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post #1 of 18 Old 03-04-2017, 09:42 AM - Thread Starter
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Suggestion on replacement amp

It seems that I need a new amp, however, I am running into an issue where the amps I am finding are too small of cutout.

Current Amp: Rythmik Audio 320W RMS (Non-servo)
Cutout: 9" x 11"

All the amps on Parts Express seem to have much smaller cutout.

what should I do?
Any suggestions of where else to look?
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post #2 of 18 Old 03-04-2017, 09:57 AM - Thread Starter
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Could I possibly get an external amp like the iNuke?
If I did that, how do I deal with the old amp cutout? Can I just leave the old amp in there?
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post #3 of 18 Old 03-04-2017, 10:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nitz369 View Post
Could I possibly get an external amp like the iNuke?
If I did that, how do I deal with the old amp cutout? Can I just leave the old amp in there?

Yeah, you could use an Inuke, just leave the dead amp in there and wire up the Inuke directly to the sub. You could use Speakons or regular banana plugs for the enclosure connection. Get the Inuke with DSP so you can adjust things.

I just remembered Rythmik are usually servo subs so I don't think a regular amp will work. You would have to check into that. Probably not worth fixing for the cost of a new servo amp from Rythmik.

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Last edited by bscool; 03-04-2017 at 10:52 AM.
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post #4 of 18 Old 03-04-2017, 10:57 AM - Thread Starter
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Yeah, you could use an Inuke, just leave the dead amp in there and wire up the Inuke directly to the sub. You could use Speakons or regular banana plugs for the enclosure connection. Get the Inuke with DSP so you can adjust things.

I just remembered Rythmik are usually servo subs so I don't think a regular amp will work. You would have to check into that. Probably not worth fixing for the cost of a new servo amp from Rythmik.

My Rythmik amp is prior to them going Servo.

So I'm new to the iNuke world and I will read more about it. BUT quick question. Currently sub is behind couch connected to Receiver through in-wall coax. How do people run these external amps? Can I just have the amp next to the sub? or does the amp go next to the reciever? I take it the amp doesn't take regular speaker wire as input.
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post #5 of 18 Old 03-04-2017, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by nitz369 View Post
My Rythmik amp is prior to them going Servo.

So I'm new to the iNuke world and I will read more about it. BUT quick question. Currently sub is behind couch connected to Receiver through in-wall coax. How do people run these external amps? Can I just have the amp next to the sub? or does the amp go next to the reciever? I take it the amp doesn't take regular speaker wire as input.
Ok then it should work. Yeah you could just connect your exsisting RCA to this adapter http://www.markertek.com/product/xlm...-audio-adapter and that goes into the back of the Inuke amp.

Then cut in the box http://www.markertek.com/product/nl4...aker-connector then this to connect amp to sub http://www.markertek.com/product/nsp...n-speakon-3-ft

You could build cable too or just drill a hole in the box and seal it with sealant to do it cheap. Kind of a lot of money to invest to me. Plus the amp another $150+ guessing. You could buy a new sub. I take it is a really old model, new a $200 might outperform it.

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post #6 of 18 Old 03-04-2017, 12:43 PM - Thread Starter
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A new 15" sub, box and amp for $200?

I figured it was better to use the exitsing box anbd sub and just replace the amp. unless I am mistaken?

the Dayton DVC in this sealed box and been awesome for me.
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post #7 of 18 Old 03-04-2017, 02:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nitz369 View Post
A new 15" sub, box and amp for $200?

I figured it was better to use the exitsing box anbd sub and just replace the amp. unless I am mistaken?

the Dayton DVC in this sealed box and been awesome for me.
I thought it was a prebuilt Rythmik sub, because you said a Rythmik amp so I just assumed that.

HTPC, Sony 40es, 120" Silver Ticket, 7702mkii, Sunfire Amp 225w, JBL 590, JBL 520

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post #8 of 18 Old 03-04-2017, 03:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bscool View Post
I thought it was a prebuilt Rythmik sub, because you said a Rythmik amp so I just assumed that.
Oh yeah, my fault, I guess I didnt explain that.

15" Dayton DVC 80ohm
Sealed Box 3 Cubes
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post #9 of 18 Old 03-06-2017, 07:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Well I have done a bit more research. I have a few more unanswered questions:

Here is my sub:
http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-...oofer--295-190

Looks like 350W into 8ohm but I have it wired for 4 ohm. Can't find exact specs for RMS rating at 4ohm.

Would NU1000DSP power this just fine?
Seems like I would need to bridge the amp, how is bridging done? just with a switch or is it wiring change too?
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post #10 of 18 Old 03-06-2017, 09:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nitz369 View Post
Well I have done a bit more research. I have a few more unanswered questions:

Here is my sub:
http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-...oofer--295-190

Looks like 350W into 8ohm but I have it wired for 4 ohm. Can't find exact specs for RMS rating at 4ohm.

Would NU1000DSP power this just fine?
Seems like I would need to bridge the amp, how is bridging done? just with a switch or is it wiring change too?
Yeah the Inuke 1000 will work. Just wire it up like you have it now with the coils paralleled. On the Inuke you have to use 1+ and 2+ on the Speakon output A and set bridge mode in the amp setup menu or using the software on a laptop/computer. It is in the manual, go download it and look at it. You will only need to use input A on the back of the amp.

The Inukes can be confusing because being PA/Pro amp the differ from car audio or other audio amps.

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post #11 of 18 Old 03-17-2017, 08:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Okay I finally have everything, but damn! how do you connect the speaker wire to those terminals on the speakON connector? I bought some crimp pieces from Home Depot and they are way too big! I dont have solder equipment so I figured basic crimps would work. Where do you find crimp?
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post #12 of 18 Old 03-17-2017, 08:56 PM
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Are they not screw clamp connections?
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post #13 of 18 Old 03-17-2017, 08:58 PM - Thread Starter
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http://www.markertek.com/product/nl4...aker-connector

Looks like its meant for solder connections, but you should be able to use crimps, maybe just have to mess with the ones I have and just reshape them to fit right.
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post #14 of 18 Old 03-17-2017, 10:12 PM
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Oh, sorry, that's what I get from skimming some of the posts. I thought you were talking about the mating connector for speaker interconnects.

Yeah, I solder the connections. Don't recall the spade size on the last ones I used. Surely there is a crimp on female that fits well enough.
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post #15 of 18 Old 03-17-2017, 10:16 PM
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And if the ones you have are too wide, usually all that is needed is to flatten the connector more to make the fit tighter. If you start trying to squeeze the width in you can mess it up in a hurry. Works well enough, I'd do that for something temporary, something stationary, and/or something I can get to easily. Not sure I'd do that inside a vibrating sub enclosure.
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post #16 of 18 Old 03-17-2017, 11:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nitz369 View Post
http://www.markertek.com/product/nl4...aker-connector

Looks like its meant for solder connections, but you should be able to use crimps, maybe just have to mess with the ones I have and just reshape them to fit right.

You can use crimp connectors also. You just need to find the right size, something like this but you obviously don't need 50 of them It says the size of the flat tab in the product info 3/16"

http://www.parts-express.com/3-16-(1...0-pcs--095-287

The thing is it will be a tight fit if you use 12 gauge wire like most people use because the connectors that fit right are 14-16g but you can make it work or just use 14-16 gauge wire.

If I remember right they are TIGHT to get on the little flat tab. You might wanna take the connector with you to a hardware store when you buy some unless you make the ones work you have. I just know there is not much room so they need to fit tight and not move around. I soldered one I had for a sub and for another sub I just used the push on connectors to see how they work.

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Last edited by bscool; 03-18-2017 at 12:06 AM.
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post #17 of 18 Old 03-18-2017, 06:20 AM
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You can find 3/16" crimp terminals meant for 12AWG wire. Auto parts stores are usually a good place to look if you want to pick them up locally.
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post #18 of 18 Old 03-18-2017, 08:09 PM - Thread Starter
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You can find 3/16" crimp terminals meant for 12AWG wire. Auto parts stores are usually a good place to look if you want to pick them up locally.
Auto Parts store did it! Thanks!

It's all hooked up, slightly underwhelmed. Gotta play with it and learn how to use the DSP. BUT I have the level maxed and the amp in bridge mode and the power seems quite low. My 350W amp previously had the level at 25% with more output.

Hmmm...
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