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post #1 of 62 Old 12-29-2006, 01:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Hello everyone:

I am a newbie who had spent these past few days on this forum and surfing the web as well to learn about sub and DIY. I have a big headache now!!!

I know nothing about sub and audio components! What I know is I do not want to spend $$$ at the local electronic store for a sub that obvioulsy cost a few $ to build. Ending on a site like yours gave me the thrill to build the sub myself. It seems this way I would get quality equipment for a fraction of the cost at the store, plus the satisfaction to build something myself.

My room is appr 28' X 16' X 9' ( +/- 4000 ft3). Main use is for home theater. I have NHT speakers (front, center, rear) and an Onkyo TX-SV70PRO that I got someting like 12 years ago. Use as been very light and equipment is working very well (I think!)

I am not looking for anything fancy and do not need to go wild. I just want a decent stuff to enjoy a good movie or cd. I am looking at spending $300 - $350 or so


1) What size sub sis suitable? 10, 12 or 15"?
2) Can you recommend a combination of face ampli and speaker?
3) Can you recommend an enclosure type?
4) Can you recommend an enclosure size?

Thanks in advance for your help.
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post #2 of 62 Old 12-29-2006, 02:36 PM
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1. 15" It's always better to turn it down that push a sub to the limits to get the volume that you want.
4. What is the maximum size you can live with? Read through the sticky thread at the top. You will see dozens of examples of subs raning from tiny to massive.
2 & 3. Answer number 4.

-Robert
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post #3 of 62 Old 12-29-2006, 04:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Robert:

thanks for the response.

1) Enclosure size: I would prefer to keep the enclosure size to 3 ft3 max. Smaller better but I understand that when you talk about subwoofer, it usually goes the other way around.

2) I visited an audio store today (they are in fact specialized in custom installation, not in selling components). The guy there told me my receiver may not have the power needed for a 15" driver. Not sure I understand why. Can it be the case even if you use a powered subwoofer? If so, below are the power output specs for my Onkyo TX-SV70PRO receiver:

Stereo mode
90 watts per channel min RMS. at 8 ohms, both channels driven, from 20 hz to 20,000 hz, with no more than 0.06% total harmonic distortion.
Surround mode
85 watts per channel min. RMS at 8 ohms three channel driven, from 20 hz to 20,000 hz, with no more than 0.06% total harmonic distortion. (FRONT/CENTER Matrix surround mode) 30 watts per channel min. RMS at 8 ohms 1,000 hz with no more than 0.08% total harmonic distortion. (REAR Matrix surround mode)

If any other things in the specs are important, let me know and I'll get those.

Thanks
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post #4 of 62 Old 12-29-2006, 05:12 PM
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Driver sensitivities vary. Actually a 15" may take less power per amount of spl than a 12" of the same design. A 15" is very little more money than a 12" and has far more capacity for output all else being equal.

I don't see that your receiver is rated into 4 ohms and alot of drivers are nominal 4ohms. This may or may not be a problem. Remember the low frequencies are the ones that require the largest amount of power. I'm not sure how much volume you want but in a 4000cuft room you're going to need more power more than likely.

If you could give people a better idea of volumes you listen to and maybe other subs you've heard it may help.

Odds are good you may need to up your budget or accept less than stellar results. If you want a sub that produces the lowest sounds from a DVD and with good power you'll have to spend more I think. If it's just for music and what I consider low volume on movies then you'll just be ok. Is there any way you can spend more money?

It's possible someone knows of a very sensitive driver and sub design which is inexpensive that may work ok in that large of a room. I really know very little but have spent alot of time doing research before I built my last sub and for 300 and trying to power it with a receiver I'd not do it yet myself. Better to get more money or at least plan on buying an amp. Many people use a Behringer pro amp that's pretty cheap and works well.

Many people like the Dayton 390 HO from Parts Express. They're on sale for 139 dollars with free shipping til I think next Thursday. These are output limited but supposed to be excellent for the money.

I know the HiFi version of the same driver I'm using has amazed me. They're both the same price and my sub cost about 300 to build. That wasn't including the Router, router bit or Jasper Jig I needed to buy. Fortunately I found a dirt cheap router off of Ebay, no doubt made in China, for 40 dollars shipped brand new. Works fine though and for just cutting circles I'm happy. I just bring this up as it's not common to have a router. The router bit cost 20 and the Jasper jig is also on sale from Parts Express for 29 bucks right now.

There's alot of people at http://www.htguide.com/forum/forumdisplay.php4?f=6 that are experts on building subs and will be able to make your project doable. I've only built the one sub but I learned that for 300 bucks you can build an excellent sounding sub. My sub is not really any good as a HT sub though. So I'd go for it if I were you. You'll definitely get way more for your money. Best wishes with your project.

Portland, OR
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post #5 of 62 Old 12-29-2006, 05:28 PM
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1. With a max of 3cf, you are going to be holding back a 15" sub. A 12" sub would work and you could even go ported.
2. The guy you talked to at the audio store was not well informed. Your receiver's power has nothing to do with running your sub. It will have its own amp. Even if he was talking about pushing your mains to keep up with your sub, then he was wrong. We are all about calibrating and over-engineering. Whether you run a 10" sub or a pair of 15's, neither will overpower a properly calibrated system. We just like building big so you don't push the sub to its limits.

If you are dead set on a your budget, go ahead and mark the BASH 300 amp from PE as something you need for $105 (shipped free). If you could increase the size to 3.5cf (net), you could use a Shiva Classic, a Dayton DVC 12", Ascendant Audio Assassin, Elemental Designs 13Kv.2 or a TC Sounds DB500. Those range from $75 to $150 (some include shipping in the price). That will leave about $100 for building materials and misc. parts.

Have you thought about building tall? Cloning an SVS cylinder sub is always a popular option that saves floor space.

-Robert
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post #6 of 62 Old 12-29-2006, 10:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:


If you could give people a better idea of volumes you listen to and maybe other subs you've heard it may help.

I do not have a sub, this would be my first. If by volumes you mean loud, we sometimes go very loud but usually we are very reasonable.

Quote:


you may need to up your budget or accept less than stellar results.

if it make a big difference, I will spend a few more dollars but where do you put the limit? I am not looking for stellar results but for something that will be enjoyable for the family. From a scale of 0 to 10, a 7 sounds good.

Quote:


If you could increase the size to 3.5cf (net),

I can do that. Will this allow the use of a 15"? I am flexible with the size of the enclosure but I do not want to build a monster either

Quote:


Have you thought about building tall? Cloning an SVS cylinder sub is always a popular option

Are you talking about sonosub type subwoofer? if so, I do not want to do this and prefer to stay with the more traditional box


I started to look at some of your suggestions and will continue to do so. I did not find all of them at partexpress.


Thanks for the advice.
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post #7 of 62 Old 12-29-2006, 10:42 PM
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I'd like to know if you are planning on powering the sub with your receiver? Also does it have pre outs?

I am actually planning on doing something that is small, sensitive and as small as possible like you. So I'm in the same boat. I do plan to use our HT receiver to power this HT sub in my own house. It was amazing my wife even ok'd it. Even though my receiver is rated into 4 ohms I still won't be shocked if the receiver is too wimpy to supply our HT sub with enough current.

Hopefully someone will chime in with a good answer as I'd like to do the same thing after I'm done with my next one. This is a case btw where the 12" actually will output less volume than the 15" in the same line. In effect you need more power to get equal volume(loudness) from the 12".

If this driver works out I'll let you know because Parts Express has free shipping right now

Our living room is smaller than yours and I don't expect that single driver to thump the windows but it should be satisfying for my family.

I just tried using WinIsdPro and it's telling me my Qes, Qts and Qms don't make sense.

I'll also look for a small sub to copy for us. There's a thread here called DIY Gallery of subs to copy and one at htguide.com under "missions accomplished". Under that go to Subs. I'll check the thread both here and over there. Be sure to let me know what you find also. It's kind of like a treasure hunt because I feel guilty having to ask other people for so much help. In the end though just take your time and you'll end up with an excellent sub especially for the money spent.

I still can't get over how good of quality of bass the sub that cost me 300 to build. I"ve been into high end audio for 35 years and although there's a ton of subs I've not heard I sure haven't ever heard one that is as accurate as the DIY I just built for under 1500. That's the truth. Like I said I've not heard by far the majority but I've heard subs costing upward of 2 grand that didn't perform as well as my 300 dollar sub The credit however really goes to the people who helped me.

If all else fails we can always call Parts Express or any other driver manufacturer and get their help. With Partsexpress though they're having a great sale that ends Thursday.

Portland, OR
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post #8 of 62 Old 12-29-2006, 11:29 PM
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If you look at the first post under DIY Gallery you'll find a sub that only cost 275 with a PE plate amp. It's really not bad and I think the plate amp the guy used is on sale. Plus you could get free shipping.

If you're patient I'll try modeling the RSS315HO 12" driver again and see what happens. The Vas is only like 1.62 so it may be a good candidate for a small sub. I've found that at all the different forums the very knowledgeable people have tons of respect for the Dayton Reference Series Drivers. Apparently they're as good or better than the main brand name drivers at a fraction of the cost. You'd still be within budget using it as they're only 40 dollars more than the Quattro.

Portland, OR
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post #9 of 62 Old 12-29-2006, 11:41 PM
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If you go to the HT Guide Missions Accomplished forum and go to: DIY Subwoofer Showcase you'll find a sub that's small using the RSS315HO. This is on the first page and the guy's username is: WRZ0117.

The sub is only an 18" cube and he claims it goes down to 25hz. If you used a different amp you could save the extra money I think and stay within budget.

Portland, OR
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post #10 of 62 Old 12-30-2006, 06:17 AM
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Going to 3.5cf (85L), will allow you to port the box with a 3" Aeroport and get a 20hz tune. Any of the 12's listed will work pretty good in this box. Since you are staying on the small side, a 12 in a properly ported box will sound better than squeezing a 15 into a less than optimal box.

And you will only find the Daytons that I listed at Parts Express. You will find the others at their appropriate web sites.
Shiva Classic - www.acoustic-visions.com - $111 shipped
Ascendant Audio Assassin - www.ascendantaudio.com - $90 plus shipping
Elemental Designs 13Kv.2 - www.edesignaudio.com - $75 plus shipping
TC Sounds DB500 - www.tcsounds.com - $135 plus shipping

-Robert
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post #11 of 62 Old 12-30-2006, 07:24 AM - Thread Starter
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Warnerwh, do you ever sleep?

I intend to power the sub with its own amp, not using my receiver to do this. You said you have built a good sub for less than $300. DO you have the info posted somewhere? I have looked at so many stuff that I may have seen it and don't remember. I have spent lots of time on the 2 forums you have mentioned but I missed the design you mentioned on Missions Accomplished and will have to look at this one closer.

I need to warn you that if you get too technical, you are going to loose me (Qes, Qts...) I do not master those terms and even looking at definitions, it does not really mean a lot to the novice I am.

It looks like that you are directing me toward seal box when rlj5242 (good morning!) seems to be directing me towards ported box. I do not want to start a debate concerning sealed and ported boxes but what it the basic advantages of one versus the other?

rlj5242, what would be the minimum size you recommend for a 15" driver? I thought a 3.5ft3 box would be big enough? is it because the box is ported and needs to be bigger? I could increase the size if the advantages are worthwile (by the way, thanks for taking the time to put all those links for me)

I have more questions but I need to think a little more about them rather than firing all of them and overwhelmed everybody.

Thanks again for the good advices
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post #12 of 62 Old 12-30-2006, 09:07 AM
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All sub building is a compromise. Put a large sub in a too small box and it will sound boomy. To have a large sub work in a small box, it will need a strong motor. The TC-Sounds TC-3000 will work but it has a 40 pound magnet to push the cone and it costs $400.

Port it and it gets better since it doesn't have to work against the air in the box. But to get a port large enough to not chuff, it will be longer than the box. Also, long ports have a resonance that can become audible.

Passive radiators will work with a small box but they add to the cost.

The Dayton 15" DVC is a less powerful sub but it needs a 104L sealed box to achieve a Qtc of .707.
The ED 16ov.2 only needs 85L for the same Qtc but it costs more.
The TC 3000 15" only needs 30L for the same Qtc but it costs over 3 times the Dayton.

As the size of the box gets smaller, the sub prices increase.

-Robert
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post #13 of 62 Old 12-30-2006, 09:34 AM
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If you look on the Parts express site, as others have mentioned, you look under "speaker building", then sub woofer cabinets. In most cases, they tell you what subs and plate amps that work with a particular cabinet.

A heads up, for 4000cuft room, you really need two subs. I use two 15" JBL, in 2.5cuft boxes for a 3100cuft room. I use a Crown K2 amp (800wpc) to power them.

You can start out with one, and then built another one at a later time, if you don't want to build both at the same time. You could either buy their boxes or build your own, using their dimensions.
Here is one such combination, there are others.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=302-822
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post #14 of 62 Old 12-30-2006, 03:42 PM
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Manau: If you go here: http://www.htguide.com/forum/forumdisplay.php4?f=39 and then to DIY sub showcase mine is the last one up there. And yes I do sleep but I better start getting in bed before 2 a.m. because I'll have to start going to work again.

I'm not trying to tell you to go with a sealed sub, as a matter of fact a ported sub will be better. Robert ,rlj5242, knows far more about it than I do. I know little even after hours and hours of reading and have only just started on my second sub so listen to him before me. I'd just tried to make sure you don't end up spending your time and money and end up with something that isn't satisfactory for you.

My sub is designed strictly for music reproduction and maximum quality. The box is a sealed 19w x 36h x 28.25d, weighs 165lbs and is not very sensitive so it needs alot of power. Also the 300 dollars I spent didn't include an amplifier as I'm using a Cinenova Grande's third channel which hadn't been being used as the amp is used to power woofers of my stereo speakers in a biamp configuration. The F3, where the output is 3db down, is 30hz with my sub.

In the end though you're going to have a sub far far better than anything you could buy for the same money so be patient.

Portland, OR
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post #15 of 62 Old 12-30-2006, 04:49 PM
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Robert, So the Dayton 315HO works well in a 3.5cuft box? How small of a ported a box use for the 390HO? I"d like an F3 of 20 if possible. This is for our HT and size is a constraint.

What's funny I was telling me wife about these huge subs and sent her pics and how alot of guys have problems with their wives allowing something that large into their living room. She says "well we don't have that problem". Yeah right, until I'm the one who wants to add a sub.

I'd like to order these parts soon due to the sale prices and free shipping. Thank You

Portland, OR
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post #16 of 62 Old 12-30-2006, 09:14 PM - Thread Starter
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For now, I will go with one sub and see how it sounds. I would prefer to go with a 15" if pricing remains reasonable. Concerning seal/port box, I can go either way... I guess I need a little more advices concerning sizes but I have some flexibility there.

Does any have tried those ready made enclosures at part express? are they any good? One of the reason I want to build the sub myself is because of the disappointment with the quality of what you can find in stores. I do not want to go that route again.

Warnerwh, great job on your sub. As you said, it is for music and is not really the use I am going to have for my sub.

Can someone suggest a sub/amp combination ?

Thanks for the info... very helpful!
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post #17 of 62 Old 12-30-2006, 10:50 PM
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manau: See what Robert comes up with. If he answers my last question you'll also be getting your answer. I need to do the exact same thing because I don't have alot of money to spend on this HT sub for my family nor do we need a killer sub, although if it were just me there would be a bad ass sub in our living room.

Thanks for the compliment on my first diy project. I learned alot. It has been very rewarding especially since for 300 I got a very high quality bass reproducer. I mean that thing is true excellence. It's very large and output capability could be better but it fit my needs well.

When you're looking for an amp to drive a sub or any speaker you need to consider the sensitivity of the speaker and the power of the amplifier. If a speaker is 88db with 1 watt at 1 meter that means it needs double the power of a speaker that is 91db sensitive. In other words for every three db more sensitive the speaker, you only need half the power.

A subwoofer can use alot of power and take alot of power so buy as much as you can afford.

Portland, OR
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post #18 of 62 Old 12-31-2006, 07:21 AM
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I haven't bought their boxes, just two 1" thick baffles, that already had the hole cut out for a 15" driver.
When I built my boxes, I used two layers of 5/8" mdf, completely glued together. Each side, top, bottom, back was stepped on all edges. In other words, as if I had used 1 1/4" mdf and then rabbited all the edges. So all the pieces interlocked, so to speak, providing plenty of gluing surfaces. The boxes are also braced inside, horizontally and vertically.

As for the sealed or ported thing here is a few facts.
First, as rlj5242 has already stated, for 15" the port's total lengths would longer than the sides of the box. So that would require using "elbows" in the ports to make them long enough. And you would want to use flared ports.
I have had at least one sub in continual use for 28 years. I prefer sealed, for a number of reasons. A sealed box will be smaller than a ported one. I the case of my JBL Sub1500s, they were designed to be used in a sealed box as small as 2.5cuft, or if ported 3.5~5.0.
4 & 5cuft boxes are huge. With ported 4.0 I did gain about 3~4db, but the transient response is better in a sealed box, and I find to be more musical. And in either case I was using the same 800wpc amp.
Also using unfaced fiberglass insulation, or other fill, will increase the virtual volume of the box. So with insulation @ the top, bottom, sides and back will make a 2.5 box considerably bigger.
After you get it built, to get the most from it, place the sub at the main seated location. Run the receiver's internal test tone. While the pink noise is on, walk around the room with a RS signal meter, set to "C", "slow". At the location the meter reads the highest db, that is where you want to place the sub.
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post #19 of 62 Old 12-31-2006, 07:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by warnerwh View Post

Robert, So the Dayton 315HO works well in a 3.5cuft box?

No. Sealed, 15L Fb=52hz, F3=53hz, Qtc .698.

Ported, 40L, Fb 22hz, F3 31hz. It pairs up well with the BASH 300 in this alignment. The only problem is porting it. It's almost impossible. A 3" port is over 2 feet long. This is where the compromise comes in. You can put a port in that twists and turns or use a passive radiator.

The PE sub I mentioned above is the DVC385-88.

Quote:
Originally Posted by warnerwh View Post

How small of a ported a box use for the 390HO? I"d like an F3 of 20 if possible. This is for our HT and size is a constraint.

120L (4.24cf net). Fb=20hz, F3=19.95hz. With 300w, you can get an estimated max output of 110db. Use a 4" port 42.61 cm (16.7") long. The 4" Aeroport from PE would work PERFECT. With the BASH300, this would be a killer sub for under $300 in parts.

-Robert
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post #20 of 62 Old 12-31-2006, 12:34 PM
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Thank you very much Sir!

I'm trying to learn to do this myself but for obvious reasons am still in a steep learning curve. I just finished trying to model another HT sub with two RL-P 15's. I don't know if I did it right or not. I posted it on another forum and hopefully someone will tell me if it's correct or not. It's a gift for my best friend and I'm trying to get him the most kick ass sub for his room I can. I don't know how his wife is going to like this 3'x4'x20" box in their living room. I already tried with my wife and she'll only accept a small one that we can hide

I've been into high end audio for 35 years and for various reasons am completely bored with it. DIY is easily the most enjoyable part of the hobby. I wish I got the tail out from between my legs a long time ago.

Portland, OR
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post #21 of 62 Old 12-31-2006, 03:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Robert (and al):

The following is a good summary of the combinations you have suggested for my application (trying to keep my head straight here). I have eliminated the options that would bring the cost well above $300

1) option1: 15" DAYTON RSS390HO-4 + BASH300 amp + 4.24 ft3 box with 4" port
2) option2: 12" DAYTON DVC310-88 + BASH300 amp + 3.5 ft3 box with 3" port
3) option3: 12" Shiva classic + BASH300 amp + 3.5 ft3 box with 3" port
4) option4: 12" Assasin 12 + BASH300 amp + 3.5 ft3 box with 3" port
5) option5: 12" ED13Kv.2 + BASH300 amp + 3.5 ft3 box with 3" port
6) option6: 12" DB500 + BASH300 amp + 3.5 ft3 box with 3" port

All of these options (if correct) are ported boxes. This is fine. I assume that if the box was sealed, it could work, the box would be smaller but would be tune at higher than 20hz. Does this make any sense? If so, could you give me an idea of the size and tune level?

7) what would I gain/loose/risk if I was going use the BASH500 instead of the 300?



4DH4:

It looks like you have a nice system... way more money than what I want to spend. I like the small size though.
I did not check HD but Lowes next door carries 3/4" MDF (4 X 8) for $22. I guess that will be what I will be using (1 ply for 3/4 or 2 glued together for 1 1/2")

Thanks everyone for the help. Everyone has been very helpful.
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post #22 of 62 Old 12-31-2006, 04:11 PM
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Manau: at bare minimum you want a double thickness of mdf on your front baffle. You'll also want some cross braces too. These with the back of the driver can take up some of the volume and should be accounted for.

I don't know how far you're pushing your budget but a subwoofer can eat up power in a hurry. One thing I hadn't mentioned earlier is that music and movies have dynamic peaks that can require the amp to put out a hundred times the normal amount it's running at for dialogue. In other words if you're averaging 3 watts at a nominal listening level and an explosion or car crash occurs it could need 300 watts. In my opinion the bigger amp may be the wise choice in the long run especially in a 4,000 cuft room.

Through the years I learned to anticipate a budget higher than I'd guessed on things I didn't know much about. In the long run it's better to spend a little more money in the first place rather than be disappointed I didn't. In this case I think it's really a necessity, it would be for us. You'll need every decibel you can get out of that sub for your room, assuming it can take the power of the larger amp.

Portland, OR
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post #23 of 62 Old 12-31-2006, 04:41 PM
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1-6 are all good options. #1 will move the most air, giving you the most output. Option 6 is my 2nd favorite.

7. More power that is overkill on some of those designs. Plus you would have to change some resistors on the circuit board since the sub-sonic filter on the 500 is set too high. Soldering is required.

Like warnerwh said, all of the enclosure sizes are net. You have to account for the sub, bracing, amp and volume taken up by the port. You treat the port as if it were a solid object.

-Robert
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post #24 of 62 Old 12-31-2006, 04:49 PM
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I'd go with 1 or 6, and I'd get the 500W amp for either. They can both use the extra power.
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post #25 of 62 Old 01-01-2007, 07:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Happy New Year to all!

The 15" DAYTON RSS390HO-4 is $16 cheaper (including S&H) than the TC Sounds 12" DB500. If I eliminate enclosure size, why should I select the DB500?

Robert, I am not clear on the amp. Are you recommending not to use the 500 W for my application?

Quote:


All of these options (if correct) are ported boxes. This is fine. I assume that if the box was sealed, it could work, the box would be smaller but would be tune at higher than 20hz. Does this make any sense? If so, could you give me an idea of the size and tune level?

any idea here?

Concerning my receiver (Onkyo TX-SV70PRO), I have one "mono out (subwoofer)" jack. The inputs on the BASV 300 and 500 are different. Is one better suited than the other for my receiver?

Thanks
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post #26 of 62 Old 01-01-2007, 02:34 PM
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Considering your budget, the size of your room, and the primary use..you should definitely build a ported sub.

On paper the two drivers are pretty much equal in output. I'd go with the Dayton because of the small savings. Either one would be a fine choice.

Go with 500W.
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post #27 of 62 Old 01-02-2007, 05:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by manau View Post

Robert, I am not clear on the amp. Are you recommending not to use the 500 W for my application?

Willd is correct that more power is better. The 500w amp will push all of those subs except for the db500 past their limits in most enclosures. Also, the 500w amp requires de-soldering and soldering of a pair of resistors to change the sub-sonic filter. The factory setting is set way too high.

-Robert
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post #28 of 62 Old 01-02-2007, 08:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Hello:

The headache is coming back! I do not have the knowledge or technical expertise to recognize what makes a sub or an amp better than another one or if they even need to be tweaked.
I looked at the specs for the BASV 300 and 500, and for the 15" DAYTON RSS390HO-4 and the TC Sounds 12" DB500 and it is like reading chinese for me.

Quote:


The 500w amp will push all of those subs except for the db500 past their limits in most enclosures.

What I understand here is that I could damage the Dayton but not the DB 500 if I push the amp to its max. Is it what you mean? Is it a real risk?

Quote:


the 500w amp requires de-soldering and soldering of a pair of resistors to change the sub-sonic filter. The factory setting is set way too high

what I understand here is that if was going to use the 300 amp, I would not have to do this. Remember please that this is a brand new adventure for me. Are we talking very simple soldering here or does it take some dexterity and experience? If I go with the 500 and do not change the resistors, can I damage anything or the only thing is that I would not take advantage of the driver/amp combination?
Will you be able to guide me through the resistors to replace and with what?

I may be stuck late in the office Thursday (hopefully not!) and may have to place the order tomorrow wednesday (sales at partexpress ends thursday, right?) to take advantage of the good prices.

Thanks in advance for all your help and sorry for the babysitting!
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post #29 of 62 Old 01-02-2007, 09:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rlj5242 View Post

Willd is correct that more power is better. The 500w amp will push all of those subs except for the db500 past their limits in most enclosures. Also, the 500w amp requires de-soldering and soldering of a pair of resistors to change the sub-sonic filter. The factory setting is set way too high.

-Robert

I know I make mistakes sometimes with modeling, but the 500w amp most certainly does not drive the RSS390 HO past its limits.

and he would want to change the hipass regardless of what amp he gets, for optimum performance.

Quote:
What I understand here is that I could damage the Dayton but not the DB 500 if I push the amp to its max. Is it what you mean? Is it a real risk?

No, there is zero risk. He must be thinking of the HF model.


Quote:
If I go with the 500 and do not change the resistors, can I damage anything or the only thing is that I would not take advantage of the driver/amp combination?

No you can't.

And there are at least a few guys on here who have changed the resistors..and I believe a few threads were made.
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post #30 of 62 Old 01-03-2007, 06:08 AM
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The BASH 500 filters out the bass below 30hz. The BASH 300 filters out bass below 20hz. You want the bass below 30hz. Depending on the box you choose, you may want the bass below 20hz as well.

The process requires identifying 2 resistors on a circuit board. You have instructions with the amp as well as pictures here to find them. De-solder and remove them. Add the two new ones that correspond with your new filter/boost values. We can even help you with the values that you need. The removal and replacement are all up to you.

And I may have modeled the wrong sub. When I get time later today, I'll go back to Unibox and see what I came up with.

-Robert
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