Need assistance designing 27cu/ft+ enclosure for Dayton HO18 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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Old 11-08-2016, 03:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Need assistance designing 27cu/ft+ enclosure for Dayton HO18

It has finally come time for me to build some subwoofer boxes for my new dedicated HT room. Right now I have two Dayton HO18's and two PA460's on the way. The HO's will go in the baffle wall corners while the PA460's will serve double duty as nearfield end tables on each side of my seating area. We can start with the HO18's...

I should have room for two 20cu/ft or bigger enclosures. One on each side and at the bottom in the baffle walls lower corners. In my baffle wall I have 20.5" in width for the enclosure, 27" depth, and up to 90" in height. As long as the enclosure fits these spec limitations, we are good.

I definitely want the enclosures to be ported. With a simple round or slot port. The HO18's will be powered by an iNuke3000 I want it to extend down to 18hz, but, still retain the output and sound quality at the other end of the frequency spectrum as well. I don't need nor desire anything below 18hz.

So with that being said, can LTD02 or some of the other subwoofer gurus help me out on this design? I don't have access to a PC at the moment. So I am depending on you guys for help. Thanks in advanced.
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Old 11-08-2016, 04:13 AM
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So... you're making a couple of pesky small subs then?

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Old 11-09-2016, 02:45 AM - Thread Starter
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So... you're making a couple of pesky small subs then?
Well at 27cu/ft+ I wouldn't exactly call them pesky and small. LoL
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Old 11-09-2016, 03:30 AM
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I'm not sure that there is much benefit to going larger than the so-called full marty (11c.f. net) for something like this. that should get you 15hz or lower extension (cab is native around 17hz) and only requires about 1kw of power to motivate the driver to its full usable excursion above tuning.


just adjust the dimensions to fit in your space.
20.5" wide
27" depth
45" tall


port changes to 17.5" wide effective, so just increase height to 3.5"
38" long should get you around 17hz
a couple inches either way doesn't matter a whole lot. just gives a little higher or lower tuning if you want.


double check those cab dimensions depending on whether or not you want to use a double front baffle. 11 c.f. or a little larger is the target.
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Old 11-09-2016, 03:34 AM
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going to 27 cubic feet doesn't really do much. more efficiency right on tuning which could have some benefits, but i wouldn't design for that.


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Old 11-09-2016, 03:54 AM
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Why order HO When the UM's are like the same price and far more capable?
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Old 11-11-2016, 04:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Why order HO When the UM's are like the same price and far more capable?
Perhaps I should have clarified, I already own the HO18's, it's the PA460's that I just ordered. Sorry for the confusion.
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Old 11-11-2016, 04:20 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post
I'm not sure that there is much benefit to going larger than the so-called full marty (11c.f. net) for something like this. that should get you 15hz or lower extension (cab is native around 17hz) and only requires about 1kw of power to motivate the driver to its full usable excursion above tuning.


just adjust the dimensions to fit in your space.
20.5" wide
27" depth
45" tall


port changes to 17.5" wide effective, so just increase height to 3.5"
38" long should get you around 17hz
a couple inches either way doesn't matter a whole lot. just gives a little higher or lower tuning if you want.


double check those cab dimensions depending on whether or not you want to use a double front baffle. 11 c.f. or a little larger is the target.

Thanks for the help, brother. I will build the cabinets for the HO18's at 20.5" wide by 27" deep by 45" tall. For the front baffle I will use 3/4" plywood with a second layer of 1/2" plywood just because that is what I have on hand.

Will make the slot port 17.5" wide by 3.5" high by 38" long. Any advice on how to make the port 38" long in an enclosure such as this one? This sub will be going into a baffle wall. It's not deep enough to put the slot port on the front baffle. Perhaps I should put it on top or bottom so as to not have any 90* bends?
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Old 11-11-2016, 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Tip24/96 View Post

Will make the slot port 17.5" wide by 3.5" high by 38" long. Any advice on how to make the port 38" long in an enclosure such as this one? This sub will be going into a baffle wall. It's not deep enough to put the slot port on the front baffle. Perhaps I should put it on top or bottom so as to not have any 90* bends?
Would putting the port opening on the top do anything to the sound because it's inside the wall ?
Anything against 90* bends?
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Old 11-11-2016, 10:53 AM
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Lightbulb

11.08 ft3 Tapered-Tapped Quarter Wave Tube (T-TQWT) or negative flare tapped horn.
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Old 11-11-2016, 01:15 PM
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I'd think that a front firing port out the bottom with an L-shape port kind of like the upright marty-sub would work for your application.


something along these lines (for the port design; bracing is whatever you like just so long as the cabs are well-braced)


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Old 11-12-2016, 12:14 AM
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Using LTD02's design, your parts list would be:


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Old 11-12-2016, 02:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Using LTD02's design, your parts list would be:


Wow thanks Augerhandle! Haven't seen you post in a while.
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Old 11-12-2016, 12:55 PM
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Wow thanks Augerhandle! Haven't seen you post in a while.

You're welcome. Yeah, I've been very busy lately.

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Old 11-13-2016, 07:09 AM - Thread Starter
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I'd think that a front firing port out the bottom with an L-shape port kind of like the upright marty-sub would work for your application.


something along these lines (for the port design; bracing is whatever you like just so long as the cabs are well-braced)



LTD02, would you mind perhaps posting a color coded drawing (like the one you made in the original full Marty thread) that shows how each of the cabinet parts fit together? For example, this would show how the top and bottom fit in between the sides and that the sides do not sit on top of the bottom and under the top. Does that make sense? Just trying to get a mental picture of how the panels go together.
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Old 11-13-2016, 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Tip24/96 View Post
LTD02, would you mind perhaps posting a color coded drawing (like the one you made in the original full Marty thread) that shows how each of the cabinet parts fit together? For example, this would show how the top and bottom fit in between the sides and that the sides do not sit on top of the bottom and under the top. Does that make sense? Just trying to get a mental picture of how the panels go together.



They should fit together the same way. I based the parts measurements off of the Full Marty design.



(I'm not LTD02, but I did sleep in a Holiday Inn Express last night.)
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Old 11-15-2016, 03:23 AM - Thread Starter
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They should fit together the same way. I based the parts measurements off of the Full Marty design.



(I'm not LTD02, but I did sleep in a Holiday Inn Express last night.)
That's what I figured. I did a dry mock up yesterday and will hopefully finish these sub enclosures up tomorrow. Thanks man!
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Old 11-17-2016, 03:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Does anyone know the cutout diameter of the Dayton 18HO? For surface mounting?
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Old 11-17-2016, 03:45 AM - Thread Starter
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I googled the 18HO cutout diameter and found that it is 16.69". What would that translate to on a jasper jig? Should I round up to 16.75"?
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Old 11-18-2016, 01:04 PM
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No, use 11/16 or 0.6875.
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Old 11-18-2016, 01:27 PM
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I googled the 18HO cutout diameter and found that it is 16.69". What would that translate to on a jasper jig? Should I round up to 16.75"?

16.75 will be only 1/16" big overall, or just 1/32" all the way around. If you cant do 16-11/16" (16.69"), then 16-3/4" is the way to go.

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Old 11-18-2016, 05:01 PM
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Pardon me interrupting a thread, I am just a curious what is a typical time required to build a ported sub? I am thinking of usual premade designs that are popular around here. Actual work time only, not time waiting for glue to dry or similar.
I currently have no woodworking skills except with an axe and saw but I got a two healthy hands.

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Old 11-18-2016, 06:44 PM
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Pardon me interrupting a thread, I am just a curious what is a typical time required to build a ported sub? I am thinking of usual premade designs that are popular around here. Actual work time only, not time waiting for glue to dry or similar.
I currently have no woodworking skills except with an axe and saw but I got a two healthy hands.
Hi, sort of a tough question to answer since there are a ton of variables here but, I'll give it a go....

Actual wood cutting time, I'd guess somewhere between 1-4 hours, depending on how you are cutting the wood ( i.e table saw, circular saw w/ guide, jig saw, or the axe and old school saw you mentioned

In order to speed up the "waiting for the glue to dry" period, Id use good wood glue with a fast setup time, as well as a brad nailer, if you have access to one. If you dont, then you 'll be waiting longer and using clamps to hold everything together as it dries. So, my best guess.....with a brad nailer 1 hour, and with out 4-6 hours.

The BIG variable is next, and that's your prep/finishing time. Steps here depending on how particular you are include, filling in the seams, sanding, and then your finish of choice ( duratex, paint, veneer ). So again with a best guess......another 2-3 hours here.

Lastly, another 1-2 hours for installing a speaker jack / speakon style jack, wiring up the driver, installing some type of gasket, and then installing the driver.
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Old 11-18-2016, 07:19 PM
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I bet you could build a Marty from a pile of wood in one day. Install driver 24 hours later when glue is dry.

On your first try it will take 2 weeks, a lot of swearing, and 5 trips to Home Depot.

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Old 11-18-2016, 07:28 PM
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On your first try it will take 2 weeks, a lot of swearing, and 5 trips to Home Depot.
Trips to home depot....to funny and true!

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Old 11-18-2016, 09:21 PM
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That's what I figured. I did a dry mock up yesterday and will hopefully finish these sub enclosures up tomorrow. Thanks man!

if you run into any issues, feel free to pm, but (thanks to the other guys) it sounds like you are in good shape.

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