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post #1 of 23 Old 08-07-2017, 06:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Upgrading DIY sub

Funds are currently the limiting factor. I have a 10" ported DIY sub with a BASH300.

Does it make any sense to upgrade to an 18" sealed design with the BASH, or is that severely underpowered.

I've seen a similar design and the fella he greatly enjoyed it.

Wondering what kind of performance upgrade this would provide.
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post #2 of 23 Old 08-07-2017, 06:54 PM
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You would still get more output with the 18". It would be equivalent to adding 3-4+ more 10" IF you feed them the same TOTAL power as in 300wats to the 4 10" subs compared to 300watts to the single 18". I don't have a 10" sub in WINISD but just comparing a UM18 to the UM12 it would take 3 12" to equal 1 18" so figure 4-5 10" to equal 1 18". Keep everything else equal is a rough estimate.

Which 10" sub do you have now and what is the enclosure size and tune?

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post #3 of 23 Old 08-07-2017, 06:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spectre55 View Post
Funds are currently the limiting factor. I have a 10" ported DIY sub with a BASH300.

Does it make any sense to upgrade to an 18" sealed design with the BASH, or is that severely underpowered.

I've seen a similar design and the fella he greatly enjoyed it.

Wondering what kind of performance upgrade this would provide.
Depends on the bandwidth you want, and the physical size constraints. Are you going to build a new cabinet as well, or cobble another baffle on it to mount the 18?

Not sure if there is a high pass filter in the Bash 300, never used a plate amp.

WinISD might be helpful in comparing systems with the same power.

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post #4 of 23 Old 08-07-2017, 08:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bscool View Post
You would still get more output with the 18". It would be equivalent to adding 3-4+ more 10" IF you feed them the same TOTAL power as in 300wats to the 4 10" subs compared to 300watts to the single 18". I don't have a 10" sub in WINISD but just comparing a UM18 to the UM12 it would take 3 12" to equal 1 18" so figure 4-5 10" to equal 1 18". Keep everything else equal is a rough estimate.

Which 10" sub do you have now and what is the enclosure size and tune?
Thanks for the info. Right now it's a SDX10 sub in a 70L ported box tuned to 25 Hz. I am mostly wondering if an 18" sealed will play cleaner and deeper. Sometimes my sub clips hard when it's pushed.



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Originally Posted by michael hurd View Post
Depends on the bandwidth you want, and the physical size constraints. Are you going to build a new cabinet as well, or cobble another baffle on it to mount the 18?

Not sure if there is a high pass filter in the Bash 300, never used a plate amp.

WinISD might be helpful in comparing systems with the same power.

I will be building a new box for the 18" if I get it. Either that or a 15", and probably will be sealed. It's simpler and the room is small (15x13x8) so can probably pick up some cabin gain.

I think the factory HPF setting is 17.5 Hz on that amp.

If I can actually sell this sub I may go with a different amp, maybe a Dayton. They seem more solid and reliable, from what I've read online.
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post #5 of 23 Old 08-07-2017, 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Spectre55 View Post
Thanks for the info. Right now it's a SDX10 sub in a 70L ported box tuned to 25 Hz. I am mostly wondering if an 18" sealed will play cleaner and deeper. Sometimes my sub clips hard when it's pushed.






I will be building a new box for the 18" if I get it. Either that or a 15", and probably will be sealed. It's simpler and the room is small (15x13x8) so can probably pick up some cabin gain.

I think the factory HPF setting is 17.5 Hz on that amp.

If I can actually sell this sub I may go with a different amp, maybe a Dayton. They seem more solid and reliable, from what I've read online.
Cleaner and deeper, both absolutely possible with an 18" subwoofer with sufficient clean excursion in an optimum box. If you can break away from using a plate amplifier, your options open up immensely, especially one with a user-friendly DSP interface like the Behringer iNuke DSP amps.

If budget is tight, consider selling your current amplifier and driver to someone else, or the entire cabinet ( if it meets their needs / aesthetics ) to fund another build.

Skip the 15" idea and go straight to the 18", unless you like spending money 2 and 3 times over.

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post #6 of 23 Old 08-07-2017, 09:20 PM
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That a beast little 10" you have there. You should be able to sell that easily if you wanted. They are really nice drivers from all I have heard about them. Here is a WINISD using the UM18 and SI18 not sure what other drivers you have considered. The Si is good and would be better for the 300watts if you planned on staying with that amp.

I just used 4cf sealed for each 18" you could pick up couple dB down low if you went up to 6cf if output down low is your priority.

Edit: I wanted to say remember in a room you will get some good increase down low being you are in a small room. I modeled it with the high pass at 18hz and you really wouldn't gain anything so sell that amp if you plan on going with a sealed 18" in order to gain anything down low. Ill include a WINISD of that also.
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post #7 of 23 Old 08-08-2017, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Spectre55 View Post
Thanks for the info. Right now it's a SDX10 sub in a 70L ported box tuned to 25 Hz. I am mostly wondering if an 18" sealed will play cleaner and deeper. Sometimes my sub clips hard when it's pushed.

I will be building a new box for the 18" if I get it. Either that or a 15", and probably will be sealed. It's simpler and the room is small (15x13x8) so can probably pick up some cabin gain.
I have a ported SDX-10 with the BASH300, and it really is a great sub for its size. I recently built a pair of sealed UXL-18s, powered by an iNuke 6000, and I can tell you they are capable of a lot more output. I haven't tweaked them at all yet, but there's just so much more displacement, especially with the proper amp.

I'd build the new sub, use the BASH for now if you need to, and then pick up a dedicated amp (an iNuke 3000 or something) down the road. Then you can either use the SDX still in another location, or possibly sell it to offset the cost. But don't build the new sub with a hole for a plate amp, because it will limit you unless you can spring for one of the expensive high power ones.
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post #8 of 23 Old 08-08-2017, 04:57 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by michael hurd View Post
Cleaner and deeper, both absolutely possible with an 18" subwoofer with sufficient clean excursion in an optimum box. If you can break away from using a plate amplifier, your options open up immensely, especially one with a user-friendly DSP interface like the Behringer iNuke DSP amps.

If budget is tight, consider selling your current amplifier and driver to someone else, or the entire cabinet ( if it meets their needs / aesthetics ) to fund another build.

Skip the 15" idea and go straight to the 18", unless you like spending money 2 and 3 times over.
I hear ya on skipping the 15". The 18" is about $120 more expensive, but I think I need to realize I will be buying one eventually.


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Originally Posted by bscool View Post
That a beast little 10" you have there. You should be able to sell that easily if you wanted. They are really nice drivers from all I have heard about them. Here is a WINISD using the UM18 and SI18 not sure what other drivers you have considered. The Si is good and would be better for the 300watts if you planned on staying with that amp.

I just used 4cf sealed for each 18" you could pick up couple dB down low if you went up to 6cf if output down low is your priority.

Edit: I wanted to say remember in a room you will get some good increase down low being you are in a small room. I modeled it with the high pass at 18hz and you really wouldn't gain anything so sell that amp if you plan on going with a sealed 18" in order to gain anything down low. Ill include a WINISD of that also.
Thanks, I think the sub is pretty great for it's size. I guess my biggest issue with it is it reaches it's max and "clacks" really loud sometimes. Is there anything I can do to stop that other than turning the gain down?

Thanks for modeling those for me. I was looking at the UM18 and Dayton HO reference or HF reference, not sure what the difference is. But it's interesting that I won't really gain much by going to an 18" sealed if I'm using the same amp.

My biggest issue with the rack amps is that I've heard they're very loud (fans) and the lights can be distracting. Is this something that isn't really a concern?



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Originally Posted by OJ Bartley View Post
I have a ported SDX-10 with the BASH300, and it really is a great sub for its size. I recently built a pair of sealed UXL-18s, powered by an iNuke 6000, and I can tell you they are capable of a lot more output. I haven't tweaked them at all yet, but there's just so much more displacement, especially with the proper amp.

I'd build the new sub, use the BASH for now if you need to, and then pick up a dedicated amp (an iNuke 3000 or something) down the road. Then you can either use the SDX still in another location, or possibly sell it to offset the cost. But don't build the new sub with a hole for a plate amp, because it will limit you unless you can spring for one of the expensive high power ones.
What design/dimensions is your build? Mine is about 15"x20"x20" roughly.
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post #9 of 23 Old 08-08-2017, 07:27 PM
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My biggest issue with the rack amps is that I've heard they're very loud (fans) and the lights can be distracting. Is this something that isn't really a concern?
Hard to say what the 'clack' is, it could be your amp clipping behavior, or it could be the driver reaching it's limits.

Rack amps can be placed away from the box, you can run many feet of speaker wire, as long as it is of an adequate gauge size, so you could place it in a closet or another room if needed.

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post #10 of 23 Old 08-09-2017, 04:34 AM
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I hear ya on skipping the 15". The 18" is about $120 more expensive, but I think I need to realize I will be buying one eventually.

Thanks, I think the sub is pretty great for it's size. I guess my biggest issue with it is it reaches it's max and "clacks" really loud sometimes. Is there anything I can do to stop that other than turning the gain down?

Thanks for modeling those for me. I was looking at the UM18 and Dayton HO reference or HF reference, not sure what the difference is. But it's interesting that I won't really gain much by going to an 18" sealed if I'm using the same amp.

My biggest issue with the rack amps is that I've heard they're very loud (fans) and the lights can be distracting. Is this something that isn't really a concern?

What design/dimensions is your build? Mine is about 15"x20"x20" roughly.
The amps can have the fans changed and the lights can be covered with window type tint and other methods or going with something quite out of the box but then those lack EQ/DSP that I like in the Inuke.

Also the other night I forgot to put the same 18hz high pass on the 10" so you actually would get more output down low from the 18" than that graph showed but the HP still neuters them.

As for the Rss460 vs the UM. They are very close in output overall. The UM18 just gives a little more output down low. Even comparing them on Databass they are very close with the UM having a little more output overall. But in the real world with the amps, we use I think the RSS would have more output up top. Since most won't be using an amp like Ricci uses that is 8,000watts or whatever it is.

I included a WINISD comparing the RSS vs UM along with your 10" the 18" are in 4cf sealed and each receiving max PE 1000w for UM and 900w for RSS.

I would imagine the 10" is making noise because it is reaching its limits, that is asking for a lot to have high output in the 20hz range from a single 10". It is asking a lot even for a couple of 18" if you really want high output that you can hear and feel, they will be working!
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post #11 of 23 Old 08-09-2017, 06:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spectre55 View Post
What design/dimensions is your build? Mine is about 15"x20"x20" roughly.
Spectre, I have a build thread up at HTS, not sure if the link will work, but you can google CSS SDX10 Ported Build Thread and it should be right there. The images were all lost to Photobucket or Imageshack, but I have this comparison from my new build.





Now, my 18's are on the small side at about 3.5 cubes, but the SDX is 1.56 cubic ft., tuned to 24.5 Hz. I don't remember the external dimensions, but the UXL-18 enclosures are about 20 x 20 x 22 high, so I'm guessing the SDX is around 14 x 17 x 24 deep.

It really was (is) a great performer for a 10" sub. I might have had a little bit of clacking once or twice when running it hot, but I mostly treated it gently, and used it to help fill the room with my ported Tempest doing most of the heavy lifting.
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post #12 of 23 Old 08-09-2017, 08:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by michael hurd View Post
Hard to say what the 'clack' is, it could be your amp clipping behavior, or it could be the driver reaching it's limits.

Rack amps can be placed away from the box, you can run many feet of speaker wire, as long as it is of an adequate gauge size, so you could place it in a closet or another room if needed.
I think it's from the driver reaching it's limit, i.e. me running the sub too hot. I guess I don't have any sort of limiter that is usually put into a well made sub.

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The amps can have the fans changed and the lights can be covered with window type tint and other methods or going with something quite out of the box but then those lack EQ/DSP that I like in the Inuke.

Also the other night I forgot to put the same 18hz high pass on the 10" so you actually would get more output down low from the 18" than that graph showed but the HP still neuters them.

As for the Rss460 vs the UM. They are very close in output overall. The UM18 just gives a little more output down low. Even comparing them on Databass they are very close with the UM having a little more output overall. But in the real world with the amps, we use I think the RSS would have more output up top. Since most won't be using an amp like Ricci uses that is 8,000watts or whatever it is.

I included a WINISD comparing the RSS vs UM along with your 10" the 18" are in 4cf sealed and each receiving max PE 1000w for UM and 900w for RSS.

I would imagine the 10" is making noise because it is reaching its limits, that is asking for a lot to have high output in the 20hz range from a single 10". It is asking a lot even for a couple of 18" if you really want high output that you can hear and feel, they will be working!
Thanks again for modeling it. Like I said above, I think you're right, it's from pushing the sub too hard. But I do agree with everyone that it definitely is a little beast for a 10" sub, performs better than anything I could ever get from a big box store like best buy. Which is really all that is available to me in Canada.


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Originally Posted by OJ Bartley View Post
Spectre, I have a build thread up at HTS, not sure if the link will work, but you can google CSS SDX10 Ported Build Thread and it should be right there. The images were all lost to Photobucket or Imageshack, but I have this comparison from my new build.





Now, my 18's are on the small side at about 3.5 cubes, but the SDX is 1.56 cubic ft., tuned to 24.5 Hz. I don't remember the external dimensions, but the UXL-18 enclosures are about 20 x 20 x 22 high, so I'm guessing the SDX is around 14 x 17 x 24 deep.

It really was (is) a great performer for a 10" sub. I might have had a little bit of clacking once or twice when running it hot, but I mostly treated it gently, and used it to help fill the room with my ported Tempest doing most of the heavy lifting.
Haha, man, it looks like we made the exact same build with our SDX10/BASH300s. Check out pics of my sub below (and a pic of my room for reference)


So I think my conclusion from all of the fantastic information and opinions provided by everyone is that I would get a bit more output and maybe cleaner bass down low from a single 18" in a sealed cube, but the HPF and lack of DSP in the BASH amp is really limiting the potential of the driver.

I guess my options are to get an 18" and use it with my plate amp for now, or save up/sell the current sub to get a better amp and the 18" at the same time. I think I am going to go with the latter option. Seems like a better choice to me!

In the meantime, I was playing around with placement of my sub today, and I tried it a few inches behind my seat. Never tried nearfield before, only moved it around in different locations at the front of the room. All I can say is WOW! What a difference that makes! I had to turn the sucker down. My seat was rumbling. I love it. I feel like everyone needs their sub/at least one sub nearfield in their setups!
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post #13 of 23 Old 08-10-2017, 10:58 AM
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In the meantime, I was playing around with placement of my sub today, and I tried it a few inches behind my seat. Never tried nearfield before, only moved it around in different locations at the front of the room. All I can say is WOW! What a difference that makes! I had to turn the sucker down. My seat was rumbling. I love it. I feel like everyone needs their sub/at least one sub nearfield in their setups!
I agree I think everyone that wants more bass should try a nearfield. Even a single sealed UM18 or SI 18" behind your MLP will give you intense bass that you would have to have a room full of 18" sub to get a similar feeling when having them placed far field. For bass heads out there it is the cheapest answer and also helps with not having to have the volume so high that neighbors complain. That is why I finally tried near-field is my neighbors complained about the bass shaking things in their house and hearing it.

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Haha, man, it looks like we made the exact same build with our SDX10/BASH300s. Check out pics of my sub below (and a pic of my room for reference)

I guess my options are to get an 18" and use it with my plate amp for now, or save up/sell the current sub to get a better amp and the 18" at the same time. I think I am going to go with the latter option. Seems like a better choice to me!

In the meantime, I was playing around with placement of my sub today, and I tried it a few inches behind my seat. Never tried nearfield before, only moved it around in different locations at the front of the room. All I can say is WOW! What a difference that makes! I had to turn the sucker down. My seat was rumbling. I love it. I feel like everyone needs their sub/at least one sub nearfield in their setups!
Yeah, that looks like it's almost the same size as mine. I like the wood finish, I would actually like to do more staining in the future.

I think you're right to wait and do sub and amp all at once, and do it right the first time. You can still use the 10 until you upgrade (or if you can sell it) and it sounds like the nearfield location might be an improvement that will hold you over a bit? Definitely go for an amp with DSP or use a MiniDSP or something if you go with a sealed sub, because you can gain a lot from it. I'm about to start tweaking with REW and a MiniDSP, and hope to really tighten up the sound of my new 18s. The best thing is you can, within reason, tailor the sound to a response you prefer, whether that's big output down low or more into the midbass region. I need to experiment with both. Do you have room to use the 18 nearfield?
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post #15 of 23 Old 08-11-2017, 01:00 AM
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I just did a sealed SI HT 18 build...for the driver and the box it was 200 bucks.... 20x20x37.5 box size for right under 7 cubic foot interior space.



The driver is rated at 600 watts RMS, I ran it off of 120 watts for a week or so and had lots of deep base.


Dsp makes a huge difference, a cheap Inuke 1000DSP used will do the trick.........that's the cheapest bang per buck good performing combo.....you can use your amp for now and save for a DSP model Inuke.


Takes music and movies to a whole new level.


I went from 4, ported 12`s to the single sealed 18 and it blows them away.
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post #16 of 23 Old 08-11-2017, 06:48 AM - Thread Starter
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I agree I think everyone that wants more bass should try a nearfield. Even a single sealed UM18 or SI 18" behind your MLP will give you intense bass that you would have to have a room full of 18" sub to get a similar feeling when having them placed far field. For bass heads out there it is the cheapest answer and also helps with not having to have the volume so high that neighbors complain. That is why I finally tried near-field is my neighbors complained about the bass shaking things in their house and hearing it.
See...those are exactly my thoughts. I had a little revelation when I placed my sub behind my seat a few days ago. I got a 200% increase in tactile feeling, didn't have to have the sub turned up too high that it was struggling, and some really deep, intense bass. I thought...the whole reason I have a sub is for these things...if I can get this from having it nearfield, then I am getting what I wanted!

Right now the small room in my basement where this is setup (actually smaller than I thought...it's 12'x8'x7.5' plus the little alcove thing at the back) is the only finished portion of the basement. Eventually when I finish the whole basement, I may not have the option of having a sub nearfield, but I am going to do my best to design it so that it's possible. If the subs behind the couch, it's completely hidden, which will make my wife happy as well. win win right?



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Originally Posted by OJ Bartley View Post
Yeah, that looks like it's almost the same size as mine. I like the wood finish, I would actually like to do more staining in the future.

I think you're right to wait and do sub and amp all at once, and do it right the first time. You can still use the 10 until you upgrade (or if you can sell it) and it sounds like the nearfield location might be an improvement that will hold you over a bit? Definitely go for an amp with DSP or use a MiniDSP or something if you go with a sealed sub, because you can gain a lot from it. I'm about to start tweaking with REW and a MiniDSP, and hope to really tighten up the sound of my new 18s. The best thing is you can, within reason, tailor the sound to a response you prefer, whether that's big output down low or more into the midbass region. I need to experiment with both. Do you have room to use the 18 nearfield?
Thanks, I think that's the best option. I do have room for the 18" nearfield for sure. I can fit it right behind both loungers.

I never really considered DSP too seriously, but I think I'm at the point where the next sub will require it. I've come a long way since being happy with my Polk PSW100. I think I am at the point where I can tell where there are nulls and dips in performance, and having DSP will help that a lot. Is DSP especially important with a sealed build because of the dropoff below 40 Hz and the interaction with the room?

Quote:
Originally Posted by unretarded View Post
I just did a sealed SI HT 18 build...for the driver and the box it was 200 bucks.... 20x20x37.5 box size for right under 7 cubic foot interior space.

The driver is rated at 600 watts RMS, I ran it off of 120 watts for a week or so and had lots of deep base.

Dsp makes a huge difference, a cheap Inuke 1000DSP used will do the trick.........that's the cheapest bang per buck good performing combo.....you can use your amp for now and save for a DSP model Inuke.

Takes music and movies to a whole new level.

I went from 4, ported 12`s to the single sealed 18 and it blows them away.
This is very encouraging. I don't have anywhere near the output of your 4 12" ported (I think you have 3 BIC F12s and a PL200 right? I believe I read your post earlier this week).

I was looking at the iNukes, and I think going with the 3000 might be a better long term solution for if (when) i decide to add another 18" down the road.

I have to state again that I am super jealous of the prices you get in the US for electronics. Things are significantly more expensive here in Canada, and our dollar sucks right now too.

iNuke3000 with DSP - $430
UM18 - $464
Sheet of MDF - $80
Paint/Stain - $20

With tax it comes out to $1,120. I could probably sell my current sub for about $500, but it's still quite a bit to fork out in the end.

Maybe I should take a road trip down to the US during black friday or something...
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post #17 of 23 Old 08-11-2017, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Spectre55 View Post
Thanks, I think that's the best option. I do have room for the 18" nearfield for sure. I can fit it right behind both loungers.

I never really considered DSP too seriously, but I think I'm at the point where the next sub will require it. I've come a long way since being happy with my Polk PSW100. I think I am at the point where I can tell where there are nulls and dips in performance, and having DSP will help that a lot. Is DSP especially important with a sealed build because of the dropoff below 40 Hz and the interaction with the room?

...I was looking at the iNukes, and I think going with the 3000 might be a better long term solution for if (when) i decide to add another 18" down the road.

...I have to state again that I am super jealous of the prices you get in the US for electronics. Things are significantly more expensive here in Canada, and our dollar sucks right now too.
Yeah, DSP is a huge help both in working out wonky interaction with the room (although it still can't fix deep nulls), and in boosting the low end of the response (just make sure you have the required power and excursion available). I modeled my small sealed enclosure against a ported enclosure twice as large and I was able to almost match the exact curve with either 2 parametric EQ filters or a simulated Linkwitz transform with a HPF to control over excursion. ***This is all theoretical still, I haven't implemented and measured yet.

If you're close to the border there are shipping services you can use. I used one in Niagara falls, NY and drove down to pick up my speakers. Good call on the inuke 3k DSP.

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post #18 of 23 Old 08-11-2017, 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Spectre55 View Post
See...those are exactly my thoughts. I had a little revelation when I placed my sub behind my seat a few days ago. I got a 200% increase in tactile feeling, didn't have to have the sub turned up too high that it was struggling, and some really deep, intense bass. I thought...the whole reason I have a sub is for these things...if I can get this from having it nearfield, then I am getting what I wanted!

Right now the small room in my basement where this is setup (actually smaller than I thought...it's 12'x8'x7.5' plus the little alcove thing at the back) is the only finished portion of the basement. Eventually when I finish the whole basement, I may not have the option of having a sub nearfield, but I am going to do my best to design it so that it's possible. If the subs behind the couch, it's completely hidden, which will make my wife happy as well. win win right?





Thanks, I think that's the best option. I do have room for the 18" nearfield for sure. I can fit it right behind both loungers.

I never really considered DSP too seriously, but I think I'm at the point where the next sub will require it. I've come a long way since being happy with my Polk PSW100. I think I am at the point where I can tell where there are nulls and dips in performance, and having DSP will help that a lot. Is DSP especially important with a sealed build because of the dropoff below 40 Hz and the interaction with the room?



This is very encouraging. I don't have anywhere near the output of your 4 12" ported (I think you have 3 BIC F12s and a PL200 right? I believe I read your post earlier this week).

I was looking at the iNukes, and I think going with the 3000 might be a better long term solution for if (when) i decide to add another 18" down the road.

I have to state again that I am super jealous of the prices you get in the US for electronics. Things are significantly more expensive here in Canada, and our dollar sucks right now too.

iNuke3000 with DSP - $430
UM18 - $464
Sheet of MDF - $80
Paint/Stain - $20

With tax it comes out to $1,120. I could probably sell my current sub for about $500, but it's still quite a bit to fork out in the end.

Maybe I should take a road trip down to the US during black friday or something...
Or, you could shop in Canada, although driver selection isn't as good.

Mach 5 Audio has the 21" FTW-LTE for $ 420 CAD shipped to your door. Out of stock at the moment, but you can email to see how long to have one built.

https://www.mach5audio.com/product/ftw-lte-subwoofer/

95% Synthetic bass since Y2K.
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post #19 of 23 Old 08-11-2017, 11:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spectre55 View Post
See...those are exactly my thoughts. I had a little revelation when I placed my sub behind my seat a few days ago. I got a 200% increase in tactile feeling, didn't have to have the sub turned up too high that it was struggling, and some really deep, intense bass. I thought...the whole reason I have a sub is for these things...if I can get this from having it nearfield, then I am getting what I wanted!

Right now the small room in my basement where this is setup (actually smaller than I thought...it's 12'x8'x7.5' plus the little alcove thing at the back) is the only finished portion of the basement. Eventually when I finish the whole basement, I may not have the option of having a sub nearfield, but I am going to do my best to design it so that it's possible. If the subs behind the couch, it's completely hidden, which will make my wife happy as well. win win right?





Thanks, I think that's the best option. I do have room for the 18" nearfield for sure. I can fit it right behind both loungers.

I never really considered DSP too seriously, but I think I'm at the point where the next sub will require it. I've come a long way since being happy with my Polk PSW100. I think I am at the point where I can tell where there are nulls and dips in performance, and having DSP will help that a lot. Is DSP especially important with a sealed build because of the dropoff below 40 Hz and the interaction with the room?



This is very encouraging. I don't have anywhere near the output of your 4 12" ported (I think you have 3 BIC F12s and a PL200 right? I believe I read your post earlier this week).

I was looking at the iNukes, and I think going with the 3000 might be a better long term solution for if (when) i decide to add another 18" down the road.

I have to state again that I am super jealous of the prices you get in the US for electronics. Things are significantly more expensive here in Canada, and our dollar sucks right now too.

iNuke3000 with DSP - $430
UM18 - $464
Sheet of MDF - $80
Paint/Stain - $20

With tax it comes out to $1,120. I could probably sell my current sub for about $500, but it's still quite a bit to fork out in the end.

Maybe I should take a road trip down to the US during black friday or something...
Quote:
Originally Posted by michael hurd View Post
Or, you could shop in Canada, although driver selection isn't as good.

Mach 5 Audio has the 21" FTW-LTE for $ 420 CAD shipped to your door. Out of stock at the moment, but you can email to see how long to have one built.

https://www.mach5audio.com/product/ftw-lte-subwoofer/
Good call on going with something from Mach 5 since he is in Canada. When did the UXL 18 jump in price so much? Didn't it use to be around $400 US not that long ago? I had considered getting one but not for $600 I would go with the 21" instead.

1 nearfield 21" Lol that should be FUN!

I did a WINISD of the UM18 vs the FTW LTE 21". Also if you go with the 21 get the Inkue 6000 since the 300 will not be enough power if you want to add another sub later on.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 21 vs 18.jpg (242.4 KB, 18 views)

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PSA XS30, Seaton Submersive, 2 Um-18 8cf sealed, Outlaw Ultra x 12, Kappa Pro 18LF, BFM Tuba 60 horn, B&C 18TBW100 6cf 41hz, 34hz, 28hz tune

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Last edited by bscool; 08-12-2017 at 12:12 AM.
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post #20 of 23 Old 08-11-2017, 11:58 PM
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Yea at that price I'd rather get an UM18 or jump up a little more a HST mkII.


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post #21 of 23 Old 08-12-2017, 04:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michael hurd View Post
Or, you could shop in Canada, although driver selection isn't as good.

Mach 5 Audio has the 21" FTW-LTE for $ 420 CAD shipped to your door. Out of stock at the moment, but you can email to see how long to have one built.

https://www.mach5audio.com/product/ftw-lte-subwoofer/
As much as I would love a 21" sub, I don't think I have room for it. Plus I'd have to get the inuke6000.

I didnt know these guys were in Canada. Good to know.

I would love to shop in Canada, but as I mentioned before the prices are pretty high. The only place I know of is www.solen.ca. If you know other places, I am all ears. I bought my SDX10 and BASH from CSS, but they've been sold and their new website isn't up yet. I am not sure what their offering will be like.
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post #22 of 23 Old 08-12-2017, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by unretarded View Post
I just did a sealed SI HT 18 build...for the driver and the box it was 200 bucks.... 20x20x37.5 box size for right under 7 cubic foot interior space.



The driver is rated at 600 watts RMS, I ran it off of 120 watts for a week or so and had lots of deep base.


Dsp makes a huge difference, a cheap Inuke 1000DSP used will do the trick.........that's the cheapest bang per buck good performing combo.....you can use your amp for now and save for a DSP model Inuke.


Takes music and movies to a whole new level.


I went from 4, ported 12`s to the single sealed 18 and it blows them away.
Where'd you buy the box for the 18" at?
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post #23 of 23 Old 08-12-2017, 07:26 PM
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Where'd you buy the box for the 18" at?
I built it...was super easy....lowes did most of the cuts...

Link to budget Home Theater build

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-ded...i-version.html
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