AVS Forum banner

Pro sound subwoofer

1K views 9 replies 6 participants last post by  asarose247 
#1 ·
I have 4cuft flat pack I have a Dayton rs18. In there now. Can someone recommend a pro subwoofer driver I can swap out and give a try and see is I like them better. Want it to play down to 20Hz at least. Thanks
 
#3 ·
In order to tune a pro driver to 20hz it often requires 15-20cuft. I don't think you'll find ANY pro driver that will ACTUALLY model to 20hz in 4cuft, except for "maybe" the TC 5100 (which isn't produced anymore... and was ~$1200 new.)

More like 30-40hz... for 4cuft
 
#4 ·
for my curiosity wrt "pro sound woofer" possibilities

and I quote:

the PA460 is very efficient in the mid bass leading to very little thermal compression and great dynamics in that range. While it is a bit limited in terms of coil overhang it does have a very soft suspension and decent mechanical clearances so there is no trouble pushing it a bit at lower frequencies. I have done thorough testing with the iNuke 3000 and the driver stays safe even when driven hard below tuning with the DSP settings limiting any bad noises from either the driver or the amp when being pushed hard into the limiter as was demonstrated at ENG-399's where a pair was run at reference with the sub trim about 16dB hot.

The enclosure is a fairly straightforward ported box, approximately 6.25 cubic feet net internal. Measures 23.5" wide, 31.5" tall x 20-20.5" deep (depending on double baffle or not). If going with a single baffle layer and surface mounting the enclosure can be cut from a single 4x8' 3/4" sheet of MDF or plywood. Add a 2x4' sheet of 1/2" if you want to flush mount the drivers and ports which is how I built mine.


and so on, as excellent piece of work, the VBSS thread
 
#7 ·
Only reason I ask is because in movie theaters and pro cinema speakers they use pro drivers rather then these huge sub with crazy surround on them. I'm guess it's cheaper and there not trying to get below 20Hz cause it would cost to much. But I just like the sound of pro drivers. There much more impact full I feel. And I don't care for anything lower then 15hz -20Hz right now. I have a big room yea I can just add another 4 RS 18in. But just like trying new things. But if it's not possible then maybe I can make 4 Marty cabs. Put the rs18 in there and use my sealed cabs make them MIDBASS. But before I do that cause it's going to close I need to get new LCR
 
#8 ·
BMS 18N862 is one of the best "hybrid" style 18" drivers imo...a good balance of strong deep bass capability and sensitivity for lots of top end output. They aren't cheap but if you want want driver that does everything really well, and not one thing great at the expense of everything else, this might be a good option. If cost were not an object(it is currently), this is what I would be using in my dual 4ft^3 sealed cabs.

The PA460 is of course a great super budget option to try...hell it's so cheap you have nothing to lose. It's what I did....I had an HST-18 and an HT-18 each driven off one channel of an Inuke6k. I sold the HT18 and dropped the PA460 in. The HST-18/PA460 combo is overall much better performing. The HT-18 wasn't really adding any output down low, but the PA460 adds a truck load of slam up top.
 
#10 ·
I put 2 drivers in a 9.5 internal, ported box, in parallel, one channel of an inuke6K, around 1K watts
HPF of 40, LPF is 120 thru the X5200,
sits mid front wall directly behind LCR line up,

can be noticeably tactile for kick drum range and "slam up top"
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top