couple of thoughts...

I'll leave the slot questions to the guys that know what they are talking about.

As for where the driver is mounted, its mainly aesthetics. Centered usually looks best to me. Lower in the cabinet is more stable.
Thank you! I like the driver in the middle too I think so will leave it there. Saving a little $ on the amp, nu1000dsp is $200 vs $280 for the nu3000dsp, price difference is relatively small if it gives me flexibility down the road. I will probably eventually build something larger in that cubby away from the TV area but cannot run wires to it so that location will have to have its own amp anyway.

If I can only get someone with technical expertise to model and opine on the port design/length then I can finalize the design today, get sketchup to spit me out a cut list and go get MDF from Home Depot. I have a table saw but need to buy a router and bits. I always wanted one as I'd love to get more into woodworking so that is not a big deal and will not be considered an expense of this build, just an addition to my tool portfolio.
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Old 01-03-2016, 08:33 AM
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So you haven't modeled in WinISD? The 39"long port is a guess?
Port area and length (volume) determine tune, but you also need to look at port velocity and resonance.

I am posting from my phone, I'm not at home by my pc to model this box. But if you learned Sketchup, WinISD is a useful tool and not hard to learn. (And free)

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Old 01-03-2016, 09:39 AM - Thread Starter
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So you haven't modeled in WinISD? The 39"long port is a guess?
Port area and length (volume) determine tune, but you also need to look at port velocity and resonance.

I am posting from my phone, I'm not at home by my pc to model this box. But if you learned Sketchup, WinISD is a useful tool and not hard to learn. (And free)
Yes, 39" length is a guess, but easily modified in the model.

You are right, modeling in WinISD is what I need help with for the ports / proper tune. I was hoping to rely on some expertise which seems plentiful around here. The thought of installing and learning another software after sketchup last two days sounds awful. I hate to sound lazy but my head is fuzzy and my eyes are strained from all the research last 3-4 days...

If I don't hear back by tonight I will take the plunge with WinISD, but in the mean time I need to spend a little time with wife / kids as they haven't really seen me last couple of days. My son came to wake me up and said:

"You know what today is? It is national no talking about subwoofers day on the last day of winter break and spend more time with me day."

I feel like I need to hear his message, LOL.
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Old 01-03-2016, 09:41 AM
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According to your dimensions, assuming a double front baffle, you have an initial box of 4^ft. Subtract ~.25 for port, driver and bracing, we'll call it 3.75^ft. My modeling shows a port 1"x13"x20.5" will give you a tune of ~20Hz, an F3 around 25Hz @ 108dB (with a 20Hz HPF) feeding it 325W. Cone excursion and port velocity look good.

A 39" port is much too long.
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Old 01-03-2016, 10:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by smcmillan2 View Post
According to your dimensions, assuming a double front baffle, you have an initial box of 4^ft. Subtract ~.25 for port, driver and bracing, we'll call it 3.75^ft. My modeling shows a port 1"x13"x20.5" will give you a tune of ~20Hz, an F3 around 25Hz @ 108dB (with a 20Hz HPF) feeding it 325W. Cone excursion and port velocity look good.

A 39" port is much too long.
Thank you. That is exactly what I needed. The port is a lot shorter than I thought, so only 1.5" up the back wall and remove the middle brace that separates the ports to make it a single slot. Off to finish this then finally going to get some MDF!
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Old 01-03-2016, 12:48 PM
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I'd tell you what my port length is, but i dont remember now. Its nice to see more of these drivers used. I am running 2 in a slot ported enclosure.

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Old 01-03-2016, 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by idrobnjak View Post
Yes, 39" length is a guess, but easily modified in the model.

You are right, modeling in WinISD is what I need help with for the ports / proper tune. I was hoping to rely on some expertise which seems plentiful around here. The thought of installing and learning another software after sketchup last two days sounds awful. I hate to sound lazy but my head is fuzzy and my eyes are strained from all the research last 3-4 days...

If I don't hear back by tonight I will take the plunge with WinISD, but in the mean time I need to spend a little time with wife / kids as they haven't really seen me last couple of days. My son came to wake me up and said:

"You know what today is? It is national no talking about subwoofers day on the last day of winter break and spend more time with me day."

I feel like I need to hear his message, LOL.
And you're just getting started - for the amount of time, effort, and funds that will go into this, you should take a moment to stop and consider buying a sealed 4cuft DIYSG flatpack for one of the lower cost 18" Dayton drivers. Perhaps this is another non-starter with your wife and will carry a slight price premium over your tentative plan, but you'll reduce your assembly labor quite a bit and end up with something far more capable. Alternatively if you're set on a ported box, consider the ported 15" box from DIYSG, again because of the convenience/time factor.

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Old 01-03-2016, 02:42 PM
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I would leave the center port brace in to help stiffen the panels and reduce box resonance.
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Old 01-03-2016, 03:49 PM - Thread Starter
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And you're just getting started - for the amount of time, effort, and funds that will go into this, you should take a moment to stop and consider buying a sealed 4cuft DIYSG flatpack for one of the lower cost 18" Dayton drivers. Perhaps this is another non-starter with your wife and will carry a slight price premium over your tentative plan, but you'll reduce your assembly labor quite a bit and end up with something far more capable. Alternatively if you're set on a ported box, consider the ported 15" box from DIYSG, again because of the convenience/time factor.
Trust me, I would happily pay for 2 flat packs that are 19x16x30 and fit in my spaces. Problem is no one makes those exact dimensions...

Just back from Home Depot. They cut my large pieces and I will cut the rest from the remnants.
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Old 01-03-2016, 03:53 PM
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Hope they cut them straighter than they did for me, a long time ago!
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Old 01-03-2016, 05:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Hope they cut them straighter than they did for me, a long time ago!
The kid working evening shift did a pretty good job. I watched him like a hawk though with a tape measurer in my hand. His first cut the full length of 8 feet was to be 29.25". It ended up being 1/8 of an inch off so he discarded the whole panel. I checked the next 3-4 cuts and he was doing good. I remeasured everything when I got home and the largest mistake is off by between 1/16 and 1/32 of an inch. Probably enough to give me a little bit of trouble when I go to put it all together but not insurmountable.

Now cleaning up the garage and organizing tools, plan to finish all the cuts hopefully this week in the evenings after work. I am a perfectionist and work at snail's pace unfortunately.
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Old 01-03-2016, 05:11 PM - Thread Starter
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I would leave the center port brace in to help stiffen the panels and reduce box resonance.
Hmmm. Wouldn't that reduce the port volume and I would need to go longer than 20.5" then?

I think it looks nicer with split ports, but would need to have someone model that again for me for proper length of 20 Hz tune. I haven't done those small cuts yet so not late for adjustments.
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Old 01-03-2016, 05:27 PM
 
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Originally Posted by idrobnjak View Post
I need to spend a little time with wife / kids as they haven't really seen me last couple of days. My son came to wake me up and said:

"You know what today is? It is national no talking about subwoofers day on the last day of winter break and spend more time with me day."

I feel like I need to hear his message, LOL.
LOL! Yes, keep the team on your side! Your son gets right to the point, eh?
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Old 01-03-2016, 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by idrobnjak View Post
The kid working evening shift did a pretty good job. I watched him like a hawk though with a tape measurer in my hand. His first cut the full length of 8 feet was to be 29.25". It ended up being 1/8 of an inch off so he discarded the whole panel. I checked the next 3-4 cuts and he was doing good. I remeasured everything when I got home and the largest mistake is off by between 1/16 and 1/32 of an inch. Probably enough to give me a little bit of trouble when I go to put it all together but not insurmountable.

Now cleaning up the garage and organizing tools, plan to finish all the cuts hopefully this week in the evenings after work. I am a perfectionist and work at snail's pace unfortunately.

Good! Some of my panels were an eighth inch off!
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Old 01-03-2016, 07:16 PM - Thread Starter
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This was my final design, what I based the cut list on. If anyone ever needs the file to modify things for their purpose just let me know:

Pic views are:

1. Front
2. With double front baffle panels removed
3. With rear panel removed

If you see something that doesn't look right, let me know. And if it makes sense to add the divider in the slot port, what would the new port length need to be. Thanks for all the input thus far.
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Old 01-04-2016, 08:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idrobnjak View Post
This was my final design, what I based the cut list on. If anyone ever needs the file to modify things for their purpose just let me know:

Pic views are:

1. Front
2. With double front baffle panels removed
3. With rear panel removed

If you see something that doesn't look right, let me know. And if it makes sense to add the divider in the slot port, what would the new port length need to be. Thanks for all the input thus far.
I would add the center port brace back in. The volume of that brace is only ~ 0.008 cuft so adding it back in will not significantly effect the tuning or port velocity. But it will add to the stiffness of that panel.

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Old 01-27-2016, 05:58 AM
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Cool build!, Wondering any progress on this build?
I may be looking to build / try this one, do you have the google sketchup file to share, would greatly help on matching the parts needed to be made with how your last revision / pics show, I would like to pair two of these with eng-99's dual 1262 sealed near field set-up, gonna ues an inuke 3000 DSP, thanks!
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Old 01-27-2016, 06:23 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by TheaterChad View Post
Cool build!, Wondering any progress on this build?
I may be looking to build / try this one, do you have the google sketchup file to share, would greatly help on matching the parts needed to be made with how your last revision / pics show, I would like to pair two of these with eng-99's dual 1262 sealed near field set-up, gonna ues an inuke 3000 DSP, thanks!
I have made some progress but nowhere as much as I thought I would. I got all the parts cut and started gluing the first box together, but did it in a 35 degree garage which is apparently a big no-no for wood glue. Work got in the way and travelling the western U.S. this week and next. I do have a sketchup file and will be happy to share, however will not be by my computer until the week of Feb 8 if you can wait that long.

Your future setup sounds cool.
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Old 01-27-2016, 10:06 AM
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Thanks for your reply,
Mostly checking how long the port length part is from the opening towards the inside, and the 90degree part that rests on that part, looks like 2" or so high, I can easily wait till you return / or have ability to attach the sketch up file, it's really helpful rather trying to explain questions with dimensions, yes i know what you mean with cold temps, it was very cold here in minneapolis over the past 2 weeks, so I'm in a holding pattern for it to get warm as well, to resume some speaker building, just appreciate sharing your info.

I'm looking to use these laying them on their side, don't see why this wouldn't work as good as them vertical,
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