DIY subwoofer using JBL 2226h - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 19 Old 05-24-2016, 03:49 AM - Thread Starter
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DIY subwoofer using JBL 2226h

I have gotten 4 JBL 2226h subwoofers for free. 2 of them are in good shape but 2 need to be reconed. I am thinking of starting by building a box for 2 of them and seeing how I like that before going through the trouble of fixing the other 2. These will be replacing my 2x Premier Acoustic PA-120s.

I know this woofer isn't best suited for HT subwoofer duty but I got them free so why not. I am thinking about building a ~500L box with a 18Hz tune and a 18Hz high pass filter but I'm wondering how much power I can put through them.

Rated xmax is 7,6mm but as often is the case subwoofers have more to offer than the rated xmax and I'm wondering if anyone here has any idea on that.

Also if you have any better ideas as for box size and tune that would be greatly appreciated.
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post #2 of 19 Old 05-24-2016, 09:38 AM
 
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midbass module bro!

Those woofers will rape everyone they see as a MBM ported. 45hz tune. Dat dere chest slam knock you over.

Buy a proper 18" woofer and let it be what it is- a subwoofer. Those are good for a speaker design as the bottom woofer (very good actually) or for a midbass module in the 40hz-260hz regions. They will get really loud and sound great. I am not sure I would try to ask them to do 18hz though...
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post #3 of 19 Old 05-24-2016, 09:48 AM
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I don't recommend using the 2226's like this.

A midbass type alignment would suit them better.
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post #4 of 19 Old 05-24-2016, 10:35 AM - Thread Starter
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I realize that this isn't an ideal woofer but I can't make a MBM because I don't have room for it along with subwoofers. Also according to my model it will be better than the PA-120 subs I already have.

I don't live in the US so it costs me a lot more to get decent subwoofers because there is no one selling them here in Iceland and I would have to import them.
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post #5 of 19 Old 05-24-2016, 10:40 AM
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I have twelve of them all sealed.

Try that. All sealed. Small and will extend down deep. Just don't expect miracles out of four midbass drivers for subwoofer bass.
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post #6 of 19 Old 05-24-2016, 10:42 AM
 
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dude those 2226 sell for a good cost... sell them and grab a DS4.

I'd swap a DS4 to you for them from the states if I knew they were all tested and working great.

You could ebay them for about $150 each I bet. You won't be about of pocket much for a DS4 from SI, or something like that. It's a better subwoofer for 18hz. You could even seal it up and achieve about the same space taken in the room if you are limited on size.
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post #7 of 19 Old 05-24-2016, 11:03 AM - Thread Starter
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Why should I use the 2226h sealed rather than ported?

The red one is 2 woofers with 400W in 500L at 18Hz and a high pass filter at 20Hz, the blue one is 500L sealed with 4 woofers and 400W and the green one is 4 woofers in 500L tuned to 18Hz with 800W. By using an iNuke I should be able to eq the top end down and get pretty good output, is there anything I'm missing?
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post #8 of 19 Old 05-24-2016, 11:12 AM
 
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I would use it sealed because the box can be smaller- so it fits better, and you gain roll off under the tune (12db per octave vs 24db per octave) and it's relatively cheaper and easier to build and has high power handling and good sound quality. (this is about the sub)

The 2226 you should use ported. It's got less cone mass, more motor- and work well in that design- it's also higher efficiency, but the trade off is it's not going to go as deep- so using a larger ported box can extract more output on the bottom where it's the weakest. It's otherwise formidable at the rest.
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post #9 of 19 Old 05-24-2016, 11:17 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Parasite90 View Post
I am thinking about building a ~500L box with a 18Hz tune and a 18Hz high pass filter but I'm wondering how much power I can put through them.
100w in the 25-35Hz range, while response will be down 10dB at 25Hz. It's simply the wrong tool for the job.
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post #10 of 19 Old 05-24-2016, 03:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Parasite90 View Post
I don't live in the US so it costs me a lot more to get decent subwoofers because there is no one selling them here in Iceland and I would have to import them.
Those 2226 would make nice trade bait.
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post #11 of 19 Old 05-24-2016, 05:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Parasite90 View Post
Rated xmax is 7,6mm but as often is the case subwoofers have more to offer than the rated xmax and I'm wondering if anyone here has any idea on that.
Yes, they're Xmech is more like 25mm*, but distortion shoots well up beyond Xmax, so you could use them beyond Xmax, but they'll sound pretty awful.

Also, don't use aftermarket recones. Most are very poor compared to the factory units, and the couple of times I've done it the T/S parameters have changed.

* Because some stupid b**** singer in a band I was doing FOH for decided grabbing the mic and swinging it in large circles would be fun. When it struck the floor at speed I was standing beside one of the stacks and I thought the cones were going to be embedded in the grilles. They just missed them and the grilles were 25mm from the baffle.
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post #12 of 19 Old 05-24-2016, 06:29 PM
 
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Fix all 4 and sell them and get s proper sub.
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post #13 of 19 Old 05-26-2016, 01:22 AM - Thread Starter
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So I get that this isn't the best woofer for this kind of thing but everything I can order from the US at least doubles in price because of import duties and tax. Also I live in Iceland and we are only around 300.000 people and there isn't a big market for these 2226s here.

I'm wondering if there is any reason not to use them other than other subwoofers being better? My model looks good and it should be an upgrade from my PA-120s in both SPL and extension.
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post #14 of 19 Old 05-26-2016, 05:12 AM
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I think your best bet would be to make the ports removable so you can adjust the tuning. JBL Pro has a subwoofer that uses this driver (http://www.jblpro.com/www/products/i...5#.V0bmdMspCBY) BUT it is tuned to 40 Hz (which would be a MBM in AVS-land).

Start at 18 Hz like you modeled, then swap ports upwards in tuning until you get the extension and sound quality you are looking for. My guess it will be higher than the 18 Hz tuning, but experimentation is always better than speculation. I would rather have a solid 40 Hz sub than a weak sauce 18 Hz sub, but everyone is different in how hard they drive their equipment. Many here run their bass 10 dB hot, at or above reference volume, which would shred these drivers in a 18 Hz box.

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post #15 of 19 Old 05-26-2016, 05:39 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NWCgrad View Post
I think your best bet would be to make the ports removable so you can adjust the tuning. JBL Pro has a subwoofer that uses this driver (http://www.jblpro.com/www/products/i...5#.V0bmdMspCBY) BUT it is tuned to 40 Hz (which would be a MBM in AVS-land).

Start at 18 Hz like you modeled, then swap ports upwards in tuning until you get the extension and sound quality you are looking for. My guess it will be higher than the 18 Hz tuning, but experimentation is always better than speculation. I would rather have a solid 40 Hz sub than a weak sauce 18 Hz sub, but everyone is different in how hard they drive their equipment. Many here run their bass 10 dB hot, at or above reference volume, which would shred these drivers in a 18 Hz box.
Yeah I'm not looking at running reference or even close to it and I will be running them near field. So I should be able to pull out more and deeper output than my current setup and that's all I'm looking for for now. In the future I can then use the amp and get other drivers, that is just not a possibility at this moment.
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post #16 of 19 Old 05-26-2016, 06:49 AM
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I agree with @NWCgrad in shooting for a tunable config. Check out the vbss thread, mtg90 used aeroports to deliver 15hz, 24hz and 31hz tunes all in the same box. If 108db @ 18hz nearfield suits your needs, then build. Building it with tuning options may save you from building another box when you want moaaar output.
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post #17 of 19 Old 05-26-2016, 06:15 PM
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Here's something to think about if you can find really good speaker recone guy on the island to do a custom recone on the dead 2226 drivers.

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/ind...-cheap.328589/
EarlK likes this.
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post #18 of 19 Old 05-27-2016, 05:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mobeer4don View Post
Here's something to think about if you can find really good speaker recone guy on the island to do a custom recone on the dead 2226 drivers.

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/ind...-cheap.328589/
Thanks for mentioning that thread to our friend in Iceland . I believe that is real good advice.

Building on that, I think it's worthwhile to contact Gordon and ask if he would be willing to make up a couple of pre-assembled recone kits ( that could then be installed by this user ) .

Two of his custom 2236's in individual 125 litre cabinets ( tuned for maximum woofing ) with the stock 2226's in individual 125 litre cabinets ( tuned for mid-bass slam ), would offer a really great HT experience.

If a custom 2236 turns out to not be a viable option, then our friend here may want to try his hand at making his own custom woofers.

Given his countries isolated situation, I feel the virtue of; "Necessity being the Mother of Invention" acutely applies here.

McKenzie offers a pre-assembled 2226h recone kit that could act as the base "mule" to build upon.

At a minimum ) the @ 97 grams mms figure would need to be raised to a bare minimum of 150 grams so that the driver can start to be act as a LF woofer/sub-woofer .

Adding weight can be done by adding an improvised ( non-ferrous, non-magnetic ) mass ring that is fixed/glued to the outside of the voice-coil former.

Another way to add weight is to paint the cone ( as JBL does with some woofers ) with a plasticized paint ( something like Duratex ( or a European equivalent ) would be a start. This is doable but finicky work requiring measuring capabilities.

Of course, the would be transducer designer will want a way to measure the ts parameters ( for maximum clarity of design ) by owning Dayton Audio's DAT v2 or for the financially challenged, a working TS test jig made to use with REW ( and a 2-channel external soundcard with an adjustable headphones output ) .

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post #19 of 19 Old 05-27-2016, 09:56 AM
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with 4 drivers, tuning for 22hz in about 5 cubic feet per driver will provide for more output in the 20-35hz window.


that may provide enough bass depending on how crazy you are trying to go. 123db at xmax before room gain is nothing to sneeze at.

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