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post #91 of 330 Old 10-29-2007, 11:52 AM
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If that is your biggest error and you are stressed about it, that OCD sig is appropriate. A few secs with the orbital sander and that will be gone. The pros don't do it any better than that. Use caulk to fill in between the port tube and flare, you can wipe it smooth with your finger before it dries. I like the kind that is white but dries clear, hides smears better.
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post #92 of 330 Old 10-29-2007, 12:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Hahaha... well... what can I say?

I was just worried about getting a good bond and seal with the top panel. The other thing that bugged me is that it was a completely "unnecessary" mistake... just like the previous one I made. You think I'd have learned my lession. But I feel better about it now after laying the top panel on there and seeing that it still will sit nicely on all four sides.

I actually tried some white latex RTV caulk but it was too messy and I couldn't get it smooth. I think a little Bondo is the way to get what I want now... something I can sand after it dries. From what I've been reading, lots of guys have used it on/around their port flares with great success.

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post #93 of 330 Old 10-29-2007, 12:42 PM
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looks fantastic. Well done!
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post #94 of 330 Old 10-29-2007, 05:23 PM
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We all hate the little gaffes. You're doing great, man. That sucker has to be getting pretty heavy now, eh?
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post #95 of 330 Old 10-30-2007, 02:57 AM - Thread Starter
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Indeed... it has some heft to it! Even more so now with the top panel installed. I guess I'll have to go buy a couple of bathroom scales just to weigh the thing.

Made a little more progress tonight. Caulked some seams, stuffed five 20 ounce bags of polyfil into the box, installed the speaker posts/terminals, and glued the top panel on. I'll probably get another bag of polyfil in there before all is said and done.

Here's a "dumb question" for you guys: you know how speaker wire has a stripe on one of the conductors? Are you supposed to connect that striped side to positive or negative? Is there an official "right" way or convention one should follow? My knee jerk reaction is always to use the striped wire for positive.

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post #96 of 330 Old 10-30-2007, 05:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by btp View Post

Here's a "dumb question" for you guys: you know how speaker wire has a stripe on one of the conductors? Are you supposed to connect that striped side to positive or negative? Is there an official "right" way or convention one should follow? My knee jerk reaction is always to use the striped wire for positive.

yeah, that' qualifies pretty much as "dumb" but we all make them

you can connect it to whichever terminal you want, so long as you are consistent.....so if you hook it up at the "+" on one end, make sure the other one is also the same.
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post #97 of 330 Old 10-30-2007, 07:09 AM
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I always use the marked strand as positive also. I don't know if that is convention or not. All you guys with your 18's are making me feel inadequate..... As soon as my new house is finished I forsee some IXL18.4's in my future.
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post #98 of 330 Old 10-30-2007, 11:26 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ssabripo View Post

yeah, that' qualifies pretty much as "dumb" but we all make them

Gee, thanks.

Just doing a quick Google search, it would seem the convention tends to be the striped wire used for negative. *shrug* Of course I know it doesn't really matter as long as you ultimately get the polarity right (and all your speakers are in phase).

Regarding the polyfil... I was aiming for 1/2 pound per cubic foot, but I have to say with 6.25 pounds of the stuff in the cabinet, it's getting "full" pretty darn fast. I can't even imagine anyone using more than 1/2 pound per cubic foot! Talk about STUFFED.

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post #99 of 330 Old 10-30-2007, 11:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by btp View Post

Gee, thanks.

Just doing a quick Google search, it would seem the convention tends to be the striped wire used for negative. *shrug* Of course I know it doesn't really matter as long as you ultimately get the polarity right (and all your speakers are in phase).

Regarding the polyfil... I was aiming for 1/2 pound per cubic foot, but I have to say with 6.25 pounds of the stuff in the cabinet, it's getting "full" pretty darn fast. I can't even imagine anyone using more than 1/2 pound per cubic foot! Talk about STUFFED.

I always use the stripe or whatever markings for positive as well. Like you said, consistency is the key here.

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post #100 of 330 Old 10-30-2007, 11:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by btp View Post

Made a little more progress tonight. Caulked some seams, stuffed five 20 ounce bags of polyfil into the box

Quote:


Regarding the polyfil... I was aiming for 1/2 pound per cubic foot, but I have to say with 6.25 pounds of the stuff in the cabinet, it's getting "full" pretty darn fast. I can't even imagine anyone using more than 1/2 pound per cubic foot! Talk about STUFFED.

Ported boxes should not be 'stuffed' at the fill rate of a sealed box. The interior walls of a ported box should be lined with damping. The thickness of the lining depends on the material being used.
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post #101 of 330 Old 10-30-2007, 12:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomas-W View Post

Ported boxes should not be 'stuffed' at the fill rate of a sealed box.

Yes, I understand that. What I've read is that ported enclosures can be "stuffed" with up to 1 pound per cubic foot of polyfil, compared to 1.5 for sealed. So I set my target at 0.5 pounds per cubic foot. I thought that was reasonable and also in line with what Kevin Haskins recommended.

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post #102 of 330 Old 10-30-2007, 01:12 PM
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Obviously you can stuff anything. That said, IMO it's better to start out lining the box. Then add additional damping to hit the target Fb. And that's done with measurements.

Kevin H. is certainly knowledgeable about this, but I prefer Ken Kantor's methodology...
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post #103 of 330 Old 10-30-2007, 01:28 PM - Thread Starter
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My point was that even 0.5 pounds per cubic feet, which I thought was a conservative figure, seems like a lot of "stuffing" to me. I am familiar with the method of adding fill until the Fb bottoms out to determine the optimal amount of dampening. I have a signal generator, DMM, and an oscilloscope and I will measure the sub's resonant frequency when time permits.

All this talk about stuffing is making me hungry! Can't wait until Thanksgiving.

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post #104 of 330 Old 10-30-2007, 01:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by btp View Post

My point was that even 0.5 pounds per cubic feet, which I thought was a conservative figure, seems like a lot of "stuffing" to me.

I agree, 6.25 lbs seems too much for this box, that's why I posted.

You'll know for sure when you measure the impedance.
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post #105 of 330 Old 10-30-2007, 03:39 PM
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Great work here,the cabinet being the most important part of a DIY project I see you did not cut corners.

Once it is finished and rocking you will be smiling that is for usre.

Looks like 180-240lbs cabinet. Nice work on the braces !

Ask yourself mortal , do you have as much displacement as me ? The answer is no unless you have a Windmere fan sub.
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post #106 of 330 Old 10-30-2007, 05:01 PM
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Mmmm....stuffed crust. *drool*

Sorry.

I never worried too much about stuffing since I just lined the walls with thickish fiberglass and left it at that. Used polyfill for my tempest but I think over the years Ive blown out half of it. Lolz!

TheEAR - Are you still planning on building them dual 18's? Havent heard from you in a while.

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post #107 of 330 Old 10-30-2007, 08:51 PM
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Yes a quad 18" sub,I have ALL the tooling...just waiting for my SawStop table saw. After watching how safe this saw is and reading the very positive reviews this is my saw of choice.


Once the table saw arrives I will slowly begin the construction. The sub will be ready for 2008. No time to build any subs at the moment.

Ask yourself mortal , do you have as much displacement as me ? The answer is no unless you have a Windmere fan sub.
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post #108 of 330 Old 10-31-2007, 07:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheEAR View Post

Yes a quad 18" sub,

which drivers are you using?
what alignment?
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post #109 of 330 Old 10-31-2007, 07:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheEAR View Post

Yes a quad 18" sub,I have ALL the tooling...just waiting for my SawStop table saw. After watching how safe this saw is and reading the very positive reviews this is my saw of choice.

.

Thylantyr and I would like to see a real human appendage test on the saw stop!

Do you want to try it and post the video?

After all, how often are you using a table saw and eating a hotdog?

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post #110 of 330 Old 10-31-2007, 07:21 AM
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We have those saws here at work. I am always worried some kid will use damp wood and trip them out.
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post #111 of 330 Old 10-31-2007, 07:25 AM
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Quote:
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We have those saws here at work. I am always worried some kid will use damp wood and trip them out.

That could prove a costly mistake. How much is the apparatus and blade to replace?

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post #112 of 330 Old 10-31-2007, 02:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Geez... what the heck happened to my thread?!

I guess I better post some more pictures soon to get this puppy back on track.

On that note, the top has been glued on. I hit it with the orbital sander last night to clean up the edges and for the most part it is looking good. Tonight I hope to hit the edges with the corner rounding bit, do a little more sanding, and mount the driver. Still need to bondo up the port outlet. I am thinking to do the paint later, after the second cabinet is completed so I can paint them both at the same time.

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post #113 of 330 Old 10-31-2007, 04:10 PM
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Heheh...my thread went off track a couple time too. It happens.

Hellz yeah! Put up some more pictures, Bradley. Seems like its about gluing time, right? Thats right. Dont worry about mounting the driver yet. Just line it up and make sure it fits. Then paint both boxes together.

Yeah, put them suckers together and lets see some finished subs. Pronto!

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post #114 of 330 Old 10-31-2007, 05:30 PM
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BTP: Nice work. Looks really sharp.
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post #115 of 330 Old 10-31-2007, 07:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ssabripo View Post

which drivers are you using?
what alignment?

A last micro hijack...

I will be calling Audiuo Pulse and try to get a realistic price for four LMS-5400 18". Or else I will have to call Epik and try to buy four of the drivers (or similar)they use in the Conquest .

WIth all I have invested in serious tools,belive it.I am not going to cut any corners...only round them.

Back to the original thread,sorry for the slight intrustion.



Post more pics you sub should be a worthy contender among the heavyweighs.

Ask yourself mortal , do you have as much displacement as me ? The answer is no unless you have a Windmere fan sub.
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post #116 of 330 Old 10-31-2007, 11:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheEAR View Post

Post more pics of your sub. Should be a worthy contender among the heavyweights.

Your wish is my command!

Corner rounding completed:


Test fitting driver and installing "Hurricane" T-nuts:


Oh, yes... bigger *is* better!

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post #117 of 330 Old 11-01-2007, 07:16 AM
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You can really tell how tall that surround is from those pics, I didn't realize it before. If you wanted that beast truly recessed it would take 2 sheets at least.

Also, I like the way you think theEar!, you are clearly insane.. but in a good, soon to be deaf way.
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post #118 of 330 Old 11-01-2007, 08:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by price3 View Post

You can really tell how tall that surround is from those pics, I didn't realize it before. If you wanted that beast truly recessed it would take 2 sheets at least.

.

I think they use the same surrounds as the LMS and I recessed mine 1.5" and it still sticks out almost a 1/4".

They are indeed 'tall' surrounds.

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post #119 of 330 Old 11-01-2007, 12:03 PM
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That looks sick, Bradley! Awesome!

Hey! I love that the surrounds stick out a bit. Looks pretty slick to me. Mine was recessed a layer of MDF so just the surround sticks out. Looks kinda like a subwoofer carbonfiber spoiler on a nice sports car or somthing...you know, one that looks good and not a silver aluminum one on a red tercel.

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post #120 of 330 Old 11-01-2007, 01:46 PM
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I just read this post today, and I must say you do really good work, well done. I am about to start my little project and you have given me some tips and pointers. I have kinda learned from your mistakes. Keep the pics coming I cant wait to see what this looks like when finished.
-Rich

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