New Project Sonotube RLP-15 - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 69 Old 05-26-2006, 02:59 PM - Thread Starter
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Well enspired by Steve NN and advise from Steve C I have decided to try a sonotube subwoofer. I already have an existing sealed RLP-15 D2 which is awesome but not thrilled with its HT ability. So I am gonna try a 260l (56"x20") sonotube with a 28"x6" port just for kicks (literally). Hehe
I dont have the luxurery of a router and roundover bits and such, so I may have a little extra sanding by using a jigsaw. I picked up the sonotube today locally after making the unsuccessful standard trips to local home improvment stores which dont carry large sonotube or 6" pvc pipe. Got the sonotube from a suppy house and pipe from a irrigation supply. Sonotube cut to size for $28 and 6" pipe was $11.
1.So now the questions do you make the top and bottom plate overhang 1"? And the base at 22" or 24"?
2. Will it be ok to recess the driver a full width of 3/4 mdf since I wont be using a router?
3.I have left over r-30 fiberglass insulation from prior project. Will that work ok? Also do you put anything on the port pipe?
4. what size dowels are used and what is the standard lenght?

I think this will get me started hopefully this weekend but I am not in a huge rush since I have great bass now. I ordered a few things from PE also that wont be here till next week. Thanks
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post #2 of 69 Old 05-26-2006, 03:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Few more shots.
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post #3 of 69 Old 05-26-2006, 06:10 PM
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Dang! I wish I could help you out more here Keith, but off you go on your tangent to build a sono. :cool: I'm a DIY box man to date except for the cylinders that I have bought (and still own) but I look forward to following your progress and impressions after your finished.
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2. Will it be ok to recess the driver a full width of 3/4 mdf since I wont be using a router?
Sure, if your going 1.5 (two 3/4" slabs) why not. It wont be as esthetically important though. It would help in keeping your base plate a little sleeker (gap) which would translate out to be a better looking unit imo.
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3.I have left over r-30 fiberglass insulation from prior project. Will that work ok? Also do you put anything on the port pipe?
It'll work fine. You can peel it in half very easily and go ahead and wrap the port..better safe than sorry.
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1.So now the questions do you make the top and bottom plate overhang 1"? And the base at 22" or 24"?
Have you heard that overhang is really necessary?

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post #4 of 69 Old 05-26-2006, 06:24 PM - Thread Starter
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[quote=steve nn]Dang! I wish I could help you out more here Keith, but off you go on your tangent to build a sono. :cool: I'm a DIY box man to date except for the cylinders that I have bought (and still own) but I look forward to following your progress and impressions after your finished.

Tangent...... look who cant stay with the same design for longer than 2 weeks! Hehe
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post #5 of 69 Old 05-26-2006, 06:43 PM
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1.So now the questions do you make the top and bottom plate overhang 1"?
The overhang is usually dependant on the thickness of the material used to cover the tube.
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2. Will it be ok to recess the driver a full width of 3/4 mdf since I wont be using a router?
It is if you make the endcaps 1.5" thick in addition to that initial 3/4"
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3.I have left over r-30 fiberglass insulation from prior project. Will that work ok? Also do you put anything on the port pipe
That's a bit thick, you only need R13 max.
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post #6 of 69 Old 05-26-2006, 09:28 PM
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With a 20" diameter tube, I'd make the end caps ~23" in diameter and the baseplate 24" or possibly a bit larger. As Thomas said with recessing the driver 3/4", that's fine as long as you then use 3 total layers of 3/4" MDF. As for the dowels, I used 1.5" diameter and mine are 8" long. After a few inches, it comes down to visual balance - for your size tube, I'd go with 5" long dowels.
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post #7 of 69 Old 05-26-2006, 10:05 PM
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I'd make the end caps ~23" in diameter and the baseplate 24" or possibly a bit larger.
Could I bother you for a explanation in regards. I'm not questioning the logic, but I do want to be sure I understand. Is the baseplate diameter larger do to the sub being 54" tall and could benefit from the extra support along with making it easier to build or for reflective purposes? From all the pics I see posted it really looks quite nice being larger in diameter, but admittedly I'm not used to it being done this way with the cylinder options I'm familiar with.
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Tangent...... look who cant stay with the same design for longer than 2 weeks! Hehe
Well I'm cheap labor, what can I say? ;) My main will be my main for a good long time this time around...it's just that I might wind up with two mains down the road thats all. :)

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post #8 of 69 Old 05-27-2006, 06:02 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks guys, Chas has convinced me that I need to get a router and I am coming to my senses. What will I need to look for and what bits will I need and do I need a jasper jig or are their other options?
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post #9 of 69 Old 05-27-2006, 06:41 AM
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Quote:
and do I need a jasper jig
[IMG]
It would certainly be nice to have, but if this is a one time project, another option might be going the $1 rout? Not the most professional looking, but it does the trick.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y75...n/100_0815.jpg

Quote:
What will I need to look for and what bits
1/4 straight will work well for your basic cutting, not forgetting to go with a (plunge) router when you pick one up. If you want to round the edges of your caps, then a 3/8 roundover bit will turn out a nice edge.

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post #10 of 69 Old 05-27-2006, 07:58 AM
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Could I bother you for a explanation in regards. I'm not questioning the logic, but I do want to be sure I understand. Is the baseplate diameter larger do to the sub being 54" tall and could benefit from the extra support along with making it easier to build or for reflective purposes? From all the pics I see posted it really looks quite nice being larger in diameter, but admittedly I'm not used to it being done this way with the cylinder options I'm familiar with.
It's mostly aesthetics. Sure, the larger baseplate will make it that much harder to tip over and lower the center of gravity even more, but I just find an oversized baseplate to look better. Of the sonosubs I've seen built with the baseplate the same size as the endcaps, the baseplate seems thin and it kinda throws the whole look off - but I could be alone in that opinion, I dunno.
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post #11 of 69 Old 05-27-2006, 08:53 AM
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the baseplate seems thin and it kinda throws the whole look off - but I could be alone in that opinion, I dunno.
No I think your spot on Steve. While many might be going with the lip thinking it's the way to go from the tech side of the issue, I cant help but notice how nice the lip really looks. I appreciate you clarifying this for me.

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post #12 of 69 Old 05-27-2006, 01:10 PM
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Here is a pic of my sub. It has the same size base as the tube. I was pretty roundly criticized for how the base looks in comparison to the tube but I like it. :)

Just thought you might like to see one so you could make a more educated decision.

*20" Diameter tube.
*30" long sealed tube.
*4" long legs made with 1 1/4" hardwood dowels.
*Base and legs are painted with Plasticote spray on truck bedliner. Most people told me Duplicolor was better so I bought a can of each and did a test piece half and half. I liked the Plasticote better and it applied easier.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c8..._base_demo.jpg


My subs play all the way down to 0 Hz!!! It's so low you can't hear or feel anything.

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post #13 of 69 Old 05-27-2006, 01:52 PM
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Good luck Nick. I have been considering the SS RLP-15 in a 20" Diam sonotube for a while now.
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post #14 of 69 Old 05-27-2006, 02:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Willd thanks for the encouragement! Dae3 thanks for the picture, I think I like the looks of 24" with the taller sub. I am on hold for a few days till I can buy or borrow a router. I am almost always a glutton for punishment but getting wiser with age and wasnt to crazy about doing all the work with a jigsaw only anyway.

What are you guys using to wrap the sonotube, carpet from HD?
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post #15 of 69 Old 05-27-2006, 05:15 PM
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I used a thin, neoprene-like fabric. Dust doesn't want to stick to it, it stretches but will retain it's shape, and it is a very flat black, not shiny at all. I had a seamstress sew it into a "sock", basically a cylinder that was undersized compared to the tube. When I put it on, I had to stretch it tightly over, and I left some material hanging over the edges so when I put the caps in, they secured the sock in place.

Very cheap and very effective.
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post #16 of 69 Old 05-27-2006, 07:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nick53
What are you guys using to wrap the sonotube, carpet from HD?
Mine is a black fabric I bought at a fabric store and had a seamstress sew into a sock. She only charged me $12 for the whole thing. :D Since mine is sealed I had the sock made to go over the top of whole sub.


My subs play all the way down to 0 Hz!!! It's so low you can't hear or feel anything.

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post #17 of 69 Old 05-29-2006, 03:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Well I went to my wifes favorite fabric store in cognito and bought some black speaker cloth that has good stretch a nice rich flat black look. I think I will have the wife sew it together like a sock as many have mentioned.
Picked up some extra mdf and bought a circle jig at a local woodworking store. Now I just need a router, arrrrg I can almost feel the pressurisation!
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post #18 of 69 Old 05-30-2006, 05:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nick53
Now I just need a router, arrrrg I can almost feel the pressurisation!
If you have never worked with MDF it is terribly dusty. I would consider getting a router with dust collection if you can. Especially if you are working inside. I did part of my work without the dust collection and I spent more time cleaning up than I did working. :o


My subs play all the way down to 0 Hz!!! It's so low you can't hear or feel anything.

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post #19 of 69 Old 05-30-2006, 01:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Man I am seeing circles..... Got all my circles cut except port hole, gonna do some glueing now. Wow man thats alot of circles to cut! Glad I used a router.
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post #20 of 69 Old 05-30-2006, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by nick53
Man I am seeing circles..... :eek: Got all my circles cut except port hole, gonna do some glueing now. Wow man thats alot of circles to cut! Glad I used a router.
I bet you're glad MDF only makes a little dust. :D
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post #21 of 69 Old 05-30-2006, 05:19 PM
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Dude - that 3rd pic is a doggy, not a circle...
:ROTF
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post #22 of 69 Old 05-30-2006, 06:22 PM
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Dude - that 3rd pic is a doggy, not a circle...
And a brown doggy at that. :)

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post #23 of 69 Old 05-30-2006, 07:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Thats my builder buddy! Samson the wiemaraner puppy and he's grey.
Well did a little glueing and sample fitting and looks snugger than I thought.
Even got on a coat of primer. What are you guys using to get a piano gloss look?
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post #24 of 69 Old 05-30-2006, 07:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Couple more shots!
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post #25 of 69 Old 05-30-2006, 08:11 PM
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Sweet.
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post #26 of 69 Old 05-31-2006, 03:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nick53
Thats my builder buddy! Samson the wiemaraner puppy and he's grey.
Well did a little glueing and sample fitting and looks snugger than I thought. :D
Even got on a coat of primer. What are you guys using to get a piano gloss look?
Hey nick:
Here is what I did to get the Piano Gloss look. Number 1 - Sand the MDF down to as smooth as you can get it (600 grit sandpaper) and the use wood sealer on the end caps and base plate. Sand between each coat of sealer for a very smooth finish. At some point (after the 2nd coat) you will probably want to use steel wool instead of sandpaper. Remember that what you do now impacts the final look. After wood sealer use primer on the end caps. Let the primer thoroughly dry before sanding and steel wooling it for a smooth surface. After 2 or 3 coats of primer, start putting very light coats of black enamel on the caps and base plate. After each coat use steel wool to get it as smooth and shiny as possible. I ended up putting approximately 4 coats on my sub. LET THE PAINT THOROUGHLY DRY EACH TIME! Did I say let the paint dry. You will find that finishing will take longer than building the damn thing. After you have put your last coat on, use rubbing compound to bring out the gloss and then wax or furniture polish. Rubbing compound is available from an auto parts store. That is how I did mine and it came out reasonably well. You can see your face reflected in it, so I guess that is glossy! Look at it here - http://www.cwitt.com/building_a_sonotube_subwoofer.htm

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post #27 of 69 Old 05-31-2006, 05:28 AM
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Looks great, you are gettiing close. I have to apply 1-2 more coats of paint and get my tubes covered to finish my two. My EP2500 will be here tomorrow and my two D2's on Saturday. I feel like a kid waiting on Christmas.
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post #28 of 69 Old 05-31-2006, 07:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Chuck, thanks for the painting tips and your frankness in regard to getting a router. Boy am I glad i didnt try to cut and sand all those circles by hand. :eek:

W8 I cant hardly believe your your building a pair, what fun!
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post #29 of 69 Old 06-04-2006, 07:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Well made some progress with some painting and thinking about completion soon.
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post #30 of 69 Old 06-04-2006, 07:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Few more shots. I glued the port tube in place and just need to router the top edge. I just need some long wood screws to attach wood dowels to both bases.
I attached a small thin wood base to inside of tube to help secure speaker posts.
Lined inside with about 1" thick fiberglass insulation. Everything look ok?
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