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DIY Gallery

975K views 1K replies 439 participants last post by  phyton 
#1 ·
Lovin' the new forum. Thought I'd try to start that DIY gallery thread, with component links and total cost. Maybe separate ones for subs and speakers? Best to keep it pictures and links and no questions (Use PM for that).


Anyway, here's mine. I call it "The Low End"



Design: Sealed

Enclosure: ~ 3 cu. ft. (20" cube minus bracing, etc.)

Driver: 15" Quatro

Amp: 240W PE Plate Amp

Misc.: Beech Vinyl Laminate , Heavy Duty Grill Guides

Total Cost: ~ $275

 
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#53 ·
When companies like B&W and JAMO made their first gen THX certified systems, the subs were often stands for the L and Rs, so a small metal mount came with the system so you could screw don the L and R speakers...

Use a small strip of MDF the same width as the main speaker and two small metal L brackets. That way there won't be holes in the top of the sub later on...


Mark
 
#55 ·
The MDF can be a painted to match, but is used along with L plates to screw it together. I agree, the last thing you want is screw marks in the top of the SUB.


At worst, you end up with small screw marks in the back, but they should be out of site...


Mark
 
#57 ·
good thinking with the carpet anti-run stuff. i'll give it a shot since im too lazy to fabricate anything else.


oh ya if anyone else thinks the display on their DSP1124 (or any other component without dimming feature) is tooooo bright for nite time, go to ur auto parts store and get soem window tint. 10 bucks a roll... ya its 350% more than u need ... or go to a tinter and ask for scraps. helps a ton.
 
#58 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by irfan /forum/post/0


good thinking with the carpet anti-run stuff. i'll give it a shot since im too lazy to fabricate anything else.


oh ya if anyone else thinks the display on their DSP1124 (or any other component without dimming feature) is tooooo bright for nite time, go to ur auto parts store and get soem window tint. 10 bucks a roll... ya its 350% more than u need ... or go to a tinter and ask for scraps. helps a ton.

Another option would be to use the rubber bumpers that are typically used to hold glass in place (for example on a glass dining room table that has a metal frame - the glass sits on these bumpers to hold it in place and add a little cushion). These are available at Lowe's or Home Depot for a couple bucks. Depending on the surface, they tend to stick pretty well but are also easy to remove.


Nice idea on the tinting, I wish I would have thought of that before I threw away all my extra smoked limo tint!
 
#59 ·
#62 ·
Mine has been done for a few months, but I just finished putting the veneer on it....anyways:


Here is my Sub:

Driver: AE Speakers AV15 15" Longthrow driver
Amp: Oaudio 500W Bash Plate amp with PEQ
Design: See my Thread here



More tweaking and measurements still left, and finish on the sub still pending....but it is up and running, and sounding better than my $1300 SVS Ultra thus far
I will update as I get more results and do more work, but here are the results thus far:



for comparison, here is the SVS PB-12 ultra:



here are the results with the AV15 and Ultra in pair, no EQ:



ps- Big Thanks and Help from Chasw98 in the construction of it...couldn't have done it without his help and tools!


UPDATE: here is the final product!! (click to enlarge)




more pics here:
http://entertainment.webshots.com/album/550404344xwDkkr
 
#63 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by irfan /forum/post/0


Any ideas on how to keep the Left main speaker from walking across the top of the sub in bass heavy scenes? apart from bolting it down?

Auralex MoPad Isolation pads will do the trick. I use 2 of them for my left and right mains that sit on top of 15" avalanche subs.

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...91322?v=glance
 
#64 ·
Some very nice work here. Mods, please STICKY this thread...


Mark
 
#67 ·
Credit for the success of this project goes out to the guys over at HTGuide Forum's Mission Possible DIY, especially Thomas, Chuck, Steve, Ben, and collo. I could not have done it without all of their advice and knowledge.


Soundsplinter RLp-15 driver in 24" dia. x 46" H Sonotube, 300L net internal volume, 8" dia. x 33" L sonotube port for 17.5 Hz enclosure tune. Low-gloss dappled finish on end caps and floor plate is Plasti-Kote truck bed liner. Tube is covered in black speaker carpet. Port grille is DIY made from a ring of MDF and speaker grille cloth (cloth looks purplish in photo but black in person). The wall-mounted amp is a Samson S700 with each 350W channel driving one of the dual 4-ohm voice coils of the driver, for total of 700W. Amp is remote powered on/off by receiver's low-current switched outlet through a 15A solid state AC relay. Cost of build: driver $300, amp $300, materials and incidentals $200.










Uncorrected room response (tough room!)




Initial FR after equalization with Behringer DSP1124A Feedback Destroyer Pro (still tweaking)...




AutoCAD LT 2002 CAD model for download:
http://home.insightbb.com/~henry.men...h_dia_tube.dwg


.DXF CAD model for download:
http://home.insightbb.com/~henry.men...h_dia_tube.dxf


Design and construction thread
http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=18713
 
#69 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveCallas /forum/post/0


VERY nice, good work on the finishing. All these super flat FRs are tempting me to try a BFD out.

do yourself a favor and invest in some room treatments first...all the FR graphs are nice, but I would be willing to bet that as soon as the mic moves, the peaks and dips are back. might be nice for sitting in the sweet spot....
 
#70 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by need4speed /forum/post/0


do yourself a favor and invest in some room treatments first...all the FR graphs are nice, but I would be willing to bet that as soon as the mic moves, the peaks and dips are back. might be nice for sitting in the sweet spot....

I've been thinking about building some tube traps like these:

http://www.teresaudio.com/haven/traps/traps.html


but have been waiting to complete the sub and see what the specific issues are first. But this discussion should happen in another thread not the gallery.
 
#71 ·
Design Thread: http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=17748
Design: Ported, tuned to 17hz
Enclosure: 7.77 cubic foot box after subtracting braces, etc.; 24.5 x 24.5 x 33 external dimensions
Driver: Dayton 15" DVC
Amplifier: Rythmik Audio 250w Plate Amp with a 16hz rumble filter
EQ: None yet
Cost: around $320 total
Prior Experience: 1 - built some half decent speakers for a science fair
Summary: This was a really fun project to make. The whole process probably took about 6 months including all the research, ordering of the parts, and actually constructing the enclosure. This thing gets loud and low, but it still sounds good for music. I haven't tested it's full limits yet, but I've never heard it bottom out or anything. The finish is Duplicolor truck bed lining, I used a quart for basic coverage and then used a spray can to get a more even finish, holding the can about 2 feet away while I sprayed. The side panels are 22 x 24.5, and are covered by aluminum flashing that you can find at any Home Depot for about $10 for a 2'x10' roll.



 
#73 ·
Hey all, I'm a newbie and this is one of my crowning acheivements here. Tese were built about 3 years ago, I did my own rear speakers too but I think I could have done a better job. They ain't much but they sound great. Need to upgrade the bass drivers though. They perform great but I think I can get more out of the enclosure with better drivers. For right now as the saying goes, if it ain't broke don't try to fix it (yet).
 
#76 ·
Finally got this baby finished.

She's 22" high, 6.5cu/ft., slot-vented (tuned to 21Hz) and custom made for this corner installation. Enclosure is well-braced 3/4" mdf, with heavy flaked oak veneer. Finished with satin oil-based poly for durability and "teak gel stain" to match our existing oak furniture. Baffle is 1" MDF done with flat black, topped off with clear satin water-based poly.

Oh yeah, performance? Our open-plan house is now filled with very deep, smooth bass. This unit does have punch (when called for in many HT scenes) and works well in tandem with my existing XLS10/12PR unit that's powered by a Dayton 250 amp. Used some Larry Carlton and Sarah McLachlan material to check out it's "musicality" - easily passed that test.

The MCM Audiosource 150W buyout amp (on the right in the photos) powers the 4 BassShakers installed in our couch. Dialed in properly, anything below 80Hz is seamlessly heard and felt.

Watched a couple of episodes of 24 to give this integration a test run. Sean Callery's a genius with those throbbing low notes (you know, when Jack Bauer is caught in another %@ situation) that gets everything on the walls and shelves rattling. Holy Crap!!

Yep, I'm happy....don't know about the neighbors though??


Sub on end showing internal bracing:



Installed in corner (getting a little corner and floor loading here) with BassShaker amp on right:
 
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