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post #91 of 193 Old 11-11-2007, 10:03 AM
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Looks like I'm headed out to the hardware shop to find some custom bolts.

Nice project and pics. The custom rout is certainly a good option, but going with your standard 1 3/4 #7 or #8 course thread drywall screws work very well.. a guy needs do drill the proper pilot hole though. Actually to tell you the truth about it, it's the easier softer way going about it. Both options have their pros and cons, but nothing a guy cant get around.

Anyway, looking forward to your impressions and following your progress. Nice job!

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post #92 of 193 Old 11-11-2007, 10:25 AM
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I'm not an expert, but I would never put screws directly into the MDF if I could help it... especially not screws you might need to remove and reinstall in the future. The t-nuts are a great solution. Even if you stripped one, you could tap it out and replace it(maybe using a little glue when you put the new one in).

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post #93 of 193 Old 11-11-2007, 10:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by btp View Post

I'm not an expert, but I would never put screws directly into the MDF if I could help it... especially not screws you might need to remove and reinstall in the future. The t-nuts are a great solution. Even if you stripped one, you could tap it out and replace it(maybe using a little glue when you put the new one in).

Most of the time though, the t-nuts if stripped or crossthreaded will spin out and/or break out the MDF or even plywood if even if glued in.
I like to install the driver and test all of the bolts/nuts before putting the final panel on. If all is well then you will have no problems removing them in the future. If one does give you an issue, just put the vise-grips on the nut to prevent turning and you always get the bolt out even with stripped threads.

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post #94 of 193 Old 11-11-2007, 11:00 AM
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I'm not an expert, but I would never put screws directly into the MDF if I could help it... especially not screws you might need to remove and reinstall in the future. The t-nuts are a great solution.

No not really! If a guy is talking 3/4 then it's a probability it's going to happen if he removes and replaces the driver many times. Breaking a toothpick off in the hole remedies that quick enough though. What we're or I should say I'm talking about is 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 course thread drywall screws seated in 1 1/2 MDF or better. Striping just doesn't happen unless a guy drills the pilot hole to big or has the torque set on his drill to max, there is no way of stripping it by hand if properly done. I dunno, I have removed drivers in some enclosures up to 20-30 times I would guesstimate and have only had a few problems with all the different units I have played with. There are some, if not many in the DIY realm that cant stand T-nuts I assure you. That said, I understand the attraction of T-nuts, but once a guy has plenty of experience with both, don't be surprised if the common drywall finds favor. As for myself, I'm very glad considering how much I play with drivers that I have another option than T-nuts!

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post #95 of 193 Old 11-11-2007, 11:31 AM
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OK, I'll just have to take your word for it. I can see where you'd have good results using drywall screws with 1.5" or more of MDF and a pilot hole drilled at exactly the right size - not too big and not too small. Both solutions seem to have their pros and cons. Maybe I'll change my tune after removing and installing the RL-P18 a few more times.

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post #96 of 193 Old 11-11-2007, 07:25 PM - Thread Starter
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These machine bolts/hurricane nuts are certainly new to me.

In my car audio career I always used coarse threaded 1 7/8 drywall screws to screw the driver into the baffle.


I did have some negative experiences with the fine threaded drywall screws, easily stripping through the MDF but the coarse threaded ones seem to work okay, at least for the 4 or 5 enclosures I built. Although the biggest drivers I was using in the car were 12" and weighed less than 50lbs.

I saw many folks in the HT world using the machine bolts and hurricane nuts which IMHO look like they'd secure these large heavy drivers better.

Never thought about the toothpick trick though. Also worst case scenario you can rotate the driver and redrill the holes if they do strip out.

So do the drywall screws have the strength ?
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post #97 of 193 Old 11-11-2007, 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by mynym View Post

So do the drywall screws have the strength ?

I dunno, I don't trust them. They always seem to shear off pretty easily when I use them for other than their designed purpose.

I would rather have a connection with something from behind that clamps the driver to the wood. It helps make a better seal IMO. And you don't have the fear of over torquing and stripping them out...Of course, I was mounting 80lb drivers. It comes down to whatever you think will work best.

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post #98 of 193 Old 11-21-2007, 10:08 AM
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Doesn't make sense starting a new tread while this will do.

I really wanted to build my own, but due of not having the time and now it's freakin' cold outside, I decided to let eD build my boxes. For the price of the boxes shipped and the cost of the drivers, my total cost is no more than $1000!(I bought the IXL-18's at pre production prices.)

I want to thank the great folks at eD for their great customer service and especially Chris Schempp for giving me his personal attention. Was on the phone with Chris and he's a class act guy.

I'm having eD build me two boxes and here are the designs. 12cuft tuned to 15hz with the option to port block.




They should be at my house about a month from now. Can't wait!

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post #99 of 193 Old 11-21-2007, 10:49 AM
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Sweet. Looks like Chris is also using Google Sketchup. Nice touch with the rounded edges and everything.

Is that 3/4" MDF or 1"? Also, is the magnet of driver going to be supported by the one (vertical) brace? I'd think in order to do that properly, they would need a IXL 18 in-house to measure and test fit because you would want it snug when the driver is bolted in (the idea being to better couple the driver to the box).

So he's building two of those for you? And all that is still under $1000? Wow... that's an incredible deal! Believe me, building the boxes yourself is a LOT of work.

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post #100 of 193 Old 11-21-2007, 11:01 AM
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Believe me, building the boxes yourself is a LOT of work.

+1

Took me all summer to build my twins...and that was with help. Then again, I am not a very experienced woodworker.

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post #101 of 193 Old 11-21-2007, 11:05 AM
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Hey Brad,

Chris is going to use 1" in and out and no, the vertical brace is not to hold the magnet. Going to use screws. And yes, two boxes!

They'll be finished in black carpet only because they'll be placed underneath the screen to absorb any light. I want them to disappear.

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post #102 of 193 Old 11-21-2007, 11:11 AM
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Cool. I may have to put something like felt or carpet on the tops of my subs for the same reason (right under the projection screen).

Man, those boxes are gonna be really beefy... heavy and SOLID! I probably would have used 1" MDF if it was readily available, but HD and Lowes don't carry it. I'd probably have to go to a real lumber place and order some.

Good stuff, vitod. You're gonna love it! What amp(s) you going to use again?

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post #103 of 193 Old 11-21-2007, 11:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by btp View Post

Sweet. Looks like Chris is also using Google Sketchup. Nice touch with the rounded edges and everything.

Is that 3/4" MDF or 1"? Also, is the magnet of driver going to be supported by the one (vertical) brace? I'd think in order to do that properly, they would need a IXL 18 in-house to measure and test fit because you would want it snug when the driver is bolted in (the idea being to better couple the driver to the box).

So he's building two of those for you? And all that is still under $1000? Wow... that's an incredible deal! Believe me, building the boxes yourself is a LOT of work.

You know how much is sucks to roundover an edge on all 3 dimensions?

Don't do it

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post #104 of 193 Old 11-21-2007, 12:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Schempp View Post

You know how much is sucks to roundover an edge on all 3 dimensions?

Don't do it

Again, that's what is great about Chris and everyone else at eD. They want to please. Even if it's a little more difficult.

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post #105 of 193 Old 11-21-2007, 12:45 PM
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What amp(s) you going to use again?

I have an EP2500 and a QSC 3500. I'll try both and hear what sounds good.

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post #106 of 193 Old 01-29-2008, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by mynym View Post

My IXL18.4 arrived.



And for anyone else questioning the actual depth of the IXL18.4, here's a pic that shows the height next to a tape measure:



Thanks for the depth picture, I was wondering about the depth myself.

But how wide is the magnet? If the coke can is about 4½" then I'm guessing the magnet would be roughly 6 inches wide and 3½ inches high. Am I right? close? Anyone got actual measurements?

I emailed mach5audio about this but they haven't answered me (it was about a week ago)...
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post #107 of 193 Old 01-31-2008, 06:28 AM
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Originally Posted by shr-t View Post

Thanks for the depth picture, I was wondering about the depth myself.

But how wide is the magnet? If the coke can is about 4½" then I'm guessing the magnet would be roughly 6 inches wide and 3½ inches high. Am I right? close? Anyone got actual measurements?

I emailed mach5audio about this but they haven't answered me (it was about a week ago)...

I've got one at home that I can measure for you tonight.
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post #108 of 193 Old 01-31-2008, 03:56 PM
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Schweet!!!

If you wanna take it to the next level, which would be even schweeter, you can do a number of other measurements as well, check the SDX15 datasheet which is exemplary in my opinion.
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post #109 of 193 Old 01-31-2008, 04:10 PM
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Good to see people purchasing quality drivers from reputable companies and all this at great prices.

A well designed/built sub with one IXL18.4 in a EBS (LLT) configuration will fill even larger rooms with ease. Worst case,duals and these are sure to to the job.

Ask yourself mortal , do you have as much displacement as me ? The answer is no unless you have a Windmere fan sub.
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post #110 of 193 Old 01-31-2008, 06:18 PM
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Agreed. I have a pair of IXL-18's each in 12 cubic feet tuned to 16hz. It's a whole new level compared to the Atlas 15's I have.
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post #111 of 193 Old 01-31-2008, 08:11 PM
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This will be my third post, so hopefully I'll be able to post the pics right after this.
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post #112 of 193 Old 01-31-2008, 08:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shr-t View Post

Schweet!!!

If you wanna take it to the next level, which would be even schweeter, you can do a number of other measurements as well, check the SDX15 datasheet which is exemplary in my opinion.

Some pics.








...and some dimensions.





I hope that helps.
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post #113 of 193 Old 01-31-2008, 09:27 PM
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Great more IXL18.4 owners !

Ask yourself mortal , do you have as much displacement as me ? The answer is no unless you have a Windmere fan sub.
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post #114 of 193 Old 02-02-2008, 03:05 AM
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Evan, you're my hero
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post #115 of 193 Old 02-02-2008, 08:59 AM
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Evan, you're my hero

No problem.
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post #116 of 193 Old 02-02-2008, 08:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Evan: Thanks for the great pics. Welcome to AVS
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post #117 of 193 Old 02-02-2008, 08:58 PM
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I have 2 of them also.
roughly 12 cu.ft 6" port tuned to 13hz.





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post #118 of 193 Old 02-02-2008, 08:59 PM
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How would something like this mix with dual 19ov's sealed?? im looking to adding a large ported enclosure for more output down low...would this be a good option to add to?? or should i not intergrate them?? is this a better option down low than eD's?? any advice would be great!!

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edit: what are the dimensions on those dual boxes?? did you elbow the pvc?? nice speakers btw!!
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post #119 of 193 Old 02-02-2008, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by mdk2007 View Post

How would something like this mix with dual 19ov's sealed?? im looking to adding a large ported enclosure for more output down low...would this be a good option to add to?? or should i not intergrate them?? is this a better option down low than eD's?? any advice would be great!!

Ben

RL-P18 from Soundsplinter would be a better option if you can afford it.
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post #120 of 193 Old 02-02-2008, 09:25 PM
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would i be having to build 20+ cuft enclosure's like you a scott to get some serious output?? :P what would be a good size for a tune of say 14 or so?? thanks spezzy!

ps...what type of JBL's were those? LC1 or LC2 for center??
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