Seos 12 FaitalPro Mag 12 Pro Audio Custom Build - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 44 Old 04-16-2016, 11:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Seos 12 FaitalPro Mag 12 Pro Audio Custom Build

Everyone I've been enjoying this subforum at AVS and wanted to post my latest project. I've done dozens of builds with audiophile raw drivers like Vifa, Morel, Dynaudio, Peerless and Dayton drivers, but having recently gotten back into speaker building wanted to try some of the great new pro driver options out there.

These speakers are solely intended for 2 channel audio.

I wanted to build something very loud, dynamic, transient and clean with flat response, home audio drivers sound good at reasonable volume levels but aren't very efficient and don't always have the fastest transient response or "attack".

Plus it will be a new experience and I'm sure to learn some stuff. =)

The Drivers

Initially I was thinking a build with the Seos 12, a decent horn driver, a 12" mid and 18" pro subwoofer. After spending weeks researching different drivers and options, I finally settled on the following:

Seos 12 horn with B&C DE250 compression driver



Dual Fatal 8FE200 8" in MTM configuration, final impedance 4ohms, price is right and they were well rates and had good response too, also the smaller drivers should reduce issues with lobing.



Magnum 12" Subwoofer from DIYSG, I nauseated over this choice the longest, I wanted 18" initially because well, they're freaking cool and I was really eying the B&C 18TBW100 but ultimately decided I really didn't need that much bass (I know, some of you are ROFLing right now), plus I can always build some bass modules later on if I want.

I was hesitant on the Mag 12 as I really wanted to use something with an accordion surround, I was down between the Kappalite 3012LF as it modeled really well and very close to the Mag 12, but advice from Erich put me over the edge.



Crossover/Amps

These will be active run off my miniDSP 4x10, compression drivers will run off an Adcom GFA-545II, mids off an Adcom GFA-555, subs off a GFA-5800.

Crossover points will be initially 1500hz and 120HZ but everyone will be REW'd and EQ'd

The Enclosure

I decided on a largish tower, OD are 50" tall, 15.5" wide and 15" deep.

Mids will see about 1.75ft in a sealed enclosure, they will go flat to 90hz, Subs will get about 3ft each with port tuning around 30hz with two 4" ports each.

Construction is heavily braced 3/4" maple plywood, bracing is 1/2" thick pine plywood.

I cut 1/2" dado grooves for the internal bracing, the bottom is only screwed in so I can remove it, that allows bracing panels to slide in from the front and bottom and stack in precisely how I need. I'll post more as it develops so you can see what I'm doing.

Bracing will be vented to maximize air space and rigidity.







I'm thinking of a 1.25" roundover on the front edges and possibly a 3/4" bevel on all other edges, I love the look of the exposed plywood layers.

Fun to note I have no CAD drawings, I literally do this all out of my head as a thought exercise and challenge, it takes an almost meditative focus (no distractions like someone talking to you) to keep track of everything and get it all right in one shot.

BTW I build all my speakers with this cheap and portable table saw, incredible piece of equipment if you're looking for a simple, accurate and cheap setup



More to come, I welcome any comments or feedback, Thanks!


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post #2 of 44 Old 04-16-2016, 11:24 PM
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Looks great.
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post #3 of 44 Old 04-17-2016, 07:45 AM
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Seos 12 FaitalPro Mag 12 Pro Audio Custom Build

I have that table saw and it was worth every cent!

The rack and pinion fence on it is super accurate. I just wish it could cut a bit longer pieces.

How did you cut the larger panels? Did you manage to extend the table somehow?

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post #4 of 44 Old 04-17-2016, 07:54 AM
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Off to a good start here! Looking forward to seeing the rest of the build.
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post #5 of 44 Old 04-17-2016, 08:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Seos 12 FaitalPro Mag 12 Pro Audio Custom Build

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Originally Posted by dtsdig View Post
Off to a good start here! Looking forward to seeing the rest of the build.


Thanks guys!

Yes this saw is great and the fence is fully adjustable, love it.

I rip down bigger sheets to manageable sizes with a Skil saw and clamping rip fence, I can cut a 4x4 sheet by myself accurately, but sometimes I'll have my 8yr old son help support the sheet as well.

I make longer cuts than 24" by subtracting from the longer length, I have considered making a table but our garage really isn't a work shop (yet =) spin break all Thai down after each project.

Last edited by jshadzi; 04-17-2016 at 09:22 AM.
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post #6 of 44 Old 04-17-2016, 10:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Seos 12 FaitalPro Mag 12 Pro Audio Custom Build

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Originally Posted by Javs View Post

How did you cut the larger panels? Did you manage to extend the table somehow?


Like this

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post #7 of 44 Old 04-21-2016, 09:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Some progress on the baffling.

This enclosure will be extremely well braced but will loose minimal space and gain minimal weight.

Final sealed volume for the mid enclosure will be about 1.6 cubic feet, should result in an F3 of about 100hz.

Subwoofer will be at 3.0 feet and will be tuned to 35hz.















All the panels pictured are glued up and drying currently, tomorrow I'll finish up the bracing for the subwoofer portion.





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post #8 of 44 Old 04-21-2016, 10:01 PM
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Wow! excited to see the end result!
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post #9 of 44 Old 04-22-2016, 03:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cubdenno View Post
Wow! excited to see the end result!


Thanks @cubdenno , me too!
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post #10 of 44 Old 04-22-2016, 03:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Another little update, finished bracing for the subwoofer section







Next I'll attach the bottom and fabricate the front baffle, flush mount the drivers and ports, then router the corners.


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post #11 of 44 Old 04-24-2016, 12:55 PM - Thread Starter
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All bracing finished and working on the front baffle, also got this Magnum 12" in from DIYSG and it's a beast!

Front baffle will be 1.5" thick.










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post #12 of 44 Old 04-25-2016, 08:18 AM - Thread Starter
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Got some work done on the baffles

Here I'm flush mounting the 3" port tube from the rear.



Flush mounted the Mag 12 to the frame for cosmetics, including the front gasket this flange is 3/4" thick









I threw a 1/2" round over on the back of the subwoofer opening.






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post #13 of 44 Old 04-26-2016, 07:37 AM - Thread Starter
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Got out to the garage last night for an hour, front baffle is coming along

Flush mounted both Faitalpro 8" mids



3/4" roundover on back of baffle to allow mids to breathe.



Front baffle/s as it stands, next step is to roundover the port openings




Started working on the flush mount for the Seos 10 horn, here is my plan. Initially make a flush cut around the outside of the horn with a 1/4" flush cut bit, that will created a negative ID pattern that is 1/4" larger than the horn per side. Then using that oversized pattern, do another trim cut using a 5/8" trim bit with a 3/8" bearing on it, which will create and undersized ID pattern exactly the size of the horn. Here is the start, more to come.






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post #14 of 44 Old 04-30-2016, 11:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Got a bunch done today, these guys are really coming together =)

First off I worked on flush mounting the Seos 10 horns...man flush mounting shapes like this is SO much more work than a round driver using a circle jig.

I went a different route than what I was planning before as this was much easier and well documented online. The pictures are sort of self explanatory, let me know if you have any questions.

First step is to affix the horn to a piece of material at least 1/4" thick. Here I used some 1/4" MDF I had laying around.

Put a round base on your router and perfectly center it with a 1/4" upcut bit installed. You're going to trace the horn with the router base, what this accomplishes is a perfectly scaled tracing of the horn but 1/4" bigger due to the diameter of the bit. Remember you have to use a centered round base so there is no variation in the tracing.



Now you're left with this negative. Attach the negative to another piece of material, this one should be 1/2"-3/4" thick so you can use it with the router pattern guide.



Put your centered router with round base in the pattern and run it around the inside, now you're left with an exact tracing of the horn plus 1/4" around the outside.



This is a pattern guide, I used a 3/4" which compensates for the 1/4" diameter of the router bit. The reason this works, 3/4" minus 1/4" = 1/2". 1/2"/2 = 1/4" which is the amount you need to take off the outside. As you can see the pattern guide is a little under 1/2" long so you want your material to be that thick.




Run your patter bit around the inside, as you can see I attached some material to the middle as well, this accomplishes 2 things. 1 - it holds the center down so that once the cut is complete it doesn't move around and cause any irregularities to your pattern. 2 - It supports the inside of the router base so you don't have any issues with it rocking and creating any irregularities with your pattern. You're making a router guide so it has to be as perfect as possible!



And this is the finished template positioned on the enclosure ready use. I recommend making the pattern nicely centered and square which will make it easier to center and position in it's final location once you're ready to use it.

Some other tips:

- Sand the inside of the pattern smooth once you're done, the router won't create a perfectly smooth surface and the smoother this is the better
- You'll find the final pattern will be tight, I recommend carefully sanding this down until the horn fits perfectly. Use a sanding block and a sanding drum in a drill and remove material in small amounts until it's perfect.



Test for to make sure



Using this bit set to .2" deep, this is a flush cut bit with a bearing on the top side, perfect for this type of pattern use.



And done



Test fit wala





Now that all the front baffle driver routing was done, I attached it to the enclosure



3" Port tubes glued into the baffle, you can see the inside entrance flare



From the front



And with 1.125" radius roundover



My fingers for reference



And making lots of dust, first lots of flush cutting, then 1.25" radius roundover on front baffle, back of enclosure got a .75" radius and other top edges .25" radius.

Come at me bro







Before roundovers



After and where things stand



Now lots of sanding and vacuuming!





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post #15 of 44 Old 05-01-2016, 01:55 AM
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That is pure wood working porn. I'm a big fan of plenty and detailed pictures. How much do you think each cabinet will weight once done?
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post #16 of 44 Old 05-01-2016, 03:38 AM
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Looks awesome so far. Care to elaborate and walk us through the details on how you constructed the Seos10 router guide for cutting the recess into the baffle for the Seos10?
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post #17 of 44 Old 05-01-2016, 07:50 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mashie Saldana View Post
That is pure wood working porn. I'm a big fan of plenty and detailed pictures. How much do you think each cabinet will weight once done?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tip24/96 View Post
Looks awesome so far. Care to elaborate and walk us through the details on how you constructed the Seos10 router guide for cutting the recess into the baffle for the Seos10?
Thanks guys, so glad you like it! I went back and added more detail, hope that helps, let me know if you need any further clarification!
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post #18 of 44 Old 05-01-2016, 09:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jshadzi View Post
Thanks guys, so glad you like it! I went back and added more detail, hope that helps, let me know if you need any further clarification!
That extra detail makes it even easier to follow. Now I need to buy some more pieces for my router.
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post #19 of 44 Old 05-01-2016, 09:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Got some more work done today after I snuck out to the garage =)

2 hours of orbital sanding and wood filler and these things are as smooth as a baby's butt, final pass with 220 grit. Then lots of vacuuming and cleaning.





Back in the garage waiting for some more work. Next step will be a recess in the back for binding posts, some "flying buttress" style feet and then keep for stain.

I'm mostly decided in red stain but still not 100%




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post #20 of 44 Old 05-01-2016, 10:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mashie Saldana View Post
That is pure wood working porn. I'm a big fan of plenty and detailed pictures. How much do you think each cabinet will weight once done?


Glad you like the detailed pics! I'm thinking they'll be about 130lbs each, pushing probably 90lbs now w/o drivers, I'll weigh them once they're done.
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post #21 of 44 Old 05-02-2016, 08:25 AM
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These look awesome!
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post #22 of 44 Old 05-02-2016, 08:38 PM - Thread Starter
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These look awesome!


Thanks!
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Great looking build, I especially like the round over on the ports instead of a precision port or something.
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post #24 of 44 Old 05-02-2016, 08:52 PM - Thread Starter
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Little more progress today!

Started on the flying buttress feet, made from 3/4"X1.5" solid maple.

I cut 4 12" pieces and cut each end at 60 degrees



Then I put a 1/4" roundover on each side



I then cut them to 7.5" long and sanded them smooth with 220. Then I put two 1/4" dowels in each one.



Then using some center punch reference tools, I made transfer marks onto the enclosure



Each foot was fixtured in place using this jig I made



Feet in place, I will stain them a different color then glue them on before poly goes on.



Also put a 1/2" recessed for the binding posts, there will be 3 pair each side.

Using a router template I made I positioned this on the cabinet then routered the area out





On the backside I added another layer for the binding posts to pass through and give sufficient thickness



Here is where they stand, I'll do a little touch up sanding and then she's ready for stain! Getting excited to hear these beasts!




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post #25 of 44 Old 05-02-2016, 09:02 PM - Thread Starter
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And a knuckle rap test to finish the day out =)



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post #26 of 44 Old 05-02-2016, 09:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Great looking build, I especially like the round over on the ports instead of a precision port or something.


Thanks for noticing! I used them (Precision Port) on one build and they were really bulky, also sort of flimsy and I wasn't happy with the fit and finish once installed, I definitely like this much better and should achieve the same performance.
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post #27 of 44 Old 05-03-2016, 10:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Got some staining done tonight, couple sneak peaks, will post more pics once drivers are installed which is after some poly and wiring =)










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post #28 of 44 Old 05-05-2016, 11:46 PM - Thread Starter
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Coming along, should be making sound tomorrow night or Saturday =)

Got binding posts installed and wiring going



All enclosure walls lined with egg crate foam



Additional stuffing




Got some 8" mids and Seos10 installed





Rubber feet installed



Completed pics coming soon! =)



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post #29 of 44 Old 05-07-2016, 01:14 PM - Thread Starter
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Did some final buttoning up last night!

Faitalpro 8" midrange



Internal binding post wiring, M6x1 nylock nuts with nordlock serrated washers



More damping







Bolting in the drivers



They are done and in my audio room, more pictures to come, I've been tuning them and they sound incredible!




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post #30 of 44 Old 05-07-2016, 01:18 PM
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You haven't applied poly to those yet have you? Just a word of caution that if you are trying to get them together just to listen to them you may never finish them! I have a set of TD10 speakers that I still haven't finished after 2 years cuz I've been using them.
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