Twin MartyCube with SI HT18s - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 32 Old 09-23-2017, 12:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Twin MartyCube with SI HT18s

Hey guys, figured I would try to document this build.

2x MartyCube
2X SI HT18
1X iNuke 6000dsp

I'm still deciding on how to finish these boxes, one will be out of the way mostly hidden, the other one will be in plain sight. Also need screws/bolts for mounting the woofers, any input?

Still got to figure out how to wire these up and where to drill the hole for speakon


I learned a lot from the following threads.

MartySub Flatpacks
MiniMarty Build Adventure

The twins...



Once I got this far, I realized i forgot to paint the ports black... pain in the ass to do it after lol, I did not make the mistake of doing this on the second one.








I will be going with deckover smooth for paint. Darkest color they could do it in was "Slate" which is a very very very dark gray, almost black. Should match my Q acoustic towers nicely.


primed, forgot how bad this oil primer stunk lol





Boxes are done, will mount the feet, drivers, chassis and run all the wires to where the amp will be located. My biggest hurdle is lugging these monsters downstairs, that should be fun.


Well I got everything mounted and brought downstairs last night by myself, Hole Lee Crap were these things heavy. I'm a very strong guy, and these things kicked my arse. Thank God I mounted the drivers downstairs, i would've needed another guy if I hadn't. It was in the upper 80's yesterday with high humidity in Boston, so I didn't get all the wires ran because I ran out of steam, but today I should be able to fire them up and get them tuned in when I get home

First sub is in its final resting location. Second sub needs to get pushed back flush with the couch once I run the wires.
I do NOT recommend the deckover product, it marks WAY to easily but I'm to lazy to redo it with something else.




Last edited by NickyB210; 09-28-2017 at 04:43 AM.
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post #2 of 32 Old 09-23-2017, 01:07 PM
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post #3 of 32 Old 09-23-2017, 01:31 PM - Thread Starter
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bought, thanks
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post #4 of 32 Old 09-24-2017, 06:28 AM
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Maybe a few simple strip braces from front baffle to middle, and from middle to back wall. One equidistant from each corner to the circular cutouts. Then from the top 4, a strip up to top. Same mirrored on bottom. See Picasso attached.
Wiring diagram courtesy of MPearl. Only note on the diagram is that the 4-pole right angle Neutrik will not interface with the 2-pole chassis mount but I think you ordered the 4-pole chassis.


Chassis mount can be anywhere, even through the port, just has to be well sealed.
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post #5 of 32 Old 09-24-2017, 07:17 AM - Thread Starter
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Maybe a few simple strip braces from front baffle to middle, and from middle to back wall. One equidistant from each corner to the circular cutouts. Then from the top 4, a strip up to top. Same mirrored on bottom. See Picasso attached.
Wiring diagram courtesy of MPearl. Only note on the diagram is that the 4-pole right angle Neutrik will not interface with the 2-pole chassis mount but I think you ordered the 4-pole chassis.


Chassis mount can be anywhere, even through the port, just has to be well sealed.
Thank you, since I have two subs, I will basically do the same wiring for the other and just hook it to channel B?
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post #6 of 32 Old 09-24-2017, 08:13 AM
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Yes
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Great job on the boxes!
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post #8 of 32 Old 09-24-2017, 08:36 AM
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Nicky, I’m glad my thread was able to help you out! Good stuff. Please let me know if I can help in any way.


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post #9 of 32 Old 09-24-2017, 04:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Great job on the boxes!
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Originally Posted by Oklahomie View Post
Nicky, I’m glad my thread was able to help you out! Good stuff. Please let me know if I can help in any way.


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Thanks! I think my only question now is the settings on the iNuke. I will do some more research.
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post #10 of 32 Old 09-25-2017, 06:21 AM
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Thanks! I think my only question now is the settings on the iNuke. I will do some more research.
-Install Behringer iNuke software (Behringer website, click downloads, find amp model in dropdown menus, download Editor software)
-Use included USB cable to connect PC to iNuke (or suffer the tiny iNuke screen of misery), should be plug and play
-On filter crossover tab set high pass filter to 20Hz (its lowest possible setting but we will work around that below), type Butterworth, slope 12dB (can always fuss with these a bit later)
-Low pass will be handled by your Denon's crossover settings, leave off
-On parametric EQ tab, Filter 1, gain -4dB, frequency 20Hz, type HS12
-This essentially acts to push the high pass filter down to ~16Hz per always helpful LTD02's guidance. Without this, you would be limiting how deep your Marty can dig below 20Hz, and no one wants that.
-Configuration tab, load 4ohm (you created a 4ohm load by wiring dual 2ohm voice coils as shown in diagram), adjust peak limiter to show 600W which is the manufacturer's suggested limit (though many seem to be pushing the driver past that)

Anything beyond the steps above would be tinkering with Parametric EQ filters to correct for your room.

Also remember to register the amp with Behringer for the full warranty. Shady practice but to get the full 3yrs you need to register. The registration website did not work for me and I've heard that I'm not alone (again shady practice). If so just email Behringer the serial number and proof of purchase and they will manually register for warranty.

Last edited by lavakv; 09-25-2017 at 06:28 AM.
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post #11 of 32 Old 09-25-2017, 06:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lavakv View Post
-Install Behringer iNuke software (Behringer website, click downloads, find amp model in dropdown menus, download Editor software)
-Use included USB cable to connect PC to iNuke (or suffer the tiny iNuke screen of misery), should be plug and play
-On filter crossover tab set high pass filter to 20Hz (its lowest possible setting but we will work around that below), type Butterworth, slope 12dB (can always fuss with these a bit later)
-Low pass will be handled by your Denon's crossover settings, leave off
-On parametric EQ tab, Filter 1, gain -4dB, frequency 20Hz, type HS12
-This essentially acts to push the high pass filter down to ~16Hz per always helpful LTD02's guidance. Without this, you would be limiting how deep your Marty can dig below 20Hz, and no one wants that.
-Configuration tab, load 4ohm (you created a 4ohm load by wiring dual 2ohm voice coils as shown in diagram), adjust peak limiter to show 600W which is the manufacturer's suggested limit (though many seem to be pushing the driver past that)

Anything beyond the steps above would be tinkering with Parametric EQ filters to correct for your room.

Also remember to register the amp with Behringer for the full warranty. Shady practice but to get the full 3yrs you need to register. The registration website did not work for me and I've heard that I'm not alone (again shady practice). If so just email Behringer the serial number and proof of purchase and they will manually register for warranty.
you are AWESOME! Thank man, I appreciate it!


I picked up a box of 1 1/2" pocket hole screws from HD to mount the drivers, having doubts on these though, not feeling to comfortable with them. My theory was to avoid using a washer but the heads on these still arent big enough.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Kreg-8-x-...-100/100543491
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post #12 of 32 Old 09-25-2017, 07:16 AM
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I used similar screws with washers on the SI drivers.I also added some plywood scraps on the back side of the baffle for extra security.
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post #13 of 32 Old 09-25-2017, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by NickyB210 View Post
you are AWESOME! Thank man, I appreciate it!


I picked up a box of 1 1/2" pocket hole screws from HD to mount the drivers, having doubts on these though, not feeling to comfortable with them. My theory was to avoid using a washer but the heads on these still arent big enough.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Kreg-8-x-...-100/100543491
Credit is not mine. To quote Sir Isaac Newton, "If I have seen further it is by standing on the shoulders of Giants."

I used common drywall screws to mount my SI HT-18 with a plumbers putty snake to form a nice seal. Bonus points for them already being matte black.
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post #14 of 32 Old 09-25-2017, 11:16 AM
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These fasteners have worked well for me so far. Strong, and with a "built in washer" flat head.



Oh yeah, and nice work so far! That looks like a cool finish option, looking forward to seeing it.
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post #15 of 32 Old 09-25-2017, 12:25 PM - Thread Starter
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These fasteners have worked well for me so far. Strong, and with a "built in washer" flat head.



Oh yeah, and nice work so far! That looks like a cool finish option, looking forward to seeing it.
Those look much better than mine, I may just go with some drywall screws since the its already coated and just paint some washers.
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These fasteners have worked well for me so far. Strong, and with a "built in washer" flat head.



Oh yeah, and nice work so far! That looks like a cool finish option, looking forward to seeing it.
I used those as well. With weather stripping from Ace Hardware.
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post #17 of 32 Old 09-25-2017, 09:22 PM
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I'd love to build some Marty's instead of buying some flat pack sealed boxes but I'm pretty intimidated. I've had absolutely zero experience with wood working and I'll be the first to admit it.

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post #18 of 32 Old 09-26-2017, 05:41 AM - Thread Starter
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I'd love to build some Marty's instead of buying some flat pack sealed boxes but I'm pretty intimidated. I've had absolutely zero experience with wood working and I'll be the first to admit it.

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It's not that hard, if you don't have a table saw, get the wood cut at your supplier. Hand him the cut sheet and throw him a couple of bucks and he'll gladly do it.
Brad nailer is the way to go, I don't think I could've done this with just glue and clamps lol


Update: The paint marks pretty easily, not sure if this was the way to go, I'll give it another coat though. I'm not sure if it was just dust on my hand or what.
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Boxes are done, will mount the feet, drivers, chassis and run all the wires to where the amp will be located. My biggest hurdle is lugging these monsters downstairs, that should be fun.

Anyone have a recommendation on where on the bottom to mount the feet? Holding all that weight with 4 points on a single piece of MDF has me concerned. Not sure if I should go right on the corners so the legs will hit some of the vertical pieces, or closer to the port pieces.

Amp is supposed to be delivered tomorrow so hopefully will get everything ready to just hook it up and start tuning
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+1 on the brad nailer.Don't know what or why I did without one.
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post #21 of 32 Old 09-28-2017, 04:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Well I got everything mounted and brought downstairs last night by myself, Hole Lee Crap were these things heavy. I'm a very strong guy, and these things kicked my arse. Thank God I mounted the drivers downstairs, i would've needed another guy if I hadn't. It was in the upper 80's yesterday with high humidity in Boston, so I didn't get all the wires ran because I ran out of steam, but today I should be able to fire them up and get them tuned in when I get home

Updated pics in the first post.
First sub is in its final resting location. Second sub needs to get pushed back flush with the couch once I run the wires.


I do NOT recommend the deckover product, it marks WAY to easily but I'm to lazy to redo it with something else. It matches my Q acoustics towers VERY well, but if you even touch it, it will mark white. Will update over time in-case the paint hardens at all, but as of now, DO NOT USE BEHR DECKOVER PRODUCT!

I predrilled holes for the drivers and used thick coarse drywall screws with a washer slightly angled, these seem ROCK solid but will update if anything changes.
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Look at us wielding our newfound dad-to-be Man-Strength carrying around Marty's

I had thought of using one of the textured decking products as well, sorry to see you don't like it but they do look very nice. If the finish is marking easily (something like very flat paint is susceptible to) maybe a rattle can of clear coat? Would give it some sheen which I wouldn't like but could help with making them more clean-able and resistant to smudging. Could test on the bottom.

Wait until you fire up the beasts...you will giggle like a school girl. I know I did.
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post #23 of 32 Old 09-28-2017, 04:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by lavakv View Post
Look at us wielding our newfound dad-to-be Man-Strength carrying around Marty's

I had thought of using one of the textured decking products as well, sorry to see you don't like it but they do look very nice. If the finish is marking easily (something like very flat paint is susceptible to) maybe a rattle can of clear coat? Would give it some sheen which I wouldn't like but could help with making them more clean-able and resistant to smudging. Could test on the bottom.

Wait until you fire up the beasts...you will giggle like a school girl. I know I did.
So everything is hooked up, but no woofer sound help!

I ran an auddesy test and I could hear 1 sub. Not sure what I did wrong.
I have the preset saved and loaded in the inuke. ugh

So I was able to get 1 woofer to play, with the denon receiver, I had to tur "subwoofer mode" to LFE +main. Still working on the second sub,.

Last edited by NickyB210; 09-28-2017 at 05:25 PM.
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post #24 of 32 Old 09-28-2017, 09:51 PM
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So everything is hooked up, but no woofer sound help!

I ran an auddesy test and I could hear 1 sub. Not sure what I did wrong.
I have the preset saved and loaded in the inuke. ugh

So I was able to get 1 woofer to play, with the denon receiver, I had to tur "subwoofer mode" to LFE +main. Still working on the second sub,.
How are you connecting in the back of the amp? Using Channel A and B INPUTS or just A? And then what mode in the amp are you in?

If just connected to Input A you will need to switch the Inuke to bi-amp mode to get output of both A and B channels OUTPUTs.

Also, note that using XLR will usually be out of polarity with the speakers if you are powering them with an integrated amp or external amps connected using RCA to RCA. So you will likely get the best FR switching polarity to 180. You can verify it by measuring using REW and comparing. It is discussed in this thread NU6000DSP Amp Rundown...

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How are you connecting in the back of the amp? Using Channel A and B INPUTS or just A? And then what mode in the amp are you in?

If just connected to Input A you will need to switch the Inuke to bi-amp mode to get output of both A and B channels OUTPUTs.

Also, note that using XLR will usually be out of polarity with the speakers if you are powering them with an integrated amp or external amps connected using RCA to RCA. So you will likely get the best FR switching polarity to 180. You can verify it by measuring using REW and comparing. It is discussed in this thread NU6000DSP Amp Rundown...

Dual mono
Each sub is wired into its own channel and each channel has its own input into the AVR
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Dual mono
Each sub is wired into its own channel and each channel has its own input into the AVR
So your AVR has a dual subwoofer output and you are connecting one output to Channel A Input and one output to Channel B Input on the Inuke?

What AVR do you have?

Edit I see you have the Denon x1300. Try switching Channel A and Channel B and seeing if the other sub plays to rule out a bad cable or connection. If switching Inputs makes the other sub play it should be a setting in the Inuke that is not set correctly.

Posting screenshots of your Inuke setting will help to see if it is something in there.

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So your AVR has a dual subwoofer output and you are connecting one output to Channel A Input and one output to Channel B Input on the Inuke?

What AVR do you have?

Edit I see you have the Denon x1300. Try switching Channel A and Channel B and seeing if the other sub plays to rule out a bad cable or connection. If switching Inputs makes the other sub play it should be a setting in the Inuke that is not set correctly.

Posting screenshots of your Inuke setting will help to see if it is something in there.
It seems as if the AVR is not recognizing the second subwoofer or the AVR never was intended to run 2 at the same time. I might try to mess with the Zone setting later to see if the second sub runs off the other zone, I dont know.

I did this for both channels A and B
On filter crossover tab set high pass filter to 20Hz (its lowest possible setting but we will work around that below), type Butterworth, slope 12dB (can always fuss with these a bit later)
-Low pass will be handled by your Denon's crossover settings, leave off
-On parametric EQ tab, Filter 1, gain -4dB, frequency 20Hz, type HS12
-Configuration tab, load 4ohm (you created a 4ohm load by wiring dual 2ohm voice coils as shown in diagram), adjust peak limiter to show 600W which is the manufacturer's suggested limit (though many seem to be pushing the driver past that)


I will post screenshots when I get home tonight.
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Originally Posted by NickyB210 View Post
It seems as if the AVR is not recognizing the second subwoofer or the AVR never was intended to run 2 at the same time. I might try to mess with the Zone setting later to see if the second sub runs off the other zone, I dont know.

I did this for both channels A and B
On filter crossover tab set high pass filter to 20Hz (its lowest possible setting but we will work around that below), type Butterworth, slope 12dB (can always fuss with these a bit later)
-Low pass will be handled by your Denon's crossover settings, leave off
-On parametric EQ tab, Filter 1, gain -4dB, frequency 20Hz, type HS12
-Configuration tab, load 4ohm (you created a 4ohm load by wiring dual 2ohm voice coils as shown in diagram), adjust peak limiter to show 600W which is the manufacturer's suggested limit (though many seem to be pushing the driver past that)


I will post screenshots when I get home tonight.
The sub outputs in your AVR cannot be controlled separately. They are connected internally. It would be the same as using a Y cable. The Denon site is misleading in my opinion "The AVR-X1300W provides for two subwoofers: positioned in different locations, they will even out the low frequencies, for more accurate bass anywhere in the listening area." But being it is Audyessy XT they are a single subwoofer output even if there is 2 of them.

Subwoofer
Set the presence of a subwoofer.
Yes
(Default):
Use a subwoofer.
No:
Select when a subwoofer is not connected


The above is from the X1300 manual, if you had dual subwoofer control it would show sub 1 and sub 2. Like below from the X3300 manual.

Subwoofer
Set the presence of a subwoofer.
2 spkrs:
Use two subwoofers.
1 spkr
(Default):
Use only one subwoofer.
None:
Select when a subwoofer is not connected.


Also just to verify. Did you wire all the Speakons using +1 and -1 on both Channel A and Channel B? If so that is correct. I would still suggest swapping Channel A and B when you can and that will tell you what to look at next.

Your Inuke settings look fine.

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post #29 of 32 Old 09-29-2017, 06:46 AM - Thread Starter
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The sub outputs in your AVR cannot be controlled separately. They are connected internally. It would be the same as using a Y cable. The Denon site is misleading in my opinion "The AVR-X1300W provides for two subwoofers: positioned in different locations, they will even out the low frequencies, for more accurate bass anywhere in the listening area." But being it is Audyessy XT they are a single subwoofer output even if there is 2 of them.

Subwoofer
Set the presence of a subwoofer.
Yes
(Default):
Use a subwoofer.
No:
Select when a subwoofer is not connected


The above is from the X1300 manual, if you had dual subwoofer control it would show sub 1 and sub 2. Like below from the X3300 manual.

Subwoofer
Set the presence of a subwoofer.
2 spkrs:
Use two subwoofers.
1 spkr
(Default):
Use only one subwoofer.
None:
Select when a subwoofer is not connected.


Also just to verify. Did you wire all the Speakons using +1 and -1 on both Channel A and Channel B? If so that is correct. I would still suggest swapping Channel A and B when you can and that will tell you what to look at next.

Your Inuke settings look fine.

I'll try to dive into the settings again tonight with a clear mind, maybe I missed something due to frustration. Yes, everything was wired +1 and -1, I actually double checked them all because I am super anal when it comes to wiring. I will keep you guys posted.
NickyB210 is offline  
post #30 of 32 Old 09-29-2017, 04:44 PM
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I would also suggest unplugging one of the cables between Denon and iNuke and sending that single input to both output channels (A&B). Forgetting the terminology Behringer uses for that setup but the graphic in the iNuke software is pretty self explanatory. Icons will light up orange to show you where ins and outs are going.

Sounds dumb, but you do have both gain knobs on the front of the iNuke at max right?
lavakv is offline  
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