To T-nut or not to T-nut?? - AVS Forum

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DIY Speakers and Subs

TJEli's Avatar TJEli
07:22 AM Liked: 10
post #1 of 10
01-29-2007 | Posts: 1,122
Joined: Sep 2005
If I were to T-nut the drivers in, whats a good size to use?

Thanks,

-Eli
Darin's Avatar Darin
07:35 AM Liked: 10
post #2 of 10
01-29-2007 | Posts: 5,999
Joined: Aug 2002
I considered t-nuts, but in the end, I just glued small blocks of wood to the back of the baffle in each spot where a screw would be. I already had some red oak that I was using for bracing... it's hard and holds screws well without stripping. It was right there in front of me instead of having to wait and pay for shipping, and is probably stronger anyway.
snackmasta's Avatar snackmasta
08:00 AM Liked: 10
post #3 of 10
01-29-2007 | Posts: 39
Joined: Dec 2003
Quote:
Originally Posted by TJEli View Post

If I were to T-nut the drivers in, whats a good size to use?

Thanks,

-Eli

You have to pick the correct size for the holes in the flanges of your drivers, but probably #8 for tweeters and #10 for midranges and woofers would work. The beauty of T-nuts is that you don't have to worry about stripping the wood on the baffle, even if you remove reinstall the drivers repeatedly.
Willd's Avatar Willd
09:04 AM Liked: 10
post #4 of 10
01-29-2007 | Posts: 5,647
Joined: Jan 2003
But if you don't install the T-nuts correctly, or in the right kind of wood, they will just strip out.

Me, I have had fine luck using good wood screws in straight MDF (and some OSB). After all, that is whats holding my 15" TC-2K in a vertical orientation.
TJEli's Avatar TJEli
09:07 AM Liked: 10
post #5 of 10
01-29-2007 | Posts: 1,122
Joined: Sep 2005
Quote:
Originally Posted by Willd View Post

But if you don't install the T-nuts correctly, or in the right kind of wood, they will just strip out.

Me, I have had fine luck using good wood screws in straight MDF (and some OSB). After all, that is whats holding my 15" TC-2K in a vertical orientation.

I suppose if the wood srews ever started to lose their grip that you could always drill out and switch to t-nuts.

-Eli
ecir38's Avatar ecir38
09:11 AM Liked: 10
post #6 of 10
01-29-2007 | Posts: 185
Joined: Aug 2006
This is where toothpicks come in handy.
chasw98's Avatar chasw98
09:37 AM Liked: 14
post #7 of 10
01-29-2007 | Posts: 1,085
Joined: Dec 2004
Quote:
Originally Posted by TJEli View Post

If I were to T-nut the drivers in, whats a good size to use?

Thanks,

-Eli

Look into the "Hurricane Nuts" on the Parts Express site. They seem to work much better than a standard T-Nut.

Chuck
thylantyr's Avatar thylantyr
10:31 AM Liked: 18
post #8 of 10
01-29-2007 | Posts: 3,887
Joined: May 2004
Another idea is to use insert nuts {home depot cabinet hardware area}, something like so.
http://www.woodpeck.com/media/main_inserthex.jpg

You drill the correct hole to install those, but before you install them you get some
JB weld epoxy glue as it hardens like a rock and you apply the glue to the nut and
then install it. It's pretty tough after a 24 hour cure. The 5 minute epoxies are rubbery,
don't use those.
Jack Gilvey's Avatar Jack Gilvey
01:19 PM Liked: 11
post #9 of 10
01-29-2007 | Posts: 6,210
Joined: Jan 2000
Quote:
Originally Posted by chasw98 View Post

Look into the "Hurricane Nuts" on the Parts Express site. They seem to work much better than a standard T-Nut.

Chuck

That's what I've been using, they work well.
PLincoln's Avatar PLincoln
01:28 PM Liked: 10
post #10 of 10
01-29-2007 | Posts: 1,862
Joined: Nov 2003
T-Nuts and some Poly Based Glue (gorilla, etc), right into the MDF. Have never had one fail yet...


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