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post #1 of 122 Old 02-02-2016, 10:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Bamboo 1099 Kit Step-by-Step Assembly Guide

Updated 6/13/16: Added some additional clarification regarding the placement of the crossovers, and also added yet more info regarding the installation of the binding posts. Lastly, added that the item from IKEA I used for speaker stands is now discontinued.

UPDATED 6/11/16: Added some additional tips for installing the binding posts.

UPDATED 5/9/16: The first version of this guide is complete! I apologize for the lack of pictures for some of the steps, but hopefully someone else can post some of the various steps when they assemble their own!

This is my very first foray into the DIY arena, so I eased into things by going the AIY route and ordered the 1099 kits with completed bamboo cabinets


This thread probably won't be nearly as excited as the other true 1099 build threads since there are far less steps, but my goal is to establish a step-by-step guide for the easiest possible way to get 1099s up and running.

Let's start with what you'll need to create three 1099s (Note: You can get a lot of these items from your local hardware store, but I've included direct links to various online stores for quick/easy reference).

Speaker Parts:
  • Three 1099 Bamboo Kits from DIYsoundgroup
  • 3 pairs of gold binding posts from DIYsoundgroup
  • 1 panel of masonite hardboard (for crossover mounts...can be much smaller than 4' by 8' shown in the link) from Home Depot
  • 1 4' roll of 2" wide velcro from Michaels
  • 12 nylon bolts, spacers, and nuts (all 1/8") from local hardware store (see pic in Step #14 below)
  • 9 rolls of denim insulation from Home Depot
  • 36 quarter-inch 10-12 AWG Female Tab Disconnects (i.e. crimp-on terminals) from Sears
  • 100 feet of 12 gauge speaker wire (extra wire can be used to connect finished speakers to amp/receiver) from Monoprice
  • 16oz of wood glue from Home Depot
  • 3 assembled 1099 crossover boards from Matt (AVS member mtg90)

Tools:
  • Tape measure
  • Drill
  • 1/8" drill bit
  • 3/16" drill bit
  • 1/4" drill bit
  • 17/64" drill bit (optional)
  • #2 Phillips drill bit
  • 3/32" standard screwdriver
  • Scissors
  • Vacuum
  • Pliers
  • Hammer
  • Hand towel
  • Wire strippers/crimpers
  • Utility knife
  • Pencil
  • Liquid dish soap (optional)
  • Hot glue gun and hot glue
  • 6-pack of your favorite beer

Now that you've gathered all of the necessary items, it's time to assemble the speakers. There are virtually an infinite number of ways this can be accomplished, and I realize the vast majority of these steps are common sense, but hopefully this step-by-step approach provides confidence to even the most hesitant of people.

Assembly Steps:
  1. Open and begin drinking beer #1
  2. Using the drill and the 3/16" drill bit, drill a pair of holes in each of the partitions separating the woofer chamber from the mid chamber in each cabinet. I would suggest drilling these holes about 2.5" from the very back of each cabinet, which should be about the thickness of the denim insulation you will apply later. This will allow you to easily route the speaker wire between the sheets of denim insulation that will eventually line the entire woofer chamber. I would also suggest drilling these holes somewhat equidistant from each side and about 2" apart from each other. You will drill 12 holes total in this step.
  3. Using the drill and the 1/4" drill bit, drill a pair of holes from the rear of each cabinet's exterior into the mid chamber. These holes are for the binding posts, so keep this in mind from both an aesthetic and a logistical standpoint. I drilled the holes so that they once again ended up being about 2.5" away from a partition to allow for the incoming wires to be easily routed between the gaps in the denim insulation sheets. For the left/right speakers, this resulted in holes about 15" from the base of the cabinet (when oriented upright). For the horizontal center, this was about 2.75" from the base of the cabinet (when oriented horizontally). I centered the holes and spaced them 2" apart. You will end up drilling 6 holes in this step.
  4. Attempt to install the gold binding posts by placing each cabinet face down and hammering each binding post into the cabinet. To make this easier, you can apply a very little of liquid dish soap on a paper towel and wipe it around the part of the binding post that will end up being sunk into the cabinet. I would suggest separating the post from the screw-down cap so you're not hammering down on the cap. I would also suggest placing a hand towel over the binding post to prevent damage both to the post and to the cabinet if your hammer misses. Tap firmly a couple of times, and then remove the hand towel to see if the binding post is sinking into the hole you drilled. If it's not, use the drill with the 1/4" drill bit and make the hole a little wider by tilting the drill slightly in various directions while it is running. Then re-attempt to hammer the binding posts into the cabinet. If they still won't go into the cabinet, repeat the step with the drill. I had to widen the holes bit-by-bit a few times until the binding posts were able to fit. You should have to hammer fairly hard, but definitely not as hard as you possibly can in order to get the binding posts installed fully into the cabinet. Alternatively, if you have a 17/64" drill bit, you can use that instead of the 1/4" drill bit. The 17/64" drill bit should eliminate the need to widen the hole using the aforementioned drill-tilt method. You will have installed 6 binding posts upon completion of this step. Keep the caps off.
  5. Using the drill and the 1/8" drill bit, drill holes for the screws that will secure each driver onto the front of the cabinet. The easiest way to do this is to place the speaker on a table or the floor with the front facing up, and then set each driver into their respective openings, using the screw openings as a template for drilling. I would suggest only have one driver set into place at a time to avoid collateral damage if you drop the drill, slip, etc. Doing so will also allow you to remove the drivers from the mid compartment very easily as you can simply pop each driver out with your hand by reaching through an adjacent, vacant opening. Alternative, you can simply mark where each hole should go with a pencil and then remove the driver before drilling. You will drill 84 holes in this step.
  6. Vacuum the inside of each cabinet out, as well as the ring around each driver opening.
  7. Open beer #2 and commence drinking.
  8. Line each interior side of the woofer chambers with a single sheet of denim insulation. The cleanest way to accomplish this is to measure each interior side, including the back, of the woofer chamber as you go. I suggest starting with the back interior side. Measure the dimensions and then cut the denim insulation OUTDOORS (the insulation makes a mess due to the resulting denim dust). Scissors are a good tool to use in order to start the cut, but tearing is almost as clean and WAY faster, especially if you use the edge of a table or ledge as a guide. After you've cut 6 pieces, apply them to the rear interior of each woofer chamber in each cabinet by using wood glue evenly applied to the interior of the chamber. Repeat this same process for each side inside of the woofer chamber, making sure to leave a space for the ports to be inserted. Upon completion of this step, you will have cut and applied 30 pieces of denim insulation.
  9. Insert the plastic ports into each cabinet by simply pushing them into place. When you are done with this step, things should look something like this:


  10. Cut the panel of masonite hardboard into three pieces that are each 1" longer as well as 1" wider than the dimensions of a crossover board from Matt. I had the local hardware store cut the pieces for me, but you can use a utility knife to score the panel, and then break it apart (the former option is much faster, cleaner, and easier than the latter option).
  11. Set each crossover board on top of a cut piece of masonite hardboard, and center the crossover on the board. Using a pencil, mark where the mounting holes are near each of the corners on the crossover board.
  12. Using the drill and a 1/8" drill bit, drill a hole on each of the marks you just made on the masonite. You will drill 12 holes total.
  13. Cut 6 strips of velcro and attach two to one side of each of the pieces of masonite. It will look something like this:
  14. Using the 12 nylon bolts, spacers, and nuts attach the crossover boards to each of the hardboard panels. The bolts will be threaded up from the bottom (velcro side) of the masonite like in the picture below (Note: The velcro wasn't attached yet in the photo). The crossover board from Matt will slide onto the four bolts and be secured with a nut on each bolt.
  15. Open and begin drinking beer #3.
  16. Cut 6 positive and 6 negative strands of speaker wire 2.5' in length using the wire strippers (these will be used to connect the woofers to the crossover).
  17. Cut 12 positive and 12 negative strands of speaker wire 1.5' in length using the wire strippers (these will be used to connect everything else).
  18. Strip one end of each of the 36 wire strands, and attach one of the Female Tab Disconnects to each end using the wire stripper/crimper.
  19. Insert the 6 gold male tabs that came with the binding posts into 6 of the female tabs at the end of 1.5' length wires (3 positive, 3 negative). Thread one nut onto each of the binding posts inside the mid chamber of each cabinet. Then place the gold male tabs onto the binding posts and secure them in place with the second gold nut included with each binding post. Note which wire is positive and which is negative, and thread the appropriately colored binding post caps onto the exteriors of the binding posts.
  20. Route the 6 positive and 6 negative strands of speaker wire 2.5' in length through the woofer chamber into the mid chamber of each cabinet. Make sure to leave a long enough tail of cable in order to connect female disconnects to the male terminal tabs on the woofers.
  21. Seal the gaps around the wires between the woofer chamber and mid chamber in each cabinet using hot glue. It shouldn't take a lot of glue or sealant since the speaker cable should be somewhat snug in the holes to begin with.
  22. Open and begin drinking beer #4.
  23. Strip about 1/8" of sheathing off of the plain cable ends of all 36 cables using the wire strippers
  24. Loosen all of the terminals on the crossover using the 3/32" standard screwdriver.
  25. Insert the stripped cable ends into the respective terminals on each crossover board according to the diagram below, and tighten terminals to be "hand tight" using the 3/32" standard screwdriver. NOTE: Ensure you have the woofer cables and binding post cables routed through the tweeter opening as you connect them to the crossover since this is the one through which the crossover board will be slid into place. You will end up having the crossover all wired up outside of the cabinet.
  26. Place the crossovers inside of the cabinets via the tweeter opening and determine where you want the board to reside. It doesn't matter where it goes as long as you leave enough room for the drivers to be installed. I mounted the crossover board directly behind the mid drivers, which ending up being the bottom of the compartment since I oriented my speakers so that the tweeter is above the mids (see last picture). There was plenty of room in the compartment doing it this way it seemed. If you notice you have a lot of excess speaker cable, now would be the best time to remove it from the crossover board and trim it down.
  27. Remove the backing on the velcro and carefully set the crossover board into place. Make sure it adheres by pressing firmly down around all edges of the board.
  28. Route the cables out of their respective openings (mids and tweeters).
  29. Return to the outdoors and cut/tear multiple sheets of denim insulation in order to neatly fill the entire mid chamber of each cabinet to the point that all of the interior walls are lined with insulation and the insulation just about touches the backside of where each driver will end up. I didn't glue any of the mid chamber insulation in place since when packed neatly, it doesn't have anywhere to shift/move.
  30. Open and begin to drink beer #5.
  31. Using the foam strips supplied with the 1099 kit, line the interior perimeter of the waveguide. It will look something like this, but hopefully you've minimized the gaps even more.

    You can also apply the foam directly to the front face of the cabinet itself if you wish.
  32. Use the foam strips to form a seal for the mids as well. For these, it's much easier to apply the foam to the face of the cabinet.
  33. Attach the tweeter compression driver to the waveguide using the supplied bolts and nuts. Use pliers to tighten the nuts to the point that the tweeter is secured and there is no movement and/or gaps between the driver and the waveguide.
  34. Carefully connect each of the female disconnects to the respective male terminals on the drivers. Some of these will take a bit of force to slide on, so if it seems like you are going to break something, use the standard screwdriver to loosen up the female tabs a bit. Ensure the polarity of all 30 connections is correct before advancing to the next step.
  35. Place each driver into position and line it up with the holes that you drilled in Step #5. Using the drill, a #2 Phillips drill bit, and the black screws supplied with the 1099 kits, set each of the screws into the face of the cabinet, thus securing the drivers. The longer black screws are for the woofers and waveguide. The shorter ones are for the mids. For what it's worth, I set my Dewalt drill clutch to 9 for this step. Ensure that each driver is seated properly on the front baffle. The tolerances are extremely tight on the bamboo cabinets, and the mids are especially prone to getting hung up on one corner or side of their perimeter.
  36. Open and begin drinking beer #6 because you've completed the assembly!

Now for the fun part! It's time to move your brand new 1099s into position and connect them to your amp/receiver.

Setup Steps:
  1. The 1099s seem to favor being placed up off of the ground by about 12" or so. You can easily build your own boxes, or you can find something suitable to set them on. I found the "speaker stands" for my left and right 1099s at IKEA for $15 each (the exact item is now discountinued, but other alternative options might now exist).
  2. Try toeing in the 1099s following the advice of this article
  3. Regarding break-in (taken from 1099 Official Info Thread): "For fast break in, I suggest a sine wave at 35hz turned up until you see the woofer cone moving a couple mm each direction. Avoid ugly noises! Leave that going for half an hour. It should not be to loud as it's below tuning, and won't suck to much power as it's right on an impedance peak. Alternatively, play some heavy bass full range but be careful not to over excursion them." To produce a 35hz tone, I downloaded an app called "Signal Gen" to my phone. I put my phone on silent and airplane mode to ensure no other alerts sounded, and then connected my phone to my pre-pro.

That's it! Hoping this guide will encourage additional people to wade into the DIY waters.

(The dog insisted on being in the photo. I will take another one once I upgrade my phone.. current one turned out a little blurry).
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Last edited by Chipless; 06-13-2016 at 01:21 PM.
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post #2 of 122 Old 02-02-2016, 11:49 AM
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This is a ported enclosure and it looks pretty complete as a kit. Use polyfil for sealed, foam for ported.

There are many types of lining people suggest, but don't use the polyfil. If you are using foam, I like the eggshell type foam.
http://www.parts-express.com/acousti...x-12---260-511


I have some large ported Klipsch floorstanders and they use multiple sheets of 3/4" x2 pieces, foam placed inside loosely, not attached to the side.

Others have suggested Denin insulation, gray looking stuff.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_332024-1410-...ductId=3228226


Congrats on the new speakers. I'm looking forward to your review of them.
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post #3 of 122 Old 02-02-2016, 11:53 AM
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get u some spray adhesive and some foam mattress padding at walmart. 18 gauge wire would be fine from xover to components.
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post #4 of 122 Old 02-02-2016, 05:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wvu80 View Post
This is a ported enclosure and it looks pretty complete as a kit. Use polyfil for sealed, foam for ported.

There are many types of lining people suggest, but don't use the polyfil. If you are using foam, I like the eggshell type foam.
http://www.parts-express.com/acousti...x-12---260-511


I have some large ported Klipsch floorstanders and they use multiple sheets of 3/4" x2 pieces, foam placed inside loosely, not attached to the side.

Others have suggested Denin insulation, gray looking stuff.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_332024-1410-...ductId=3228226


Congrats on the new speakers. I'm looking forward to your review of them.
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get u some spray adhesive and some foam mattress padding at walmart. 18 gauge wire would be fine from xover to components.
Thanks for the suggestions! I also just saw this in the info thread over on DIY's forums (not sure how I missed it earlier):

Stuffing

Use fiberglass insulation or pillow polyfill to line the cabinet walls. There are other available materials such as Owens Corning 703, denim insulation, open cell foam, etc. If you're not sure, use the guts of a cheap pillow. Line it on the interior of the cab using staples or spray adhesive or some form of attachment. Keep it clear of the ports and the basket area of the woofer. You don't want any getting tangled in the woofer.
For the mids chamber, you can stuff it much more full. Even if the entire chamber consists of stuffing with just a little space behind the mids, that's good.

Last edited by Chipless; 02-02-2016 at 05:28 PM.
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post #5 of 122 Old 02-02-2016, 05:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Thinking about getting some of this with spray adhesive, thoughts?

Owens Corning Kraft Faced Insulation
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post #6 of 122 Old 02-02-2016, 06:36 PM
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Very interested in seeing the bamboo cab assembled. I don't think I have yet.
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post #7 of 122 Old 02-02-2016, 07:00 PM
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Don't over spray the glue and get it on the outside!! I've always just used the wood glue to stick the stuff to the inside walls.

Also, you don't have to cut the gasket tape in pieces to get around the edges of the waveguide, it will bend around them pretty easily.

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post #8 of 122 Old 02-02-2016, 07:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chipless View Post
Thinking about getting some of this with spray adhesive, thoughts?

Owens Corning Kraft Faced Insulation
This is the wrong type. You want UNFACED insulation. If you follow the link you provided and scroll down there is an illustration of faced vs unfaced.

I have used the spray adhesive with the foam sheets and it works fine. It was 3M brand general purpose adhesive. I haven't used it with insulation, maybe somebody else could give you some advice on that.
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post #9 of 122 Old 02-03-2016, 04:06 AM
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Here's the denim insulation and keep it away from the ports.

http://www.homedepot.com/b/Building-...n/N-5yc1vZbvev


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Here's the denim insulation and keep it away from the ports.

http://www.homedepot.com/b/Building-...n/N-5yc1vZbvev

I liked using the denim in my 1099's because it's easy to work with and doesn't itch. I found it necessary to still wear a mask while I was working with it though because it puts off all kinds of tiny airborne fibers; not fun to breath.
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post #11 of 122 Old 02-03-2016, 08:35 AM - Thread Starter
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Great info! Thanks to all who have contributed thus far! I had originally thought that the faced insulation would make it easier to apply to the inside of the cabinets, since it has backing on one side allowing for even contact with the interior of the cabinet. Howevever, the denim seems to be the most popular choice, so I ordered a 6-pack of 16"x48" rolls. I am guessing this will be more than enough, but please chime in if I'm wrong.

Also, I will attempt to use wood glue to attach it first, and then go to spray adhesive from there.

Thanks again! I will post pictures soon of the bamboo cabinets.
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Quote:
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I am guessing this will be more than enough, but please chime in if I'm wrong.
I used 6 rolls (a case) between my two fronts. Granted, my cabs are quite a bit bigger than standard, but I was surprised at how quickly I went through it. And that's not even accounting for using polyfill in the mids/CD chamber with only a small piece of denim filling the very back of the space.
You may be fine with one case for all 3 standard size cabs if you plan on stuffing the mids chamber with polyfill.
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@Chipless glad to see you are getting the 1099's moving! I used the denim insulation for mine (LCR) and only needed the six-pack from HD to get the job done. But you do want to be careful about planning the use of the stuff and not ending up with too much scrap. Since you've heard my setup, I think you would agree that the denim did the job!

Have fun with the build.
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post #14 of 122 Old 02-16-2016, 11:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Just unpacked the first of the bamboo cabinets, and I am pleased to say that they look even better in-person.



Now that the denim insulation has arrived, along with the binding posts, the build can finally begin!

Well, it can begin after asking some very basic questions, so please bear with me as I am a bit paranoid of messing something up that is irreversible or costly.

1) What is the best and easiest way to mount the XOs inside the cabinet? Which spacers are people using?
2) Where is the best location to mount the XO (given a left, center, and right 1099)?
3) Where exactly should I drill holes in the partitions that separate each chamber (i.e. center, corner, back center, front center, etc)?
4) Do I need to seal the hole with some type of gasket after running the wires through the partition? If not, do I drill a hole just large enough in each partition to run the wires and leave it at that?


Thanks for the help! I realize these are really basic questions, but better safe than sorry.
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Quote:
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1) What is the best and easiest way to mount the XOs inside the cabinet? Which spacers are people using?

I used some nylon spacers. Glued to back of XO board and then screwed through to mdf of speaker. http://www.homedepot.com/s/nylon+spacers?NCNI-5
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Originally Posted by Chipless View Post
2) Where is the best location to mount the XO (given a left, center, and right 1099)?

Horizontal in center chamber bottom toward rear. Vertical in same chamber on bottom toward rear.
Quote:
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3) Where exactly should I drill holes in the partitions that separate each chamber (i.e. center, corner, back center, front center, etc)?

You will need to drill holes for the 10 inch woofers through both braces to each woofer. Where does not matter as long as you can hook the wires from XO to woofer.
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4) Do I need to seal the hole with some type of gasket after running the wires through the partition? If not, do I drill a hole just large enough in each partition to run the wires and leave it at that?

I sealed all my drill holes once I knew I would have enough wire to connect to woof from XO board with PL adhesive, but any glue, or caulk will work as long as it will seal the hole.
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post #16 of 122 Old 02-16-2016, 03:13 PM
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I love my bamboo cabs also. I have mine all complete and will also post some pics soon. Good luck with your build, oh and don't forget to pre drill your holes for all your drivers first so you don't crack or split the bamboo.
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post #17 of 122 Old 02-16-2016, 05:20 PM - Thread Starter
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I love my bamboo cabs also. I have mine all complete and will also post some pics soon. Good luck with your build, oh and don't forget to pre drill your holes for all your drivers first so you don't crack or split the bamboo.
Thanks for the heads-up! I was wondering about that. Did you just use a standard drill bit to pre-drill? If so, what size did you use?
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post #18 of 122 Old 02-16-2016, 10:09 PM
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Assembly tips......

http://www.diysoundgroup.com/assembly-tips.html

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post #19 of 122 Old 02-17-2016, 06:02 AM
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I like sticky back velcro for securing crossovers.
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post #20 of 122 Old 02-17-2016, 07:52 AM
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man those look beautiful
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post #21 of 122 Old 02-17-2016, 03:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Erich, I wasn't sure if drilling bamboo is any different than normal hardwoods: I've never worked with bamboo before. Sounds like I don't have much to worry about.

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I like sticky back velcro for securing crossovers.
That's a very simple, solution, great suggestion!
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post #22 of 122 Old 02-18-2016, 08:51 AM
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Just unpacked the first of the bamboo cabinets, and I am pleased to say that they look even better in-person.



Now that the denim insulation has arrived, along with the binding posts, the build can finally begin!

Well, it can begin after asking some very basic questions, so please bear with me as I am a bit paranoid of messing something up that is irreversible or costly.

1) What is the best and easiest way to mount the XOs inside the cabinet? Which spacers are people using?
2) Where is the best location to mount the XO (given a left, center, and right 1099)?
3) Where exactly should I drill holes in the partitions that separate each chamber (i.e. center, corner, back center, front center, etc)?
4) Do I need to seal the hole with some type of gasket after running the wires through the partition? If not, do I drill a hole just large enough in each partition to run the wires and leave it at that?


Thanks for the help! I realize these are really basic questions, but better safe than sorry.

NOW THAT'S A BEAUTY... For size comparisons is that a TWIN or Full bed??
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post #23 of 122 Old 02-18-2016, 02:50 PM
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I know you guys love those things, but hopefully no one is sleeping in the same bed with their 1099's.

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post #24 of 122 Old 02-18-2016, 07:55 PM
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Very nice, love the bamboo.
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post #25 of 122 Old 02-26-2016, 08:21 AM - Thread Starter
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NOW THAT'S A BEAUTY... For size comparisons is that a TWIN or Full bed??
It is neither a twin or a full, it's a queen size bed, so these speakers aren't small by any means, but honestly, they don't look too imposing either.
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post #26 of 122 Old 03-02-2016, 06:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Just finished up the center channel, but I don't think the mid drivers are working. Should I be able to feel them move during playback? They don't seem to be moving at all, and when I place my ear next to them, I can't tell if I'm hearing the tweeter or the mids. Can someone please suggest a frequency to play back through the speakers in order to tell if the mids are in fact working?

Thanks!
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post #27 of 122 Old 03-02-2016, 07:56 PM
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Just finished up the center channel, but I don't think the mid drivers are working. Should I be able to feel them move during playback? They don't seem to be moving at all, and when I place my ear next to them, I can't tell if I'm hearing the tweeter or the mids. Can someone please suggest a frequency to play back through the speakers in order to tell if the mids are in fact working?

Thanks!
Did you make the crossover or have it built? When I did the crossover for my Volt 6's I had sound issues. Once re-soldered the connections and cleaned them. Then fully covered them in solder properly they worked great. not sure if this is your issue but might give you a starting point.
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post #28 of 122 Old 03-02-2016, 07:58 PM
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You probably won't feel them moving much if their chamber is sealed off 100% from the woofers. But if you are playing at pretty high volumes and touch the cone, you should be able to feel some type of vibrating.

Do you have the mids wired up correctly? I don't know if MTG90 builds the inverted polarity into the crossover board he assembles, or if you have to do it after the crossover.

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post #29 of 122 Old 03-02-2016, 08:01 PM
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1KHz should do it,

You can also stuff a wine cork/rubber plug in the horn (don't hit the compression driver!) then put your ear up to the mids. Generally speaking, you won't be able to see mids "move", I have 20 of them in a line array crossed at 350Hz and they don't move even with 200 watts blasting along.

The other thing to look out for is if one of the mids is out of phase with the other one, they will cancel each other out.

Just remember, this is the free education you get with DIY--so enjoy your education. Good luck!
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post #30 of 122 Old 03-03-2016, 08:01 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Did you make the crossover or have it built? When I did the crossover for my Volt 6's I had sound issues. Once re-soldered the connections and cleaned them. Then fully covered them in solder properly they worked great. not sure if this is your issue but might give you a starting point.
Thanks for the suggestion. I had the crossover built by MTG90, so I am guessing it's probably the way I wired the drivers to the crossover or attached the wires to the drivers themselves. The tweeter and woofers are definitely working, so that's a start.

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You probably won't feel them moving much if their chamber is sealed off 100% from the woofers. But if you are playing at pretty high volumes and touch the cone, you should be able to feel some type of vibrating.

Do you have the mids wired up correctly? I don't know if MTG90 builds the inverted polarity into the crossover board he assembles, or if you have to do it after the crossover.
Thanks for the info Erich! I am pretty sure MTG90 builds the inverted polarity into the crossover board, but I should probably verify that. I used this as my wiring guide to go from his crossover to the drivers:


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1KHz should do it,

You can also stuff a wine cork/rubber plug in the horn (don't hit the compression driver!) then put your ear up to the mids. Generally speaking, you won't be able to see mids "move", I have 20 of them in a line array crossed at 350Hz and they don't move even with 200 watts blasting along.

The other thing to look out for is if one of the mids is out of phase with the other one, they will cancel each other out.

Just remember, this is the free education you get with DIY--so enjoy your education. Good luck!
Great info all-around! My plan is now to finish the remaining left and right 1099s, and then take measurements of each speaker individually. My logic is that the odds of me screwing up all three speakers are fairly low haha.

I will update once I have measurements, and then once things are fully functioning, I will update this build thread with all the pics I took along the way.

Thanks again for all of your help and patience!
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