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post #31 of 102 Old 06-02-2016, 09:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Awesome, thanks bimmaguy, that's perfect. It would make sense that Mark probably provided exact (caliper measured?) dimensions. A littl extra wiggle room is probably a great idea.

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Originally Posted by bimmaguy View Post
Also, if you were lucky enough to get a post- Q2 2015 iNuke, the fans are pretty quiet and inoffensive. The DSP is awesome.
And thank you very much for this, I read recently that some iNukes were much quieter, but I didn't see an actual production date for when they changed. I haven't bought it yet, so now I know what to look for and I'll shop around until I can get one of the newer ones. If I recall, it wasn't even just a change to the OEM fans, but a significant revision to the internal components and design that lead to cooler operation. That's definitely something worth digging around for.

Edit: I was going to go for the non-DSP version and add a MiniDSP to do a proper Linkwitz Transform, I wonder if both models were upgraded. I think an email to Behringer might be in order. I'll report any findings.

Edit 2: Any links or info for your project? I'd love to see it.

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post #32 of 102 Old 06-02-2016, 09:54 AM
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Awesome, thanks bimmaguy, that's perfect. It would make sense that Mark probably provided exact (caliper measured?) dimensions. A littl extra wiggle room is probably a great idea.



And thank you very much for this, I read recently that some iNukes were much quieter, but I didn't see an actual production date for when they changed. I haven't bought it yet, so now I know what to look for and I'll shop around until I can get one of the newer ones. If I recall, it wasn't even just a change to the OEM fans, but a significant revision to the internal components and design that lead to cooler operation. That's definitely something worth digging around for.

Edit: I was going to go for the non-DSP version and add a MiniDSP to do a proper Linkwitz Transform, I wonder if both models were upgraded. I think an email to Behringer might be in order. I'll report any findings.

Edit 2: Any links or info for your project? I'd love to see it.

A) Glad to help. Yes, they also changed the fan, from what I understand, to a lower CFM quieter model. I've got mine within 6 feet and don't notice noise.


B) MiniDSP is definitely the better option, as you cannot do a proper LT with the 6000DSP. Also, you cannot set a PEQ frequency lower than 20 with the 6000DSP. However, you're adding one more link in the chain and two more lines, therefore more chance of interference or connection issues. I was scared off doing that for my project for these reasons. I might not know what I'm missing, but I'm over the moon with the adjustability afforded by the DSP on my amp. also get strong signal down to 2 hz, demonstrated by excursion. (I use 3 hz to double-check polarity )


C) Man, I wish I knew how to properly link a thead here...


High fiber UXL build


Hey, it worked!
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post #33 of 102 Old 06-02-2016, 01:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Very good to hear that the new models are quiet enough to go unnoticed from that close. I was already planning to locate mine behind the screen wall (because it's so damn fugly), and I was considering slapping on some 80mm - 120mm fan adapters and just letting the rear overhang whatever shelf it sat on (they would look like rocket boosters!).

I've been interestid in LTs for a long time, and now that I finally have the chance to run one on some seriously capable subs, I think I've decided that that's the way to go for me. I have no doubt I could use the DSP model and get it sounding just as good with some PEQ, since I have modeled both in WinISD to similar effect, but I feel like the LT is the "right" way to go for me. You're getting 2Hz content!? Wow.

I did search your posts and found your build, very cool subs and nice work. Seeing other projects really makes me want to get going on my own.
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post #34 of 102 Old 06-02-2016, 05:25 PM
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Admittedly, if you can, tucking the iNuke out of sight is the best option. It's a pretty wrangly bastard. (Why won't they paint it black?)


In terms of fan noise, it is slightly less offensive than the 230mm fan I have on top of my AVR blowing air on the bottom of the iNuke (speed-adjustable laptop cooler) which is rated as one of the quietest. [Apparently the bottom of the case is the heat-sink. I found a sharp increase in temperature in the space (4 inches or so) between my AVR and iNuke, and decided to use a fan to actively cool the area. Worked great!]


I guess it will depend on the noise-floor in your theater. I find a PS3 (latest version) and PS4 are much noisier and more grating. YMMV! Try the amp before you buy any mods. I was dead set on doing a fan mod similar to yours until I got to use it in person. Many of the stories on the internet (that gave me the concerns) are either really overblown, or have to do with the earlier model maybe? I don't have any prior experience with pro amps or Behringer stuff.


BTW- I was also dead-set on doing the ULF mod on my iNuke, but I have good solid response down low without it. I read in forums that there was severe roll off below 20 hz, I can confirm that is not the case. I have the performance I wanted, and I still have a warranty!


Also bear in mind that the graph you see on WinISD will not tell you even a little bit about the response in your room factoring room gain. I don't need any boost down low in my little closet, I need a slight cut below 30 hz (by my ear*) to have flat response! 18" subs are pretty big and do better than anything I've ever experienced in my home down low. The UXLs are pretty good 18s, too, especially efficiency-wise.


I'll be really interested to read about your results with the miniDSP. I really want the unbalanced to EQ my commercial subs, but I've heard it's nothing but trouble with hum and noise. The balanced is supposed to be OK.


Thanks very much for the compliment, great luck with your own project.

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post #35 of 102 Old 06-02-2016, 07:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Yeah, I think it's by far the ugliest amp money can buy right now.

"Try it before you mod" is good advice, and I think I'll take it. We aren't starting to even frame the basement until fall/winter, so depending on their arrival, I should have lots of time to experiment with these in the living room before they have a real home. After they get to their final location I'll be able to take measurements and see what needs to be done. The room will be small, so I might not even need much EQ.

That brings me to the MiniDSP. I'll wait till the theatre is done before getting that too, likely. Never know what the in room might sound like. I hadn't heard that about the unbalanced version, so it looks like I have some reading to do.

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post #36 of 102 Old 06-03-2016, 07:27 PM
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No apologies necessary LTD02! But thanks for the explanation, now it makes sense.

So theoretically, on a cold breaker under the right conditions I could be pushing about 1,600wpc (if demanded) for peaks of around 15 seconds... I think. I'll still stick with a 20a breaker for the subs, but now I understand how even a 15a works for most people.

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Yes, for a cold breaker. As the average current rises, so does the temperature of thermal trip mechanism, in effect lowering the trip threshold. There are breakers that so not behave this way, but that is another can of worms. The take away is that if you want to hit maximum peaks, the the amp should be by itself on the breaker.
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post #37 of 102 Old 06-06-2016, 08:11 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks BeanAnimal. For my purposes, I think that's about as technical as I'll need to get. I really doubt I'll be pushing a 15A breaker to the limits in this setup, but it's just as easy to run a 20A at this point, so I might as well just do it to be safe.

I have the Monoprice and Parts Express orders in, so I think after a trip to Home Depot and WalMart, I should have the supplies needed to start building (except the drivers of course). We'll see if I can make any time in the next few weeks.
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post #38 of 102 Old 06-07-2016, 10:11 AM
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Well, I'm glad I didn't go for the miniDSP. Just got a newsletter announcing the miniDSP HD, a new model in the lineup. More processing power, and better audio sampling rate. Some pretty cool toys, I might just take the plunge on that one once I've seen a few reviews. Waiting usually pays off...
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post #39 of 102 Old 06-07-2016, 10:38 AM - Thread Starter
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I happened to pop by the MiniDSP page the other day to check things out and noticed the HD version. I didn't read extensively, but it seemed like that one was more geared toward heavier tasks like room correction. It's not a huge difference in price though, so maybe it would be able to support more individual PEQ filters with less strain, so it seems like it might be the smart model to get if you're in the market.

I think I'll probably run my new subs without EQ initially while they're upstairs in the living room, but if I get a day to play around I could hook up the old BFD 1124p to apply a few simple filters.

In other good news, it looks like Mark is moving right along with production, and I see that he's recently been invoicing people for finished drivers. Hopefully it won't be too long until mine comes up.
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post #40 of 102 Old 06-07-2016, 12:00 PM
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Hey! Really happy to hear things are moving right along for you. That's great news.


I figure the EQ and all the control afforded by it are the "secret sauce" that make the biggest differences between a "real man's sub" and a "DIYers sub" (the BIG Mac). Messing around with EQ filters by ear is endlessly entertaining to me, and if you ever wanted to go full-on measurement mics or LT or REW auto-adjustment the miniDSP would be the way to go. I still am likely to upgrade to the miniDSP eventually and bypass the DSP on my amp just to get access to all the cool features I could only dream of previously. I guess it depends how much you like to micromanage!


I just really need to get off my butt and buy a measurement mic. I actually have several adjustable filters even on my AVR that I can't manipulate properly without measurement equipment. Unfortunately, every time I start to get close to pulling the trigger, something happens, like an exchange rate of $0.65, and a few days ago my car got broken into.

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post #41 of 102 Old 11-03-2016, 08:30 AM - Thread Starter
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Just a very small update, since this has been dead for a while. I'm still waiting for the drivers, but I see occasionally that someone else is getting theirs, so I'm confident Mark is making progress.

I did order some of the incidentals... cables, connections, etc., and should have just about everything I need for the build when the subs are finally ready. There has still been no progress in the basement, so I have plenty of time before I'll need them. This project is still happening, just on hold until the drivers are ready. Stay tuned.
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post #42 of 102 Old 02-23-2017, 07:47 AM - Thread Starter
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** PROGRESS ** The build actually starts here.

OK, so after a lot of calculation, speculation, and general sitting around doing not much, I've finally made some progress with real tangible results.

My drivers came in (boy, are they heavy!) and arrived in good condition. My junior inspector seemed excited to get them... but it turned out he just wanted to play with the packing material. They sat around in their packing for quite a while, because I didn't have an amp for them, MDF for them, or time to actually DO anything with them. Eventually I picked up an iNuke 6000 (non-DSP), and hauled out the MDF sheets I had buried in the garage, and got to work.

Where to start? First impressions I suppose. Until now I have owned an original 15" Tempest (which was a monster, especially to me, back in 2006 or so). These things are straight up beasts in comparison. The carbon fiber cones and caps are beautiful, and the big fat surround is impressive, to say the least. The magnets are huge, and did I mention they're HEAVY? I know there are bigger drivers out there now, but these are still right up there. Build quality seems very good, and I found no issues with a visual inspection on arrival. @mrogowski does great work, and I am very excited to have 2 of his exceptional drivers in my theatre.

I will be using Speakon connectors, so to get any kind of a signal to the subs, I had to put together the enclosure connection terminals. A little bit of soldering, and some quick and dirty heat shrink, and they were ready. My senior inspector enquired about modifying some settings before going off to bed, and had his request denied. Lol. When I did have the opportunity to set up a quick test with the iNuke, everything worked the first time out, which is always nice. In free air, sitting on the floor, with limited power after the kids were in bed, my wife could still hear "Bass I Love You" from upstairs. I had a bit of hum at higher gain, but I'm not worried about that for now since the setup for the theatre will be completely different.
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post #43 of 102 Old 02-23-2017, 08:00 AM - Thread Starter
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Now that I knew I had working subs and amp, it was time to start the hard part and do some work. That didn't happen for another month or so until I had a morning off work with the kids at daycare. A week or so prior, I pulled out the MDF sheets I had and did a quick thickness test, and a rough cut with the circular saw to make the rest of the cuts more manageable on the table saw. Conditions hadn't improved much by the time I got to the rest of the cutting. I had less snow, but a lot of fog and periodic misty periods. I rigged up a little support system for the first cut on the larger panels, and got to making dust.

Setting up the saw and running all the same length cuts one after another makes things SO much easier. Then even if I make a mistake, at least I'm consistent and things will match up. By the end of the morning I had 2 nice piles of panels ready to go. I decided to make the inner baffle out of 3/4" plywood, to give the T-nuts something a little tougher to bite into with this heavy driver. The final subs should be about 20 x 22, which seems tiny when I look at them now, but I have no doubts they'll get the job done.
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post #44 of 102 Old 02-23-2017, 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by OJ Bartley View Post
Now that I knew I had working subs and amp, it was time to start the hard part and do some work. That didn't happen for another month or so until I had a morning off work with the kids at daycare. A week or so prior, I pulled out the MDF sheets I had and did a quick thickness test, and a rough cut with the circular saw to make the rest of the cuts more manageable on the table saw. Conditions hadn't improved much by the time I got to the rest of the cutting. I had less snow, but a lot of fog and periodic misty periods. I rigged up a little support system for the first cut on the larger panels, and got to making dust.

Setting up the saw and running all the same length cuts one after another makes things SO much easier. Then even if I make a mistake, at least I'm consistent and things will match up. By the end of the morning I had 2 nice piles of panels ready to go. I decided to make the inner baffle out of 3/4" plywood, to give the T-nuts something a little tougher to bite into with this heavy driver. The final subs should be about 20 x 22, which seems tiny when I look at them now, but I have no doubts they'll get the job done.
Good luck with your build, OJ!

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post #45 of 102 Old 02-27-2017, 08:05 AM - Thread Starter
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Good luck with your build, OJ!
Thanks bimmaguy!!

Still making progress when I get some time. I got to work on the baffles this weekend, and feel pretty good about the outcome. Maybe not 100% good... but at least 90%.

The first thing I did was clamp the 2 baffles together, use scrap MDF to make sure they were centered and wouldn't leave me with overhang, and then mark the centre on the smaller inner baffle. Then I drilled out a pinhole to use as a pivot for my router jig.



My jig is just a simple piece of smoked 1/4" plexiglass that I used way back on my original Tempest build, and have somehow managed not to lose, despite moving since then. We drilled and countersunk for the 3 mounting points on the router, and cut a hole in the middle. Then I just measure and drill the pivot holes as needed. In this case I think I went with 8 3/8" for the inner baffle, and 9 1/4" for the outer baffle. I set up a piece of 1/2" foam board to test with, since I haven't done this in about a decade.



I did notice some wobble, since the foam can't really hold the pin nail perfectly still, but I figured this was as much a conceptual effort as it was practical, and I just tried not to wiggle it too much. The inner baffle test piece seemed to go well.





The wobbles are evident, but the process went fairly smoothly, so I used that hole to continue on to the plywood inner baffle. That cut well, and was a pretty good fit. I probably could have gone about 1/64" smaller, but I'd say that's about as good as I can ask for without CNC help.



I cut out both baffles, and somehow had some variance, but they're both good to go.



Next I set up for the outer baffle, and again did a test on some foam board. Actually I wasn't 100% happy with the first cutout, so I did a second foam test, to try to keep the cutout a little tighter. I figured "I can always take more off, but I can't put it back on". So the foam baffle was just about perfect, and I moved on to cut the MDF.



Here's where the wobble came back to bite me. The cut looks good, but it's basically snug to the thick rubber gasket, and I can press fit the baffle holding itself up in place without any support. In this case I could have taken an extra 1/64" off, which would have been about perfect. Somehow I didn't take a pic of it in place, but here's my helper holding up the baffle.



Now I have to figure out how to shave sown the inside of the cutout a little bit. I already went at it by hand with some 80 grit, which took care of any little imperfections, but didn't make much difference in the overall fit. Is there an easy way to take a bit of material off? I don't want to buy any of those fancy sanding drum barrels, but I might be able to rig something up to chuck into the drill. I don't think either of my palm sanders will make much contact with the surface on this arc.

The other option is taking off that massive rubber gasket and just using some foam weather stripping tape or something around the inner baffle. Any thoughts on these gaskets? Are they recommended to use, or will something more generic work just as well?

The next thing I was blissfully unaware of is how tight my overall fit is, regarding the actual dimensions of the sub. I had planned for 20" width and 22" height. The width got reduced by about 1/8" during my panel cutting thanks to a sloppy cut (so I shaved down all the panels to match). When I fit the 2 baffles together, it's clear there's a gap at the sides.





The gap is small, actually a bit smaller than in the pic above, and it will be covered by where the side panels fit in, I just have to make sure there's room for T-nuts. I'll probably offset the mounting to account for that and hope it will be enough.

And that's about as far as I got over the weekend. Now I just need to decide if it would be better to trim down the inside of the outer baffles a bit or to remove the rubber gaskets from the drivers. Then I can figure out an assembly order and start gluing panels.

NOTE: I tried using the AVS gallery and directly inserting images into this post, instead of attaching them at the bottom. I always feel that it's better to see pics in order as the "story" unfolds, but MAN is that gallery a pain to use! It took me like 20 minutes just to upload the 24 images. I don't want to come back to this thread in 5 years and have all the images missing, which is the case with a lot of my old threads, so I'm avoiding external hosting. I might just go back to attaching after this lengthy undertaking though. The gallery interface is archaic and needlessly complicated, not to mention I could not find a batch upload for the life of me.
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post #46 of 102 Old 02-27-2017, 08:11 AM
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Great job! I like the fact that you used plywood instead of all mdf. I was thinking about using baltic birch plywood but it was going to be expensive when you add up all the cabinets.

Instead of using the gallery, you attach the images to the post. Initially, they will show at the bottom but then you can click on each image, capture its url and edit the post to embed the images within your text using the URLs just like you did with the gallery.

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NOTE: I tried using the AVS gallery and directly inserting images into this post, instead of attaching them at the bottom. I always feel that it's better to see pics in order as the "story" unfolds, but MAN is that gallery a pain to use! It took me like 20 minutes just to upload the 24 images. I don't want to come back to this thread in 5 years and have all the images missing, which is the case with a lot of my old threads, so I'm avoiding external hosting. I might just go back to attaching after this lengthy undertaking though. The gallery interface is archaic and needlessly complicated, not to mention I could not find a batch upload for the life of me.

My home theater
Speakers: 3 JTR 212HTR (LCR), 2 Jtr Single 8LP (S), 2 JTR Triple 12LF (SB)) , 4 Volt 10LX (Atmos)
Subwoofers: 10 Sealed UXL-18, 5 Crowson Shadow 8 transducers, 3 Buttkicker LFE
Display: JVC RS400
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post #47 of 102 Old 02-27-2017, 08:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Great job! I like the fact that you used plywood instead of all mdf. I was thinking about using baltic birch plywood but it was going to be expensive when you add up all the cabinets.

Instead of using the gallery, you attach the images to the post. Initially, they will show at the bottom but then you can click on each image, capture its url and edit the post to embed the images within your text using the URLs just like you did with the gallery.
Thanks Ahmed! (I really enjoyed your build, BTW). I saw a lot of people adding squares of plywood behind MDF baffles to give the T-nuts something more secure to bite into, and I just figured with 68lb drivers, I might as well make the whole inner baffle out of ply if it has that much more strength.

Thanks for the tip on the gallery too, I was going to try that next. My only problem with it is that I think doing it that way means scrolling through double the images when reading on a mobile device in Tapatalk. It certainly isn't the end of the world, just a little more scrolling. I'll give it a shot.
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post #48 of 102 Old 02-27-2017, 09:40 AM
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Plywood mounting is all I ever use. Honestly, don't bother with tnuts, a complete waste of time. If you ever need to take out the driver, rotate is a bit and go to town.

Blasting brown notes for 10 years and counting!

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post #49 of 102 Old 02-28-2017, 01:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N8DOGG View Post
Plywood mounting is all I ever use. Honestly, don't bother with tnuts, a complete waste of time. If you ever need to take out the driver, rotate is a bit and go to town.
thanks N8DOGG! I already bought the pretty looking kit with the T-nuts and cap head screws, but if it looks like its going to be too much trouble I can probably just predrill the ply and use something with a coarse thread. I don't plan on taking the drivers out, unless there's some problem down the road.
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post #50 of 102 Old 02-28-2017, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by OJ Bartley View Post
thanks N8DOGG! I already bought the pretty looking kit with the T-nuts and cap head screws, but if it looks like its going to be too much trouble I can probably just predrill the ply and use something with a coarse thread. I don't plan on taking the drivers out, unless there's some problem down the road.
If you don't use the tnuts , you don't have to pre drill plywood. Just screw it in. You only have to pre drill MDF.

Good luck, looks like a fun build.
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post #51 of 102 Old 03-20-2017, 09:01 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm still alive, and so is this project. It's been a few weeks of intermittent activity due to flippin' COLD weather and kid stuff, but I've slowly chipped away at things to the point where I feel like I can post again.

I managed to slightly enlarge the woofer cutouts successfully by reinserting the previous plug, screwed to a long board that I clamped into position on the baffle. This, after very careful measuring, gave me my exact centre again, and let me use the router jig to go around and take an incremental amount off the inside. It worked very well, actually. To save time and trouble, I picked up a flush trim bit and used it to copy the cutout to the second baffle. It was my first time using one and I was quite impressed.





Once I was happy with the fit of both the inner and outer baffles, I glued them together and used the stack of unbuilt enclosure panels to weigh them down because I thought this would be more uniform pressure than I'd get with clamps.





Next I mocked up a test fit of the first enclosure to check my cuts, confirm assembly order, and to measure for some bracing. I had some vague plans for bracing, but when I saw the actual dimensions I have to work with I scrapped them and just made some on-the-fly decisions. The sides will have 3 cross braces, top to bottom will have 2, and the piece that is in place in the picture below is how the rear panel ties in to one of the 3 lateral cross pieces. I think this should do the trick when I get it all set up. I didn't have zipties handy, so I made some handles for the woofer out of twine. I also decided to bail out on the T-nuts and threaded inserts, and to stick with screws, so I started gluing blocks on to the back of the inner baffle to give some more depth to bite into.







I went to see if HD carried any nice looking black cap head screws, which they didn't. I did see these though, which look interesting, assuming the integrated washer head is the right size for the woofer basket. If I go with these I might shoot them with a bit of black paint before sinking them. Any thoughts?

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post #52 of 102 Old 03-20-2017, 10:13 AM
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thanks notnyt, I have seen those, but PE is a big pain to order to Canada, and I want to get moving on these so I'm trying to buy locally. I think I'll pick up a pack of these and see how they'll look. I also have to keep reminding myself that these will be behind the screen wall and won't have to look perfect.
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post #54 of 102 Old 03-20-2017, 10:38 AM
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thanks notnyt, I have seen those, but PE is a big pain to order to Canada, and I want to get moving on these so I'm trying to buy locally. I think I'll pick up a pack of these and see how they'll look. I also have to keep reminding myself that these will be behind the screen wall and won't have to look perfect.
They should work fine.
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post #55 of 102 Old 03-21-2017, 06:49 AM - Thread Starter
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"When it rains it pours", I guess. I had some more time to put in work on the first cabinet, and glued up a second side (the top, in addition to a side, actually) as well as the remaining two "side to side" braces (sitting vertically now for glue-up. The side panel that is on top is just resting there to keep the 2 braces stable and square while they are glued at the "bottom" only. If I can continue to get a little in over the next few days I should be able to finish the first one by the weekend. But now that I just went and said that, and stated a date, guess what's going to happen...? LOL
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post #56 of 102 Old 03-23-2017, 06:52 AM - Thread Starter
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And I now feel like I've accomplished something. Enclosure 1 is assembled, and came out not too badly. There were definitely mistakes made, but nothing too critical. The first half of the enclosure came together REALLY nicely and I was astonished at how tight my edges and corners were joining up. I squared up and glued in my last braces, and was pretty happy with how they worked out.



The first noticeable mistake came when I was test fitting the final panels, and - oops! - I had measured and cut the braces for an inset panel instead of a panel that would be attached to the outside of the adjoining walls. No big deal, I was off by exactly a panel width, so I added some spacers to the braces. You can see the blocks up on top. Now it's a nice tight fit.



My next mistake was the order I chose to assemble. Basically at this point I was left with 2 side panels and the baffle to go together in one step (because of the stepped baffle I couldn't slide it in very well if 3 sides were closed in). I thought I could manage it not too badly with the 7 long clamps I had, but I really should have had 3 more. I made due, and got strategic about where clamps went, and then I used weight on the baffle when I ran out. I could have used a couple more to help pull a few corners into square a touch better, but it came out OK.



The final result from this morning's unclamping. It's not the prettiest, but it's solid. It will need a good amount of filling and sanding before I can think about finishing it, but at least I do feel like I got a good seal. Almost all of the interior corners had a fair bit of squeezeout, which I was able to run a finger over to complete most edges. I'll probably run a quick bead of something over a few of the final joints internally just to be safe.



And now I get to do it all over again! With the next one I'm going to start with the baffle, and work my way around a side or 2 at a time. That should help me to keep things tight, and not leave me gluing in 3 dimensions at a time. I'll probably just post the final when the next one is completed, since it will be more of the same.
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eng-399 and uniquepattern like this.
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post #57 of 102 Old 03-24-2017, 12:19 PM
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Another Lost Soul:

Mrs Bartley didn't know it, but she had married an addict.

"He told me he was going to build subwoofers. I figured that a man should have a hobby, and I even encouraged him. I didn't know what I was getting into."

"Once he finished the boxes, he took them to the theater and said he wanted to 'try them out'. There were these noises... Just thinking about it makes my teeth rattle. He was in there for hours. It started to get late, so I opened the door to tell him it was bed time. He was on his haunches, eating a raw fish. He hissed at me and said something about a 'precious subwoofer crawl'. I've never been so scared. I just ran."

"He kept playing 'Edge of Tomorrow' and 'Pulse' clips for days. A week later, he came out. His skin suddenly looked so grey. And the eyes... they were so empty. You could tell that even as he was talking, he was thinking of new ways to reach 5 hz at reference and LLT boxes. He couldn't stop thinking about that next fix."

"I haven't seen him for days. Last I heard he was doing a 'subwoofer crawl' down Yonge Street, trying to get money for the latest 32" sub.", his neighbor and FORMER best friend speculated. "I don't know anyone who uses AVS just 'recreationally'. Poor guy never had a chance."
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--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Subs are like pizzas: you get way more good stuff with the big ones.
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...uxl-build.html
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...-overture.html

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Quote:
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Another Lost Soul:

Mrs Bartley didn't know it, but she had married an addict.

"He told me he was going to build subwoofers. I figured that a man should have a hobby, and I even encouraged him. I didn't know what I was getting into."

"Once he finished the boxes, he took them to the theater and said he wanted to 'try them out'. There were these noises... Just thinking about it makes my teeth rattle. He was in there for hours. It started to get late, so I opened the door to tell him it was bed time. He was on his haunches, eating a raw fish. He hissed at me and said something about a 'precious subwoofer crawl'. I've never been so scared. I just ran."

"He kept playing 'Edge of Tomorrow' and 'Pulse' clips for days. A week later, he came out. His skin suddenly looked so grey. And the eyes... they were so empty. You could tell that even as he was talking, he was thinking of new ways to reach 5 hz at reference and LLT boxes. He couldn't stop thinking about that next fix."

"I haven't seen him for days. Last I heard he was doing a 'subwoofer crawl' down Yonge Street, trying to get money for the latest 32" sub.", his neighbor and best friend speculated. "I don't know anyone who uses AVS just 'recreationally'. Poor guy never had a chance."
LOL!

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post #59 of 102 Old 03-24-2017, 02:02 PM
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LOL!
Don't let it happen to someone you love! Here are some warning signs to watch out for:


- Check internet searches for terms like "biggest" "loudest" "local noise laws" etc.

- Sudden inquiries into bulk purchases of MDF

- Frequent interactions with police

- Wanting to remove the fence and "any obstructions within 60 ft" from the back yard

- Papers with scribbled squares and circles.

- Large quantities of large cardboard boxes in the basement or garage "until I've got the time"


"Mamas don't let your babies grow up to be bassheads..."
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Subs are like pizzas: you get way more good stuff with the big ones.
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...uxl-build.html
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...-overture.html
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post #60 of 102 Old 03-24-2017, 05:52 PM - Thread Starter
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It's like you're right inside my head! 😆

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