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post #1 of 43 Old 01-23-2017, 07:42 AM - Thread Starter
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First DIY: Classix II Build

The time has come after much lurking to finally do my own DIY. As you saw from the title I'll be building the Classix for desktop speaker usage. Obviously, I'm going to have plenty of questions so if you can help I'd appreciate it.

I'm building the entire cabinet myself. So first thing I'm concerned about is the baffle. I don't own a traditional router any more as it died. I do have a Dremel however and will purchase the plunge routing attachment for it.

The speaker is the Dayton Audio DC160. PE says the baffel cut out diameter is 5.69", so that would be the size going all the way through, and I'd do the 6.5" about 1/4 through?
What bit is it that I need to counter sink these speakers?

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post #2 of 43 Old 01-23-2017, 12:10 PM
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You'll spend hours with the dremel. It's only an 1/8" diameter bit and it will dull significantly before you finish. Alternative is to get an inexpensive jig saw and then flush mount the speakers.

To answer your question, yes the 5.69 is all the way through. The 6.5" should be recessed about 3/8. The tweeter is only recessed about 3/16.
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post #3 of 43 Old 01-23-2017, 12:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Boxozaxu View Post
You'll spend hours with the dremel. It's only an 1/8" diameter bit and it will dull significantly before you finish. Alternative is to get an inexpensive jig saw and then flush mount the speakers.

To answer your question, yes the 5.69 is all the way through. The 6.5" should be recessed about 3/8. The tweeter is only recessed about 3/16.
I do have a jigsaw, just doing a proper hole is a pain obviously, but if it's flush mount you really wouldn't see that behind the basket.

I am debating picking up a cheap router from home depot (I need it for some upcoming projects anyway). From what i've gathered from google all I would really need is a jasper jig for the circle, a straight cutting bit, round over to make it pretty, and maybe a flush trim bit to help with any mistakes. Could probably snag all that for about $100 or so. Not so terrible i guess.
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post #4 of 43 Old 01-23-2017, 01:59 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Boxozaxu View Post
You'll spend hours with the dremel. It's only an 1/8" diameter bit and it will dull significantly before you finish. Alternative is to get an inexpensive jig saw and then flush mount the speakers.

To answer your question, yes the 5.69 is all the way through. The 6.5" should be recessed about 3/8. The tweeter is only recessed about 3/16.
What about these as a setup?
http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-5-...4012/100337039

https://www.amazon.com/Jasper-400J-R...rds=jasper+jig

https://www.amazon.com/Stalwart-Mult...rds=router+bit
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post #5 of 43 Old 01-23-2017, 02:37 PM
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A router and a circle jig is the way to go. I'd suggest the bigger Jasper Jig, it'll allow you to do bigger cutout later when you build bigger speakers or subwoofers.

There's no "if" about building bigger speakers or subwoofers. You will!
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post #6 of 43 Old 01-23-2017, 05:37 PM - Thread Starter
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A router and a circle jig is the way to go. I'd suggest the bigger Jasper Jig, it'll allow you to do bigger cutout later when you build bigger speakers or subwoofers.

There's no "if" about building bigger speakers or subwoofers. You will!
It's true. I already wanna do a Marty with a ultimax 18".

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post #7 of 43 Old 01-23-2017, 06:19 PM
 
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I use These for cutting my holes. Seems to cut better than the straight bit.
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post #8 of 43 Old 01-23-2017, 06:34 PM - Thread Starter
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I use These for cutting my holes. Seems to cut better than the straight bit.
Alright. What about for making the counter sink for the speaker?

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post #9 of 43 Old 01-23-2017, 06:40 PM
 
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You don't cut the hole in one pass. So you cut the outer most "recess" first then shrink your diameter a bit and cut again until the you're ready to move onto the mounting hole. Then gradually increase bit depth until it's all the way through. It takes a bit longer but reduces stress on the bit and the router by not having to cut all the way through in a single pass.
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post #10 of 43 Old 01-23-2017, 07:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Fattykidd View Post
You don't cut the hole in one pass. So you cut the outer most "recess" first then shrink your diameter a bit and cut again until the you're ready to move onto the mounting hole. Then gradually increase bit depth until it's all the way through. It takes a bit longer but reduces stress on the bit and the router by not having to cut all the way through in a single pass.
Okay, I wasn't sure if it was a different bit or anything like that. Thanks for all the heads up, just saved me some money buying stuff I don't need.

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post #11 of 43 Old 01-23-2017, 07:34 PM
 
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Okay, I wasn't sure if it was a different bit or anything like that. Thanks for all the heads up, just saved me some money buying stuff I don't need.

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Well.. Not really, you'll still need a roundover and flush trim bit.
I may have just cost you an extra 20bux..
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post #12 of 43 Old 01-23-2017, 07:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Well.. Not really, you'll still need a roundover and flush trim bit.
I may have just cost you an extra 20bux..
Well ****. Thanks a lot...For making my cabinets look nicer. I'd flush trim then roundover right?

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post #13 of 43 Old 01-23-2017, 07:39 PM
 
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Lol... Yeah, That's the way I would do it.
But others may have a different process.
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post #14 of 43 Old 01-23-2017, 07:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Lol... Yeah, That's the way I would do it.
But others may have a different process.
Seems like that would make sense that way at least. Just got shipment notifications for parts today. Need to get started on these cabinets!


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post #15 of 43 Old 01-23-2017, 07:55 PM - Thread Starter
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Well.. Not really, you'll still need a roundover and flush trim bit.
I may have just cost you an extra 20bux..
As for that router, think that would be sufficient?

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post #16 of 43 Old 01-23-2017, 07:58 PM
 
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I use this one. Very similar. Just go slow.
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post #17 of 43 Old 01-23-2017, 08:01 PM - Thread Starter
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I use this one. Very similar. Just go slow.
Damn near identical. Awesome. Thanks for all the tips!


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post #18 of 43 Old 01-23-2017, 08:11 PM
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The rigid looks fine. For $10 more I would opt for the Bosch Colt (Variable Speed). It's well regarded by others and it drops down to $100 quite often. Of course these are just laminate routers. As long as you don't push them too hard or want to use huge round over bits, you'll be fine.

@thucker is right about the jig. Unless you never plan to go bigger than 7 1/2" or never plan to make your own circle jig (as simple as a board with a nail in it), get the larger jasper jig.

Stay away from router bit sets. Your better off buying the individual bits you need from a good brand. That spiral up cut bit is what you need. I took a few pictures of the baffle I made for my front ported Classix II speakers. Maybe you'll find it helpful even though I personally didn't bother using a spiral up cut bit.

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post #19 of 43 Old 01-23-2017, 08:17 PM
 
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Lol.. That was thucker that suggested the bigger jig. I use a strip of mdf with a bunch of holes drilled in it. Simple yet works perfectly.
And yes the variable speed would be nice. Didn't realize it was only 10bux more.
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post #20 of 43 Old 01-23-2017, 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Fattykidd View Post
Lol.. That was thucker that suggested the bigger jig. I use a strip of mdf with a bunch of holes drilled in it. Simple yet works perfectly.
And yes the variable speed would be nice. Didn't realize it was only 10bux more.
Oops. Fixed it.

I have the jasper jig. Funny thing is that I don't really like using it compared to my own adjustable circle jigs but I'll grab it anyway because it's easier to dial in exact cuts when you need them.
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post #21 of 43 Old 01-23-2017, 08:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Oops. Fixed it.

I have the jasper jig. Funny thing is that I don't really like using it compared to my own adjustable circle jigs but I'll grab it anyway because it's easier to dial in exact cuts when you need them.
Debating maybe just making my own jig. Those circle jigs are quite expensive for something so simple.

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post #22 of 43 Old 01-23-2017, 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Sickened1 View Post
The time has come after much lurking to finally do my own DIY. As you saw from the title I'll be building the Classix for desktop speaker usage. Obviously, I'm going to have plenty of questions so if you can help I'd appreciate it.

I'm building the entire cabinet myself. So first thing I'm concerned about is the baffle. I don't own a traditional router any more as it died. I do have a Dremel however and will purchase the plunge routing attachment for it.

The speaker is the Dayton Audio DC160. PE says the baffel cut out diameter is 5.69", so that would be the size going all the way through, and I'd do the 6.5" about 1/4 through?
What bit is it that I need to counter sink these speakers?

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I already tried this with a brand new dremel and it was not strong enough to make one full cut. The dremel overheated and that was that. Either get a kit or buy a router. This will save you from ruining your dremel and wasting money on the attachment.
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post #23 of 43 Old 01-24-2017, 01:08 PM - Thread Starter
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I already tried this with a brand new dremel and it was not strong enough to make one full cut. The dremel overheated and that was that. Either get a kit or buy a router. This will save you from ruining your dremel and wasting money on the attachment.
Yeah, ill just pick up a router then. I'll need it for a project in February anyway.
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post #24 of 43 Old 01-24-2017, 03:59 PM - Thread Starter
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Amp is in! Looks nice and it's compact. Should have enough power.

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post #25 of 43 Old 01-24-2017, 04:08 PM
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Sorry for bein so blunt , i was in a hurry but wanted to save you the frustration. MDF is friggin brutal. I was buying expensive Freud bits and the MDF absolutely rips them up and chips them. Take your time when you cut the hold and take small pass' to save your bits. cut your shoulder first then the hole and be sure to practice on scrap and double check it all.
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post #26 of 43 Old 01-24-2017, 05:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Sorry for bein so blunt , i was in a hurry but wanted to save you the frustration. MDF is friggin brutal. I was buying expensive Freud bits and the MDF absolutely rips them up and chips them. Take your time when you cut the hold and take small pass' to save your bits. cut your shoulder first then the hole and be sure to practice on scrap and double check it all.
No worries! I do appreciate the time spent typing up the advice. I plan on taking cuts very slowly and doing my best to keep my impatience in check!

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post #27 of 43 Old 01-25-2017, 11:32 AM
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Debating maybe just making my own jig. Those circle jigs are quite expensive for something so simple.

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I made my own way back when I built my first Tempest sub, and as long as you remember to measure correctly (measure to the outside of the cutting bit, etc.) it's very simple and you can get the exact size you need.
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post #28 of 43 Old 01-25-2017, 11:38 AM - Thread Starter
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I made my own way back when I built my first Tempest sub, and as long as you remember to measure correctly (measure to the outside of the cutting bit, etc.) it's very simple and you can get the exact size you need.
I actually ended up just buying a jig afterall. I figure it's less hassle, plus then the lady of the house can't hold my inevitable cursing, after I screw up the measurement this first time, against me.

Rest of the parts should be coming in today and I'll get started on the crossovers tonight. Going for a nodal crossover setup I found online for this. Keeps it more compact and cleaner looking even though i'll never(hopefully) see them again.
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post #29 of 43 Old 01-25-2017, 01:09 PM - Thread Starter
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So i was hoping to do my crossover to look like this one, but I just want reassurance that it's okay in this sort of layout.




It seems different than this schematic I see popping up.





Help? Haha. I'd prefer to do the nodal as i'm not exactly sure how i'd bridge them together all spread out like that otherwise.

Edit: I figured out where i'm tripped up by the bottom one. It looks to me like the 100uF and the 10 Ohm are on the wrong sides right? The 100uF should be on the positive side of the woofer with the 10 Ohm on the negative side...I think.

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post #30 of 43 Old 01-27-2017, 01:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Tested the first of my crossover's last night. Just need to solder the leads to the second one tonight and get started on the cabinet.

It just struck me though. I completely forgot about screws for mounting the woofer/tweeter. What size screws do I need for this?!
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