Dual Ultimax 15 Build - Will Need Advice - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 18 Old 01-31-2017, 04:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Dual Ultimax 15 Build - Will Need Advice

This will be my first DIY sub build. I've been wanting to do this for a year or so and I finally decided to sell my SVS cylinders and give it a shot. I wanted to go with 18's but duals were a little out of my budget. I ordered the flat packs and sub combo from Parts-Express along with Speakon connectors, wires, etc. I have questions.

1. Do I solder the wires connecting the driver to the speaker connector? I've seen people use these little connectors that I can buy pretty much anywhere but I ordered a soldering iron and stuff. I haven't soldered since I was in the Air Force and I figured, what the hell, it'll be fun. I think I may have wasted my money though. Somebody can let me know one or the other I guess.

2. Clamps. I have a few but they're light duty stuff. How many real clamps will I need and what sizes?

3. I started with a iNuke 3000 with the built in DSP for my amp. Got a good B-Stock deal. Will that be a enough for both subs?

4. If, not I guess I can just buy another one and bridge them. But if I do that, will that be too much power?
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post #2 of 18 Old 01-31-2017, 06:49 PM
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I would NOT recommend soldering the connections. Use either bare wire or spade connectors. You'll want to be able to remove everything easily if need be.

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post #3 of 18 Old 01-31-2017, 07:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Rowan611 View Post
I would NOT recommend soldering the connections. Use either bare wire or spade connectors. You'll want to be able to remove everything easily if need be.
Okay great. Thanks. I may be able to send that stuff back. If not, oh well. I'll find something to solder.

I just read about gasket tape. Do I need that?
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post #4 of 18 Old 01-31-2017, 07:12 PM
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Okay great. Thanks. I may be able to send that stuff back. If not, oh well. I'll find something to solder.

I just read about gasket tape. Do I need that?
Yes. You want a air tight seal. I'd do it even if the driver doesn't call for it.

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post #5 of 18 Old 01-31-2017, 07:29 PM
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If you want a secure connect that is still removable then you could solder from the binding posts to an eye-crimp to a terminal strip screw.
Same thing on the side going to the driver, except don't solder the wire to the driver, its binding post is more than good enough for bare wire.
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post #6 of 18 Old 02-01-2017, 02:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Okay great. So we got past my first question and my added question about gasket tape. I guess I do have an add-on to that one though. Will the gasket tape make it to where the driver will not sit flush in the recess?

Also, what about my other questions. Any thoughts?
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post #7 of 18 Old 02-01-2017, 05:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JVoth View Post
1. Do I solder the wires connecting the driver to the speaker connector? I've seen people use these little connectors that I can buy pretty much anywhere but I ordered a soldering iron and stuff. I haven't soldered since I was in the Air Force and I figured, what the hell, it'll be fun. I think I may have wasted my money though. Somebody can let me know one or the other I guess.

2. Clamps. I have a few but they're light duty stuff. How many real clamps will I need and what sizes?

3. I started with a iNuke 3000 with the built in DSP for my amp. Got a good B-Stock deal. Will that be a enough for both subs?

4. If, not I guess I can just buy another one and bridge them. But if I do that, will that be too much power?
I'm not sure I want to associate with anyone with anything less than 24" drivers, but until I make a final determination on this point, consider the following:
1. Don't solder. Mechanical attachment of spades, eyelets or bare wire depending on the driver inputs
2. It depends. If you have the little square corner clamps to get perfect 90 degree angles after gluing the edges, you *could* use a standard 16 gauge finish nail gun and work your away along the seam by feel. It holds extremely well and acts as a clamp every few inches. If you want to use clamps, it depends on how many pieces you want to glue up at any one time and the box size. For a single project, borrow the clamps from someone who can spare them a few days.
3. Yes, plenty. Generally speaking, most of the time subs chuff along under 100-150 watts at normal listening levels, 300-500 watts when loud and over 500 for obscene house shaking. Continuous loads are only ever present with sine waves and other test signals, not in everyday use.
4. Law of diminishing returns to add a second. Yes it gives you more overhead, but to what end if you aren't exploring the full potential of just one amp?
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post #8 of 18 Old 02-01-2017, 05:48 AM
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I power both of my sealed Dayton HO 18's with an Inuke 3000 DSP and its plenty of power. Sure it could use more, but it sounds awesome to me.
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post #9 of 18 Old 02-01-2017, 06:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JVoth View Post
Okay great. So we got past my first question and my added question about gasket tape. I guess I do have an add-on to that one though. Will the gasket tape make it to where the driver will not sit flush in the recess?

Also, what about my other questions. Any thoughts?
The gasket tape will compress. It shouldn't change how the driver sits in the recess. At least, not enough to matter, IMHO.

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post #10 of 18 Old 02-01-2017, 03:46 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post
I'm not sure I want to associate with anyone with anything less than 24" drivers


Quote:
Originally Posted by Rowan611 View Post
The gasket tape will compress. It shouldn't change how the driver sits in the recess. At least, not enough to matter, IMHO.
Quote:
Originally Posted by chadsmith013 View Post
I power both of my sealed Dayton HO 18's with an Inuke 3000 DSP and its plenty of power. Sure it could use more, but it sounds awesome to me.
TMcG, the guilt trip won't work my man! But seriously guys, thanks for all the info. I'm assuming for the cabinet I will need wood filler and sand paper. What grit?
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post #11 of 18 Old 02-01-2017, 05:25 PM
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Not wood filler. I use vinyl spackle. For grit, I'd start at 180 and work your way up. I try to stay away from grit below 180. I recommend doing many lighter layers of spackle. I find that's how it works best.

Typed on a little keyboard, excuse any grammatical errors.
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post #12 of 18 Old 02-02-2017, 02:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Okay so far I've ordered this:

Subs and drivers
Amp
2 Chassis Mount Speakon Connectors
3/16" Fully insulated female disconnect
2 Speakon cables from Monoprice
2 Female RCA to Male XLR adapters
Soldering stuff - I guess I can keep that if I want to do fan upgrades and all that on the amp. It was cheap so what the hell.
1/8" x 1/2" Gasket tape
Rubber feet

Things I'll get from the hardware store or Best Buy:
1. screws to mount the drivers
2. Wood glue
3. Possibly 14 gauge speaker wire for the driver - I may have some
4. Nuts bolts and washers for the rubber feet
5. 10 lbs. of poly fil
6. Vinyl spackle
7. Paint and primer
8. A few clamps

I know it's a lot to look over, but does that look like I've got everything covered?
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post #13 of 18 Old 02-02-2017, 10:18 AM
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How are you on other hardware? You'll need to drill the hole for the speakon chassis mount.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bosch-Dar...1012/203274558

Are you sanding by hand? Orbital sander?
Using a router at all for sharp edges?

Quote:
Originally Posted by JVoth View Post
Okay so far I've ordered this:
8. A few clamps
I bought two 36", four 30" and four 12" clamps from Harbor Freight and it was just enough for a single 18" Ultimax. So if you ever have plans to build fronts or surrounds and don't want to do them one by one, I'd get a ton of clamps. I'm starting a 1099 LCR in the Spring so I'm going back to stock up on clamps.
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post #14 of 18 Old 02-02-2017, 11:44 AM
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I seem to say this in every thread, but...



(not my clamp rack, but I'd be OK if it was)

Honestly, I'd go for at least 4 that will fit the longest dimension you have to clamp, but 6 would be better, and 8 would be even better. Being able to apply uniform pressure across whatever surface you're clamping is nice, but usually with 4 clamps you can get the job done, especially if you have assistance from brad nails, or sometimes weighted objects.

One thing to consider is that a "helper clamp" going perpendicular to the direction you're actually applying the force can keep panels from sliding out of alignment when you apply force (eg lining up square edges and joints, and holding them in place horizontally while you clamp vertically, if that makes sense).

They're usually on sale somewhere, and you can get by with inexpensive ones for projects like this, just don't overtighten too much.
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post #15 of 18 Old 02-02-2017, 12:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pheenan View Post
How are you on other hardware? You'll need to drill the hole for the speakon chassis mount.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bosch-Dar...1012/203274558

Are you sanding by hand? Orbital sander?
Using a router at all for sharp edges?



I bought two 36", four 30" and four 12" clamps from Harbor Freight and it was just enough for a single 18" Ultimax. So if you ever have plans to build fronts or surrounds and don't want to do them one by one, I'd get a ton of clamps. I'm starting a 1099 LCR in the Spring so I'm going back to stock up on clamps.
Good on drills, compressors, brad nailer, etc.
I have a palm sander. I wasn't planning on buying an orbital. How much sanding would I need to do? I was thinking just edges that will have spackling. I was looking to keep this project on the simple side. I probably won't be breaking out the router. I was going to sand the joints, prime the boxes, then paint, then mount everything.
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post #16 of 18 Old 02-06-2017, 04:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Went to HD and Lowe's this weekend and picked up clamps, spackle, etc.

Got my first shipment in today - Flat packs, drivers and the rubber feet.

It's not anything new to you guys here but here's one of the drivers



It's a lot beefier than I imagined. I'll start on the flat packs tomorrow.
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Last edited by JVoth; 02-06-2017 at 04:46 PM.
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post #17 of 18 Old 02-11-2017, 06:35 AM - Thread Starter
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Got one finished. Man, these are a lot more work than I realized. Maybe it's because I've never done it before. I'm hoping if/when I get DIY LCR's, that those will be a little easier since I've got a little more experience and confidence now. I'm not much of a wood working guy and I realized that after I started spackling and sanding the first box. The second box didn't get the same treatment. They're going behind a screen. They're flat black. They're good.



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post #18 of 18 Old 02-17-2017, 02:57 AM - Thread Starter
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Subs are in place behind my screen wall. Well, they have been for several days to be honest. They aren't pretty and I don't think I care much. These things are beasts. I haven't tuned them because Room EQ Wizard was being difficult the other day but I will say these subs are phenomenal. I will tune them this weekend if I can get REW to work right with HDMI.





Also, these guys weren't playing around about the fan noise on these Behringer amps. They are insanely loud. My wife was even annoyed by it. I switched it out with a Cooler Master fan and it was such a huge difference. It's almost inaudible. I watched a bunch of bass heavy demo scenes last night on a couple of demo discs that I've picked up over the years, including the opening scene on Live, Die, Repeat, and the amp never even got warm.


Thanks guys for all the advice!
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