Finally, some SDX designs... - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 143 Old 02-19-2008, 11:44 AM - Thread Starter
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People have been asking me for SDX 15 designs, here is my first of 3

This one is an 8 cubic foot slot port design, tuned to 18Hz, great for big rooms or people who want lots of output, I'd power it with 1000-1500watts. A highpass filter would be nice, you could have it pretty low if you want, maybe 12Hz.



External dimensions are 27.75" high, 23" wide, 33.5" deep.

Here is the sketchup document, I designed the cabinet to be pretty strong, 1" walls all around, I took the cutting loss into account so all sides are actually 7/8". I think it would look nice in an all baltic birch ply box.

Up to come are the SDX 15 LLT and SDX 15 PR setup

The LLT will be 13 cubic feet and tuned to 14Hz, designed to be used with one of those 7" acoupower ports but lengthened to 34". The LLT can take 500-1000watts

I am excited about the PR setup, even though it will only have about 1 cubic foot less of effective internal volume from this slot ported design, it will be much smaller due to the absence of the port, and it will have a deeper tune.

More to come this evening and tomorrow...

***EDIT _Updated with baffles

 

SDX 15 slot port.zip 22.3349609375k . file
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post #2 of 143 Old 02-19-2008, 11:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Alrighty, here is the EBS box for the SDX, I decided to really go for a low tune, around 12.5Hz, it only has a 6" port but the chuffing doesn't become a problem until 13Hz or less at max output down there. I am not crazy about it, but I wanted a super low tune since this sub can handle it. You guys should get very solid 10Hz extension in room with this design, no commercial sub that I know of can do that, its 4.5dB down at 20Hz, 6dB down at 12.5Hz and 10dB down at 10Hz, that is REAL nice, I have attached a sketchup document with it and its cut list.



This design is for 3/4" mdf, if one of you is gonna build it in BB, and the thickness is different in your area, I can do another version per your request.

 

SDX15 EBS.zip 24.0693359375k . file
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post #3 of 143 Old 02-19-2008, 11:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Its about time...

I had to do a rough model of the sdx, I didn't know what I was doing at the time if I were to take the time to do it again, it would be much better, I didn't have any good pics when I did it. I also did a very crude model of the PR's just so I could see how things fit in the cabinet. This guy is quite small actually, I was going for a box kinda like the def tech supercube trinity, this one may have very similar output due to the fact that I have just as much PR area, a larger enclosure, and quite possibly similar driver displacement, I don't know what the excursion is on the Def tech's but somehow I don't see it being in the same league as the SDX.








Exterior dimensions are 21.75" deep X 21" wide x 32" high internal volume is around 6cubic feet after braces and driver/pr's, tuning should be right around 17Hz, with some stuffing and some added mass to the cones (up to 500grams each) you should be able to under 15Hz tune without a hitch, but personally, I'd stick with the 17Hz tune.
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post #4 of 143 Old 02-19-2008, 11:54 AM
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Nice design, Army. Although I'm using these drivers in a sealed design, I like the looks and idea of a slot port.
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post #5 of 143 Old 02-19-2008, 12:24 PM
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Sweet I am doing a PR design with either this driver or the AV15. Help me decide.

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10,000 Watts, custom built speakers, 10' CIH screen = Holy Crap
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post #6 of 143 Old 02-19-2008, 01:18 PM
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What would you recommend for me. I have a very large room (21x17, with 14 ft. ceiling) Enclosure size should not be a problem, I can probably go up to about 16 cubic ft. It would be used for 50% music, and 50% HT. I have about $1000 to spend. I also need a new amp. The $1000 does not include materials. Just speaker, and amp. Thanks.
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post #7 of 143 Old 02-19-2008, 02:52 PM
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I like it. This looks perfect for a design I'm looking for for a house I'll be moving into soon with some friends. This powered by a Crown XTi 2000 would be perfect. Built in shelf EQ for the highpass to prevent overexcursion.
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post #8 of 143 Old 02-19-2008, 03:00 PM
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The Crown shelf filter the lowest setting is 20hz just so you know.

Nate


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10,000 Watts, custom built speakers, 10' CIH screen = Holy Crap
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post #9 of 143 Old 02-19-2008, 03:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nasty N8 View Post

The Crown shelf filter the lowest setting is 20hz just so you know.

Nate

Oh...dang. Nate? You're not my boss Nate are you? That'd be funny...

Looks like I may need to invest in an active X-over.
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post #10 of 143 Old 02-19-2008, 03:46 PM
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Nope I work for myself at home in IL close but I do not want to be any further North.

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post #11 of 143 Old 02-19-2008, 04:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rudy2112 View Post

What would you recommend for me. I have a very large room (21x17, with 14 ft. ceiling) Enclosure size should not be a problem, I can probably go up to about 16 cubic ft. It would be used for 50% music, and 50% HT. I have about $1000 to spend. I also need a new amp. The $1000 does not include materials. Just speaker, and amp. Thanks.

Thats a big room, personally, I wouldn't worry much about going deep, I would do one or two of these slot ported designs depending on your budget. You have to remember that even this slot ported sub digs a lot deeper than most. Finding HT subs with sub 20Hz tuning is hard. SVS/HSU do this but they only use 12" woofers, not 15's with 30mm xmax, lol. Also, their subs have too small of port area at the lower tunes anyway.
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post #12 of 143 Old 02-19-2008, 05:14 PM
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Hey armystud, I want to build this enclosure since I have a SDX15 on the way. I also have a IXL18.4 coming also that I'd like to compare too. I'd like to build this enclosure with the sub and slot on the 33.5" side. What would the slot dimension have to be in this case? Thanks Bob
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post #13 of 143 Old 02-19-2008, 06:10 PM
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You could leave the port where it is and just move the drive to the side.
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post #14 of 143 Old 02-19-2008, 06:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geoffstgermaine View Post

You could leave the port where it is and just move the drive to the side.

I hear ya, but 2 of these need to be built into my bar, and I want the slot port to fire out of the toe kick area. So I figured I'd model them around this and I'll just build 8 identical enclosures.
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post #15 of 143 Old 02-19-2008, 06:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Trinanes View Post

I hear ya, but 2 of these need to be built into my bar

that'l be one rockin bar
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post #16 of 143 Old 02-19-2008, 06:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Trinanes View Post

I hear ya, but 2 of these need to be built into my bar, and I want the slot port to fire out of the toe kick area. So I figured I'd model them around this and I'll just build 8 identical enclosures.

You're building 8 of these for a bar? Holy cow. Is it a regular music venue? If so, what other gear do you have? Sorry for the off topicness, but wow.
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post #17 of 143 Old 02-19-2008, 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by XanderMoser View Post

You're building 8 of these for a bar? Holy cow. Is it a regular music venue? If so, what other gear do you have? Sorry for the off topicness, but wow.

I'm sorry, should have been clearer. The bar is located at the rear of my Theater, the other subs will be located on the front stage. It's a fairly large room at 36x25x11. Plus I'm a little crazy, amplification will be handled by 10 QSC or Crown amps.
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post #18 of 143 Old 02-19-2008, 08:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Trinanes View Post

Hey armystud, I want to build this enclosure since I have a SDX15 on the way. I also have a IXL18.4 coming also that I'd like to compare too. I'd like to build this enclosure with the sub and slot on the 33.5" side. What would the slot dimension have to be in this case? Thanks Bob

Wait, I am having a hard time understanding this, why do you want the slot port 33.5"? That dimension is the width that you want the front of the port to be right? If you want the slot ports to fire into the toe kick area, do you want the drivers to fire the same direction as the ports?

Right now the port has a cross area of 53 square inches and is about 47" long. You can change the shape of the slot port all day as long as you keep the same cross area and length, if you change the amount of area, you need to change the length, you can model this yourself in winisd. I do not recommend super thin slot ports though, with lower output drivers you can do 1.25 or 1.5" high ports, but with a driver this capable, I wouldn't go any less than 2". If you were to go 33.5" wide and 2" high, you'd have to make the port 16" longer to maintain your tune, also the box would have to be bigger to do this larger port.

Also, an IXL would work very well in this box, I am going to add a couple cross braces tonight.
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post #19 of 143 Old 02-19-2008, 08:25 PM
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The rule of thumb I've heard of for slot ports is that the aspect ratio (width:height) shouldn't be any more than 8:1.
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post #20 of 143 Old 02-19-2008, 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Nasty N8 View Post

Nope I work for myself at home in IL close but I do not want to be any further North.

Nate

Hey Nasty, I am not too far from you. I live in Spring Grove, IL
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post #21 of 143 Old 02-19-2008, 08:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geoffstgermaine View Post

The rule of thumb I've heard of for slot ports is that the aspect ratio (width:height) shouldn't be any more than 8:1.

Right, I try to keep them as non slit like as possible, I have seen people use quite a bit more than an 8:1 ratio before. Since a 33.5" wide vent would be giving you such a massive port area, the ratio isn't as important as the minimum dimension. Either way though, your right you don't want them too wide, I wouldn't do something that wide, perhaps he could consider doing a pair of drivers in that size cabinet and up the height of the port a bit.
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post #22 of 143 Old 02-19-2008, 09:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by armystud0911 View Post

Wait, I am having a hard time understanding this, why do you want the slot port 33.5"? That dimension is the width that you want the front of the port to be right? If you want the slot ports to fire into the toe kick area, do you want the drivers to fire the same direction as the ports?

Right now the port has a cross area of 53 square inches and is about 47" long. You can change the shape of the slot port all day as long as you keep the same cross area and length, if you change the amount of area, you need to change the length, you can model this yourself in winisd. I do not recommend super thin slot ports though, with lower output drivers you can do 1.25 or 1.5" high ports, but with a driver this capable, I wouldn't go any less than 2". If you were to go 33.5" wide and 2" high, you'd have to make the port 16" longer to maintain your tune, also the box would have to be bigger to do this larger port.

Also, an IXL would work very well in this box, I am going to add a couple cross braces tonight.

Sorry, should have explained myself better. The slot would still have the same width as the one you modeled, and it would be on the same panel as the sub. I just want to take your box and stand it up the tall 33.5" way. The sub and port would just get relocated to the 33.5"x 23" panel instead. Basically the enclosure would be 33.5 high x 23 wide x 27.75 deep. If I keep a 2"x 23" opening the port should essentially be the same lenght you modeled right??

That would be great if I could build this same enclosure for IXL18...
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post #23 of 143 Old 02-19-2008, 09:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Ahh, that makes perfect sense. All you need to do is take 3" off of one end of the port where it lies flush into the front of the box and add it to the top rear of the port where it opens to the driver, now this top rear part of the box will become the bottom front, its just common sense. Also, you would have to change the baffles around a bit, you obviously wouldn't need the double baffle on the top of the box. You may not need to double up the new front of the box if you reposition the internal braces so that each one lies flush with the edge of the driver cutout. You then wouldn't need that fancy circle brace but could do two of the braces with 4 simple rectangles cut out.
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Maybe this will make it clearer. Sorry so crude..
LL
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post #25 of 143 Old 02-19-2008, 09:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by armystud0911 View Post

Ahh, that makes perfect sense. All you need to do is take 3" off of one end of the port where it lies flush into the front of the box and add it to the top rear of the port where it opens to the driver, now this top rear part of the box will become the bottom front, its just common sense. Also, you would have to change the baffles around a bit, you obviously wouldn't need the double baffle on the top of the box. You may not need to double up the new front of the box if you reposition the internal braces so that each one lies flush with the edge of the driver cutout. You then wouldn't need that fancy circle brace but could do two of the braces with 4 simple rectangles cut out.

Thanks... I got it. I'll put one together this week. Internal volume and port lenght will be suffice for the IXL18 also??
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post #26 of 143 Old 02-19-2008, 09:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Yeah, lemme make those changes I described above so you can see them.
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post #27 of 143 Old 02-19-2008, 10:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Here, I think this is what you want

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post #28 of 143 Old 02-19-2008, 10:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Yeah the IXL would work very well in this exact same enclosure. Keep in mind that I changed the design on this vertical version, the driver is no longer flush mounted. To flush mount it, you will have to double the baffle to give you the strength necessary.
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post #29 of 143 Old 02-19-2008, 10:40 PM - Thread Starter
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BTW, a lot of subs can be put in this enclosure, it works very well for quite a few such as...
TC2000
Rl-p15
Fi Car Q15

You can take the last bend out of the design and higher tuned ED 19Ov.2 would work very well, about 23Hz tuning, lots of output and power handling. You could also add a bend and use an acoupower 15 with 16Hz tune, you need another 15" or so of port length though, or you could make the port smaller which I don't really recommend though.
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post #30 of 143 Old 02-19-2008, 10:56 PM
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Looks great! Would there be any difference in sound between the taller design vs. the longer design?
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