How can i connect a CAR SUB AMP (12v) To an 110v home plug?
You need a power adapter, from alternating current to direct current. I just don't know about anything that will supply enough current to run something with as much draw as a car amplifier.
Try some google searches and see what is out there.
Chances are it will be much cheaper and easier to simply purchase the right amp for the job.
What you need is a 12v power supply. Depending on current demands on the amp you may need a large one. Be aware though the demands of some "SUB AMPS" can be high. Which in turn means high current power supplys. General rule of thumb would be 10amps for every 100watts. Although since this is for home you could probally get away with less. Even still a 40amp power supply is almost $200.
I am thinking that something at a second hand store or a yard sale will have everything I need inside to make a power supply for powering my car amp to use on my HT sub. All I need is to Google up a schematic?
If you are the Smartest of all your friends, then you're Dumb
Four of those make up our car amplifier test bench.
With music, you could likely get away with one of those and a decent battery to cover the louder passages as it wouldn't likely have a large constant current draw.
And because I know this is going to come up, I'll speak up on it now. Try not to use a computer power supply - they're not designed for the kind of transient loads a car amp presents. Some may last a while, most will not. I know of what I speak... I review computer PSUs for jonnyGURU.com. I can barely keep some of those things alive with a static load on them, much less the kind of transients a car amp is capable of.
The above unit Chris posted is a much better way to go about it, though still not as good as grabbing an actual amp intended for home or pro use.
Computer power supplies are designed for computers. PSU X might have one 12V rail with a maximum spec of 60A, and it might be able to manage that just fine, but it's not expecting to go to 0-60 over and over and over again in the space of milliseconds.
That's a rather dramatic example, as most of the time the car amp won't be doing anything close to that, but if the power supply's design isn't able to handle the demands of the load, the magic smoke tends to come out. Took me one movie night to do it myself... 900W PSU, 200W amp. Granted neither one was any thing special (Apevia vs. Visonik - I wasn't about to nuke anything good), but I've seen Corsair units die to car amps as well. You just can't tell what'll happen or how long it'll last when you're trying to match a computer power supply to a load it's not designed for.
You just can't tell what'll happen or how long it'll last when you're trying to match a computer power supply to a load it's not designed for.
Heh, it depends what approach you take. The brute force one usually works.
I know someone who runs 8 generic PSUs in parallel, and two scooter batteries, on a 1000 watt car amplifier. It works just fine. But prior to installing the scooter batts even with 8 "500W" PSUs (as we all know generic ones only deliver 70% of rated power or so but still 8 PSUs is a whole load of watts), the voltage would sag to 10v when he turned up the bass.
The thing is that with a car amp you're basically hooking a power supply to another power supply. All high power car sub amplifiers have an internal switching power supply which converts the 12v of the battery to a higher voltage, which is then used to power the amplifier. Because in practice, with 12v supply you can only get ~60 watts on a 2 ohm load.
Originally Posted by Ivan Beaver
The nice thing about standards is that there are so many to choose from.
The best car amp rig I have seen was a rack of 8 genesis AGM battery's strapped together with aluminum bar stock and a largish battery charger that put out 13.8v. That rig was making way more power than my bridged K1. He was powering 2 strapped mono block class d amps.
So you see unless you have a free supply of fresh quality battery's, just go buy a pro amp and be done with it.
I know someone who runs 8 generic PSUs in parallel, and two scooter batteries, on a 1000 watt car amplifier. It works just fine.
Probably because of the batteries. No telling how long the setup will last though, and that's the problem... one can't guarantee reliable operation. Is it really worth the trouble if you have to buy so many power supplies it exceeds the cost of the EP2500 one could have bought in the first place?
Originally Posted by NEO Dan
The best car amp rig I have seen was a rack of 8 genesis AGM battery's strapped together with aluminum bar stock and a largish battery charger that put out 13.8v.