Best way to approach LCR/Sub built-in speakers? - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 12 Old 09-21-2016, 07:10 AM - Thread Starter
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Best way to approach LCR/Sub built-in speakers?

I'm looking for suggestions regarding how to best build out this wall. This is not a dedicated theater space, but will have a motorized drop down screen and blackout curtains for when we want to watch movies. My current setup consists of Definitive speakers - really nice ones, but I would really like an SPL increase in addition to having the speakers be out of sight/out of the way. Since we're going to install a ledge under this window (for potential egress), I figure I should use that depth for something useful... like a giant enclosure or set of enclosures. See the attached, crappy MS Paint diagram.

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post #2 of 12 Old 09-21-2016, 06:27 PM - Thread Starter
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If bribes would help, let me know.
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post #3 of 12 Old 09-22-2016, 10:08 AM - Thread Starter
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I'll try once more, please let me know if I'm not providing enough information.

Bring
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post #4 of 12 Old 09-22-2016, 10:48 AM
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Well since I have a similar situation in my room, Ill bite What is the point of the shelves? Are you doing an acoustically transparent screen, or do the speakers (LRC) need to be in the open when the screen is down? How far from the wall, with the window, will the screen be?

Sean
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post #5 of 12 Old 09-22-2016, 11:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Broke EF View Post
What is the point of the shelves?
He's already stated it's an escape route for when SWAT raids the house for excessive noise.

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Since we're going to install a ledge under this window (for potential egress), I figure I should use that depth for something useful...
Two thoughts just looking at the ledge:
  1. Height and dimension of ledge?
  2. Height of ear level at the listening position?
I'm concerned the ledge may interfere with a good height for the LCR. In the very least it will probably influence what speaker you can potentially place upon it (if it's not too high).

I think you might get more response if you've got the overall dimensions better nailed down and a better idea what you're trying to accomplish besides SPL increase. Is this for mostly music or movies? Are you doing the theater and speaker build yourself? Are you building the boxes yourself, or are you going with flatpacks?
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post #6 of 12 Old 09-22-2016, 12:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Broke EF View Post
What is the point of the shelves? Are you doing an acoustically transparent screen, or do the speakers (LRC) need to be in the open when the screen is down? How far from the wall, with the window, will the screen be?
Thanks for biting. It won't necessarily be shelves, but something will be framed out from the wall that runs the span of the room (14') under the window. We'll be putting in a 7'x3' window about 4' off the floor. The way we have our ductwork and plumbing arranged, the motorized screen can only go in the joist cavity that is ~3' away from the wall (rather than up against it), so rather than have dead space behind it, may as well have shelves or built-in speakers or something. My current LCR setup consists of one DT CLR2500 and two DT BP7002 towers.

I can't find a perfect example, so use your imagination (imagine speakers where those drawers are):


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He's already stated it's an escape route for when SWAT raids the house for excessive noise.
It's good to have goals.

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Originally Posted by wasser View Post
Two thoughts just looking at the ledge:
  1. Height and dimension of ledge?
  2. Height of ear level at the listening position?
I'm concerned the ledge may interfere with a good height for the LCR. In the very least it will probably influence what speaker you can potentially place upon it (if it's not too high).

I think you might get more response if you've got the overall dimensions better nailed down and a better idea what you're trying to accomplish besides SPL increase. Is this for mostly music or movies? Are you doing the theater and speaker build yourself? Are you building the boxes yourself, or are you going with flatpacks?
- 42-48" top of ledge/bottom of window
- 30-40" ear height when seated on couch or chairs
- music and movies, but I will always prioritize stereo listening if forced to choose
- I am building the room and speaker placement myself
- I used to build sub enclosures for my cars and I've got the tools to make something custom

We (my wife and I) have discussed also building a tapped horn sub into the wall or some Marty subs... so we're not timid.
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post #7 of 12 Old 09-22-2016, 01:15 PM
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IMHO 2x 18" Mini-Marty's would be the best for your subs. If you REALLY want to go full-DIY, then either the Fusion-15's or Elusive 1099's may be your best choice if max SPL is your goal (and, from all accounts, they sound great too). Add one- or two-pair of Volt-8's for surrounds, and you're laughing. Volt-6's could be purposed for Atmos, if you decide to go down THAT rabbit-hole...
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post #8 of 12 Old 09-22-2016, 01:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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IMHO 2x 18" Mini-Marty's would be the best for your subs. If you REALLY want to go full-DIY, then either the Fusion-15's or Elusive 1099's may be your best choice if max SPL is your goal (and, from all accounts, they sound great too). Add one- or two-pair of Volt-8's for surrounds, and you're laughing. Volt-6's could be purposed for Atmos, if you decide to go down THAT rabbit-hole...
I've never dealt with DIY Sound Group before. Is it a case of really great speakers or just really great for the price? Outside of car audio from 10 years ago, I'm pretty ignorant on who the big players are when it comes to drivers, crossovers, and all that.
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post #9 of 12 Old 09-22-2016, 02:02 PM
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From what I've read on here, the DIYSG speakers routinely match up very well with the so-called "big boys" of theater speakers, ie: JTR, Power Sound Audio, JBL Professional, Danley Sound Labs, Seaton sound, etc at various GTGs (Get ToGethers). You could build either of those I mentioned for a fraction of the price, and have comparable sound and volume. They are both very high-efficiency speakers, so you will be able to drive them to insane volume levels with most AVRs.
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post #10 of 12 Old 09-23-2016, 06:12 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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From what I've read on here, the DIYSG speakers routinely match up very well with the so-called "big boys" of theater speakers, ie: JTR, Power Sound Audio, JBL Professional, Danley Sound Labs, Seaton sound, etc at various GTGs (Get ToGethers). You could build either of those I mentioned for a fraction of the price, and have comparable sound and volume. They are both very high-efficiency speakers, so you will be able to drive them to insane volume levels with most AVRs.
Great, after reading up on them, I'm convinced that they will satisfy! Now it just comes down to the layout and choosing a size.

So... given my room size (7' ceilings, 14' wide x 20' deep) and seating height (primarily one row at 30-40"), what is the ideal height for a 3x1099 LCR setup? Or should I go with stereo F15 and forego the center channel?
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post #11 of 12 Old 09-23-2016, 10:22 AM
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- 42-48" top of ledge/bottom of window
- 30-40" ear height when seated on couch or chairs
What's the height from the floor to the bottom of the ledge?

Center tweeter height for the 1099 is 20 1/2" in the standard orientation, but you can flip them over for 15 3/4". The Fusion 15 tweeter height is 24 1/2", that puts the tweeter just 4 1/2" below the top. If the ledge goes across the location of the L/R, it seems to me the 1099's will be way too low and you'll have to look at options with tweeter placed high like the Fusion 15.

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So... given my room size (7' ceilings, 14' wide x 20' deep) and seating height (primarily one row at 30-40"), what is the ideal height for a 3x1099 LCR setup? Or should I go with stereo F15 and forego the center channel?
There isn't a precise ideal height, but you want the tweeter roughly at about ear level to the listening position. Also, I have L/R F-15's and I'd recommend a center channel for movies. It just gives you better control over dialogue. Sometimes I find it challenging to hear voices over the effects and music with just L/R. You don't necessarily have to use the Fusion 15 as center though. Having the same tweeter, the 88 Special is a popular option to match with them. Also, either F-15 or 1099 can be built as towers to extend for better full range, but the F-15 probably pulls ahead in this type of build. Either one matched with subs should be satisfying.

Another option to consider might be the Maximus 12. It's a great full range option.
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post #12 of 12 Old 09-27-2016, 08:48 AM - Thread Starter
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I think, based upon what I'm reading here, I am going to pursue a 1099 LCR setup. If I can't achieve a mathematically perfect listening height, I'm not that concerned about it unless someone can convince me that it would be detrimental to the setup in some way and a total waste of time.
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