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post #61 of 702 Old 07-21-2016, 10:19 AM
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Yeah. The engineer in me says "keep it simple".
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post #62 of 702 Old 07-21-2016, 10:45 AM - Thread Starter
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My plan is to build the flat packs and then make decision on whether to enclose or not. The 2242 woofer is pretty good from 6 cu ft to 10 cu ft, of course bigger is better but they do have to fit into my theater space (both current and future).

Mike has me pondering the mini Grizzly track saw....I am also pondering the not to much more expensive Eureka zone track (I already own the EZSMART universal edge guide). For a 72" track and the two clamps it would run around $180. Would be able to add more features later with the Eureka Zone whereas to $89 Grizzly is not really expandable. But $89 is an easy pill to swallow.

Edit: Just ordered the 72" EZSmart track and clamps, should be a big help in cutting the plywood panels. After looking at all the accessories availed it just made sense.

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post #63 of 702 Old 07-22-2016, 11:09 AM
 
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If you doing all that might as well make it a tad bigger, drill some holes in the corners, load up some 4" or 5" woofers and make a UNITY!
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post #64 of 702 Old 07-22-2016, 11:37 AM - Thread Starter
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The midhorn is CNC'd and is pretty easy to assemble. The undecided part is how to incorporate it into a large speaker. To me it makes the most sense to build the things and then determine the next step.

I have a nice Dewalt miter saw so cutting the angles .709" × 3" braces accurately and repeatedly will be pretty easy. Looking forward to the packages to arrive next week.

I talked offline with @beastaudio about making the 4722 waveguide into a unity horn. It's big, plastic, and should be easy to machine. I have no aptitude or inclination to do the math on where to cut holes, what is the optimal size/shape of the holes, and then developing a crossover.

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post #65 of 702 Old 07-22-2016, 01:42 PM
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Heh. Yeah, good luck with the UNITY project.

I recommend building the horn and seeing it in hand for yourself. Everything will make sense once you've got it built. It's very easy to assemble.
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post #66 of 702 Old 07-22-2016, 01:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Heh. Yeah, good luck with the UNITY project.

I recommend building the horn and seeing it in hand for yourself. Everything will make sense once you've got it built. It's very easy to assemble.
That's what I am planning to do. Waiting until next wed is tough.

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post #67 of 702 Old 07-28-2016, 05:36 AM
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Any updates on this yet?
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post #68 of 702 Old 07-28-2016, 08:34 AM - Thread Starter
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Based on the damage to the credit card and the ever-growing Iron Mountain of materials in the basement I would have to say there is progress.

Picked up my newly reconed 2242HPL driver this morning, good to have it back home. It is very convenienthaving an authorized JBL repair shop between my house and the laboratory where I work.

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post #69 of 702 Old 07-28-2016, 09:03 AM
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It's past Wednesday already.

Where are ze horns?!?!
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post #70 of 702 Old 07-28-2016, 10:30 AM - Thread Starter
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It's past Wednesday already.

Where are ze horns?!?!
Here they are:



I have yet to unwrap them, but from first glance I am surprised to see the backplate and braces for the sides of the horns are included. I calculated building the enclosure (simple rectangle) and it will eat up about 3.3 cu ft of enclosure space. My gross enclosure volume is around 10.7 cu ft so I have space to play with. The JBL Pro ASB6118 sub (uses the 2242 driver) is around 7 cu ft and seems to be tuned around 35 to 40 Hz. I will play around on BassBox Pro to see how a 6.5 cu ft enclosure models with the driver.



As I am not running the driver as a sub, I am looking at 35 Hz (give or take) for the low end. Not sure what I will stuff in the 4645B cabinets. Hopefully I can find somewhere to store them until I order drivers to replace the 2242's (,ay go with some SI drivers and adjust the port length to suit). The JBL 2269's would be awesome, but at around $1800/pr seem a bit out my budget (that is 24" SI territory). Hmmm...seal the cabs, add another baffle to the front for added mass and run a sealed SI 24 with DSP. May be onto something here.
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post #71 of 702 Old 07-28-2016, 10:36 AM
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That all sounds good!

I don't believe my trio of midhorns came with the plate for the driver. IIRC, I had them made apart from the order. If Wayne is including them now then it's an even better value and easier to put together.


Are you looking for something better than the JBL 2242? It's a pretty good driver. Not a real hardcore "subwoofer" but certainly holds its own by todays standards. Used as a bass driver, I don't see the need to upgrade it already but that's just my opinion.
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post #72 of 702 Old 07-28-2016, 11:08 AM - Thread Starter
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Not looking to upgrade the 2242 in the build, looking at what to fill the soon to be empty 4645B cabinets....

For $100 the Midhorn flatpack seems pretty darn hard to beat.

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post #73 of 702 Old 07-28-2016, 11:12 AM
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Yeah, they are a sweet deal and perform well. Can't wait to see this finished so I can hear your impressions on it all.


My current (reasonable) favorite 18" pro bass driver is the BMS 18N862. Not cheap but Josh Ricci has two for sale.

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post #74 of 702 Old 08-01-2016, 06:10 AM - Thread Starter
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I got nothing accomplished over the weekend. My parents are coming this week and my wife didn't like the gigantic pile of supplies taking up a lot of space in the basement. Spent all day Saturday re-organizing my limited storage space to find places for all the new tools I've purchased (the 72" tracksaw track is particularly fun to stow). Spent all day Sunday recuperating from Saturday. I hauled three 50+ lb trashbags out of the space, amazing the stuff that is no longer "gotta have" when you need to stow tools and two sheets of Baltic birch.


Build will re-commence on 13 Aug when the parents leave.

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post #75 of 702 Old 08-01-2016, 07:08 AM
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Build will re-commence on 13 Aug when the parents leave.
Make it a father and son project.
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post #76 of 702 Old 08-02-2016, 05:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Make it a father and son project.
My wife and mother would shoot me and dad. At least we will get a couple of rounds of golf in between museum visits and what not.

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post #77 of 702 Old 08-12-2016, 12:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Went back to work on the build this morning after dropping the parents off at the airport.

Assembled the main components of the Midhorn:







So far so good....
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post #78 of 702 Old 08-12-2016, 12:18 PM
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Very good. Verrrrryyyy good.
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post #79 of 702 Old 08-12-2016, 12:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Scott...

I am starting to visualize just how freaking big the final speaker will be. I still believe it will be visually less obtrusive than my current setup (4 Pi setting on a 4645B turned on its side).

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post #80 of 702 Old 08-13-2016, 11:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Working the Midhorn assembly reminds me just how much I hate working with MDF. Stuff flakes and dents just by looking at it. Will be making the braces out of Baltic Birch.

I almost have the midhorns built. Now just have to engineer a way to mount them to a baffle, they are designed to be in their own enclosure but for this build I am going off the reservation. I "think" I have it figured out, but won't know for sure until later in the week.

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post #81 of 702 Old 08-13-2016, 11:42 AM
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I built a box around mine. Not very cleanly though. But after I thought it would be rather easy-ish to rear mount the horn to a baffle. My system was designed to be modular so that wouldn't have worked for me. You could try that since your system is a full 3-way speaker all-in-one.
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post #82 of 702 Old 08-13-2016, 02:30 PM - Thread Starter
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I am going to build a frame that will serve as a mounting flange out of 11-ply Baltic Birch (5/8"). This will be the same thickness as my outer baffle. I am going with a 3/4" inner and rear baffle. The only thing I do like about MDF is that 3/4" = 3/4". The Baltic Birch is more like 0.709".

Getting the horn square was somewhat tricky, took a lot of sanding but now they are exactly 26" wide.

The midrange driver will be mounted in a 0.5 cu ft box that is flush with rear baffle for access. I anticipate a lot of cussing and gnashing of teeth getting it to fit together properly. Hopefully all my cuts will be square.
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post #83 of 702 Old 08-14-2016, 01:09 AM
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Went back to work on the build this morning after dropping the parents off at the airport.

Assembled the main components of the Midhorn:







So far so good....
The hole on the back of the mid horn doesn't look quiet big enough for a 10" driver, and it looks like a square hole. Am I missing something here wrt how the 10" mid mounts to the horn?
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post #84 of 702 Old 08-14-2016, 06:38 AM - Thread Starter
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The hole on the back of the mid horn doesn't look quiet big enough for a 10" driver, and it looks like a square hole. Am I missing something here wrt how the 10" mid mounts to the horn?
The opening is 4.5" x 4.5." There is a back plate that attaches to the horn flare that the driver will mount to (will add photo when on the computer). The 10" driver will fire through the small opening which loads the driver (probably not the correct technical term).

Today I am going to try to make a way to mount the horn into a baffle.

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post #85 of 702 Old 08-17-2016, 09:40 AM - Thread Starter
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I have the mounting solution for the midhorn that doesn't reduce the cabinet volume to a degree that hurts bass tuning. The weather here sucks, afternoon thunderstorms have wrecked making progress (all steps that make dust must be performed outside in the weather).

@PassingInterest , as you are the master of woodworking I wanted to ask if I needed to veneer both sides of the 18 mm Baltic Birch I am working with. Reading up on veneer ingredients it seems that one is to veneer both sides of the material to prevent warping. However, Baltic Birch is already veneered so I think I can omit this potentially difficult step. Please advise if my assumption is incorrect.

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post #86 of 702 Old 08-17-2016, 10:41 AM
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I have the mounting solution for the midhorn that doesn't reduce the cabinet volume to a degree that hurts bass tuning. The weather here sucks, afternoon thunderstorms have wrecked making progress (all steps that make dust must be performed outside in the weather).

@PassingInterest , as you are the master of woodworking I wanted to ask if I needed to veneer both sides of the 18 mm Baltic Birch I am working with. Reading up on veneer ingredients it seems that one is to veneer both sides of the material to prevent warping. However, Baltic Birch is already veneered so I think I can omit this potentially difficult step. Please advise if my assumption is incorrect.
Your Baltic birch being plywood should be very stable. No need to veneer both sides. If you were working with solid hardwood, that would be a different story.
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post #87 of 702 Old 08-17-2016, 02:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Your Baltic birch being plywood should be very stable. No need to veneer both sides. If you were working with solid hardwood, that would be a different story.
Thanks!

I was 99% sure of this, but with the cost associated with the build I only want to have to do it once and enjoy for around a decade before upgrading anything outside of drivers, DSP, and amps.

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post #88 of 702 Old 08-19-2016, 04:14 AM - Thread Starter
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On the JTR speaker thread an all red 210 speaker was posted by Jeff, it looked pretty sweet. Made me think about painting the midhorn the same color as the baffle.





Any thoughts? I am thinking about ordering tinted Duratex for the baffle.
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post #89 of 702 Old 08-19-2016, 06:50 AM
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Tinted duratex? I thought you had to make that yourself...very cool.
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post #90 of 702 Old 08-19-2016, 01:44 PM
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Traditional JBL monitor blue and walnut veneer would work...or black with rosewood veneer....can't go wrong with that.

So what is the plan for the cabinet finish?
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