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Quad submaximus v3 build thread

72K views 722 replies 50 participants last post by  hd0823 
#1 ·
So after talking to a few members I've decided to scratch the idea of going with 6 ported boxes and am going to be building 4 submaximus v3s. I'll be starting this build sometime this week. I still have to go and pick up a ton of plywood for this. The plan is to have these layed down on there side and firing out the edge of the baffle wall . They will be stacked 2 on each side. This should be inte interesting it's my first sub build so I said might as well push myself. I'll keep pictures coming as I progress through the build


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#8 ·
Lol yeah you can never have to much bass . going this path is a win win for me as my room sits there is no visible speakers so this will keep everything hidden instead of having to mini Marty's by the rear bar. It is also saving Me about 750 dollars and is going to kill the output I would have got with the 6 ported boxes


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#12 ·
Yes...
And This is gonna be AWESOME. So happy you decided to follow through with this idea
 
#14 ·
Yeah the price sucks but if you buy 10 or more the price drops to 37 and than today's the last day for mensrds 11 percent sale so it's like 33 a sheet. So after I leave Brian's I'm going to go put the order in for 16 sheets. Probably go and pick them up tomorrow

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#15 ·
Yes 4 sheets each.
Gouie just left from picking up my 1099's.. Sad to see them go, but excited for titan's.
 
#18 ·
That's what I was looking for... 3/4 sander ply from home depot. It's the equivalent to the stuff I used from Rona in Canada. Real BB is nice stuff but doesn't come in sheets big enough to build these monsters.

The outer veneer is so thin on this stuff that if you have to sand any of your edges you'll burn through to the softer inner ply layers..

Lots of pl and a kreg jig will make assembly very easy.
Looking forward to following along here.
 
#20 ·
avoiding the voids without going to BB is tough

you "can" make panels of any size using PL and kregs for edge joining , just be sure to keep it all flat.
I've done that for an internal panel or 2, helps to do that in conjunction with how braces are planned

for me any voids get a goober of PL and I used sander ply

some 3/4" edges get covered/sealed in a thin layer of PL.

and have a box of disposable gloves.

my V2 and V3 seem to be plenty , for now

pics! we love pics!
 
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#21 ·
Definitely will be posting a bunch of pics. I should have the wood by tomorrow and am going to start cutting up all the panels. Should be easier by myself than using mdf. Cutting full sheets of mdf was a pain without someone else there.

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#22 ·
I fill voids with a squirt of regular wood glue, then I jam toothpicks in. Once dry trim off the exposed toothpicks. For thin voids you can squeeze the toothpicks with a pair of pliers to thin them down. Wood toothpicks at Walmart were 2 bucks for a big box.
 
#23 ·
Subscribing to thread for sure, should be great.
I hadn't seen the construction details until now, should be no problems with that plywood...
The amount of bracing at the mouth is substantial, right up against the driver housing wall.

These monsters are gonna move planets, particularly ones perched atop shoulders...:D
Lots of pics please..rock on!
 
#29 ·
Jealous. I was going to build 2 but I'm running out of room. I'm already building new boxes for my QSC 2150's which will give me an extra 4 feet (wide) behind my screen. Still deciding if I want to hide both PA460 MBM or 4 SI-18" subs with the speakers. Once the weather cooperates I'll start on my subs. Either 2 Maximus v.3 or Tuba HT.
If I decide not to add seating to my riser, that opens up a lot of real estate for boxes. Not sure I need seating for 8 when its only the kids and I. I may actually add a bar area for the and/or adults to eat while a movie is playing. Leaving the seating area on the main floor. Ughh. decisions, decisions.
I'll be watching your build closely. Today its 22 degree, yesterday 68 lol Crazy arse weather..
 
#35 ·
Yeah this weather is crazy and I see its supposed to warm up again. I like the bar idea. I'm glad I did mine it is higher than I should have went because of my rear surrounds but it will be nice to have a area to eat or drink or just hang out at

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#32 ·
I do most of my building solo . .

when it was time to put on side 2,

I had 2 new tubes of pl3 in 2 caulk guns, ready to laydown about a 3/8th's bead down the center of each edge,
that's a good amount of lineal feet to have ready all at once,
and if you're going to be adding screws, you'll have laid them out. predrilled,
and a few clamps stop blocks, whaatever just to keep it from sliding out of spec . . .

as i recomended to Fattykidd,
I made side 2 about 1/2" larger all around, 30.5 x 80.5
I had my stop blocks all set so my screws, etc. would line up ofcourse
after the dust settled, use a trim router for the look of a perfect fit,
which no doubt you will do anyway . .

HTH
 
#42 ·
@hd0832

and other fellow adventurers

Here goes . . .
the case is done except for the final install of mouth bracing . . in progress and / or maybe TBD

my oversized side 2 fits with about 1/4” overhang all around.
I “even” it up with the bottom mouth piece I and the side A.
clamp it down. Maybe in 4- 6 places.

On the corner of A and F, I trim router along F for 6-8 inches.
It's a smooth tight corner

On the corner of F and and E, I trim router along F for 6-8 inches and along E for 6-8 inches.
It's a smooth tight corner.

In my thread there are some pics of those black plastic angle block things, from rockler.

On those 2 trimmed corners, A/F and F/E those pieces get screwed / secured to the faces of A, F and E. and in effect, keep side B from any other placement except to nestle in against the portion, about 1/2”+, sticking up/ poking up / positioned up past the top edges of A, F and E.

those are my stop blocks for side B placement.

Side B is tight and even with sides A, and I.

The 2 corners A/F and F/E are tight, even and will make side B self align.

From there I laid out the screws to go thru Side B into the interior upper edge sections of panels B, C, D that I can't get to any other way

I will pre-drill kreg holes to go up from the inside of the chamber into side B where it hits on the upper edges of panels B, D, G, H.

you don't necessarily need to have the access panel sizing exact at this point, just a hole big enough to let you get in there to tighten the kreg screws and check the PL3 squeeze out.

Of course many could /would lay out and just plunk a bunch of screws thru side B into all the edges,

I may not be that good a wood bender or it's the DIY OCD/ overkill thing kicking in, .

Hope that makes a picture you can follow / expand upon.

You're gonna F'n love it.



What?
you're not done yet?
 

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#44 ·
@hd0823

for my build,

I also had all the kreg holes pre-drilled on the outside top edge of panels A, E,F and I to go up into side B.

some of the structural pros here may smile to themselves and think, typical amateur overkill and doesn't realize the power of the PL3 , etc.

guilty as charged
but I'm not in it for the money /livelihood
DIY is a very satisfying pursuit, creative, fun, uses your resources , makes you think
you can have what you want, eventually, and the ROI for a 1-off like a V3 or many of the other over the top goodies around AVS is OFY!

and now that we know a UM18 "works in the model"

you can be the first to give us the REW data that may inspire others to go ahead,
since UXL's are a rarity these days . .
 
#45 ·
I've gone over the other threads, and this reinforcing/bracing is brilliant/needed , most should follow along (imo), particularly if not using BB...good stuff...=)

What do I care? ..I really don't, as infinite baffle is my drug of choice.
But if I had the room and gumption, I'd be building a v3, heeding my own advice here...;)
 
#47 ·
@hd0823
@Fattykidd did a really good job for the throat bracing, especially opposite the driver

that panel A is rather large and the force of the driver will give it a tangible vibe all over (ask me how i know?!)

he will have some good ideas for making that not an issue . . . .
 
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