Ok, I emailed one of the sellers on ebay about the H100, asked them how much shipping would be to my zip code and they said "Lowest is 250 delivered-USA 48". Not what I was expecting seeing everyone else quoting numbers like $229. What id like to know is, for $250 can I beat the H100 in performance going DIY? What components would you suggest? I have a max budget of $300 but if I can beat the h100 for $250 that would be great. If not, H100 it is.
If you're willing to build the enclosure, then yes you most certainly can.
I am more than willing, just dont know what speakers to use. I know I want a vented enclosure something tuned to 20hz or lower if possible. Mostly home theater use probably 90%. I dont usually listen to movies very loud, i usually set my onkyo receiver to about 30-40. Wouldnt want too big of a box, space is limited with WAF. Bic is a good sixe, but seems a little small for a ported 12" to me.
You think the hi-fi would be the best way to go? Why not the high output or the regular 12"dvc? Just asking because in know the 12dvc has a lower fs and a little more xmax. Granted the hi-fi has more power handling....I dont know. 120 l would be a bigger box than i think i could manage. Can you model this setup with 3.5ft^3 in winisd or something for me. I cant seem to get any results with winisd that look "right".
Go with the Hi-fi without a doubt. You won't need the high power handling benefits of the HO but you will need the Xmax the Hi-Fi has to offer. And yes it is a better overall performer in this allignment than the DVC 12 for many reasons
Only time will tell what the future holds...so until then JAM LIKE THERES NO TOMORROW! -Rob
Ok, I think I have come up with a plan to utilize more space, Just have to convinc e the boss that it would be the best, decor-friendly option. Which in fact, it would be. I could build a furniture-style cabinet that would rplace a small piano bench that we currently have in our living room. Wouldnt be much bigger and would actually be nice looking the way I plan on building it. Ive been thinking about this all day, ha ha. Anyway given the space I have to work with, The largest INTERNAL dimensions i can do-not including bracing/port/driver displacement- is right at 5 cu.ft. Now, given that, I would like to MAYBE step things up a notch and go with an adire tempest, lol. Seeing as how I can get a tempest kit (tempest & 300W bash) from http://www.creativesound.ca/details....el=TEMPESTB300 and come out at around $300 after shipping plus a lttle more for materials. Or should I stick to the above design and increase the box size? Thoughts? A little extra money came my way because I sold my current HTIB sub for ~$100! With the tempest, I wouldnt really need to upgrade my sub when I eventually build a dedicated home theater, maybe just change the box to a bigger one with a lower tuning. If I went with a 12" for now, then Id eventually have to shell out more money for something like the tempest. Why spend the money twice you know? Of course I could keep the cost down by going with a 12 vs. a 15, but I assume the price difference would be negligable compard to what the 15 would bring,right? What Im seeing, the Dayton Hi-fi 12 + 300W Bash= $279.XX + Shipping. Tempest kit AFTER shipping $277.
Damnit, the price just went up $45 on the bash 300w from PE and the free shipping ended yesterday, thats why you see it as 279+ shipping.
The tempest kit looks like a fine idea.
Yeah I saw that too, sucks. I could have saved quite a bit by getting PE's 15" DVC since it is apparently similar to the tempest and the bash amp. Either way the 12" HF or the 15dvc and the 300W bash amp would cost the same. So....Only things that is leaning towards the 15 DVC instead of the tempest is the DVC could go in a smaller box. Dont know what size box the 15DVC would need to be in to give me similar results as one of the vented tempest plans which are all larger than my 5 cu ft cut off. I can go up to about 5.48 cu ft by using 4" feet rather than 5" on my plans. Any ideas?
Would a 12 in a bigger box give me the sub 20 hz tones that I could feel at a decent level? Would you model the 12HF in the 4or5 cu ft box lowest reasonable tuning possible or me so I can see what it would do? Sorry I hate to ask, but I always get some sort of "consistancy error" when I try to enter T/S into winisd.
It would provide good response from about 18Hz and up, I think. Better than the Bic anyhow.
That does look pretty good. whats that about 4.5 cu ft? Any real advantage with moving up to 5 cu ft? One last thing, what are your thoughts on the titanic mkIII? Costs a little more, about the same as the tempest, but wouldnt it give me a little more extension? There is just so much to condier here. Mkiii, RS HiFi, Tc-1000, Ascendant Assassin. Like the price of the assassin 12", dont know how it would perform compared to the RS HIFI though. If the TC-1000 was still on sale id snatch it right up. This is what I got when I plotted the RSHIFI and the Titanic mkIII, I put in the parameters from parts express used a 5 cu ft box with each tuned to 19hz. Not sure if I did everything right but here it is....for what its worth. Green is Rs HiFi copy and pastehttp://www20.brinkster.com/robv60/telescope/plot.jpg
The advantage isn't that big, no. If you want to make 'er a bit smaller, by all means. It certainly won't be a significant difference..hardly noticeable.
The Titanic would give you a bit more output. You could also go with the 15" Dayton RS HO as it looks good in a 4.5ft^3 box as well.
Your plot looks correct.
Im thinking at this point after plotting and plotting and plotting different drivers over the last few days that I may go for the Titanic 12" in a 5.4(net) cu ft box @ 18Hz using the rythmic audio 250W amp. From what I can tell, given this design with the rumble filter on the amp @ its pre-set 12hz cutoff, with 250W input power I shouldnt exceed xmax at all, would come very close at around 13Hz though. Not sure if I sould put the system input power @ 250W or whatever the MAX power would be(?). Cause if I put it in @500W, Ill exceed xmax quite a bit. Which should I do, because depending on that I may need to have the filter on the amp increased.
Use the RMS rating...which is 250W @ 4ohm for the Rythmik 250 amp.
You can have Brian change the rumble filter to better suit the design. You can model various filters in WinISD.
Yeah after searching through some posts i figured out how to model the rumble filter and the best I can tell the default 12 hz cut off they have it set at should suit me fine @250W. When looking at the cone excursion graph in WinISD, should that be set to show cone excursion @ RMS or MAX wattage?