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Old 07-22-2016, 07:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Wet sanding paint for clear coat prep

Question: If my base coat is pretty level, do I really need to wet sand it to get it perfectly smooth when I am going to cover it with a clear coat anyway? After several layers of clear coat are layed down, Would anyone really see the Imperfections below the clear coat once it is leveled and buffed out?
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Old 07-22-2016, 07:41 PM
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Most solid colors won't show anything, especially black. Getting into metallics is where you see the base. What paint system?
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Old 07-22-2016, 08:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Paint System

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Originally Posted by Carbon66 View Post
Most solid colors won't show anything, especially black. Getting into metallics is where you see the base. What paint system?
I am working with Gloss Black oil base, and oil based Polyurethane.
Roughing up the black with 220 grit after fully cured, about one week. Then mixing in holographic powder in the polyurethane about two coats followed by two coats without the powder.
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Old 07-22-2016, 08:19 PM
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Ok. That's going to be a lot of cure time. Your first coat with the powder is going to be the most important. Go easy on the first and judge from there how much more you want on the second. You can always add more, but not less. Too much and they'll start getting into the charcoal grey family. Knocking the sheen off after a day or so will show you how much orange peel you have and will also let the solvents escape. Wet 320-500 on this step.
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Old 07-23-2016, 12:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Here are the best pics for now of the painted surface.
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Last edited by Ferroll Givens; 07-23-2016 at 11:36 AM.
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Old 07-23-2016, 04:39 AM
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Why would you wet sand the paint? Should you just go over it, lightly, with 400g dry sandpaper? That is what I normally do and it always works out well. I would also recommend going over your primer with 400g too, before you paint.
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Old 07-23-2016, 05:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ferroll Givens View Post
Question: If my base coat is pretty level, do I really need to wet sand it to get it perfectly smooth when I am going to cover it with a clear coat anyway?
If it's very smooth then you don't need to sand. Typically when painting a car you specifically do not want to sand the color coat, as the clear coat will adhere better if it's not sanded. But that assumes that you're spraying and you're experienced in how to minimize orange peel. 'Pretty level' isn't good enough.
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That's going to be a lot of cure time.
+1.

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Old 07-23-2016, 11:02 AM
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I have painted cars in the past. Typically we sprayed the clear over unsanded base coat, just used a tack cloth between coats. After clear coat is cured, we wet sanded with 1500 to remove orange peel, then 2000 to smooth the 1500 grit scratches, then wheeled out the clear to a high gloss with a three step process. Mirror finish by this point. Hope that helped.
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Old 07-23-2016, 11:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jk7.2 View Post
I have painted cars in the past. Typically we sprayed the clear over unsanded base coat, just used a tack cloth between coats. After clear coat is cured, we wet sanded with 1500 to remove orange peel, then 2000 to smooth the 1500 grit scratches, then wheeled out the clear to a high gloss with a three step process. Mirror finish by this point. Hope that helped.
I am applying everything by hand. So that information may or may not apply, but thanks.
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Old Today, 06:18 PM - Thread Starter
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I guess not many of you have tried to do a Piano Black by hand ( no sprayer ). So here is the answer to my question, because now I know - Trial and error = Experience. Yes, applying a clear coat over imperfections will not eliminate them, no matter how smooth and flat the top clear coat is. A perfectly prepared base coat will allow for a perfect top coat. This my first attempt at a Piano Black finish.
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Old Today, 06:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ferroll Givens View Post
A perfectly prepared base coat will allow for a perfect top coat. This my first attempt at a Piano Black finish.

It goes back further .

A perfectly prepared surface allows for a perfect undercoat surface . Paints only for colour .
My back ground was automotive refinishing .

Cheers

DIY , Ikea Style
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Old Today, 06:45 PM
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Yes, you could get a piano black finish without spraying. But why? A cheap Harbor Freight gun is $15. Used compressor on craigslist for less than $100. I can't imagine sanding everything flat after rolling or brushing. Especially all of the paper you would go through with polyurethane.

Here's a link where I built some stands finished in "piano black" https://community.klipsch.com/index....heresy-stands/

Hopefully you can get a couple tips out of that thread. I would go with automotive paint, or even a rattle can system.
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Old Today, 07:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oval56 View Post
It goes back further .

A perfectly prepared surface allows for a perfect undercoat surface . Paints only for colour .
My back ground was automotive refinishing .

Cheers
Yes, that is very true, but already implied.

Trial and Error= Experience
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Old Today, 07:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carbon66 View Post
Yes, you could get a piano black finish without spraying. But why? A cheap Harbor Freight gun is $15. Used compressor on craigslist for less than $100. I can't imagine sanding everything flat after rolling or brushing. Especially all of the paper you would go through with polyurethane.

Here's a link where I built some stands finished in "piano black" https://community.klipsch.com/index....heresy-stands/

Hopefully you can get a couple tips out of that thread. I would go with automotive paint, or even a rattle can system.
I do not have the area to do spraying. I wish i did, and even if i did, I lack experience to do so. So I do what I can with what I have or have not.

Trial and Error= Experience
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