Stereo Integrity HT-18 v2 18" available again May-23-2017 - Page 3 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #61 of 153 Old 05-06-2017, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by diy speaker guy View Post

Not sure what this comment is actually saying though - I'm the only one that talks about lossy inductance as far as I'm aware so this appears to be addressing me. If my data or comments on lossy inductance have offended you please PM me as I'd like to clear that up.


It was just a joke. Seems to happen in SI threads. Your data is great, keep it up
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post #62 of 153 Old 05-06-2017, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by diy speaker guy View Post
I wasn't really aware of the D4 drama until after it was over but IIRC the drama was based on the D4 t/s never being published. Even recently when people were requesting the D4 t/s in the open forum here, long after having being discontinued, SI refused to publish the t/s on the forum, although he said he would provide them by email. This is just odd and a good cause for drama. The fact that the t/s were different for the D2 and D4 wasn't the source of the drama, the lack of published specs for one of them was the problem.



What's to debate? Normalized inductance is low so lossy inductance effects will be moderate. This driver should fare pretty well as far as lossy inductance goes, as it's predecessor did.

Not sure what this comment is actually saying though - I'm the only one that talks about lossy inductance as far as I'm aware so this appears to be addressing me. If my data or comments on lossy inductance have offended you please PM me as I'd like to clear that up.
Omfg. Dude...

It's not all about you. Don't need to rehash this yet again.

#SItriggered #InductanceMatters
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post #63 of 153 Old 05-06-2017, 01:32 PM
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#InductanceMatters
I'm usually up for a hump, even an inductance hump BUT nothing worse than losing heat from your inductor. The good thing is really ugly drivers turn my inductor into a "resist-her" and thus helps me avoid getting tricked into a bad hump.
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post #64 of 153 Old 05-06-2017, 02:19 PM
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post #65 of 153 Old 05-06-2017, 02:50 PM
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I wish DSP Worked for ALL bad humps...sigh....
But...But ..I have DSP?!!!!! HAHA

Why waste $ on more cheap stuff, it's like challenging a dragon with a pocket knife.

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post #66 of 153 Old 05-06-2017, 03:18 PM
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I wish DSP Worked for ALL bad humps...sigh....
The problem there is it becomes a bit like Schrodinger's pussy. In order to use DSP to improve the hump you first must experience and measure the hump (as we all know modeling a hump is notoriously difficult) so you risk the possibility of getting a dead pussy when what you are hoping for is a live wild one. However, one can hope that a fellow AVSer will take one for the team by experiencing and measuring the hump so you can DSP your way to an optimum hump on the first try.

One could also use two humps at the same time to help balance out the lack of skills in each humper. One could use the upper end skills of a pro humper to balance the reduced sensitivity on the top end seen in a heavier humper. Sometimes it just takes two drivers to level out the hump.
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post #67 of 153 Old 05-06-2017, 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by PsychoM3 View Post
The V2 is actually closer to ideal in a 4cuft box than a UM18. Qtc for a UM18 in 4cuft is about .890 (it "prefers" about 10cuft) where Qtc for a V2 is .798. In your scenario, a UM18 with a 6000 will have about a 4dB advantage below 50hz. One should note the 3000 won't fully power the two V2 where the 6000 will fully power 2 UM18s. Using a 6000 with the V2 (but not going over the 600w PE) tightens it up but the UM18 still have roughly a 2.5dB advantage.

So with the V2 you have $300 for drivers, $230 for the amp (assuming the non-DSP version) and ~$300 for the boxes (shipped) so ~900 built, the UM/6000 setup will be ~1300 built. So about $400 for ~4dB. If you use the 6000 with the V2 drivers it drops to about $300 difference for a 2.5dB advantage.
Amazing info, thank you! Is there a graph somewhere that would represent both setups? A shame the HT18v2 wasn't dual 4ohm as that would work perfectly for two of them on an iN3k setup but we can't always have it all!
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post #68 of 153 Old 05-06-2017, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by LondonBenji View Post
Amazing info, thank you! Is there a graph somewhere that would represent both setups? A shame the HT18v2 wasn't dual 4ohm as that would work perfectly for two of them on an iN3k setup but we can't always have it all!
I am sitting in an airport waiting for my flight and only have my work computer with me now so I don't have WinISD available to me. While someone else might do the work I suggest downloading WinISD and learning to run it, it is really quite simple and you will learn a ton just by being able to quickly visualize the impact changing all the different variables have on each other.
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post #69 of 153 Old 05-07-2017, 02:50 PM
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I think I am in.........100 bucks cheaper than the um-18 and if 2 will not cut it, just get that third one !


I am a believer in more is better anyway.


I am thinking nearfield.......and low, how low can you go with these ?

I can about do any size cabinet and due to many other subs in the room.......if this build was all done by 80hz I am good to go still.

This is 99% HT........

Link to budget Home Theater build

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-ded...i-version.html
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post #70 of 153 Old 05-07-2017, 07:50 PM
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Yes sir. This new version is sustainable long-term.
Do these have the same cutout and outer flange dimensions as the previous model?
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post #71 of 153 Old 05-07-2017, 08:05 PM
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Do these have the same cutout and outer flange dimensions as the previous model?
Yes they do.
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post #72 of 153 Old 05-08-2017, 08:48 AM
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Yes! Perfect timing for Johhny Sub #2.
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post #73 of 153 Old 05-08-2017, 09:42 AM
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Nice to see these make a comeback. At this price, it's hard to find a reason not to get these.
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post #74 of 153 Old 05-08-2017, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by PsychoM3 View Post
The V2 is actually closer to ideal in a 4cuft box than a UM18. Qtc for a UM18 in 4cuft is about .890 (it "prefers" about 10cuft) where Qtc for a V2 is .798. In your scenario, a UM18 with a 6000 will have about a 4dB advantage below 50hz. One should note the 3000 won't fully power the two V2 where the 6000 will fully power 2 UM18s. Using a 6000 with the V2 (but not going over the 600w PE) tightens it up but the UM18 still have roughly a 2.5dB advantage.

So with the V2 you have $300 for drivers, $230 for the amp (assuming the non-DSP version) and ~$300 for the boxes (shipped) so ~900 built, the UM/6000 setup will be ~1300 built. So about $400 for ~4dB. If you use the 6000 with the V2 drivers it drops to about $300 difference for a 2.5dB advantage.
Just bought two of these. If they are rated at 600 RMS couldnt I wire then in series to each channel would I get 680 RMS to them at 4 ohms? Thank you.
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post #75 of 153 Old 05-08-2017, 12:28 PM
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Electrodynamic, I just bought two of these but didn't see a ship date on my order. Do you know when these might ship out? Thanks!
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post #76 of 153 Old 05-08-2017, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Ryan White View Post
Just bought two of these. If they are rated at 600 RMS couldnt I wire then in series to each channel would I get 680 RMS to them at 4 ohms? Thank you.
Which amp are you referring to?
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post #77 of 153 Old 05-08-2017, 12:34 PM
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Which amp are you referring to?
Im Sorry, The iNUKE 3000
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post #78 of 153 Old 05-08-2017, 01:06 PM
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Im Sorry, The iNUKE 3000
I am no sure where you go 680w you may have miswritten the Behringer spec of 880wpc @ 4ohms for the 3000. The 3000 with both channels driven will give you about 450wpc RMS so you are giving up a little, the 6000 will give about 1400 wpc @ 4ohms. The reason people were wishing for a 4 ohm version of the driver is wiring them for a 2 ohm load gets about 750 wpc RMS from a 3000 so you can fully drive 2 on a 3000 and 4 on a 6000, as it is you have to decide to give them less than full power with an iNuke 3000 or have power to spare with the 6000 and spend $120 more. In reality you are probably only giving up about 2-3dB with the 3000 and 2 v2 vs a 6000 and 2 v2.
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post #79 of 153 Old 05-08-2017, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by PsychoM3 View Post
I am no sure where you go 680w you may have miswritten the Behringer spec of 880wpc @ 4ohms for the 3000. The 3000 with both channels driven will give you about 450wpc RMS so you are giving up a little, the 6000 will give about 1400 wpc @ 4ohms. The reason people were wishing for a 4 ohm version of the driver is wiring them for a 2 ohm load gets about 750 wpc RMS from a 3000 so you can fully drive 2 on a 3000 and 4 on a 6000, as it is you have to decide to give them less than full power with an iNuke 3000 or have power to spare with the 6000 and spend $120 more. In reality you are probably only giving up about 2-3dB with the 3000 and 2 v2 vs a 6000 and 2 v2.
Per the parts express description....Specifications: • Output power (per channel, stereo): 315 watts RMS, 440 watts peak (8 ohms), 680 watts RMS, 880 watts peak (4 ohms), 1040 watts RMS, 1520 watts peak (2 ohms) • Output power (bridged mono): 1250 watts RMS, 1520 watts peak (8 ohms), 2050 watts RMS, 3000 watts peak (4 ohms)

680 watts per channel rms @4ohm s
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post #80 of 153 Old 05-08-2017, 04:41 PM
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Do these have the same cutout and outer flange dimensions as the previous model?


Bring back the sealed cab for SI!


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post #81 of 153 Old 05-08-2017, 05:33 PM
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Bring back the sealed cab for SI!
I've got a new 4cuft sealed flat pack design that uses Baltic birch plywood. Hopefully they'll get cut in a week or two.

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post #82 of 153 Old 05-08-2017, 05:34 PM
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I've got a new 4cuft sealed flat pack design that uses Baltic birch plywood. Hopefully they'll get cut in a week or two.


Awesome


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post #83 of 153 Old 05-08-2017, 06:36 PM
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FWIW,

I've had 4 of the original SI HT18's in 2 dual opposed cabs for a few years now. I originally had each cabinet (pair) being fed from an Inuke 3000 DSP each. I never needed that much power to get louder than I needed. When I moved, about 2 years ago, I hooked each up to a single channel of one Inuke3000, so each channel was driving 2 of the original dual 4 ohm voice coil subs, and it was still capable of getting louder than I needed. Granted, it's in a very small room.... so I realize they could take more power, but it just wasn't needed.

Probably not even a relevant argument, because I've since replaced them with 2 Gjallerhorns... but still only using one of the Inuke 3K's ... because I can. And it's still capable of louder than I need.

Again, IMO, chasing after the last few db of what a sub is capable of, is kinda silly if you're never going to need it. Why spend the extra $$ if you don't have to? and yes I do realize how my own actions have contradicted the exact advice I just gave.... that's how I know. at least I'm not bothered by the "what-ifs"

Joseph
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post #84 of 153 Old 05-08-2017, 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Ryan White View Post
Per the parts express description....Specifications: • Output power (per channel, stereo): 315 watts RMS, 440 watts peak (8 ohms), 680 watts RMS, 880 watts peak (4 ohms), 1040 watts RMS, 1520 watts peak (2 ohms) • Output power (bridged mono): 1250 watts RMS, 1520 watts peak (8 ohms), 2050 watts RMS, 3000 watts peak (4 ohms)

680 watts per channel rms @4ohm s
I got you. That is just the quoted specs, tests show what they can actually do, my numbers are based on actual tests of the amps.
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post #85 of 153 Old 05-08-2017, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by wlhungdude View Post
FWIW,

I've had 4 of the original SI HT18's in 2 dual opposed cabs for a few years now. I originally had each cabinet (pair) being fed from an Inuke 3000 DSP each. I never needed that much power to get louder than I needed. When I moved, about 2 years ago, I hooked each up to a single channel of one Inuke3000, so each channel was driving 2 of the original dual 4 ohm voice coil subs, and it was still capable of getting louder than I needed. Granted, it's in a very small room.... so I realize they could take more power, but it just wasn't needed.

Probably not even a relevant argument, because I've since replaced them with 2 Gjallerhorns... but still only using one of the Inuke 3K's ... because I can. And it's still capable of louder than I need.

Again, IMO, chasing after the last few db of what a sub is capable of, is kinda silly if you're never going to need it. Why spend the extra $$ if you don't have to? and yes I do realize how my own actions have contradicted the exact advice I just gave.... that's how I know. at least I'm not bothered by the "what-ifs"

Joseph
Joseph,

Can you provide details on your dual opposed design?

PM is good as well.

Regards,

Beau
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post #86 of 153 Old 05-08-2017, 10:47 PM
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I got you. That is just the quoted specs, tests show what they can actually do, my numbers are based on actual tests of the amps.

What tests? I've seen all kinds of numbers tossed about, but no actual tests. I've been looking for them, just haven't found them.

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post #87 of 153 Old 05-08-2017, 11:29 PM
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What tests? I've seen all kinds of numbers tossed about, but no actual tests. I've been looking for them, just haven't found them.
Lukeamdman tests on data-bass and teslaman test on speakerplans.com. There are also some on DIYaudio, also in notynt's measurement thread etc etc

Not being a jackhole but how hard did you look? A google search of "inuke test" comes up with tons of links.
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post #88 of 153 Old 05-08-2017, 11:53 PM
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I was going to build 2 vbss but now I'm thinking of making 2 mini Marty's with these instead since I mostly do movies.


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post #89 of 153 Old 05-09-2017, 12:16 AM
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Originally Posted by PsychoM3 View Post
Lukeamdman tests on data-bass and teslaman test on speakerplans.com. There are also some on DIYaudio, also in notynt's measurement thread etc etc

Not being a jackhole but how hard did you look? A google search of "inuke test" comes up with tons of links.



I'm pretty sure Lukeamdman and notynt never tested the 3000. All I can find on teslaman is his classified ad. [EDIT: I found where teslaman tested the 6000, not the 3000] DIY audio lists some numbers ("power output was pretty darn close to..."), but no test results. Lots of info on the 6000, but not the 3000. Maybe you could help me out with some links? Thanks.

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post #90 of 153 Old 05-09-2017, 01:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post
I'm pretty sure Lukeamdman and notynt never tested the 3000. All I can find on teslaman is his classified ad. [EDIT: I found where teslaman tested the 6000, not the 3000] DIY audio lists some numbers ("power output was pretty darn close to..."), but no test results. Lots of info on the 6000, but not the 3000. Maybe you could help me out with some links? Thanks.
6000 is literally two bridged 3000s. Extrapolate from there

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