And for the first post in this section: Help- I cut my hole too big for the driver. - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 13 Old 02-17-2006, 08:32 AM - Thread Starter
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I have a Klipsch SW-10 II subwoofer and the driver is bad. So I went to partsexpress and bought a kick butt replacement driver. I put it in and it was too tight, it wouldn't seat itself in the hole. So I broke out the jig saw and enlarged the circle a bit. A bit too much. Now I have to put the screws in at an angle to get them to grab and I don't think the box is sealed air tight anymore.

I'm looking for suggestions on what options I have for fixing this issue. :)
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post #2 of 13 Old 02-17-2006, 08:34 AM
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Maybe you should just build a whole new box. You can likely take better advantage of that new driver if you do.

If you're not willing to do a whole new box, try the bondo and some weather stripping under the rim of the driver.
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post #3 of 13 Old 02-17-2006, 08:52 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ---k---
Maybe you should just build a whole new box. You can likely take better advantage of that new driver if you do.

If you're not willing to do a whole new box, try the bondo and some weather stripping under the rim of the driver.

I'll give it a shot.
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post #4 of 13 Old 02-17-2006, 09:15 AM
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"Moretite", AKA rope caulk.
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post #5 of 13 Old 02-17-2006, 09:28 AM
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I would suggest some bondo and sandpaper.
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post #6 of 13 Old 02-17-2006, 09:43 AM
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Hi:

If you need to build up a small section - screws really give Bondo
good purchase on wood.

Regards,

rich
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post #7 of 13 Old 02-17-2006, 10:17 AM - Thread Starter
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When you guys say use bondo--- How? As in do I put the speaker in place first then bondo around it or would you suggest rebuilding up the hole alone, then sanding to the right area.
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post #8 of 13 Old 02-17-2006, 11:15 AM
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Go to Home Depot or Lowes, the sell a small Bondo kit with the two parts needed. Also buy the package of spatulas next to it. Put a small screw in the area that you are going to be patching, but don't screw it all the way down. Mix a little bit of the bondo together. The use the bondo to fillin or build up the areas that are short. Let it dry, sand, sand sand, build up more if needed, sand, sand sand, then when you get your hole perfect, drip the driver in. You can also rotate the driver in your hole and drill new screw holes that will be correct. Just be carefull of the edges.
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post #9 of 13 Old 02-17-2006, 11:27 AM
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It will take some effort, but I think your best bet is to replace the baffle or reinforce it with a new one over top of the original. It wouldn't hurt to increase the mass of the front baffle a little.
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post #10 of 13 Old 02-17-2006, 12:29 PM
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go to HD and get a 2x4 piece of 3/4 inch MDF. ($5)
Cut it the exact dimension of the side with the speaker.
Cut hole for driver. Glue, Screw to the existing box and sand,
Paint to match
mount speaker.
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post #11 of 13 Old 02-17-2006, 12:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Guys,

I calso called where I bought the driver. http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...0&ctab=14#Tabs and talked to teck support.

They told me to use sylicone (sp) and then add nicles to my passive woofer to tune it. Doesn't that sound a little odd? But hey. it's what they do, so I guess they know what they are talking about.
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post #12 of 13 Old 02-17-2006, 04:50 PM
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Using nickels to match the mass of the passive woofer to the active is pretty common , but I had always been told that the fumes from silicon adhesives can dissolve the surrounds in some woofers. Usually, you have to let it cure completely before mounting a speaker. Bigmouth's idea sounds like the easiest way to go.
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post #13 of 13 Old 02-21-2006, 02:46 AM
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Do as others say, buy a small piece of MDF. Cut out the desired driver size hole. Measure what you'll need to cover the existing baffle. Then remove only enough of the existing baffle to allow the new baffle to fit. Using 5/16 t nuts, and 5/16 cap screws, attach the new baffle in place.
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