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post #1 of 20 Unread 01-30-2016, 09:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Subwoofers recommendation please - incl room specs

Hi all. Well I just pulled the trigger on (3) Elusive 1099 (L/C/R respectively) and (2) Volt 6" in tapered boxes for surrounds to make my 5.0 setup. I am building a new 18'w x 22'l x 9'h HT and would like subwoofer recommendations at this point. All 1099's will be hidden behind a 120" AT screen. I could also fit the subs there (although that would limit depth to 18") or just build them larger and keep them out in the open. Ideally I'd like them to be hidden behind the screen but I'm not willing to sacrifice a lot of output to keep them hidden.

Erich mentioned to me that most people make the mistake of underestimating the amount of SW needed. I hope to avoid that pitfall. I have 2k left to spend.

Any suggestions (driver size, make, ports, no ports, enclosure size, amps) are all very much appreciated. Thanks in advance for guidance.
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post #2 of 20 Unread 01-30-2016, 09:33 PM
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post #3 of 20 Unread 01-30-2016, 09:37 PM
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post #4 of 20 Unread 01-30-2016, 09:40 PM
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post #5 of 20 Unread 01-30-2016, 09:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wvu80 View Post
Two Ultimax 18's and an Inuke 6000 w/dsp is the standard response on this board, and the math is easy! $400 + $400 + $400 is $1200!


Or Subsititite the Ultimax for RE Audio XXX 18's
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post #6 of 20 Unread 01-30-2016, 10:26 PM
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You have enough width and height to be able to put the speakers in-wall hidden behind fabric but not behind the screen. If you are willing to have the sound from the center be just-below the screen instead of dead-center... then you won't lose more than 1db.

If you put it behind an AT screen you will lose a few more db and the sound will be slightly muffled/smeared.
You probably wouldn't notice it unless you compared the before and after differences and were also a golden ear.

Stuff below 200hz won't be affected by the AT screen at all, it's mostly the tweeter and upper midrange that you might notice a change.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wvu80 View Post
Two Ultimax 18's and an Inuke 6000 w/dsp is the standard response on this board, and the math is easy! $400 + $400 + $400 is $1200!
Yep that would be pretty good.
15-20hz Ported is slightly louder than sealed, but also requires bigger boxes (like 33-100% bigger).

and if you want more >40hz bass, add two of either of these in addition to the UM subs:
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton...oofer--295-036
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton...8-ohm--295-042
Powered with a second nu6kDSP.

That will consume your entire subwoofer budget, but give you pretty good actionable bass.
Are there better subwoofers? Absolutely... but they all cost more (like double or triple!)

You'll need at least 1 dedicated 15a breaker (absolute minimum), preferably two 20a breakers.
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post #7 of 20 Unread 01-31-2016, 06:04 AM
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My rm is 14x 23 n one modified martycube will send vibrations through it. For your rm 2 modified Marty'cubes will be more than enough for most people. Depth on mine is 18 inches to fit behind screen. U can get both done with an Inuke amp for around one thousand. Take a day to do if u don't need to paint it
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post #8 of 20 Unread 01-31-2016, 07:20 AM - Thread Starter
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great suggestions thx all.

Generally, if one uses a smaller enclosure (regardless of the reason) will that negatively impact the output of the SW?
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post #9 of 20 Unread 01-31-2016, 07:24 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BassThatHz View Post
You have enough width and height to be able to put the speakers in-wall hidden behind fabric but not behind the screen. If you are willing to have the sound from the center be just-below the screen instead of dead-center... then you won't lose more than 1db.

If you put it behind an AT screen you will lose a few more db and the sound will be slightly muffled/smeared.
You probably wouldn't notice it unless you compared the before and after differences and were also a golden ear.

Stuff below 200hz won't be affected by the AT screen at all, it's mostly the tweeter and upper midrange that you might notice a change.



Yep that would be pretty good.
15-20hz Ported is slightly louder than sealed, but also requires bigger boxes (like 33-100% bigger).

and if you want more >40hz bass, add two of either of these in addition to the UM subs:
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton...oofer--295-036
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton...8-ohm--295-042
Powered with a second nu6kDSP.

That will consume your entire subwoofer budget, but give you pretty good actionable bass.
Are there better subwoofers? Absolutely... but they all cost more (like double or triple!)

You'll need at least 1 dedicated 15a breaker (absolute minimum), preferably two 20a breakers.
Is there a concern that I won't have enought >40hz output with the Ultimax 18's? Thx for the suggestion I'll look into this.

Can you expand on the 'better' SW comment? What are you getting for 3x the money? Trying to determine which way to go but ATM the suggestions above are the most appealing option. Thoughts?

Last edited by ddigler; 01-31-2016 at 07:29 AM.
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post #10 of 20 Unread 01-31-2016, 07:25 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BBS G35 View Post
Or Subsititite the Ultimax for RE Audio XXX 18's
What is the difference between these? Looking into all of these options thx everyone
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post #11 of 20 Unread 02-01-2016, 12:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ddigler View Post
Hi all. Well I just pulled the trigger on (3) Elusive 1099 (L/C/R respectively) and (2) Volt 6" in tapered boxes for surrounds to make my 5.0 setup. I am building a new 18'w x 22'l x 9'h HT and would like subwoofer recommendations at this point. All 1099's will be hidden behind a 120" AT screen. I could also fit the subs there (although that would limit depth to 18") or just build them larger and keep them out in the open. Ideally I'd like them to be hidden behind the screen but I'm not willing to sacrifice a lot of output to keep them hidden.
Have you considered a small footprint, slim horn design to fit behind your screen? You could try something like this 18Hz offset FLH tower and substitute with a better driver. Would require some redesigning to fit a larger driver, but output is very high in most good FLH designs.
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post #12 of 20 Unread 02-01-2016, 05:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by specd View Post
Have you considered a small footprint, slim horn design to fit behind your screen? You could try something like this 18Hz offset FLH tower and substitute with a better driver. Would require some redesigning to fit a larger driver, but output is very high in most good FLH designs.
Wow spec - you must be kidding me that is awesome! I am interested in understanding it more for sure. That size, what is the advantage, to make it louder or lower? All those calcs and graphs are way over my head. I will post in that thread for more info.

Last edited by ddigler; 02-01-2016 at 06:02 AM.
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post #13 of 20 Unread 02-01-2016, 09:49 AM
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Have enjoyed my Klipsch SW-115 for a few years now. You have the budget for two. I am in a 20 x 14 dedicated media room, and the performance is massive.
15" ported, forward firing. The opening of The Dark Knight will never have more impact with a seamless integration into the overall sound.
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post #14 of 20 Unread 02-01-2016, 12:34 PM
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A well built horn will increase efficiency, extension, and SPL, at the expense of (usually) being very large. The 18hz tuned horn linked above is a smaller footprint (at expense of SPL) horn than most, thats why I mentioned it. mwmkravchenko has written a lot about horn advantages and he designed the Trio12 horn (huge SPL from an affordable driver) here, which is much larger, lower and louder. I'm sold on them, big bang for the bucks since big increases in efficiency is the major contributing factor of FLH designs. They can be tuned in a wide range as well. Most are not difficult to build just gotta have space for them.
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post #15 of 20 Unread 02-01-2016, 03:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by StephenB222 View Post
Have enjoyed my Klipsch SW-115 for a few years now. You have the budget for two. I am in a 20 x 14 dedicated media room, and the performance is massive.
15" ported, forward firing. The opening of The Dark Knight will never have more impact with a seamless integration into the overall sound.
thats def a nice SW. I will keep it in mind. Looking primarily at DIY ATM.
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post #16 of 20 Unread 02-01-2016, 03:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by specd View Post
A well built horn will increase efficiency, extension, and SPL, at the expense of (usually) being very large. The 18hz tuned horn linked above is a smaller footprint (at expense of SPL) horn than most, thats why I mentioned it. mwmkravchenko has written a lot about horn advantages and he designed the Trio12 horn (huge SPL from an affordable driver) here, which is much larger, lower and louder. I'm sold on them, big bang for the bucks since big increases in efficiency is the major contributing factor of FLH designs. They can be tuned in a wide range as well. Most are not difficult to build just gotta have space for them.
With my false wall I do have more space. I am going to research FLH more and report back. thanks.
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post #17 of 20 Unread Yesterday, 05:23 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by wvu80 View Post
Two Ultimax 18's and an Inuke 6000 w/dsp is the standard response on this board, and the math is easy! $400 + $400 + $400 is $1200!
Can anyone recommend an alternate enclosure for this driver as the enclosure is out of stock? I want to get started on the cabs - God knows I have enough of them to build at this point lol
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post #18 of 20 Unread Yesterday, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by ddigler View Post
Can anyone recommend an alternate enclosure for this driver as the enclosure is out of stock? I want to get started on the cabs - God knows I have enough of them to build at this point lol
9cu ft ported to 18Hz. Aka- The "minimarty"
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post #19 of 20 Unread Yesterday, 08:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ddigler View Post
Can anyone recommend an alternate enclosure for this driver as the enclosure is out of stock? I want to get started on the cabs - God knows I have enough of them to build at this point lol
Check the various options at DIYSoundgroup.com.
http://www.diysoundgroup.com/sealed-...flatpacks.html

The drawback is you won't get the 1/2 price on the enclosure with the PE bundle.

FYI Erich provides those enclosures to PE.
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post #20 of 20 Unread Today, 09:03 AM
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The drawback is you won't get the 1/2 price on the enclosure with the PE bundle.
It looks like PE stopped doing the half off the enclosure just after the XMas rush. I've been watching the UM15 and sealed box, around Xmas it was 262, now it's 292. If you click on that combo that says click here for half off, the link it takes you to now says $30 off. I've been kinda meaning to call them and see if they'll still do the half off, but it looks to be over. The price is still good compared to the marty boxes. Though I wish I could get a micro Marty flatpack for like $100-$125 for a UM15, I'd be all over it then.
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