Official SpeakerPower amplifier thread - Page 2 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #31 of 224 Old 04-22-2016, 05:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lukeamdman View Post
SpeakerPower SP2-12000: Othorns w/21-IPAL, 0.7ohm per channel (dcr)
(2) SpeakerPower SP2-12000: dual-opposed sealed 21s, 1.5ohm per channel x4 (dcr)
Crest CC4000: Quad AE TD18H+, 4ohm per channel
Lab Gruppen IPD 2400: BMS 4594ND, 8ohm per channel
Crown XLS 2500: Active center (AE TD15M, Denovo DNA-360), 8ohm per channel
Behringer iNuke NU4-6000: Radian 5210 surrounds, 8ohm per channel
Just insane Luke, lol. Hope you have good neighbors! So what's next? I think you have things covered on the audio side of things (famous last words)....you going to do a projector next?

Would love to hear your system some day....I imagine if anything would liquefy organs using sound waves, it would be your ht
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post #32 of 224 Old 04-22-2016, 09:51 PM
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Official SpeakerPower amplifier thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by lukeamdman View Post
SpeakerPower SP2-12000: Othorns w/21-IPAL, 0.7ohm per channel (dcr)
(2) SpeakerPower SP2-12000: dual-opposed sealed 21s, 1.5ohm per channel x4 (dcr)
Crest CC4000: Quad AE TD18H+, 4ohm per channel
Lab Gruppen IPD 2400: BMS 4594ND, 8ohm per channel
Crown XLS 2500: Active center (AE TD15M, Denovo DNA-360), 8ohm per channel
Behringer iNuke NU4-6000: Radian 5210 surrounds, 8ohm per channel

How hot and/or loud does that amp get running .7 ohm?
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post #33 of 224 Old 04-23-2016, 01:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DotJun View Post
How hot and/or loud does that amp get running .7 ohm?

Myself and Josh have both measured the impedance of a 21-IPAL in an Othorn, and the lowest point is 1.1ohm at right about 27hz. With most music content though the resistance will be closer to 2ohm.


The SP barely ever gets warm, and I've only seen the fans spin up 2 or 3 times in the last 1.5 years I've been running it!
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post #34 of 224 Old 06-27-2016, 03:55 PM
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Figured I would just post here in stead of asking in countless emails, is the Sp2 6400 still available? And if so how much is it?

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post #35 of 224 Old 06-27-2016, 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by chrapladm View Post
Figured I would just post here in stead of asking in countless emails, is the Sp2 6400 still available? And if so how much is it?
No. There was too little demand for that version when the SP2-12000 cost just a little bit more.

BTW were you asking about the 4 x 700W amp? It is included in the new spec sheet. http://www.speakerpower.net/news.html
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post #36 of 224 Old 06-27-2016, 04:22 PM
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post #37 of 224 Old 06-27-2016, 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by SpeakerPower View Post
No. There was too little demand for that version when the SP2-12000 cost just a little bit more.

BTW were you asking about the 4 x 700W amp? It is included in the new spec sheet. http://www.speakerpower.net/news.html
Makes sense. I was just looking at a smaller amp so I didnt need another dedicated line was all.

Wait what, where can I find out more on this four channel amp? Price?

This is awesome news!!! I see that it also says 1300watts into 8ohm is that all four channels?

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Huge thanks for all these tests and real data Not.
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post #38 of 224 Old 06-28-2016, 03:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrapladm View Post
Makes sense. I was just looking at a smaller amp so I didnt need another dedicated line was all.

Wait what, where can I find out more on this four channel amp? Price?

This is awesome news!!! I see that it also says 1300watts into 8ohm is that all four channels?


Huge thanks for all these tests and real data Not.
This is probably a misprint. The 700W plate amps are rated for 350 W into 8 ohm.
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post #39 of 224 Old 06-28-2016, 04:33 AM
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Thanks.

I thought it would have been halved but wanted to ask. I hope the price is right because I can then have all the same brand of amps and they will all be silent.

......Ok just realized your talking about plate amps. I am talking about the new SP4 2800 rack mount four channel amp. 700watts x 4 at 4 ohm. That also says 1300watts in the 8ohm section. I will assume its a misprint and it is 350watts. Just very excited that there is now a full range from SP.

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post #40 of 224 Old 06-29-2016, 01:05 PM
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Amp choice advice?

Hi,

I'm building a subwoofer with a single 22" driver in a 6-7ft box for a 25 x 30ft living room. I seek your advice on a power amp. Either of the two below seem like a reasonable choice, but I have some questions.

The Behringer looks like a good unit, but seems design for pro audio, theater, bands, DJs, etc. Not really for home stereo. But at over $100 less, would it be as good or better than the Dayton? The rack mount provides the advantage of no power cord running across the floor, just a speaker cable. But doesn't seem to have an adjustable crossover?

The Dayton is $100+ more, and would require a power cord plus speaker cables, but does have an adjustable crossover and other desirable features.

From a strictly performance point of view, would either one offer much advantage, or be more suitable for my application?

Thank you for any input.

Bill

Behringer NU3000 iNUKE 3000 Watt Power Amplifier

Dayton Audio SPA1000 1000W Subwoofer Plate Amplifier
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post #41 of 224 Old 06-29-2016, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Zoltar@4200 View Post
Hi,

I'm building a subwoofer with a single 22" driver in a 6-7ft box for a 25 x 30ft living room. I seek your advice on a power amp. Either of the two below seem like a reasonable choice, but I have some questions.

The Behringer looks like a good unit, but seems design for pro audio, theater, bands, DJs, etc. Not really for home stereo. But at over $100 less, would it be as good or better than the Dayton? The rack mount provides the advantage of no power cord running across the floor, just a speaker cable. But doesn't seem to have an adjustable crossover?

The Dayton is $100+ more, and would require a power cord plus speaker cables, but does have an adjustable crossover and other desirable features.

From a strictly performance point of view, would either one offer much advantage, or be more suitable for my application?

Thank you for any input.

Bill

Behringer NU3000 iNUKE 3000 Watt Power Amplifier

Dayton Audio SPA1000 1000W Subwoofer Plate Amplifier
Why are you posting this question in a thread for another manufacturers amplifiers? The nu3000 is the better amp from the ones you've listed :/ Speakerpower has far better options available, but they're a good deal more expensive.
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post #42 of 224 Old 06-29-2016, 06:25 PM
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Why are you posting this question in a thread for another manufacturers amplifiers? The nu3000 is the better amp from the ones you've listed :/ Speakerpower has far better options available, but they're a good deal more expensive.
Excuse me all to hell. I'm new here and didn't notice this thread/forum was JUST for a certain manufacturer. I assumed "Speakerpower amplifier thread" meant Speaker power amplifier thread. And I've seen photos and mention of other mfgs' products.
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post #43 of 224 Old 06-29-2016, 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Zoltar@4200 View Post
Excuse me all to hell. I'm new here and didn't notice this thread/forum was JUST for a certain manufacturer. I assumed "Speakerpower amplifier thread" meant Speaker power amplifier thread. And I've seen photos and mention of other mfgs' products.
Well, welcome. If you're building a sub and looking for some advice on how to power it best, you should start a thread in the DIY forum about the build and ask there, it'll probably get the most responses.
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post #44 of 224 Old 06-29-2016, 06:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zoltar@4200 View Post
Excuse me all to hell. I'm new here and didn't notice this thread/forum was JUST for a certain manufacturer. I assumed "Speakerpower amplifier thread" meant Speaker power amplifier thread. And I've seen photos and mention of other mfgs' products.
While I am sorry your taking this so harshly it is always best to start your own thread, after you have done a search for your questions.

If wanting a plate amp have a look here. These are more affordable than the rack mount versions. But if you plan on powering more subs in the future just buy a SP12000 and be done. Buy once and your done.

There are always other options out there but for a plate amp I would only buy from SP.

And with this new four channel amp I may be buying only SP amps from now on. Just need to see the price
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post #45 of 224 Old 06-29-2016, 06:51 PM
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Thanks, Chrapladm, and Notyt. Not really taking the response harshly. Just don't like being chastised for something that's not really my fault. I thought about starting a new thread, but this one had a lot of talk about subwoofer amps, which I didn't see in any other thread. No biggie.
I have no doubt your Speakerpower amps are fine units. Just a tad out of my budget, especially when you consider $/watt. I'll look for another, more appropriate thread or forum.
Cheers!
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post #46 of 224 Old 06-29-2016, 06:59 PM
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I cant remember if someone mentioned this or not, but what are the capabilities of the DSP on these rack mounts?

I will most likely be using external DSP but wanted to make sure the information was covered here in this thread.
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post #47 of 224 Old 06-29-2016, 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by chrapladm View Post
I cant remember if someone mentioned this or not, but what are the capabilities of the DSP on these rack mounts?

I will most likely be using external DSP but wanted to make sure the information was covered here in this thread.
I believe earlier in this thread @SpeakerPower said the DSP was removed from the direct to consumer amps. I could be wrong.

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post #48 of 224 Old 06-29-2016, 10:55 PM
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I do believe there are HT versions that have simple DSP functions. I dont know if they are simple Hpass, Lpass 3band EQ or more or neither yet.

NM on the picture it states, Lpass, Delay Gain and LF adjust.
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post #49 of 224 Old 06-29-2016, 11:39 PM
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The SP4-1400-DP would be perfect for me. I have four 18" IB subs that are wired as a 2 x 4 Ohm load. 350watts/driver would bottom them out at about 8Hz. I also have a four 12" nearfield sub where the drivers can also be wired as a 2 x 4 Ohm load. Its just the cost. I'd been planning on getting two Crest CC1800's or one CC1800 and one CC2800. That was going to be a stretch but now the SP4-1400-DP looks freakin' awesome. It's just a lot of money. The SP4-1400-DP should do fine on a dedicated 120VAC 20amp line for home theater use, right?

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post #50 of 224 Old 06-30-2016, 02:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrapladm View Post
Thanks.

...I am talking about the new SP4 2800 rack mount four channel amp. 700watts x 4 at 4 ohm. That also says 1300watts in the 8ohm section. I will assume its a misprint and it is 350watts. Just very excited that there is now a full range from SP.
Cut and paste error! 350W/8 is correct. Price is $2150. On the web site now.
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post #51 of 224 Old 06-30-2016, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by krholmberg View Post
I believe earlier in this thread @SpeakerPower said the DSP was removed from the direct to consumer amps. I could be wrong.

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There is no user adjustable DSP in the Direct amps. Unless you count the Gain, Delay, EQ and Low Pass Filter knobs. The signal processing behind them is accomplished in DSP. But you can't change what the knobs do.
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post #52 of 224 Old 06-30-2016, 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by krholmberg View Post
The SP4-1400-DP would be perfect for me. I have four 18" IB subs that are wired as a 2 x 4 Ohm load. 350watts/driver would bottom them out at about 8Hz. I also have a four 12" nearfield sub where the drivers can also be wired as a 2 x 4 Ohm load. Its just the cost. I'd been planning on getting two Crest CC1800's or one CC1800 and one CC2800. That was going to be a stretch but now the SP4-1400-DP looks freakin' awesome. It's just a lot of money. The SP4-1400-DP should do fine on a dedicated 120VAC 20amp line for home theater use, right?

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The SP4-2800 is a rack mount amp with 4 x 700W/4. It will work fine from a 120VAC 20A outlet. $2150 http://www.speakerpower.net/store/p36/SP4-2800-DP.html

If you are looking for a less expensive alternative, you could buy plate amplifiers 2 x SP1-1400 at $699 each = $1398 But need to be mounted in the cabinet. Only 2 input channels instead of 4. But more controls. http://www.speakerpower.net/store/p35/SP1-1400-HT.html

Decisions Decisions!
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post #53 of 224 Old 06-30-2016, 09:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpeakerPower View Post
The SP4-2800 is a rack mount amp with 4 x 700W/4. It will work fine from a 120VAC 20A outlet. $2150 http://www.speakerpower.net/store/p36/SP4-2800-DP.html

If you are looking for a less expensive alternative, you could buy plate amplifiers 2 x SP1-1400 at $699 each = $1398 But need to be mounted in the cabinet. Only 2 input channels instead of 4. But more controls. http://www.speakerpower.net/store/p35/SP1-1400-HT.html

Decisions Decisions!
Do two of the 2 x 700w/4 plate amps really put out the same power as the 4 x 700w/4 rack mount amp?

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post #54 of 224 Old 07-01-2016, 01:53 AM
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Do two of the 2 x 700w/4 plate amps really put out the same power as the 4 x 700w/4 rack mount amp?

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I think the answer is Yes. As along as you don't run them so hard that they overheat.
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post #55 of 224 Old 07-01-2016, 02:40 PM
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" Bingo, two 120v lines plus a ground."

No, you have 1 (one) 240v circuit.
This is NOT a multi-wire branch circuit containing a neutral wire, it is a single outlet dedicated 240v circuit.






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Originally Posted by lukeamdman View Post
Yes, and that's exactly what I did.

I had already run a 30A circuit (10awg wire) for my Crest CC5500 amp, so I bought one of these breakers and used the white wire (neutral) for the other 120v "hot" wire. Bingo, two 120v lines plus a ground.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Siemens-3...230U/100002289

I also used this for the outlet:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/30-Amp-25...CCV3/100117946

However, if you have a 20A circuit, you could do the same with a 20A dual breaker.
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post #56 of 224 Old 07-01-2016, 03:02 PM
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Good follow-up post!

A small correction though, as per 2014 NEC 210.5 (C)(1)(a):
"Means of Identification. The means of identification shall be permitted to be by separate color coding, marking tape, tagging or other approved means."

In other words, re-identify the neutral as an ungrounded conductor.

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Make sure you only try this if you have a dedicated single outlet on it's own breaker. Most houses string several duplex outlets on one 20A breaker. All of them will have 240VAC on them if this mod is done and will blow up most 120V gear plugged into them. Also to comply with National Electrical Code the wires carrying 120VAC should be black or red, not white. But I have heard of worse things being done. Like lifting grounds!
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post #57 of 224 Old 07-01-2016, 03:06 PM - Thread Starter
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" Bingo, two 120v lines plus a ground."

No, you have 1 (one) 240v circuit.
This is NOT a multi-wire branch circuit containing a neutral wire, it is a single outlet dedicated 240v circuit.
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Good follow-up post!

A small correction though, as per 2014 NEC 210.5 (C)(1)(a):
"Means of Identification. The means of identification shall be permitted to be by separate color coding, marking tape, tagging or other approved means."

In other words, re-identify the neutral as an ungrounded conductor.
Yes, this is a single 240v circuit without a neutral, but it's still comprised of 3 wires.

1. 120v (hot) from one phase
2. 120v (hot) from the other phase
3. Ground

The point I was making is that from my dedicated 120v 30A circuit, I unplugged the white (neutral) wire from ground and moved it to to the other 120v phase. Per code, I had to put red electrical tape on each end of the wire to indicate the wire was hot.

Last edited by lukeamdman; 07-01-2016 at 03:43 PM.
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post #58 of 224 Old 07-01-2016, 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by krholmberg View Post
Do two of the 2 x 700w/4 plate amps really put out the same power as the 4 x 700w/4 rack mount amp?

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No. Each Sp1-1400 has 2 x 700W amps and costs $699. Buy 2 x SP1-1400 and you have the equivalent power of a SP4-2800.
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post #59 of 224 Old 07-01-2016, 05:38 PM
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And I will make the same correction again... you do NOT have 120v, you have 240v... this is coming from a single phase, 240v transformer, L1 and L2 and there is no 0v center tap or 'neutral' to give 120v... it is, and can only be 240v.

Also, your thought process of "Hot" can also lead to serious injury/death:
2014 NEC, Article 100 'Definitions':
"Neutral Conductor: The conductor connected to the neutral point of a system that is intended to carry current under normal conditions"....
meaning, that if the wire coming from the breaker or the 'ungrounded conductor' is "Hot" and the 'load' is connected, the neutral is also 'Hot'... such as, replacing a receptacle that has other receptacles downstream with a device plugged in and operating... if you disconnect the 2 neutrals on the receptacle, putting yourself in series with the neutral wires (not just the obvious ungrounded conductor)... serious bad things can/will happen!

I know how anal this sounds, and you probably know better.... but lots of people read these forums and naivety can get you hurt/killed.

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Originally Posted by lukeamdman View Post
Yes, this is a single 240v circuit without a neutral, but it's still comprised of 3 wires.

1. 120v (hot) from one phase
2. 120v (hot) from the other phase
3. Ground

The point I was making is that from my dedicated 120v 30A circuit, I unplugged the white (neutral) wire from ground and moved it to to the other 120v phase. Per code, I had to put red electrical tape on each end of the wire to indicate the wire was hot.

Last edited by rich121; 07-01-2016 at 05:53 PM.
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post #60 of 224 Old 07-01-2016, 07:32 PM
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And I will make the same correction again... you do NOT have 120v, you have 240v... this is coming from a single phase, 240v transformer, L1 and L2 and there is no 0v center tap or 'neutral' to give 120v... it is, and can only be 240v.

Also, your thought process of "Hot" can also lead to serious injury/death:
2014 NEC, Article 100 'Definitions':
"Neutral Conductor: The conductor connected to the neutral point of a system that is intended to carry current under normal conditions"....
meaning, that if the wire coming from the breaker or the 'ungrounded conductor' is "Hot" and the 'load' is connected, the neutral is also 'Hot'... such as, replacing a receptacle that has other receptacles downstream with a device plugged in and operating... if you disconnect the 2 neutrals on the receptacle, putting yourself in series with the neutral wires (not just the obvious ungrounded conductor)... serious bad things can/will happen!

I know how anal this sounds, and you probably know better.... but lots of people read these forums and naivety can get you hurt/killed.
There IS a center tap on residential power. The neutral is tied to it. From transformer "ends" you get +120V and -120V. Either hot to neutral gets 120V. Hot to hot is 240VAC. What Luke did is fine as long as the caveats in my email are observed.
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