Originally Posted by JVoth
1. Do I solder the wires connecting the driver to the speaker connector? I've seen people use these little connectors that I can buy pretty much anywhere but I ordered a soldering iron and stuff. I haven't soldered since I was in the Air Force and I figured, what the hell, it'll be fun. I think I may have wasted my money though. Somebody can let me know one or the other I guess.
2. Clamps. I have a few but they're light duty stuff. How many real clamps will I need and what sizes?
3. I started with a iNuke 3000 with the built in DSP for my amp. Got a good B-Stock deal. Will that be a enough for both subs?
4. If, not I guess I can just buy another one and bridge them. But if I do that, will that be too much power?
I'm not sure I want to associate with anyone with anything less than 24" drivers, but until I make a final determination on this point, consider the following:
1. Don't solder. Mechanical attachment of spades, eyelets or bare wire depending on the driver inputs
2. It depends. If you have the little square corner clamps to get perfect 90 degree angles after gluing the edges, you *could* use a standard 16 gauge finish nail gun and work your away along the seam by feel. It holds extremely well and acts as a clamp every few inches. If you want to use clamps, it depends on how many pieces you want to glue up at any one time and the box size. For a single project, borrow the clamps from someone who can spare them a few days.
3. Yes, plenty. Generally speaking, most of the time subs chuff along under 100-150 watts at normal listening levels, 300-500 watts when loud and over 500 for obscene house shaking. Continuous loads are only ever present with sine waves and other test signals, not in everyday use.
4. Law of diminishing returns to add a second. Yes it gives you more overhead, but to what end if you aren't exploring the full potential of just one amp?