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post #61 of 150 Old 04-15-2017, 09:54 AM - Thread Starter
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These are looking amazing!


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post #62 of 150 Old 04-15-2017, 09:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Finished all the braces this morning, there will be a brace like this every 12 layers per enclosure, I may add some smaller braces between these once the enclosure is assembled but I'll decide that when I'm there.




Neat thing about doing everything template based like I have, all parts are identical, all 6 braces fit perfectly in any layer they're put in, nothing needs to be customized to fit.











All fabricated pieces so far

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post #63 of 150 Old 04-16-2017, 07:01 AM
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This is amazing, great job. I wish I had your skill, tool chest, and time.
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post #64 of 150 Old 04-16-2017, 08:46 PM - Thread Starter
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This is amazing, great job. I wish I had your skill, tool chest, and time.


Thanks for the words!
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post #65 of 150 Old 04-16-2017, 08:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Little update then not much for a week as I'll be on a business trip.

The top panel of the enclosure will have CLD to minimize any resonances from that panel, in order to do that I'll be bonding this 1/4" Baltic birch to a sheet of sorbothane, which will be sandwiched between the BB and the solid Mahogany top panel.

I cut the BB 1/4" smaller than the ID of the top layer which it will be sitting in, to do that I used the alum template and a templating jig on my router













And this is what I'll be doing for feet, solid CNC alum with 2" diameter sorbothane rubber feet, feet will be threaded to allow height adjustment or tilting, the aluminum will have a special anodizing process that looks sort of like polished steel.



Thanks!
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post #66 of 150 Old 04-16-2017, 11:21 PM
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Great project
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DIY , Ikea Style
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post #67 of 150 Old 04-17-2017, 05:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Great project


Thanks I appreciate it!

Javad
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post #68 of 150 Old 04-19-2017, 12:49 PM
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That looks like a ton of work!
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post #69 of 150 Old 04-23-2017, 09:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Well back at it!

Next step is to glue the braces into the sub-modules, they are a tight fit so just some well placed glue suffices









And the moment of truth...gluing the sub-modules together. I put together these 3/4" bar clamps to create the most clamping force.



All the sub-modules laid out and organized in order ready to glue





Glued, doweled and clamped



And out of the clamps







This was enclosure A, will do enclosure B tomorrow.

Thanks,
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post #70 of 150 Old 04-23-2017, 10:20 PM
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Looking good

DIY , Ikea Style
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post #71 of 150 Old 04-26-2017, 11:13 PM - Thread Starter
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This project has gone smoothly and I've gotten exactly the results I've been anticipating along the way, however in the glue up of cabinet A I feel the result wasn't perfect.

The issue is that I anticipated the sub-modules to be more flexible during clamping, and they are somewhat but not enough to get a perfectly flat interface. During the glue ups of the 6-layer sub-modules, inevitably some unevenness did occur. I tried to make up for this in brute force and there just wasn't enough of it. The result is I have 2 small gaps between two layers, I'm not thrilled with them however I found some Famowood that is the exact color of the Mahogany and it shouldn't be noticeable.

Regardless I didn't want to make this mistake on Cabinet B.

I devised a perfectly flat sanding platform using some cabinet grade Aruco plywood, to force the flatness in X and Y directions I screwed and glued 4" wide strips, and verified flatness with some large flat Tri-squares.

To the platform I attached adhesive backed 120 grit sandpaper







And then it was like an hour in the gym, definitely a good workout!





Really thrilled with how well this worked out, I was able to create perfectly flat interfaces between the sub-modules for what should be a gap free glue up, will glue up Cab B in the morning.

And I have a huge flat sanding platform I can use in the future whenever I need it.

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post #72 of 150 Old 04-27-2017, 02:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Cabinet B glued up this morning before work and man it's perfect, wish I had done this with Cabinet A!



This was almost a 1/16" gap before sanding

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post #73 of 150 Old 04-27-2017, 11:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Wow, threw some 80 grit in the Dewalt ROS and after an hour Cabinet B is smooth and starting to shape up! Really pleased with this result.





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post #74 of 150 Old 04-28-2017, 01:22 AM
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Such an awesome thread. Cheers to you. Excellent planning and execution.

I'd like to hear them when they're done. I get up there every once in a while.
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post #75 of 150 Old 04-28-2017, 02:58 AM
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Very cool build so far! Just wish I could identify the species besides the poplar.
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post #76 of 150 Old 04-29-2017, 08:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by PsychoM3 View Post
Very cool build so far! Just wish I could identify the species besides the poplar.


Thanks man! Mahogany
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post #77 of 150 Old 04-29-2017, 09:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Ok some high stakes work today, more and more "no turning back" steps to the build =)

Both cabinets sanded with 60 grit and smooth.

I decided to tackle the port openings before routering out the front baffle.

I realized recently that ther work I did to locate the port module put the port openings right inline with the alignment dowels, meaning dowels would be visible in the port opening. After mulling over some solutions, I decided to redo the port module components to locate the ports further outboard of the dowels. Was about an hour of work and I was back in business:





The port tubes will be separate and held in place with a threaded rod and some fasteners, that way swapping out port tube length is trivial.tue port module attaches to the enclosure with 4 screws.







With that work done, it's time to router the port openings, I made some small port tubes to press tightly into the module plate to act as a guide for the router bearing.



And wala. Things started out with a 1/2" hole to feed the router but through then slowly hogging out the hole.







Turned out very nice, I'll be finishing the port openings off with a 3/4" round over once I glue on the bottom plate.

Tomorrow I router the drivers in.

Thanks!
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post #78 of 150 Old 04-29-2017, 10:13 PM
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Thanks man! Mahogany
Sorry, I should have been more clear. I am sure you know that isn't "authentic" mahogany, the chances of HD selling Swietenia sp. are about a billion to one plus the price and end grain structure is wrong for Swietenia. Authentic mahogany is somewhat rare and the price has steadily increased since it was listed on CITES about 15 years ago. It is likely one of the woods sold in the trade as African mahogany and what you have looks mainly like Khaya invorensis but may have some other species like K. grandifoliola mixed in just really hard to tell from the pictures. Sorry, just my wood OCD coming out.
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post #79 of 150 Old 04-29-2017, 10:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by PsychoM3 View Post
Sorry, just my wood OCD coming out


Ahh..yea, I see what you're saying now, our local Home Depot's carry product from this company, its domestic grown hardwood, really nice wood with beautiful grains, quite happy with what they supply.

http://www.swanerhardwood.com/

Thanks,
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post #80 of 150 Old 04-30-2017, 01:14 AM
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Is this wood stable enough to serve as a speaker cab?

Normally wood wouldnt be, but maybe the way you did it it is?

I sure hope so, because they turn out really nice!

Sorry for the bad english...

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post #81 of 150 Old 04-30-2017, 02:56 AM
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Is this wood stable enough to serve as a speaker cab?

Normally wood wouldnt be, but maybe the way you did it it is?

I sure hope so, because they turn out really nice!

Sorry for the bad english...
Interesting question. First, the S4S (pre-milled) wood sold in our big box stores is normally kiln dried so it actually gains moisture in the store. The wood sold there is almost always plain sawn so it has a decent chance of warping in both the tangential and radial directions BUT if it doesn't "potato chip" in the store it tends to be fairly stable and I assume the OP let it acclimate to the rough RH of its final home. He is lucky (or made a considered choice) in that yellow poplar and the African "mahogany" species (which I believe this is) have fairly similar dimensional change coefficients so that is unlikely to be a huge factor. As long as the speakers live in an area with fairly small RH swings I think they will be fine as this type of construction has some of the characteristics of plywood. My main concern would be with tangential movement. That said only time will tell, I have had a couple of pieces of furniture split after as much as 15 years even when most reasonable precautions were taken regarding grain direction, construction, and acclimatizing the lumber before and after milling. Wood is fickle and far from homogeneous even when it appears so, that is why ply, OSB, MDF etc exist.
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post #82 of 150 Old 04-30-2017, 03:44 AM
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Originally Posted by PsychoM3 View Post
Interesting question. First, the S4S (pre-milled) wood sold in our big box stores is normally kiln dried so it actually gains moisture in the store. The wood sold there is almost always plain sawn so it has a decent chance of warping in both the tangential and radial directions BUT if it doesn't "potato chip" in the store it tends to be fairly stable and I assume the OP let it acclimate to the rough RH of its final home. He is lucky (or made a considered choice) in that yellow poplar and the African "mahogany" species (which I believe this is) have fairly similar dimensional change coefficients so that is unlikely to be a huge factor. As long as the speakers live in an area with fairly small RH swings I think they will be fine as this type of construction has some of the characteristics of plywood. My main concern would be with tangential movement. That said only time will tell, I have had a couple of pieces of furniture split after as much as 15 years even when most reasonable precautions were taken regarding grain direction, construction, and acclimatizing the lumber before and after milling. Wood is fickle and far from homogeneous even when it appears so, that is why ply, OSB, MDF etc exist.
This is what I was alluding to in post # 25, in not as many words. Wood moves with changes in moisture.

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post #83 of 150 Old 04-30-2017, 08:50 AM - Thread Starter
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I don't anticipate any problems based on the design, but certainly anything is possible.

I believe there are some "accepted knowledge" in any community that are often taken for granted and rarely tested, I think the "you can't use hardwood or solid wood to build enclosures" is one of them.

I have been building speakers and furniture from hardwood for decades, and I'm certainly not the first to do it.

Yes all wood was dry and very stable, and I have let it rest during the various stages of processing as well.

Should there ever be an issue rest assured I'll report it as part of the learning process.

Thanks!
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post #84 of 150 Old 04-30-2017, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by jshadzi View Post
I don't anticipate any problems based on the design, but certainly anything is possible.

I believe there are some "accepted knowledge" in any community that are often taken for granted and rarely tested, I think the "you can't use hardwood or solid wood to build enclosures" is one of them.

I have been building speakers and furniture from hardwood for decades, and I'm certainly not the first to do it.

Yes all wood was dry and very stable, and I have let it rest during the various stages of processing as well.

Should there ever be an issue rest assured I'll report it as part of the learning process.

Thanks!
Javad
Yup. That wood isn't going anywhere. Planks of wood are subject to this, such as cabinet door inset panels etc. This build has so much glue etc there's no way that it's going to be an issue imho.

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post #85 of 150 Old 04-30-2017, 09:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Big progress today, pumped!

Started with the discs that will tie the dowel spine to each brace layer, the top layer cap doesn't go all the way through as the horn is too deep to allow the spine to go all the way to the top, this will tie that in separately with a flat brace that will also support the horn.





I've been pretty anxious about the driver cutouts, it's amazing how much vacuuming in the shop you can do as you put off the inevitable! =)

I used tape to hold the template down, but the usual wood working/carpet tape was too thin and weak, last thing I could afford would be the template moving at all. I ended up using high strength 3M foam tape, which was very secure



I used the following router setup



I ended up cutting out the driver openings with a jigsaw, plunge routing through 1.25" of Mahogany just didn't work out, but the aluminum insert was a very accurate template to trace them cut from





















And where things left off, things will go relatively quick from here, I should have drivers mounted and playing by the end of the week so I can start doing measurements.



Thanks!
Javad
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post #86 of 150 Old 04-30-2017, 10:09 PM
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Looks great! Man I wish I could hear them when you're done.
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post #87 of 150 Old 05-01-2017, 01:04 AM
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Hi Javad

The 3M tape work's a treat idea . Did the same with my build .

Looking great
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post #88 of 150 Old 05-01-2017, 07:44 PM
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These look amazing. Thank you for sharing. This has been so cool to watch. Do you plan to stain them?


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post #89 of 150 Old 05-02-2017, 07:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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These look amazing. Thank you for sharing. This has been so cool to watch. Do you plan to stain them?


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Thanks so glad you're enjoying it! The wood is really nice so I think at most I'll be doing Danish oil and then a nice glossy thick coat of clear.

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post #90 of 150 Old 05-02-2017, 07:08 AM - Thread Starter
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The top part of the enclosure needs a panel brace as the dowel spine cannot run through the compression driver. This panel ties together the sides and top of the enclosure, as well as to the dowel spine.

Started out with some measurements



Roughed out



And finished







The top of the brace glues directly to the top and the CLD treatment will go around and clear the brace.

I made the opening to accommodate a CD with up to a 6" diameter magnet should I ever want to try a different unit.

I will also integrate a sorbothane base for the CD to rest on once installed.

I also finished the port module, this assembly is screwed into the enclosure and fully disassemblable from inside the enclosure for easy port tuning changes.





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