Hey guys,
I am currently embarking into the world of JBL Pro Cinema speakers. Of course everything costs more when you live on the biggest island in the world...
So I bought a used 2242HPL from an ebay seller in the US and it is on it's way to me currently. I will be building a 4645C clone with it. Works out about a quarter of the price of buying a full 4645C here in Australia. (And eliminates an 8 week lead time too).
My question relates to the 4645C box. I put the driver parameters into WinISD and ran the sim. However the 225L net box volume and port dimensions don't really work out to the 25Hz port tuning as stated in the PDF: http://www.jblpro.com/pub/cinema/4645c.pdf
I input the 225L (8cu ft) and a 8" port diameter stated in the PDF, and it spits out a 54.13cm (21.31") port length? When in this thread: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/233622-diy-jbl-4645c-2.html the guy actually measured the port in the 4645C and it is 7.25" to 7.5" internal diameter only 12.5" long. This works out to about a 28Hz tuning? Am I missing something? Or is the 4645C port not actually tuned to 25Hz?
winisd can overstate the tuning frequency by a bit. known issue.
josh measured that cab to have a tuning frequency of 26hz or so, as that is about where the impedance is at a minimum.
if using one sub, ~25hz is probably a decent tuning.
if using two subs, ~22hz may be a little better.
if using four subs, ~18-20hz may be a little better.
just a tradeoff in excursion constrained max output and extension, so it kind of depends on personal playback preference.
Thanks LTD. If that is a known issue then it makes it a little hard to get it right when designing any sub doesn't it. *sigh*
I will just have one to start with so will go with the 25Hz tuning. I will go with the manufacturers dimensions then and hope that it is right.
I have two Dayton HO18 martycubes at the moment. I know the JBL won't go as low, but it has the punchiness that the Daytons seem to lack. I am willing to trade extension for punch.
Thanks LTD. If that is a known issue then it makes it a little hard to get it right when designing any sub doesn't it. *sigh*
I will just have one to start with so will go with the 25Hz tuning. I will go with the manufacturers dimensions then and hope that it is right.
I have two Dayton HO18 martycubes at the moment. I know the JBL won't go as low, but it has the punchiness that the Daytons seem to lack. I am willing to trade extension for punch.
On a side note, my mains were planned to be JBL 3677's. However that is getting less and less likely as the cheapest price per unit I was able to find locally was $1400ea. Now that is not horrific or anything. It is just a smidge out of my possible price range.
However, this is the DIY forum. I have been trying to find some second hand drivers, horns and crossovers from the US and building some myself. This seems to be the only option that may be more reasonably priced for me. However sourcing all of the components at once is a nightmare! (If someone here wanted to pull apart some used 3677's and ship the components to me that would amazing!)
Alternatively, I am going to be auditioning these this afternoon: http://www.krix.com.au/fanatix.html. Krix is a local company that supplies commercial cinemas around the world. My only concern (without hearing them) is that they utilize a 10" driver (compared to the 15" of the 3677), and a fabric dome tweeter?? with waveguide. (My concern was sending a large amount of power to a dome tweeter).
I asked why not a compression driver like the JBL's and Krix's commercial cinema range, and they told me this: - Often the metal dome (titanium) tweeters are actually not as sensitive and that reduces the effective power handling.
- Power handling is more related to the voice coil dimension (not the dome) and also if it is ferro fluid cooled.
- Our tweeters have both high sensitivity and are ferro fluid cooled. The waveguide also gives more power handling due to the improved sensitivity.
They are a great company and have a strong reputation so I don't want to pre-judge. I will let you know my thoughts after the audition...
They do sell their commercial cinema stuff if you have the room. I live 5mins away from Krix and tend to listen to most of the commercial stuff. You can always build a fusion 15v2 or similar from DIYsoundgroup also.
Midbass is the thing that really gets me so I'll be interested to see what the 10" drivers can offer. I haven't heard the 3677's but their reputation for midbass impact is hight. I'll try and get a quote on the Krix Pix as well. (Seems to be their base cinema speaker using a 15" woofer & CD?) DIYSG don't ship internationally they said?
Not hard to order parts from Erich and then have it shipped to your door. Not sure why he said they wont ship to OZ. I have bought from him before and he shipped to me just fine.
Anyway! I am now back from the Fanatix demo. It was set up in a reasonably treated demo room running through a NAD AV receiver with about 80W/channel. Let me first say that they are obviously designed to bridge the gap between typical hi-fi speakers being used for HT - and true cinema grade speakers. That part is obvious in retaining the fabric dome tweeter of a typical hifi speaker.
To be honest... They sounded exactly like what you would imagine a speaker as I have just described would sound like. The tweeter makes for easy listening and is non-fatiguing for sure. However it seems to be slightly outpaced by the 10" driver in the unit which I feel was much more sensitive driver just by listening to it. Unfortunately the 10" driver didn't deliver the IMPACT that I am looking for in my next LCR setup, nor the 'gravitos' in the vocals I love so they are not for me. However they are a well-placed speaker with a specific market and I think they are appropriate in their own right.
Looks like 15 inch + compression driver and no less for me now...
here is the 4722n response (orange) and the deltalite ii 2515 driver in 6 cubic feet tuned to 45hz (green).
that should provide the midbass response that you are looking for. with the 4722n you get a better horn, c.d., and two drivers (obviously) which is going to provide more sensitivity and more output. BUT, if that is not an option, the fusion 15 in a proper box should do you well. sensitivity is close, directivity is good, and output should be up in the 120db ballpark (where the drivers will be running out of excursion).
the stock crossover would work just fine with no modification. matt (mtg90) did a very nice job with it.
the deltalite ii 2515 is the woofer used in the fusion 15 speaker. I was simply suggesting a much larger cab to give a response with no eq that would be almost identical to the 4722n bass frequency response.
Thanks ltd. After considering all options, I have just placed an order for 3x 3677's and 4x 8320 for a 7.1 setup. Along with the sub, this should do me for a good while. I am really looking forward to the punch of such a setup. However they say it can be up to 8 weeks before I get it! Oh well. Good things come to those who wait.
However! I have just been sidetracked with the thought of retaining the current Martycubes with my Dayton 18HO's in them in order to play from about 30Hz and down where the JBL2242H can out of puff... Is is possible to use my MiniDSP 2x4 to do a 'crossover' at 30Hz to the two Dayton's?
My subwoofer setup for reference:
AV Receiver > Cleanbox Pro II > MiniDSP 2x4 (Output 1) > Behringer EP4000 > One Martycube per channel (behind screen wall)
MiniDSP (Output 2) > Behringer iNuke 1000DSP > 2xInfinity 1260W (in a single 25Hz ported box nearfield)
Any suggestions on how I can modify this setup to continue to still get sub-30Hz content? I am open to the thought of build one or two full Marty's for an even bigger improvement in depth. However I have a feeling that the two very different types of subwoofer systems (JBL & Dayton HO) may not play very nicely together. Am I wrong?
Just use two of the miniDSP outputs for the JBL subs and the remaining two for the Marty-subs. The miniDSP has all the tools necessary to optimize such a system. I am running two JBL4645B's with two Eminence Lab-12 diy subs with no issues.
Ok well, I've pulled the trigger. Despite the cringe factor of the price, I have just ordered 3x3677's and 4x8320's for a full JBL 7.1 pro setup. Phew! Just a little bit exciting... JUST A LITTLE!
Now my 2242HPL is in the country and all going well should be here in the next few days. I have to get the enclosure built asap for it.
So looking around, I have hit my second snag in that I can't find a 185mm diameter pipe (or similar) anywhere to use as a port! I have easy access to 150mm PVC pipe which I think I will just have to end up using. So to work out the port length, I am a little lost. Since LTD02 mentioned that WinISD is not all that accurate for port length in that it overestimates a bit, I am not really sure what to do.
I tried this calculator but it spits out a different result again.
My parameters are:
225L (7.95cu ft) net box volume
25Hz desired port tuning
150mm (5.9") internal port diameter
Checking the air velocity in WinISD with the 5.9" (150mm) diameter port.
With a HPF 4thO BW at 20hz, no EQ and keeping keeping power down so cone excursion stays under the 9mm Xmax (allows me 300W max before going over Xmax at 19Hz), I am getting a max velocity of 23.4 m/s peak.
Not ideal, especially after I add 3dB boost @ 25Hz as planned and lower power to 200W (to limit it to under Xmax) I am getting a 26.6m/s peak.
I don't think you will hear the port noise. It will be drowned out by the sound of a screaming wife and/or the sound of stuff crashing to the floor after getting knocked off the walls
Well 25m/s or under should be fine. You can always tweak the vent size more if you feel you need a lower speed but 25m/s and under I think will be just fine. Will this only be used up to 150hz?
This port size has about a 650hz resonance. So up to around 300hz Xo should be ok. But it becomes a balancing act also.
I know a few that have used them and many other things in their quest for audio bliss. I might try an M2 clone down the road. myself. JandS are the local dealers for most JBL things and they are just too dear to try everything I want to do from JBL
Great to see the driver arrived, you are in for a treat (in my obviously biased view). I am looking to clone a JBL Pro three way, in the early reverse engineering stage now. Will use the 2242 from the 4645B's for the LF (will be putting 2269's in the enclosure for the subs).
The 2242 is a great driver, that is why it will be to woofer in my three ways when I get to actually building them (will be awhile, they are my retirement from the Navy present to myself- hit the 20 yr time point in Sept 2018, retire from navy Oct 2018).
I plan on buying at least two more 4645's. They are really what I have been looking for. I realize I am missing the ULF, but it's just not as important to me as the 20 to 100 Hz range. Crazy, I was chasing the single digits for quite awhile and one day I just asked why.
Thanks for the link. I know what you mean about chasing digits. At the moment my quest is for full blown impact and that's it.
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