Marquee 8500 color issue - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 29 Old 03-17-2012, 10:14 AM - Thread Starter
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Hi Good People.

It's been a long while since I posted. Ken Whitcomb calibrated my 8500 three years ago this month and the picture has been great. But now my 8500 has suddenly developed a color/tint issue. Is a tube going out or is a board bad?

Is there an easy fix?

Thanks in advance for your help.





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post #2 of 29 Old 03-17-2012, 11:01 AM
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Are all three of your tubes working? Look like your blue tube is gone?
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post #3 of 29 Old 03-17-2012, 11:26 AM - Thread Starter
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Yes, all three are working.


(the camera's auto setting messes with the actual color)





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post #4 of 29 Old 03-17-2012, 08:47 PM
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can you post a proper pic of the grey scale again with correct camera setting.
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post #5 of 29 Old 03-18-2012, 07:07 AM
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CHeck your filament voltage to make sure the tubes aren't being cooked. If this was a gradual thing (or even overnight), a raised filament voltage over 6.5 volts can cause tube emission to drop or change.

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post #6 of 29 Old 03-18-2012, 07:12 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Curt.
Where can I find one of these filament voltage checkers and how do I check the voltage without electrocuting myself?

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post #7 of 29 Old 03-18-2012, 07:30 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tanwn1 View Post

can you post a proper pic of the grey scale again with correct camera setting.

Actually, I think the colors are true; the camera simply brightens the image.

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post #8 of 29 Old 03-18-2012, 09:52 AM
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somethings wrong. There is no way in hell those are the "calibrated" settings
I have never, EVER, seen a marquee dial in proper color temperature with Red drive at 49? This would make the picture pink instead of White, which is what you have now. Typically D6500K white dials in a Red drive of roughly 27, maybe a little higher if your using a filtered lens and losing a little output there.
Also, on a side note, Green drive is set for max output and software limited to 5% adjustment. Not sure why it's at 67? Default is 90. You set R+B to complement green in producing pure White from 0 to 100 IRE.

You can fix this easily. You can leave everything pretty much alone except red drive. Go into color temp. menu, cycle through it 4 times until it says red drive, push the # key until the the all white screen comes up. Now turn the Red drive down until the screen is white. If it starts to go bluish you've gone too low.

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post #9 of 29 Old 03-18-2012, 06:51 PM - Thread Starter
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I lowered the red drive to 16 but there is still a tint of red, and the other colors don't look correct. By the way, the settings I posted were at 3200K. Are they different for each frequency? Sorry, I've been away from the technical aspects for several years.

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post #10 of 29 Old 03-18-2012, 08:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim in Cincy View Post

I lowered the red drive to 16 but there is still a tint of red, and the other colors don't look correct. By the way, the settings I posted were at 3200K. Are they different for each frequency? Sorry, I've been away from the technical aspects for several years.

yes D3200 is red shifted. You Calibrator would have saved everything and calibrated to D6500k so something got switched somehow. Go into the pic menu and choose D6500, everything should be correct at that point.

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post #11 of 29 Old 03-19-2012, 09:47 AM
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I wouldn't do anything until you check that filament voltage. Running a set with an elevated filament voltage is asking for problems with the tubes. I PMed you about how to check the filament voltage.

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post #12 of 29 Old 03-19-2012, 04:46 PM - Thread Starter
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I'll get a voltage tester ASAP; until then I won't change anything, or even use the projector. It's been a long while since I understood (or tried to) the various settings. Following are the settings for the frequencies:
3200k
49/68
64/68
49/61

6400k
49/68
90/64
50/69

9300k
35/61
90/62
50/68

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post #13 of 29 Old 03-20-2012, 06:53 PM
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Some times the CLM goes wacky and the Greyscale and just goes out of whack.

Follow Tim Martins Grey scale set up . in there is also a picture of where to test the Filament( P14) voltage.

http://www.etechvideo.com/techtip1.htm

Athanasios
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post #14 of 29 Old 03-20-2012, 07:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the link. It's been awhile since I viewed Tim's info.

I hate to think that the professional calibration is now ruined.

I think a buddy has a voltage tester.

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post #15 of 29 Old 03-20-2012, 07:26 PM
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Well If Ken had the Marquee Loader program he might have saved the file on a PC. It can easily be reinstalled. Was there a VP also in the Mix that has any Greyscale capabilities?

Athanasios
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post #16 of 29 Old 03-20-2012, 07:27 PM - Thread Starter
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What is a VP?

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post #17 of 29 Old 03-21-2012, 03:52 AM
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vp=video processor
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim in Cincy View Post

What is a VP?

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post #18 of 29 Old 03-24-2012, 09:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim in Cincy View Post

I hate to think that the professional calibration is now ruined.

well the original numbers are saved in the pictures you took above, but they're obviously not right. I'm with nash, I think you had some form of memory glitch. The back-up battery on the control module is 15 years old now and might be acting up?

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post #19 of 29 Old 08-18-2012, 11:36 AM - Thread Starter
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Hi all.

Getting back to my dilema. What do I set the voltage tester to? See pic.

And do I have the Marquee plugged and and powered up? Or just plugged in?

Thanks.
jim


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post #20 of 29 Old 08-19-2012, 08:40 AM
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Jim don't worry, at this point we'll have this puppy licked by 2014 smile.gif
upper right hand corner where it says DC voltage, set it to 20. Machine needs to be full powered up, although if your really nervous about it you can unplug one of the vertical board connectors (directly behind the P14 connector on the hinged Aluminum heat-sink, under the meter in this pic). This will keep the high voltage from coming on and the tubes from lighting up.
Clip the leads to the 2 prongs on connector P14, anything over 6.5 volts is bad but fixable.

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post #21 of 29 Old 08-19-2012, 07:45 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm not getting any reading from the tester. I put a fresh battery in the tester. Could there be a problem with the tester?
jim

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post #22 of 29 Old 08-20-2012, 09:31 AM
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what do you mean by "not getting reading". If there is no readout of any kind on the display then it's dead. On a typical hand-held meter When testing for DC voltage the readout will jump around until you touch the leads together and the display window will settle down and show zero.

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post #23 of 29 Old 08-20-2012, 09:46 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm getting a reading of zero.

Why would I touch the leads together?

I'm going to test the meter by trying to get a reading on a 9v battery.

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post #24 of 29 Old 08-21-2012, 09:31 AM - Thread Starter
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I tested a 9v battery and confirmed the voltage tester works, but when I test the P14 pin connectors I get nothing; zero reading.

What next???

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post #25 of 29 Old 08-21-2012, 12:14 PM
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like I said, you touch the leads together prior to measuring ot zero out the meter and confirm it's working properly.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim in Cincy View Post

I tested a 9v battery and confirmed the voltage tester works, but when I test the P14 pin connectors I get nothing; zero reading.
What next???
with the machine running there has to be voltage here otherwise the tubes wouldn't be lighting up. What are you touching exactly? There's 2 metal prongs labeled P14, even with the connector engaged there is enough of the metal prong exposed to easily touch with the probes

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post #26 of 29 Old 08-21-2012, 12:38 PM - Thread Starter
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BTW, the tubes are not lighting up. The projector makes all the typical noises; static, clicks, but no image.

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post #27 of 29 Old 08-21-2012, 05:28 PM
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oh, well nice of you to mention that LOL. when did this start? If you disconnected the vertical board like i mentioned earlier this will keep the HV down and the tubes OFF, but you said your hearing the crackle right?

Look through the front grill, are any of the error lights on the LVPS lit? Any on the back panel on the control module lit in red? If not pull out the horizontal deflection board (between Blue and green tube) , clean the contacts on the bottom with isoproply alcohol and an old soft tooth brush. Pull off the small daughter board (held on with plastics crew), clean those pins too.
Re-assemble and test

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post #28 of 29 Old 08-21-2012, 06:17 PM - Thread Starter
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No picture as of the other day after not turning on the projector for a few months.

I have not disconnected the verical board; I don't know what/where that board is.

No lights while looking at the front of the projector. No red light on the control module. I did notice the vertical BNC cable was not connected.

"Horizontal deflection board"? You're speaking with an amateur and one that hasn't been into the technical stuff for quite some time. Any diagrams you can give?

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post #29 of 29 Old 08-22-2012, 08:33 AM
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look over the dozen or so pictures on Curt's site showing "marquee layout" = what is what and where it is. It will save a lot of typing here
HDM shown here
http://www.curtpalme.com/ElectrohomeMarquee_Layout2.shtm

Error lights on the low voltage power supply shown here, however the Oxidation on the HDM contacts often will not trigger an error light . Clean that board and report back, especially the small daughter board attachment. These will typically get so oxidized that theyre hard to pull up. Work it evenly until it pops off


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