What woofer would you use for 15 or 18" build? - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 27 Old 09-17-2017, 06:16 PM - Thread Starter
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What woofer would you use for 15 or 18" build?

Considering DYI what 15" or 18" driver do folk suggest?

Thinking sealed to reduce footprint. That said any plan or bill of material suggestions?

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post #2 of 27 Old 09-17-2017, 06:20 PM
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I think to answer some more details would be helpful such as budget, room dimensions, amp your going to use, etc.
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post #3 of 27 Old 09-17-2017, 06:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Build cost for cabinet, driver and amp would be $600 - $800

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post #4 of 27 Old 09-17-2017, 06:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Looks like the amp of choice is the INUKE from Begringer. $200 appears to be the going rate. Would be in the listening room so I have a concern for for fan noise but the are Class D so should run cool I would think.

Guessing materials would be $150. Is that realistic?

That leaves $250 for the driver for $600

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post #5 of 27 Old 09-17-2017, 06:36 PM
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Quote:
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Build cost for cabinet, driver and amp would be $600 - $800
Will you be buying a flat pack or cutting/building your own box(es)?

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post #6 of 27 Old 09-17-2017, 06:44 PM - Thread Starter
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post #7 of 27 Old 09-17-2017, 08:11 PM
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You may want to consider separate midbass vs low bass subs... There are some who have build good 18s, while tremendous in low bass, still found the midbass lacking.

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post #8 of 27 Old 09-18-2017, 04:32 AM
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Stereo Integrity 18-V2. I'm running one in a ported mini marty enclosure. I'm sure it would sound great in a sealed.


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post #9 of 27 Old 09-18-2017, 06:31 AM
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For an $800 budget, you could get:

Behringer Inuke 3000DSP = $250
2 x Stereo Integrity HT18 = $320

That should leave enough for any a couple boxes, cables, etc.
Of course if you wanted a super expensive finish on the boxes, that would change things.
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post #10 of 27 Old 09-18-2017, 08:24 AM - Thread Starter
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What size would the cabinet be?

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post #11 of 27 Old 09-18-2017, 09:16 AM
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What size would the cabinet be?
As big as you can get it, but anything larger than 4 cubic feet should be a good starting point.

Additionally, if you can do a larger box size, I'd suggest moving to ported to maximize your setup. Slot ports are fairly easy to build (if you can build a sealed box, you can build a slot port) and really can make a big difference compared to sealed.

Also something that plays into suggestions are how big is your room, is it fully sealed or open to other rooms, are you on a slab or plywood subfloor, what amp are you using etc.

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post #12 of 27 Old 09-18-2017, 11:15 AM - Thread Starter
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It is an open concept.

30x26x9. The listening are and kitchen dining is connected with a 18'x8' opening making the two spaces virtually the same dimensions.

I don't need sub 20hZ for my taste. Music or movies rarely hit reference.

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post #13 of 27 Old 09-18-2017, 12:28 PM
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If only one sub I would port it or horn load it. Is size restricted?
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post #14 of 27 Old 09-18-2017, 12:53 PM
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My own vote would be to consider something like the B&C 18TBW100. It has a substantial efficiency advantage, lower inductance than typical HT subs, and sufficient excursion to produce significant output at 20hz. It would roughly equal an HT-18 at 20hz in the same sized box (5.5 cubic feet for example). However between 35hz and 100+hz it would have substantially more output with substantially lower distortion. I believe that B&C driver is about $350, and if you ever blow it, you can recone it for much cheaper than its new price.


There is also a new B&C 18DS115 coming that will have a lot more xmax and probably be a better option. I am hopeful it is priced similar to the TBW given the price of the other options, but it is not yet for sale from any of the known channels right now. I anticipate it being priced around $380, but that might be wishful thinking.


Another good pro option for cheap is the Dayton PA465S-8. It has higher inductance than the B&C and less XMECH, but its XMAX is very similar and it shares the same high power handling. Basically all of these options model at about 115db at 20hz. The difference is that where the SI-HT18 would still max out at about 115db's at 80hz, the pro drivers would both be at about 125db's. The Dayton really wants a bigger box though, it would do better in something that is more like 8-10 cubic feet and while you can tune it to 20hz, it would stay linear over a wider range if it was tuned to 25hz.


Data-Bass tests on similar drivers suggest all of them (the SI included) will max out a bit higher than the models suggest and in a room you can expect to see even more output due to typical room gain and boundary placement.
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post #15 of 27 Old 09-18-2017, 08:51 PM
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Since you don't care about low extension and price is low you might want to consider the the Dayton 18 from DIYSG. I think it goes to 20-25hz and has lots of output for mid bass. The best thing it costs less than $100. You can build a few of them. I personally like the Re XXX 18 but that eats up the budget and I am a low frequency whore because of my room.
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post #16 of 27 Old 09-18-2017, 10:26 PM
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Thumbs up

Definitely go 18", ported if you have room for a larger enclosure. Two is way better than one. Sealed will only show better low end extension below 10-14Hz vs. ported.

Mike
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post #17 of 27 Old 09-19-2017, 02:11 AM
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The BC DS 18 will not be as cheap as the TBW. I can get the 18IPAL for less money than the 18DS115.

I do think the pair of SI 18HT's and Inuke is the best value. Ported at 20hz would be a great setup. PLUS duel subs would help get a better even of bass in your room.
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post #18 of 27 Old 09-19-2017, 09:34 AM
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Build a couple minimarty's and you will be happy.
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post #19 of 27 Old 09-19-2017, 12:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Looking for just one box in the room.

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post #20 of 27 Old 09-19-2017, 01:03 PM
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The BC DS 18 will not be as cheap as the TBW. I can get the 18IPAL for less money than the 18DS115.

I do think the pair of SI 18HT's and Inuke is the best value. Ported at 20hz would be a great setup. PLUS duel subs would help get a better even of bass in your room.

Yeah I just got a price finally, they are $475 each.


You can get an 18ipal for less than $475? While it has a 2ohm impedance, that driver still has more excursion and greater power handling than the DS. I would take an ipal over a DS in the 18" size.
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post #21 of 27 Old 09-19-2017, 01:13 PM - Thread Starter
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What about Eminance drivers?

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post #22 of 27 Old 09-19-2017, 02:10 PM
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I know someone selling chase CS18.2 subs. Sealed and eminence drivers. They sound very good. Excellent mid bass. He has them on the classifieds I believe.
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post #23 of 27 Old 09-19-2017, 04:21 PM
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What about Eminance drivers?


There is nothing wrong with the eminance drivers. They are well made. They aren't on my recommended list because the competition is simply better. The Dayton sub offers more excursion and an excellent motor design for less than the comparable eminance. The B&C are as well made or better, have great motor designs, and typicsy have quite a bit more excursion. Their drawback is higher cost and sometimes lower sensitivity. When using a pro driver as a subwoofer, it needs to have sufficient excursion to handle the really low stuff.


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post #24 of 27 Old 09-19-2017, 05:29 PM - Thread Starter
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To recap my budget is in post #3 and the room size is in post #12.

I am more interested in bass from 20-80hZ. The tactile base below 20 is not my main goal but I will take it say down to 15-16 HZ if available.

Preferably I would like to keep the cabinet at 2x2x2 but could stretch 4" either way.

Thanks everyone for all the help.

The Marty Enclosure looks interesting.

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post #25 of 27 Old 09-19-2017, 07:54 PM
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SI 18HT are the best bang for the buck. If you had more room and a bit more coin I would say build the Othorns. They are 36" x 36" x 24" though. Play down to around 20hz also. Wouldnt need much else but a pair of those for most rooms. Maybe a future upgrade.
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post #26 of 27 Old 09-19-2017, 11:22 PM
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Ported, as big as possible, since you mention around a 2 foot cube....every inch you can add in any direction the better.


You are looking to do just one cabinet, so every little bit will count in cabinet and driver, depending on what type of output you are looking to get SPL wise.

Link to budget Home Theater build

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-ded...i-version.html
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post #27 of 27 Old 09-21-2017, 11:06 AM
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noobish .02, involving not much math . .

2 x 30" wide THTLP's and an Inuke 1000DSP

probably over budget but you have huge house / open volume
you want a small footprint : stand them on end . 18" x 30" pointed at about an 8' ceiling area
they also lie down and behave as furniture

<20 hz not an objective and huge response for your midbass range and beyond

unbelievably high efficiency , low distortion , smooth response

1/2" ply, lightweight and easy to dance around for placement

and no, that probably didn't really help but you wanted choices
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