Quad submaximus v3 build thread - Page 2 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #31 of 463 Old 02-25-2017, 05:33 PM
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I would get at least 2 tubes per sub.

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post #32 of 463 Old 02-25-2017, 05:45 PM
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I do most of my building solo . .

when it was time to put on side 2,

I had 2 new tubes of pl3 in 2 caulk guns, ready to laydown about a 3/8th's bead down the center of each edge,
that's a good amount of lineal feet to have ready all at once,
and if you're going to be adding screws, you'll have laid them out. predrilled,
and a few clamps stop blocks, whaatever just to keep it from sliding out of spec . . .

as i recomended to Fattykidd,
I made side 2 about 1/2" larger all around, 30.5 x 80.5
I had my stop blocks all set so my screws, etc. would line up ofcourse
after the dust settled, use a trim router for the look of a perfect fit,
which no doubt you will do anyway . .

HTH
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L/R: Fusion 15 V2 , C: 88 Special , SL/SR: 88 Special(V2) , RL/RR: F-3, TF/TR: Volt 6's TM: SLX, FH: F4Q4
SUBMAXIMUS, ,Submaximus V3,LOWARHORNCustom Dual Driver VBSS,2 x Inuke6000DSP
www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1485120-submaximus-large-front-loaded-horn
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...orn-build.html
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post #33 of 463 Old 02-25-2017, 07:36 PM
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Just finding this thread. Can't wait to see the build and the final result. I think you should build 2-4 more to place underneath the theater.
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post #34 of 463 Old 02-25-2017, 08:24 PM
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How many are going in the attic space?

6 is the new 4


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post #35 of 463 Old 02-26-2017, 02:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by rlhaudio View Post
Jealous. I was going to build 2 but I'm running out of room. I'm already building new boxes for my QSC 2150's which will give me an extra 4 feet (wide) behind my screen. Still deciding if I want to hide both PA460 MBM or 4 SI-18" subs with the speakers. Once the weather cooperates I'll start on my subs. Either 2 Maximus v.3 or Tuba HT.
If I decide not to add seating to my riser, that opens up a lot of real estate for boxes. Not sure I need seating for 8 when its only the kids and I. I may actually add a bar area for the and/or adults to eat while a movie is playing. Leaving the seating area on the main floor. Ughh. decisions, decisions.
I'll be watching your build closely. Today its 22 degree, yesterday 68 lol Crazy arse weather..
Yeah this weather is crazy and I see its supposed to warm up again. I like the bar idea. I'm glad I did mine it is higher than I should have went because of my rear surrounds but it will be nice to have a area to eat or drink or just hang out at

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post #36 of 463 Old 02-26-2017, 02:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Brazle View Post
I seem to go through it faster than I expect. I'd probably start with at least two and unless you're close to the end, always have a new tube ready, I'd hate to run out of adhesive half way through a step.
OK thanks I'll just buy a bunch i can always use it on later sub builds and would enter want to run out midway through

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post #37 of 463 Old 02-26-2017, 02:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by asarose247 View Post
I do most of my building solo . .

when it was time to put on side 2,

I had 2 new tubes of pl3 in 2 caulk guns, ready to laydown about a 3/8th's bead down the center of each edge,
that's a good amount of lineal feet to have ready all at once,
and if you're going to be adding screws, you'll have laid them out. predrilled,
and a few clamps stop blocks, whaatever just to keep it from sliding out of spec . . .

as i recomended to Fattykidd,
I made side 2 about 1/2" larger all around, 30.5 x 80.5
I had my stop blocks all set so my screws, etc. would line up ofcourse
after the dust settled, use a trim router for the look of a perfect fit,
which no doubt you will do anyway . .

HTH
I'm trying to visualize where the stop blocks go sorry I'm sure it simple and I'm just not thinking it through

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post #38 of 463 Old 02-26-2017, 02:47 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by VicTorious1 View Post
Just finding this thread. Can't wait to see the build and the final result. I think you should build 2-4 more to place underneath the theater.
This isn't out of the question lol the garage is quite large under the theater it's 40 by 38

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post #39 of 463 Old 02-26-2017, 02:49 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by brian6751 View Post
How many are going in the attic space?

6 is the new 4


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Lol your definitely right 6 is the new four. You with six Jared with the ds4s I just sold now with 6. Why not build 2 more of these lol

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post #40 of 463 Old 02-26-2017, 04:34 AM
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Originally Posted by hd0823 View Post
Lol your definitely right 6 is the new four. You with six Jared with the ds4s I just sold now with 6. Why not build 2 more of these lol
I've got six 18s and to 12s, but that doesn't even compare to the submaximuses that you're building. After hearing Brian's room yesterday, I'm thinking of swapping the PB12s for one or two VBSS. Not sure what the SPL difference would be swapping to 12s for one VBSS. Might just do two though.
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post #41 of 463 Old 02-26-2017, 04:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by VicTorious1 View Post
I've got six 18s and to 12s, but that doesn't even compare to the submaximuses that you're building. After hearing Brian's room yesterday, I'm thinking of swapping the PB12s for one or two VBSS. Not sure what the SPL difference would be swapping to 12s for one VBSS. Might just do two though.
I really was impressed with the VBSS. I vote for 2 VBSS instead of the 12s

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post #42 of 463 Old 02-26-2017, 05:37 AM
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@hd0832

and other fellow adventurers

Here goes . . .
the case is done except for the final install of mouth bracing . . in progress and / or maybe TBD

my oversized side 2 fits with about 1/4” overhang all around.
I “even” it up with the bottom mouth piece I and the side A.
clamp it down. Maybe in 4- 6 places.

On the corner of A and F, I trim router along F for 6-8 inches.
It's a smooth tight corner

On the corner of F and and E, I trim router along F for 6-8 inches and along E for 6-8 inches.
It's a smooth tight corner.

In my thread there are some pics of those black plastic angle block things, from rockler.

On those 2 trimmed corners, A/F and F/E those pieces get screwed / secured to the faces of A, F and E. and in effect, keep side B from any other placement except to nestle in against the portion, about 1/2”+, sticking up/ poking up / positioned up past the top edges of A, F and E.

those are my stop blocks for side B placement.

Side B is tight and even with sides A, and I.

The 2 corners A/F and F/E are tight, even and will make side B self align.

From there I laid out the screws to go thru Side B into the interior upper edge sections of panels B, C, D that I can't get to any other way

I will pre-drill kreg holes to go up from the inside of the chamber into side B where it hits on the upper edges of panels B, D, G, H.

you don't necessarily need to have the access panel sizing exact at this point, just a hole big enough to let you get in there to tighten the kreg screws and check the PL3 squeeze out.

Of course many could /would lay out and just plunk a bunch of screws thru side B into all the edges,

I may not be that good a wood bender or it's the DIY OCD/ overkill thing kicking in, .

Hope that makes a picture you can follow / expand upon.

You're gonna F'n love it.



What?
you're not done yet?
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SUBMAXIMUS, ,Submaximus V3,LOWARHORNCustom Dual Driver VBSS,2 x Inuke6000DSP
www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1485120-submaximus-large-front-loaded-horn
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post #43 of 463 Old 02-26-2017, 11:53 AM - Thread Starter
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That definitely helps me visualize the process better I'm sure I'll be shooting you and fatty kidd pms through the build

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post #44 of 463 Old 02-26-2017, 12:31 PM
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@hd0823

for my build,

I also had all the kreg holes pre-drilled on the outside top edge of panels A, E,F and I to go up into side B.

some of the structural pros here may smile to themselves and think, typical amateur overkill and doesn't realize the power of the PL3 , etc.

guilty as charged
but I'm not in it for the money /livelihood
DIY is a very satisfying pursuit, creative, fun, uses your resources , makes you think
you can have what you want, eventually, and the ROI for a 1-off like a V3 or many of the other over the top goodies around AVS is OFY!

and now that we know a UM18 "works in the model"

you can be the first to give us the REW data that may inspire others to go ahead,
since UXL's are a rarity these days . .

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www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1485120-submaximus-large-front-loaded-horn
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post #45 of 463 Old 02-26-2017, 06:03 PM
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I've gone over the other threads, and this reinforcing/bracing is brilliant/needed , most should follow along (imo), particularly if not using BB...good stuff...=)

What do I care? ..I really don't, as infinite baffle is my drug of choice.
But if I had the room and gumption, I'd be building a v3, heeding my own advice here...

Actually, I love tube amps..
I play guitars through them.
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post #46 of 463 Old 02-26-2017, 06:52 PM - Thread Starter
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I've gone over the other threads, and this reinforcing/bracing is brilliant/needed , most should follow along (imo), particularly if not using BB...good stuff...=)

What do I care? ..I really don't, as infinite baffle is my drug of choice.
But if I had the room and gumption, I'd be building a v3, heeding my own advice here...
Yeah I'm going to be doing tons of bracing throughout

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post #47 of 463 Old 02-26-2017, 07:51 PM
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@hd0823

@Fattykidd did a really good job for the throat bracing, especially opposite the driver

that panel A is rather large and the force of the driver will give it a tangible vibe all over (ask me how i know?!)

he will have some good ideas for making that not an issue . . . .

DIY FAN Denon X5200 , ATI A 2000 for 7.4.6 SCATMOS/DSU/SHARP 80" LED/LCD
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www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1485120-submaximus-large-front-loaded-horn
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post #48 of 463 Old 02-26-2017, 07:55 PM
 
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If you think you have enough bracing... Add some more. It needs to be able to withstand a nuclear strike..
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post #49 of 463 Old 02-26-2017, 08:30 PM
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The original "suggestion" for the build, as you may have read, from @LTD02 ,
is for a double row everywhere, not necessarily full length of the panels , but close, snug, PL3'd and well anchored.

it could happen that an exuberant fitting of braces could cause some "sway/ bulging /movement of panel edges, especially those top edges where you want to keep the required spacing on spec.
the use of fixed spacers across the top edges will help prevent any movement while fitting braces

maybe a triple set from across from the driver and all up and down panel A

i posted some pics of my bracing for inside the chamber, remember it's supposed to be airtight so everything must have no flex. including the hatch cover

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www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1485120-submaximus-large-front-loaded-horn
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post #50 of 463 Old 02-26-2017, 09:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fattykidd View Post
If you think you have enough bracing... Add some more. It needs to be able to withstand a nuclear strike..
Like this.
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post #51 of 463 Old 02-27-2017, 06:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Fattykidd View Post
If you think you have enough bracing... Add some more. It needs to be able to withstand a nuclear strike..
This makes me all the more excited to get these things buit

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post #52 of 463 Old 02-27-2017, 07:17 AM - Thread Starter
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A few more questions did you guys use coarse or fine thread kreggs guessing coarse would a box of 1000 do for the 4 or would you get the box of 1200 or for like 40 more they have the box of 5000

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post #53 of 463 Old 02-27-2017, 09:18 AM
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the coarse 1 1/4" iirc


i'll check my box . .
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www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1485120-submaximus-large-front-loaded-horn
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...orn-build.html
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post #54 of 463 Old 02-27-2017, 09:30 AM - Thread Starter
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That's what I was thinking I've used a ton of them while building the theater and it was all 3/4 material also.

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post #55 of 463 Old 02-27-2017, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by hd0823 View Post
A few more questions did you guys use coarse or fine thread kreggs guessing coarse would a box of 1000 do for the 4 or would you get the box of 1200 or for like 40 more they have the box of 5000

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Coarse thread
I think we used about 150-200 per box (note: we screwed the last panel from the outside) @Fattykidd .... correct me if my memory is as bad as usual

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post #56 of 463 Old 02-27-2017, 11:39 AM
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a box of 1000 may seem like alot, and it is , even if you get generous to yourself for a stronger build

after close to 3 years of HT "improvement" I'm well into my 3rd box of 1000,
even with taking older stuff apart and re-using the screws . . after all they run about 3+ cents per . . .

but I use them also for building my clouds and I've been prolific
and as for the clouds,
when I bought my first box of 5000 staples, a pneumatic gun is the way to go for me,
I never would have thought I'd be well into my second box by now . . .

What could we do it we had an actual "plan"?

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SUBMAXIMUS, ,Submaximus V3,LOWARHORNCustom Dual Driver VBSS,2 x Inuke6000DSP
www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1485120-submaximus-large-front-loaded-horn
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...orn-build.html
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post #57 of 463 Old 02-27-2017, 11:51 AM
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@Fattykidd

in the opening scene of Unbroken, right after the bombs go off you can see that shock wave spread, like i a blink or 2
like ultrasonic or something

not unlike watching a nuclear test video, or that scene of the A blast in T2 (iirc)
same effect

that's why you need more / good bracing . . .

I can't believe what a single V3 can do.
maybe I need a better system tuning, but I can turn off my Lowarhorn and not miss it
or I could pull the driver and, for a mere $300 . .

4 V3's should be a good (temporary?) cure for up-grade-itis.

What do the sub designing Illuminati have waiting in the wings?

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SUBMAXIMUS, ,Submaximus V3,LOWARHORNCustom Dual Driver VBSS,2 x Inuke6000DSP
www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1485120-submaximus-large-front-loaded-horn
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...orn-build.html
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post #58 of 463 Old 02-27-2017, 12:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asarose247 View Post
a box of 1000 may seem like alot, and it is , even if you get generous to yourself for a stronger build

after close to 3 years of HT "improvement" I'm well into my 3rd box of 1000,
even with taking older stuff apart and re-using the screws . . after all they run about 3+ cents per . . .

but I use them also for building my clouds and I've been prolific
and as for the clouds,
when I bought my first box of 5000 staples, a pneumatic gun is the way to go for me,
I never would have thought I'd be well into my second box by now . . .

What could we do it we had an actual "plan"?
Yeah that's what I figured they want 40 for 1200 and 82 for 5000 . I know I'll eventually use them wouldn't make sense to go with the smaller my luck I would run out and have to order another 1200 and spend the same as if I just ordered the big pack in the first place. Bought 8 pl premiums today paid for the wood Saturday just need to go pick it up and kreg screw will be here tomorrow if I order through prime

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post #59 of 463 Old 02-27-2017, 12:49 PM
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don't forget to have some clear 2" package sealing tape to seal up the nozzle air tight between applications

really keeps it "fresher" for a few hours or until the next needed application . .

I had a tube be still ok after about 4 months, after I cleared the nozzle, using an ice pick

and the disposable gloves and rags

you can clean/ wipe PL3 off the disposable gloves with a rag if they get a bit gooey and you don't really want to stop the current assembly process . . like driving kreg screws.

I used a #7 setting using my Rigid cordless for a first tightening of the kregs,

and after a time, checked them all by hand, you know, just in case . . .

and a dab of pl into the pocket over the screw head

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post #60 of 463 Old 02-27-2017, 01:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asarose247 View Post
don't forget to have some clear 2" package sealing tape to seal up the nozzle air tight between applications

really keeps it "fresher" for a few hours or until the next needed application . .

I had a tube be still ok after about 4 months, after I cleared the nozzle, using an ice pick

and the disposable gloves and rags

you can clean/ wipe PL3 off the disposable gloves with a rag if they get a bit gooey and you don't really want to stop the current assembly process . . like driving kreg screws.

I used a #7 setting using my Rigid cordless for a first tightening of the kregs,

and after a time, checked them all by hand, you know, just in case . . .

and a dab of pl into the pocket over the screw head

I really like THESE kinda pricey but with the amount of caulk that I have not thrown away they have paid for themselves.... they are reusable


YES and lots of paper towel / rags...... PL gets every where

Also this tool works great for spreading PL
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