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post #1 of 37 Old 01-24-2016, 11:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Anyone have any projects going that could benefit from CNC

I am currently between projects and was wondering if anyone has anything I could help them with. I have a CNC mill and work mostly with aluminum and plastic. I have a knack of finding ways of doing things cheaply and accurately.

I have recently completed a pair of Marty variant subs for my theater and also have recently deleted the original electronics from a pair of mfw 15 subs.

http://www.grifftek.com/grifftek/Oth...y_sub_variant/

http://www.grifftek.com/grifftek/Oth...r/av123_mfw15/

I like working on "projects" where I can apply my experience and craftsmanship. I love car audio and home theater but also enjoy many other electro mechanical things as well.

If you have something I could help with, please email me at grifftek at grifftek dot c o m with a description of your project and what your looking for.

You can see some of my other home theater related projects here:



http://www.grifftek.com/grifftek/Oth..._2008_Control/

http://www.grifftek.com/grifftek/Oth...eakon_housing/

http://www.grifftek.com/grifftek/Oth...peaker_donuts/

if you want to see the commercial cnc work I do just pm or email me and I can send you some more links.

Bill
please email me at grifftek at grifftek dot c o m

I'm looking for something fun and or challenging to work on.
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post #2 of 37 Old 01-24-2016, 11:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grifftek View Post
I am currently between projects and was wondering if anyone has anything I could help them with. I have a CNC mill and work mostly with aluminum and plastic. I have a knack of finding ways of doing things cheaply and accurately.
He asks the day I finish building 6 boxes... Just kidding, but at the same time, I would have really liked to take advantage of your services. I'm sure you'll have no trouble finding someone looking for a custom flat pack.
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post #3 of 37 Old 01-24-2016, 11:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Mike Schacht View Post
He asks the day I finish building 6 boxes... Just kidding, but at the same time, I would have really liked to take advantage of your services. I'm sure you'll have no trouble finding someone looking for a custom flat pack.
I have a cnc milling machine, not a cnc router. Whil I can make some parts out of wood, cutting flat pack with my machine is not practical. I do have a friend with a commercial grade cnc router that he uses in his plastics business. he cuts wood sheet quite frequently as part of his business.

Regards

Bill
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post #4 of 37 Old 01-25-2016, 06:35 AM
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on image 30 what size round over bit did you use ?
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post #5 of 37 Old 01-25-2016, 09:16 AM - Thread Starter
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on image 30 what size round over bit did you use ?
I believe that it was a 3/4 radius. I have my radius gages on my desk, ill verify it when I get home tonight and let you know for sure.


CORRECTION, its 3/8" Radius



Bill

Last edited by grifftek; 01-25-2016 at 10:07 PM. Reason: correction
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post #6 of 37 Old 01-25-2016, 09:19 AM
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Cheers for offering your services
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post #7 of 37 Old 01-25-2016, 04:48 PM
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post #8 of 37 Old 01-25-2016, 08:17 PM
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Have you though about making mounting rings for the more popular drivers like 15 & 18" Dayton Ultimax and HO drivers? So instead of using wood screws into baffles or even t-nuts you use a threaded insert behind the baffles....
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post #9 of 37 Old 01-25-2016, 10:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EndersShadow View Post
Have you though about making mounting rings for the more popular drivers like 15 & 18" Dayton Ultimax and HO drivers? So instead of using wood screws into baffles or even t-nuts you use a threaded insert behind the baffles....
I have not considered this other than the donuts I made for my marty sub variant.

What kind of inserts would be preferred?

What material? birch ply? MDF? standard plywood? metal? other?

Single Piece construction or 2 part with interlocking tabs?

I cant find any pictures where I remade the donuts with a smaller ID to allow more meat around the t nuts. The originals were sketchy at best!

Do you have a need for these rings? If you want to figure out what ID, OD and bolt hole circle diameter and hole info you need for the speaker your using and id be happy to make up a prototype and we will see where it goes from there.

Bill
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post #10 of 37 Old 01-26-2016, 08:30 AM
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I could absolutely use some of your services in the future. In probably some sort of order I will be adding some marine audio to my boat in the Spring. Building out a complete DIY home theatre in the fall/winter (Atmos with DIY speakers, Some ridiculous IB or Transmission Line sub in a huge concrete cavity, 2.35:1 screen, etc). Car audio system once the other two are complete (and I purchase a new vehicle).

Not exactly sure what parts will make sense to work together on, but I'm sure there's a bunch. I checked out your website, maybe add some more pics so everyone knows what you've done before.
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post #11 of 37 Old 01-26-2016, 09:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grifftek View Post
I have not considered this other than the donuts I made for my marty sub variant.

What kind of inserts would be preferred?

What material? birch ply? MDF? standard plywood? metal? other?

Single Piece construction or 2 part with interlocking tabs?

I cant find any pictures where I remade the donuts with a smaller ID to allow more meat around the t nuts. The originals were sketchy at best!

Do you have a need for these rings? If you want to figure out what ID, OD and bolt hole circle diameter and hole info you need for the speaker your using and id be happy to make up a prototype and we will see where it goes from there.

Bill
Will type a longer response later. But something like this specific to a couple different subs (Dayton 15 & 18" ultimax and maybe the HO drivers)...

The ones in the pic below are specific to Polk SDA drivers, but the same concept would do well for those folks building DIY subs to ensure a nice tight fit and never having to worry about if they need to take the sub out stripping out t-nuts or hurricane nuts


My Setup

 

 

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post #12 of 37 Old 01-26-2016, 09:49 AM
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Very nice
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post #13 of 37 Old 01-26-2016, 10:55 AM
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That does look good. Perhaps maybe an 1/8" larger or so than the speaker, man that could make a very nice effect on the baffle
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post #14 of 37 Old 01-26-2016, 11:05 AM
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Could you make two brackets for my Rega turntable. I would provide the exact dimensions for the tone arm and bearing mounts. Probably use 1/8 or 3/32 stock.



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post #15 of 37 Old 01-26-2016, 07:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Nice looking sheet metal parts. Were they laser cut, water jetted or stamped? Are those pemserts installed for the threads?

Over the years I have made more than a few sheet metal parts from billet. I have even machined the sheetmetal and done some forming and installed pemserts using my hydraulic press. Not the most efficient way to make these parts but it was the fastest way to a workable prototype.

What do you think of having some billet parts with threaded bosses. each piece would capture 2 of the mounting bolts:











These parts could be made rather quickly from barstock. If they didn't have all the material hogged off of them, they would be even quicker and would just be threaded nut plates:



These are just 3d mockups, none of the dimensions are correct, its just an idea of what I could make pretty easily that would work to hold a sub in. If someone is building a sub and wants to try a set contact me so we can get the dimensions worked out and ill make up a set to try.

I'm in the 90242 / 90740 / 90670 / 92807 zipcode, if your local that is a plus.


Bill

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post #16 of 37 Old 01-26-2016, 08:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnmark View Post
Could you make two brackets for my Rega turntable. I would provide the exact dimensions for the tone arm and bearing mounts. Probably use 1/8 or 3/32 stock.
Would need to see a drawing of the part or if you have a photo of the part that would be a starting point.

Bill
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post #17 of 37 Old 01-26-2016, 08:16 PM
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I'd love it if you could make some black anodized rack mount brackets for the XMC-1 as Emotiva seems very uninterested to make them available for the thousands of dollars of equipment I have. Nothing like buying nice expensive stuff to put in your professional looking rack and having to set it on universal shelves
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post #18 of 37 Old 01-26-2016, 08:23 PM - Thread Starter
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I'd love it if you could make some black anodized rack mount brackets for the XMC-1 as Emotiva seems very uninterested to make them available for the thousands of dollars of equipment I have. Nothing like buying nice expensive stuff to put in your professional looking rack and having to set it on universal shelves

Do you have a design for these brackets? do you have brackets we can reverse engineer?
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post #19 of 37 Old 01-26-2016, 08:32 PM
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No I don't. I have seen pictures of some of the Emo brackets on their site or in the Emo forums and they do look very nice but have none myself. The ones for the XMC-1 and UPA-700 are the same with different holes drilled into them where they attach to the equipment.

Who knows why they haven't got them available. Maybe their supplier isn't making them for them. Maybe most of them aren't available when they show available on their site. Maybe they don't make enough profit on them and just don't care.

But it's really annoying when you're told by the salesman, "well we were just in a meeting about this today". I asked if I could order them and they'd ship when available but he said no. Can't even tell me if they will EVER be available. That was a month ago. I see older posts going back a year and they have probably been unavailable forever. Now seeing as how they've sold hundreds if not thousands of XMC-1's and these amps, you can't tell me it wouldn't behoove them to get them available for many of their customers who I'm sure rack mount this stuff. I'm calling them again tomorrow for an update.

Maybe you can call them and ask if they need help producing these things. May be a good business venture for you
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post #20 of 37 Old 01-28-2016, 02:35 PM - Thread Starter
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No I don't. I have seen pictures of some of the Emo brackets on their site or in the Emo forums and they do look very nice but have none myself. SNIP

Maybe you can call them and ask if they need help producing these things. May be a good business venture for you
if they treat their customers that way, they probably treat their vendors even worse!

If you want to design up a set of brackets or can get a set to reverse engineer, I can help you out.

Bill
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post #21 of 37 Old 01-28-2016, 09:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by JustBusiness View Post
I could absolutely use some of your services in the future. In probably some sort of order I will be adding some marine audio to my boat in the Spring. Building out a complete DIY home theatre in the fall/winter (Atmos with DIY speakers, Some ridiculous IB or Transmission Line sub in a huge concrete cavity, 2.35:1 screen, etc). Car audio system once the other two are complete (and I purchase a new vehicle).

Not exactly sure what parts will make sense to work together on, but I'm sure there's a bunch. I checked out your website, maybe add some more pics so everyone knows what you've done before.
Looks like you will have some fun projects coming up. Keep me in mind, always looking for fun projects to work on.

I always have to have a project or 2 running to keep my mind busy.

Here are some pics of some recent personal projects. The aluminum plates for the mini cnc router were made the past 2 evenings. the motor mount project has been ongoing for the past couple weeks on and off and the rest in the past few months. I will post some links if anyone wants to take the time to look at more of my projects.



Here are the links to the projects posted above in most recent order:

http://www.grifftek.com/grifftek/Mac...arts_nick_sky/

http://www.grifftek.com/grifftek/Mac...ts/motormount/

http://www.grifftek.com/grifftek/Mac...ngofthecrawl3/

http://www.grifftek.com/grifftek/Mac...ingofthecrawl/

http://www.grifftek.com/grifftek/Oth...e_Amp_Control/

http://www.grifftek.com/grifftek/Mac.../Lobster_Gage/

http://www.grifftek.com/7803/APW_Wyott_BBQ_Cart/

http://www.grifftek.com/7803/Sunset_...22_Armrest_tl/



If anyone wants more, check out the following links:

http://www.grifftek.com/grifftek/Mac...ning_projects/

http://www.grifftek.com/grifftek/Mac...achined_parts/

http://www.grifftek.com/grifftek/Cus...and_Retrofits/

http://www.grifftek.com/grifftek/Oth...s_and_Hobbies/


here are some 3d printed projects also:

http://www.grifftek.com/grifftek/3d_printing/

Last edited by grifftek; 01-28-2016 at 09:19 PM. Reason: added link
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post #22 of 37 Old 01-29-2016, 06:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EndersShadow View Post
Will type a longer response later. But something like this specific to a couple different subs (Dayton 15 & 18" ultimax and maybe the HO drivers)...

The ones in the pic below are specific to Polk SDA drivers, but the same concept would do well for those folks building DIY subs to ensure a nice tight fit and never having to worry about if they need to take the sub out stripping out t-nuts or hurricane nuts


Yah something like that would be amazing.

I'm in Orange County CA, and currently putting together an Ultimax 18"

Been scratching my head trying to figure out what would be the best course of action for attaching the speaker to the baffle.
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post #23 of 37 Old 01-29-2016, 08:01 PM
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I'm prototyping rings like those right now

Just to let others know that I was quietly working on speaker rings like what are in the pics. Wanted to wait until I had something to present to Parts Express packaged and ready to ship.
It is a very small market so I wasn't planning on quitting my day job to produce them.
My design is slightly different to keep costs down and would function better than whats out there already. I was building my 6x Lab15's cabinets to test the concept.
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post #24 of 37 Old 02-02-2016, 04:45 AM
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@grifftek , I was looking through your various projects and noticed that you can/have milled PCB's. Do you think you could mill a PCB for the 1899 sold by DIYSG? Here is a pic of the home made ones that @Patzig completed for his recent build.



I can only assume that he had to fabricate those because @Erich H did not provide the PCB's in the kit.

I plan to purchase a few 1899 kits in the near future and would love a nice PCB's to make assembly more streamlined.

Let us know if this is something you could tackle as I am sure others would potentially be interested as well.
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post #25 of 37 Old 02-02-2016, 07:31 PM - Thread Starter
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@grifftek , I was looking through your various projects and noticed that you can/have milled PCB's. Do you think you could mill a PCB for the 1899 sold by DIYSG? SNIP
Yes I can / have milled many circuit boards, lots more than you seen on my site. I have a friend that has a commercial PCB mill and software that he uses for his product design and development engineering company.

Is there a schematic for the board? Has anyone laid out an actual pcb using eagle or one of the other pcb design programs?

if there is interest in a qty of these boards, it isn't that expensive to get 50 boards from a prototype house

Here is one I have heard good things about in the past: http://www.expresspcb.com/

I will be visiting my friend this evening I will ask him what he woudl charge to do a professional layout and have the boards professionally made and what qty he thinks it woudl take to make this a worthwhile endeavour for him.

In the end if you just want 5 or 6 im sure I can come up with something that works that woudl be similar to the milled pcb shown here:

http://www.grifftek.com/grifftek/Oth..._2008_Control/





Bill
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post #26 of 37 Old 02-03-2016, 03:40 AM - Thread Starter
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I made a posting earlier but it doesn't seem to have shown up.

Earlier today I made some parts for a forum member to use as t nuts to mount his Ultimax woofer.

This member had the panels cut on a cnc router but failed to use the cnc to produce the holes and speaker cutout opting to hand drill the holes after receiving the driver.

The sheet metal rings are very sexy using the pem serts and all but these will require fabrication by a sheet metal shop in qty. they will require very accurate hole spacing and may even require cnc to be able to hold tight enough tolerances for a tight fit or will require over sized holes to allow for proper alignment.

I decided to make some machined blocks that can be installed on the baffle with a couple screws to hold it in place after installing the woofer mounting bolt. Easily done with the baffle not attached to the enclosure. But can be accomplished with an assembled box with some ingenuity.

Personally I think the plywood donuts with the t-nuts ( i call them hammer nuts) installed are a simpler and easier solution but the aluminum t-nuts are pretty nice if you like billet parts.

The parts I made were designed as 1/4 inch thick parts.I didnt have the appropriate piece of stock so I opted to make them 1/2 inch thick.

You can see the project on a web page at http://www.grifftek.com/grifftek/Mac...ts/Nutplates4/



here are a few images:







lots more images of the project here:

http://www.grifftek.com/grifftek/Mac...ts/Nutplates4/

Bill
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post #27 of 37 Old 02-03-2016, 08:31 PM
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Could you make an aluminum skid plate for the front of a car?

Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk

Krister
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post #28 of 37 Old 02-04-2016, 12:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Could you make an aluminum skid plate for the front of a car?

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I think your in the wrong forum!

But ill play along, Yes, I could probably make a skid plate for a car, especially if its an RC car preferably in the 1/10 scale as that is the size parts I like machining from billet! And I happen to have a fair amount of experience with old school tenth scale RC!

But I suspect that you are asking for a skid plate for a full sized auto of some sort. I do have a plasma cutter and a welder but I use these for steel not aluminum.

This kind of request would be something that falls way outside my area of expertise and Id suggest that you find a local metal fabricator or sheet metal shop to work with.

Regards

Bill
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post #29 of 37 Old 02-04-2016, 07:36 AM
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I am currently between projects and was wondering if anyone has anything I could help them with. I have a CNC mill and work mostly with aluminum and plastic. I have a knack of finding ways of doing things cheaply and accurately.

I have recently completed a pair of Marty variant subs for my theater and also have recently deleted the original electronics from a pair of mfw 15 subs.

http://www.grifftek.com/grifftek/Oth...y_sub_variant/

http://www.grifftek.com/grifftek/Oth...r/av123_mfw15/

I like working on "projects" where I can apply my experience and craftsmanship. I love car audio and home theater but also enjoy many other electro mechanical things as well.

If you have something I could help with, please email me at grifftek at grifftek dot c o m with a description of your project and what your looking for.

You can see some of my other home theater related projects here:



http://www.grifftek.com/grifftek/Oth..._2008_Control/

http://www.grifftek.com/grifftek/Oth...eakon_housing/

http://www.grifftek.com/grifftek/Oth...peaker_donuts/

if you want to see the commercial cnc work I do just pm or email me and I can send you some more links.

Bill
please email me at grifftek at grifftek dot c o m

I'm looking for something fun and or challenging to work on.
What type of CNC do you have?

Details please: X, Y, Z travel/ spindle RPM / toolchanger size & type etc
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post #30 of 37 Old 02-04-2016, 10:12 PM - Thread Starter
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What type of CNC do you have?

Details please: X, Y, Z travel/ spindle RPM / toolchanger size & type etc
Centroid M400AC control, rigid tapping, programmable coolant nozzle, tool touch probe,

Specifications
Model Atrump B5AC
Work Table 305mm x 1270mm (12" x 50")
Table T-slots (WxN) 18mm (0.71")x3
Table load max. 640kg (1400lbs)(center)
X-axis travel 850mm (33-1/2")
Y-axis travel 460mm (18)
Z-axis travel 485mm (19")
Spindle nose to table 110-595mm (4-5/16"-23-3/8")
Spindle center to column 480mm (18-7/8")
Spindle taper BT #40 (CAT #40 )
Spindle speed 60-6000R.P.M.
Spindle motor 7-1/2HP(*more)
3 Axes drive motor DC or AC 1kw
Cutting feed 4M/min (1~160 ipm)
Rapid feed 10M/min (350 ipm)
ATC type Armless Type
Tool change time (Tool to Tool) 12 sec
Max. tool diameter Ø 100mm (Ø3-15/16")
Max. tool length 275mm (10-15/16")
Max. tool weight 7.5kgs (16 lbs)
Floor space (LxWxH) 270x180x215cm (106x71x85")
Weight (Approx.) 2650kgs (5800lbs)
Packed size (LxWxH) 180x200x230cm (71x79x90")
Positioning accuracy ∂ 0.01mm (∂ 0.0004")
Repeatability accuracy ∂ 0.005mm (∂ 0.0002")
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