Originally Posted by johnplayerson
I kind of got that impression from you...... For you money is not so much part of the object, as it is for me.
I like to do my best to have long lasting gear that can take punishment. If you could easily replace your units,
so much for the backing off.............. as you would just buy new ones. I hate having to replace stuff or worry about backing off on subs. With the home theatre geared subs, bottoming out seems to be a common thing due to the gearing towards a narrower field of Bass in the lower regions.
Another member switched to Alpine SWR 15s and said he liked them better and they never bottomed out. Despite he did not understand the difference between comb filtering, and intermodulation distortion, He was happier with the Alpines. I remember LTD02 was on that thread also. He was using peavy cs 4080hz amps bridged to each pair , for 4 total subs, Said he didnt want to use all of them and would sell. They were 15s of the same brand bass the hz is worried about losing.
32's 24's, 21's and subwoofers like the RF-19, XXX-18 and LMS-18 make woofers like the Dayton 8's to 15's look silly (all types).
I treat the UM-15's in my mains like "beefy woofers" rather than "subwoofers". They aren't in the same class. The UM-18 is much closer, that is one exception.
I like my subs being flat to 3-5hz, and so for me... the most important aspect of a subwoofer is xmech and displacement.
For this reason I'd never use anything less than those types of drivers (at least below 50hz that is.)
For frequencies above 50hz only ~96-101db/w/m drivers should be used. It just makes sense to.
Below ~50hz it is ALL about xmax and xmech, and the diameter of the cone. (The box/motor and amp help too, but that is secondary IMO.)
When cranking, I'd rather listen to 100% THD and a weak motor design than clacking.
This craphammer-24 has lots of displacement, xmech and power handling for cheap, which is exactly
what I wanted.
I will measure it, but I really don't care
what it measures like, to be honest...
It seems to have shockingly low distortion free-air, which is a plus.
While it might not be an optimal motor I think it will do "fine" for how I'm using them; more-than fine by the looks of its free-air performance.
If/when I want to hear some "musicality" I will just listen to my HD800 headphones, or my system at a much lower SPL with the craphammers disabled (if they get in the way...)
Owning the LMS-18's are kind of like owning the last Unicorn Lambo on the planet; they are great, but you can't drive them over speed bumps at Walmart like you can a 20 year old beater truck.
I need a mule that can break its back and die on the way up to the peak of Mt Louderest with the afterburners permanently-on