First Build: Dual Parts Express Flat Pack Ultimax 18s - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 31 Old 03-04-2017, 12:29 PM - Thread Starter
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First Build: Dual Parts Express Flat Pack Ultimax 18s

Hey guys, just thought I would share. Working on building and finishing 2 flat packs from Parts Express. It'b my first build. I have a bar area in my home where we host a lot of parties, and just couldn't find enough bass. The space is about 20 x 30 x 8 but it opens into my theater on one side. Decided these 2 would be a good start. Going to power them with an Inuke 6000DSP.

I have 4 Klipsch RB61 IIs as the speakers. I am running them off of an Onkyo TX-NR809. We use all channel stereo during parties.

I have the first one primed, and about to finish it with Duratec.
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post #2 of 31 Old 03-04-2017, 12:46 PM
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Can't really go wrong with these for small boxes, except maybe building from scratch, but lots of folks just don't have the time/tools.

When you say primed though, what kind of primer are you using?
Reason is that MDF can really soak thin primer in on the cut/exposed edges (to no end) sometimes.

Anyway, hope you don't have issues with that, and happy bassing to you...

Actually, I love tube amps..
I play guitars through them.
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post #3 of 31 Old 03-04-2017, 12:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wreckingball View Post
Can't really go wrong with these for small boxes, except maybe building from scratch, but lots of folks just don't have the time/tools.

When you say primed though, what kind of primer are you using?
Reason is that MDF can really soak thin primer in on the cut/exposed edges (to no end) sometimes.

Anyway, hope you don't have issues with that, and happy bassing to you...
Not sure what brand the primer is, just some rattle can stuff. I am not a stickler for perfection, and I think once the Duratec is on there, it will be fine.

I can't wait to hear how these sound.
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post #4 of 31 Old 03-04-2017, 04:28 PM
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See, now I have never used Duratex, that's why I inquired about the primer because I don't know if the Duratex will sink into the MDF ends like regular/thin paint/primer will...

I wish someone else would chime in and set the record straight, would sure be a bummer to roll the Duratex and find it won't stay put on the surface, but sink in...

Stuff's expensive..

Actually, I love tube amps..
I play guitars through them.
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post #5 of 31 Old 03-04-2017, 04:51 PM
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How did the cabinet look once it's dry. The pictures you posted look like it's still wet. If you covered the entire cabinet evenly and there's no light and dark spots you should be good to go. I personally would roll on primer but if you only have the spray can go over it once more.
If you see a nice even coat apply the duratex. Just remember duratex takes some time to dry completely. It's going to seem like it's dry but it will be sticky for a few days from what I remember when using it.
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post #6 of 31 Old 03-04-2017, 05:15 PM
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Nice. I'll be starting my build in 2 weeks!

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post #7 of 31 Old 03-05-2017, 10:17 AM
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I'm looking forward to seeing the finished project and hearing your impressions. I've considered doing 2 sealed UM18's in my theater room. With room gain, it should do well and they take up a lot less space than something like a full Marty Cube. Although, I am not sure I will do either anymore, now that I added my Dayton Bass shakers to every seat. Still, I am very interested in your project. Good luck!
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post #8 of 31 Old 03-05-2017, 10:36 AM
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The UM-18's aren't designed for parties, they are designed for generating lots of low frequency bass <35hz.
(I'm sure it will be a lot louder than whatever you had prior though...)

In that price range, this driver would be better suited for parties:
http://www.parts-express.com/eminenc...river--290-427

Dance music is all in the 40-200hz range, where high-excursion drivers won't help you.

If you dance to this, the UM-18's will help you generate this 30hz bass...

If you dance to mid-bass stuff like this, then a number of Eminence, B&C or PA-460's would suit you better.

For dance music you want a woofer that has an impedance-peak in the 50-100hz range when box modelled, and a driver with the highest sensitivity and power-handling combination that you can find.
Then it will get loud and stay loud, without overheating or sounding weak.

The Eminence Sigma Pro 18a is about 8 times louder than the UM-18's at this task. You'd probably only need four of them.

For dual-purpose, you'd want to stay with the UM-18's though.
Unless you party more often than you watch movies... that is.
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post #9 of 31 Old 03-05-2017, 11:03 AM - Thread Starter
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Yeah great points. We do a lot of hip hop and electronic stuff, so the ums will be good. Also, coming from 2 psw505s, so these new guys will be a world of difference.
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post #10 of 31 Old 03-05-2017, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wreckingball View Post
See, now I have never used Duratex, that's why I inquired about the primer because I don't know if the Duratex will sink into the MDF ends like regular/thin paint/primer will...

I wish someone else would chime in and set the record straight, would sure be a bummer to roll the Duratex and find it won't stay put on the surface, but sink in...

Stuff's expensive..
As per the manufacturer, Duratex is self priming (and thick stuff). But a lot of folks will do a dark primer first to help the first cover coat.

When I did my PE boxes, I did 2 coats of 50/50 titebond and water to seal, then 2 coats of dark gray rolled-on Behr latex primer. The gray primer showed any imperfections that needed work and extra sanding before the Duratex went on. Then 3 coats of Duratex, and no seams are showing.
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post #11 of 31 Old 03-05-2017, 05:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkhome View Post
As per the manufacturer, Duratex is self priming (and thick stuff). But a lot of folks will do a dark primer first to help the first cover coat.

When I did my PE boxes, I did 2 coats of 50/50 titebond and water to seal, then 2 coats of dark gray rolled-on Behr latex primer. The gray primer showed any imperfections that needed work and extra sanding before the Duratex went on. Then 3 coats of Duratex, and no seams are showing.
Great information on the Duratex! Thanks a bunch!

Actually, I love tube amps..
I play guitars through them.
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post #12 of 31 Old 03-08-2017, 05:30 AM - Thread Starter
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First one is done, not perfect, but the next one will be better. Love new projects. Hope to have the 2nd one done today, and will get them hooked up and integrated Friday. (That's my old PSW505 next to it.)
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post #13 of 31 Old 03-08-2017, 05:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by webfart View Post
First one is done, not perfect, but the next one will be better. Love new projects. Hope to have the 2nd one done today, and will get them hooked up and integrated Friday. (That's my old PSW505 next to it.)
Good job! I'm sure you will love them. Give them time to break in, made a significant difference with my RSS460s.
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post #14 of 31 Old 03-10-2017, 09:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wreckingball View Post
Can't really go wrong with these for small boxes, except maybe building from scratch, but lots of folks just don't have the time/tools.

When you say primed though, what kind of primer are you using?
Reason is that MDF can really soak thin primer in on the cut/exposed edges (to no end) sometimes.

Anyway, hope you don't have issues with that, and happy bassing to you...
Thought I would share my experience with duratex and the need for primer....

I built 2 marty minis from MDF. I took the time to trench the seams, filled with water putty, and then sanded smooth. Next I coated the exposed cut edges with Binz shellac primer with several coats until it appeared they were no longer drinking up the primer. Next I applied one coat of primer to entire cabinet, sanded, another coat of primer, sand again. Then I applied 2 coats of duratex. Turned out great, can't see the seams at all.

After all that, I built 4 Volt-10 from DIYSG. This time, I just sanded the seams smooth with no other treatment. I applied duratex with no primer underneath. It took 3 coats to cover (rather than 2), but the finish looks the same. If you hold a bright light at a low angle to the surface and get your eyeballs a few inches away, you can BARELY notice a small line in the seams.

Was all that extra work over the course of several days on the martys worth it...NO WAY. I spent waaaaaaayyyyy to long finishing those. I had the volts done in 1 day. I rolled 1 coat of duratex before work. I came home for lunch and rolled another. Rolled the last coat after coming home from work that day. Each coat took me about 20-25 minutes for all 4 cabinets. Nobody is going to come into your house, hold a light at a very low angle to the cabs and get their eyeballs a few inches away to see the barely noticeable lines. If they do, tell em to "go pound sand".

Just my 2 cents

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post #15 of 31 Old 03-10-2017, 10:20 PM
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Three Dura coats as opposed to two with all that extra hassle? I'm sold.
Thanks for the info...

Actually, I love tube amps..
I play guitars through them.

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post #16 of 31 Old 03-10-2017, 10:45 PM
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I have a single sealed um18 in a 22x22x24 box and I love it. I came from a klipsch 12" and a ported klipsch dual 8", while you could hear the bass it pales in comparison. Your build looks really good!


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post #17 of 31 Old 03-17-2017, 08:03 AM
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post #18 of 31 Old 03-17-2017, 09:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Hey guys! Subs are all built and sound great. With the sub bass being so earth shattering, I realized that my midbass was really lacking. I am currently running a pair of Klipsch RB61 ii bookshelves, and they just don't hold up.

Last night I decided that I was going to build a pair of ported Volt 10LXs. Went ahead and ordered the kits and also a Crown XLI 1500 to give them the power they need/deserve.

I am really going for a "big" sound, and I think these Volts along with the UMs will accomplish this. I went with the COAX speakers due to the space I had available and felt they would be perfect for my bar.

I will keep everyone posted as to how that build goes. Meantime, here are the finished UM18s. I have them stacked currently, but will experiment with placement once the VOLTs are built.
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post #19 of 31 Old 03-17-2017, 09:38 AM
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Love your bar!

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post #20 of 31 Old 03-17-2017, 10:02 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks! We love it too, great for hosting parties. Hopefully the current direction I'm going will give me the sound I am looking for. Just want music to kick me and my guests right in the chest.
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post #21 of 31 Old 03-17-2017, 04:47 PM
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Just a simple suggestion. Unless your arcade games are magnetically shielded I would HIGHLY RECOMMEND not getting your new subwoofers within 3' of them. The UM 18's have a very strong magnetic field and the MDF isn't going to help shield the field from disrupting the screen on your arcade game or the electronics in your pinball machines.


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post #22 of 31 Old 03-17-2017, 06:52 PM - Thread Starter
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The ums are at least 6ft from the Buck Hunter. Don't plan on having them any closer. Thanks!
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post #23 of 31 Old 03-18-2017, 04:49 AM
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The ums are at least 6ft from the Buck Hunter. Don't plan on having them any closer. Thanks!


Btw. Great job on the enclosures. I bet the UM's are insane compared to your other subs.


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post #24 of 31 Old 03-20-2017, 04:05 AM
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Great job!
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post #25 of 31 Old 03-20-2017, 04:21 AM
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Just a simple suggestion. Unless your arcade games are magnetically shielded I would HIGHLY RECOMMEND not getting your new subwoofers within 3' of them. The UM 18's have a very strong magnetic field and the MDF isn't going to help shield the field from disrupting the screen on your arcade game or the electronics in your pinball machines.


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That means the subs need to be placed away from the TV?

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post #26 of 31 Old 03-20-2017, 04:23 AM
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Btw, to the OP, how many quarts or gallons of durtex did you use for your two subs? I have 4 being built and I need to know how much I'll need.

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post #27 of 31 Old 03-20-2017, 06:12 AM
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That means the subs need to be placed away from the TV?

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Only if you have an old school CRT type TV or pinball machine. The magnetic field can play havoc with them. LCD, LED, and Plasma type TV's will not be affected.


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post #28 of 31 Old 03-20-2017, 06:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Btw, to the OP, how many quarts or gallons of durtex did you use for your two subs? I have 4 being built and I need to know how much I'll need.

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I used one quart for the 2 boxes. Allowed me two good coats on both subs. If I did it again, I would have purchased a gallon just to make 110% sure.
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post #29 of 31 Old 03-29-2017, 11:42 PM
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Can these subs be built for downfiring? Just put the feet and posts in a different place?

I'm interested in DIY subs for my next upgrade but my cat might be a little too interested in the foam surrounds on the speakers.. I'm at 75%+ movie type material, but I want the most accurate bass available.

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post #30 of 31 Old 03-30-2017, 06:52 AM
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Can these subs be built for downfiring? Just put the feet and posts in a different place?

I'm interested in DIY subs for my next upgrade but my cat might be a little too interested in the foam surrounds on the speakers.. I'm at 75%+ movie type material, but I want the most accurate bass available.
You can make it downfiring as long as you give the driver about 4" of space to breath, and I'd suggest NOT using a plate amp on it as the ONLY place a plate amp can go (without modifying the bracing) would end up being the top of your box.

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