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Folks who have cut their own speaker cabinets, what kind of saw did you use?

7K views 53 replies 26 participants last post by  Oval56 
#1 ·
Hi,

For those of you who have cut and assembled their own cabinets for speakers or subwoofers, what type of saw did you use?

I'd like to buy just one, as cheap as possible (but still powered) that will allow me to make straight cuts. I already have an angle grinder and jigsaw, but making straight cuts with them is impractical and not exactly what they were designed for.

So on my first ever DIY project, I had to enlist the help of a carpenter who messed up a bit and forced me to spend a few hours fixing his errors.

So next time, I wanna do it all by myself. If I was to get just one type of saw, what should it be?
It also should be as portable as possible (so massive table saws are not an option).

Thanks!
 
#2 ·
I downsized my table saw to a portable, the dewalt with wheels. The fence depth is a key consideration but the portable saws have come a long way in that department. The dewalt has plenty of power for me and the only thing people cite to choose the bosch is the soft start, makes no difference to me and after using the saw I was surprised anyone cares. The dewalt is very well designed and user friendly and iirc has the largest fence capacity, and the wheeled model has more depth to the table which is important with large panels. The table size is really the biggest drawback to portable saws but to me the dewalt is a good compromise.

Oh, and gravity rise is fine (and I have a chop saw stand from bosch) but the legs on the dewalt work fine too and I think the folded saw is more compact iirc.
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#3 ·
#4 ·
One thing I've realized also helps. When dealing with 3/4 MDF, it's far too awkwardly heavy for one person to deal with on a table saw. Have Lowe's/home depot chop that baby in half if you can. Or buy 4x4 sheets instead of 4x8. Trying to hold up a 4x8 sheet on a table saw, while feeding it, and trying to keep it flat against the fence needs more than 2 arms.

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#5 ·
Hi,



For those of you who have cut and assembled their own cabinets for speakers or subwoofers, what type of saw did you use?



I'd like to buy just one, as cheap as possible (but still powered) that will allow me to make straight cuts. I already have an angle grinder and jigsaw, but making straight cuts with them is impractical and not exactly what they were designed for.



So on my first ever DIY project, I had to enlist the help of a carpenter who messed up a bit and forced me to spend a few hours fixing his errors.



So next time, I wanna do it all by myself. If I was to get just one type of saw, what should it be?

It also should be as portable as possible (so massive table saws are not an option).



Thanks!


I have used a couple different types of saws for my builds. While a table saw might be ideal for ripping boards or making long cuts, I can make due with a circular saw and a guide. Recently, I bought a track system that I can connect to my circular saw and a sheet of wood up to 8 feet long that works well, but is unnecessary. The saw that I use most for my cabinet and furniture builds is a 12" Dual Bevel Sliding Compound Miter Saw (mine is Dewalt). It's great for right angle cuts, bevels, miter joints (or any angled cuts), and cross-cutting/ripping anything up to about 16" in width. If you are careful, you can basically cut up to double that width if you flip the board around. So, if I had to pick one, that's probably what it would be. You can have the store cut your wood down to manageable sized pieces and do the rest with the miter saw. A router has also come in handy for doing edges, trim, and hole cutouts.

Of course I'm always looking for reasons to buy more tools, so my opinion may change over time as my shop continues to grow.


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#6 ·
I haven't made any speakers yet, but I have a fair bit of woodworking experience. In my opinion, the most cost effective solution for cutting sheet goods is a quality circular saw paired with a track guide, commonly called a "tracksaw" (google it). I use the EZ Smart system.
 
#7 ·
I used a standard circular saw (it was a DeWalt, but any will work) and a metal straight edge. In my case I already had a 2 foot long metal L-square so I just used that and manually clamped it on each end. I have a table saw, but I find that it gets out of adjustment relatively easily, so I rarely use it for precision cuts. If you do decide on a table saw make sure you buy a well-respected brand!

A lot of guys use an actual clamp designed for making straight cuts. Something like a "Bora Clamping Straight Edge Saw Guide" (ex. Bora 543050). There are lots of brands of these, but that should give you a good starting point. It will be hard to do the full 8 foot length, but I agree with others that without help it is pretty hard to manage a full 4x8 of 3/4" MDF. Buying the precut 4x4 or even the 2x4 can save a lot of time. If you are looking at building subwoofers the MartySubs (Easy Button Subs) were actually designed to be built from the 2x4 pre-cut panels!

Oh, and cut it outside! MDF makes a ton of nasty dust.
 
#8 ·
OK so, a few things:

1. I'm not from the US, so no Lowe's or Home Depot. The equivalent stores we have here will not cut panels for you, but maybe they have smaller panels (that are less value for money, probably).

2. None of you mentioned any models. :( You mentioned Bosch, DeWalt.

3. The link for the Kobalt saw doesn't work for some reason (access denied). Is it available on Amazon.co.uk (I need 230v)?

4. Regarding max width of cutting on table saws, my subwoofer is almost a square so the panels are all at least 19.7". Can these table saws cut such widths? Circular saws seem less limited in this regard, because the working space is theoretically unlimited.

5. I discovered this very compact-looking Rockwell BladeRunner X2, however it's only sold with a 110v motor, which is a real shame. Shipping cost from Amazon.com wasn't even that bad for such a machine. The transformer I'd have to use is probably not cheap, since power tools do love nice electric currents. Also, dunno about it's width limitation. While I only have DIY speakers in mind at the moment, perhaps I'll want to build another sub sometime and I don't want to discover I spend some good money on yet another tool that can't do the job.
 
#12 ·
A circular saw with track is a decent alternative to a table saw. I have an old porter cable with a cast base that is very flat and you should look at the base as the stamped ones flex and won't be as accurate. I would not get a black and Decker. Porter, bosch, dewalt, makita are the brands to look at.

There is only one dewalt with wheels so there you go. Table saws are more accurate and if you're really obsessive you can try to do all your same dimension cuts without moving the fence so that they all are exactly the same size. Not always practical but in general a table saw will be more accurate. Depends on what you're after in terms of accuracy

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#13 ·
The most useful thing to have is a fairly large, sturdy workbench/table. I have a sturdy 4x8 work table. With a circular saw, a couple of C-clamps and some leftover siding as a fence, I can can cut almost anything accurately. I'm thinking about cutting an opening on one end of the table for a removable router table insert.

Although the cheaper saws can work OK, the better circular saws use worm-drive motors, instead of just an induction-motor drive. This becomes more important if you're cutting hardwood plywood instead of MDF -- and vital if you need to score/cut some concrete around the house.
 
#37 · (Edited)
you can make your own track for any circular saw. It's pretty accurate. Just make sure you use stiff boards that are straight and don't flex.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=thddTmC6nr4
^^This was my first guide 40 years ago!^^

I used 1/4" luan plywood to make it with because it is stable and will not warp.

Well, for the price of a cheap circular saw (Evolution Rage/Fury) + Korg Rip Cut, I could buy this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/BUILDER-BD...UTF8&qid=1486367016&sr=8-3&keywords=track+saw

I don't know this brand though, and it's suspiciously cheap for a track saw. Unless a plunge saw is not really a track saw?

Also, how do you cut parallel to the wood board with this? With the Kreg Rip Cut, it seems easy.

Both of these options are quite good if you are patient with your layout.

I started with the hand made guide for many years before I went through a full shop of large cabinet mounted saws and tools then Panel saw and now back to the simple Festool setups because size and the dust collection is far superior and I value my lungs after being a smoker for 25+ years! ;)

A good sharp blade will help with accuracy.

You might opt for Baltic Birch and heavy bracing since you need to cut inside (the dust will be more tolerable than MDF).

Always measure from, the same if possible, edge of the sheet so that you are working from a factory edge all the time.

Festool uses a foam tape on the bottom of their tracks so they do not slide around, you may be able to add this to any track you use or there may be enough room to "C" clamp a hand made guide if you make it wide enough to clear the motor of your circ saw.

Try to cut the same width panel cut if you have repeatable settings like a table saw, ie the depth of the box will likely have the same width for the top, bottom and sides.

Buy some cheap plywood and test your skills first so that you get comfortable with whatever you decide to go with. Get a good shop vac and maybe try to attach the hose to your tool to keep dust down to a minimum and wear a mask and eye protection! :)

These are just a few of the items to get you thinking about your process! ;)
 
#19 ·
Definitely out of my budget, but it sure looks like a beast. I like the clean look as well; nothing is exposed.

Regarding cast bases, I think I found two models a bit above my budget, but perhaps they're worth it. They're Makita 5806B and Makita 5704RK. I think these have cast base. Their bases are black and seem to be just one solid piece and not a few pieces connected together (is this the meaning of "cast"?).

Let me know if I'm correct or not.

Thanks again.
 
#20 ·
Both those Makitas are stamped.

Stamped metal is just a sheet of metal that is pressed and folded to shape. Cast is formed into it's final shape from molten metal.

I like my Hitachi C7SB2, but there are many good choices out there.

BTW, I'd love to have a table saw for this work, but I just don't have the space for one. Circular saw and a straight edge is a good space saving substitute.
 
#22 ·
Wow, that Hitachi is very affordable at just 70 US dollars. Too bad it's not sold by Amazon themselves on any of the European amazon websites, as I need the 230v version and third party sellers will not ship to my country.
The 5007MG is 110v only, and more than twice the cost of the Hitachi.

I'll keep looking for that affordable cast base saw.
 
#21 ·
If this is a first time tool purchase, consider use, storage and set up of any system before purchase.

A circular saw, mated to a premium guide system, can be easily stored, moved and set up. Portable folding saw horses with a sacrificial top installed is pretty much all you need. It can be transported in a car, with ease. You can even cut on a piece of rigid foam on the ground if you need to.

You can go real cheap and get a guide to cut beside, but these are truly not the best. No chip out protection, and they tend to deflect sideways when in the middle of a large cut. Support of the fibers beside the cut is important if you want the best results, similar to a table saw with a zero clearance insert.

A quality saw like the Makita 5007MG ( magnesium cast base ) or the MGA ( same, with electric brake ) mated with the 108" track saw kit from Eurekazone ( EZ Smart ) is pretty much all you need if you want to cut up sheet goods. Of course, if there is more money in the budget, get yourself the UEG ( universal edge guide ) and a few replacement parts, such as the anti-chip inserts.

Note, in the EZ Smart system, the plastic base rides on a ridge on the aluminum guide, it is low friction and cuts are accurate, easily as mark, clamp, saw. The anti-chip inserts require trimming before use with your particular saw blade, as they all differ in width. Once trimmed, they indicate the 'cut line'.

Mounting the base on your saw, you have to drill and tap some holes. A bit of 2 way tape and clamps help out here. Ensure the saw blade ( replace the stock 24T blade with a Freud Diablo 40T plywood blade ) is set at 90 degrees to the base, a small square helps out here.
 
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#25 ·
We have "Home Center" and "Ace" here in Israel, and neither will cut you any wood.

You have to know someone in the construction trade over there, ask them! If you don't, go down to the pub around 5 pm and make some new friends lol
Sadly I know none, and I go to no pubs. :)

-------

Is this a cast base? The angle thingy sure looks beefy and I don't see any screws holding it to the rest of the base.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Power-Sa...047&sr=1-25-spons&keywords=circular+saw&psc=1
 
#26 ·
I have a tablesaw but don't use it for most cuts. My ten foot track from menards for $60 was best $60 I've ever sent. Make two marks, clamp it down, rip it. Perfect straight cuts every time. Also like others have said, do not cut this crap inside, that would be horrible.
 
#27 ·
You can make a speaker box with nothing more than a decent jigsaw.

Following a line with a jigsaw simply requires patience.

It will be slower than other saws but if you're only building a couple small boxes it will be fine. The cuts don't need to be perfect. A pencil line wiggle won't matter if you use PL construction adhesive. When you're done run a bead of PL on the inside seams.

If you plan to use regular wood glue your cuts will need to be better.

Picking the right blade is important. A medium tooth works best. Usually marked fast and clean.

Long cuts will be slow, but what else do you have to do? A few extra minutes won't change your day.
 
#28 ·
I started out with a circular saw (Hitachi) and a straightedge, it will get you there, but not very practical, or accurate (depending on you offcourse, but really easy to leave the guide)


Then i moved on to a table saw (green Bosch), and actually built a Lilwrecker with it in plywood, the saw itself is really good, but its difficult with full 8x4 plywood sheets on it and full MDF 3/4" would be impossible alone, MAYBE doable for 2 persons, and you will have to know what you are doing. For smaller things its great.


Last i bought a tracksaw (Festool) with 2x1400mm tracks and the only regret i have is not buying it first, what an amazing tool! I can now cut sheets faster, easier and FAR more precise than ever before. Also the dust collection is superior to anything else i have tried, 99% of the dust goes in the vacuumcleaner.


The Festool will be out of the price range you are looking at, however you can get a decent tracksaw way cheaper.


Take a look at the British websites as they ship worldwide, i suppose they will ship to Israel aswell, voltage is optional, but i guess you will have to change the socket. (no idea what you are using there)


http://www.mtmc.co.uk/default.aspx
http://www.toolstop.co.uk/
http://www.axminster.co.uk/
 
#29 ·
#30 ·
A plunge saw is basicly a sircular saw that is not fixed in cutting depth, but dives in to the material (you set how deep it goes) every time you make a cut, on a traditional circular saw the depth is also adjustable, but "fixed" when you make the cut, theese have a retractable protection.
Both can run on tracks, but must have a base thats prepared for guiderails.


By parallel cut, do you mean to cut in to the edge of the plate? Not shure why you want to do that, but it is possible with both a plunge and a circular saw, but for that specific cut i would prefer the circular.


This http://www.toolstop.co.uk/scheppach...-2-x-700mm-guide-rails-and-rail-connec-p64140 should be a really good saw for the price according to reviews, i have not tried it myself though.


This video shows the benefits of a plunge saw with guide rails:


 
#31 · (Edited)
By parallel, I think I mean perpendicular. Not sure if that's the word. The rail forced the saw to follow a line more accurately, but is there a way to attach the rail itself in a perfectly straight way?

The model I linked at 99 GBP is the most I can afford. Do you think it's a good buy, or should I opt for a circular saw with a separate rail system (Kreg Rip Cut)?

Edit: I contacted Evolution, maker of the Fury and Rage saws, and they said their saws are not compatible with rail systems such as the Kreg Rip Cut. That means these 50 GBP saws are no longer an option, so it's either a Bosch/Makita for 100 GBP + 40 GBP for the Kreg system, or just the BUILDERS' Plunge Saw for 100 GBP (it comes with a 1 meter rail).

What do you think?
 
#38 ·
By parallel, I think I mean perpendicular.
Get a carpenter's square for perpendicular lines.

I think you're overthinking this. You don't need perfect accuracy. As long as you are reasonably close, you'll be fine. Any circular saw, a DIY track, two clamps and a sharp pencil line will give you enough accuracy for any build. Everything else you buy just makes things more convenient.
 
#32 ·
Before I was bequeathed a full size panel saw
I did manage with using a circular saw, table saw and 8.5" 20 y.o. chop saw. saber saw
I had an 8' clamp-on straight edge, also a 50" and 36".
I built 3 BFM THTLP's, about 9-10 sheets of plywood ripped the hard way.

good clamp on straight edges and a DIY trac .. .you'll get far
 
#33 ·
I have not used the Kreg system my self, but it seems to me that you attach the saw base to it with screws, meaning it will fit pretty much every saw.


The "normal" tracksaws have a groove in the base that will follow tracks of that manufacturers system, some can be mixed, some cannot.


All though the Kreg system looks ok, i think it is to short to be practical, i would like to have a minimum cutting length of 240cm (8´)


Maybe a green Bosch is plenty for you? I suppose you wont use this 24/7, so it should be plenty:
http://www.mtmc.co.uk/Power-Tools--...ular-Saw__p-269160-269170-12732067-76465.aspx


This saw is prepared for guide rail, so you can add that when you can afford it, and use a straight edge up till then.
I am not shure, but i think atleast the blue Bosch have grooves for several tracksystems.
 
#34 ·
#35 ·
It depends on what you are going to use it for. If its most sheets for subs and speakers, definitly a tracksaw, it can do everything that a tablesaw can, and more precise. Also much easier on big sheets.
If you are cutting alot smaller things and/or repetetive cuts a table saw is better.
 
#39 ·
You know, I was already set on getting that 99 GBP track saw, but now I saw the thread in Rebel975's signature about the Fusion 12 build, and I see that the flat pack he got has bracing of a certain shape that I won't be able to make, so it makes me wonder if it's worth it to cut stuff on my own, despite the shipping cost of flat packs (in international shipping, every KG counts).
 
#40 ·
Yes it's still cheaper to cut stuff on your own.

You don't need to make the braces exactly like the flat pack. You can design the brace however you want.

Window brace, wooden dowels, etc. It doesn't matter as long as you brace it. Look at the martysub thread and you will see many different ways of bracing a box.
 
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