Anyone for some Marquee Maintenance? - Page 21 - AVS Forum
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Old 01-28-2008, 11:17 PM
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Nashou. This bothers me little. Use correct values for those resistors. Example those 560 ohms are 560Kilo ohms Just that peoples dont order wrong components.
Same here, i´m waiting also those resistors..
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Old 01-29-2008, 12:17 AM
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Thanks Jarmo, i edited my post. My new values should be in today or tommorow.

Athanasios
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Old 01-29-2008, 11:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barcoguy View Post

2 each for HVPS
DIGIKEY Part # PPC220W-2CT-ND
RES 220 OHM METAL FILM 2W 5%
$0.60 each

Use Ohmite OY221KE for R5 and R46 - DO NOT use metal Film resistors in the HVPS.

For the Convergence and Vertical boards, there is some doubt if the listed parts are correct or not;
14 each for Vertical Board (6x2 + 2)
DIGIKEY Part # PPC.68BCT-ND
RES .68 OHM .50W 5% MF FUSIBLE
$0.94 each


24 each for Convergence Board (12x2)
DIGIKEY Part # PPC.68BCT-ND
RES .68 OHM .50W 5% MF FUSIBLE
$0.94 each

48 each for Convergence Board
DIGIKEY Part # PPC1.5BCT-ND
RES 1.5 OHM .50W 5% MF FUSIBLE
$0.51 each


See this thread http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewt...t=2769&start=0 over at Curt Palmes forums for more details on the mods you are looking at doing - read it ALL before doing anything!

I've put the convergence and vertical board mods on hold until I can clarify whether the listed resistors above are the correct ones to install
Paul
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Old 01-29-2008, 06:28 PM
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Thanks for the input. But I already order all of those parts. Looks like I will just have to wait to do those changes.

IÂm learning go easy on me. :-)
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Old 01-29-2008, 06:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nashou66 View Post

Barco guy with respect to the Ohmite resistors for your HVPS the 560 kohm is the speced value but some have found that they are getting a weird thing happening when you try to turn on only one tube at a time the other tubes my also have a grid or image visable as well but of lesser intensity. I would order a secon set of resistor with the values closer to the ones actually read after you take them out. if you have the same problem then try switching to the higher value resistors . I plan on getting 680 kohm ones since my old one read closer to 700 kohms.

This is not a proven fix yet so if you try it let us know the results. I am waiting for my parts to come this week and plan to try it as soon as possible.

Athanasios


I got some 680kohm as well thanks for the input!

IÂm learning go easy on me. :-)
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Old 01-29-2008, 06:33 PM
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Does anyone have a source for a new CLM battery mine is at 3.01v but Its a 13 year old battery so why not change it.

IÂm learning go easy on me. :-)
http://www.storyofstuff.com/
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Old 01-29-2008, 07:10 PM
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Tim in Phoenix has them.
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Old 01-29-2008, 08:12 PM
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Thanks so looking at my neckboards I have 50-2039-01P ISS. I am looking for the burn marks but I don't see any. Does anyone have a good example of what a burnt one looks like? If anything I see a tiny hair line crack. I will have to get out the microscope to see. I also looked for burns on the inductors but I don't see any. The chassis has 3k on 30k stby
http://www2.go-concepts.com/~campbell/DSC05821.JPG
http://www2.go-concepts.com/~campbell/DSC05822.JPG

IÂm learning go easy on me. :-)
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Old 01-31-2008, 10:06 PM
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Should I upgrade my CLM software version? I have 3.0

IÂm learning go easy on me. :-)
http://www.storyofstuff.com/
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Old 01-31-2008, 10:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barcoguy View Post

Thanks so looking at my neckboards I have 50-2039-01P ISS. I am looking for the burn marks but I don't see any. Does anyone have a good example of what a burnt one looks like? If anything I see a tiny hair line crack. I will have to get out the microscope to see. I also looked for burns on the inductors but I don't see any. The chassis has 3k on 30k stby
http://www2.go-concepts.com/~campbell/DSC05821.JPG
http://www2.go-concepts.com/~campbell/DSC05822.JPG

Those look good, I would just reflow the solder on them. I also just changed out the U4 opamp MC3402 with a lower noise TLE2072, I used the same series on the Focus board as well the texas instuments TLE2074. A little less noisy and a few other improvments over the motorola chips.

Athanasios
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Old 05-02-2008, 07:25 PM
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Does anyone have the gerber files for Sly's Gamma circuit?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attac...8&d=1046938941

Athanasios
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Old 11-25-2008, 08:56 PM
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I posted this with its own thread but I wanted it to be in a place where everyone can find it easier....

Hi Guys, I found a new way that increases the odds of getting the C-element out with less or no damage to the Bellow.

I first said you take off the back LC housing brace but I was wrong, you need to slide it back to give you more
working room to get of the Bellow from the back of the housing. First you need to remover the
pins that are used for Schliemfluge adjustments(Also keep the C-element ring in place till we get
the Bellow off the back)


Screw in to the pin an allen or other screw that fits the threads And Pry it out,

Prying out screw and pin




Pin Removed




Next remove any screws that hold front housing to back and dont loose the Springs.



So after you remove the screws and the top and bottom pivot plates you can move the
housing back to gibe more room to the bellow screws and for a razor or flat screw driver to help
pry it off after the metal gasket is off.

Lc outer Housing slid back to give more room



More room on top too !!!



Now more room for allen key !!! Woo Hooo!




Remove all allen screws, then pry off metal gasket.

Gasket removal



Now slide gasket out of way to front of housing



Now carefully remove Bellow from back of face plate with blade to start then finger
or you can use the blade all the way around if its on there good!!

Separating Bellow from face plate




Front of LC housing removed from face plate



Now take off gasket



Next remove C-Element retaining ring.



Now fold over the bellow onto the C-element and push the whole thing trough the
Housing hole, do it carefully, but it should be ok and not rip.

Folding Bellow




C-element still attached to bellow



Now you can much more easily get a blade to the bellow and
C-Element to separate them.

Carefully sliding blade between Bellow and C-element



C-Element removed and no bellow damage !!!!!!



i hope this procedure is easier than trying to take the C-element out while the metal housing
is still in place. I think it is.

And a down loadable PDF from My .mac site

Marquee Stuff

Athanasios
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Old 11-26-2008, 07:43 AM
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Hi All -- I just wanted to jump in on the C Element technique posted here. I used it to install a Red C Element last month and it worked well for me.

There was some debate on using RTV to reinstall the new C Element. I applied a very fine layer of RTV mostly because I didn't want the thing leaking once I got in up on the ceiling.

I wanna DRIVE!
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Old 04-23-2009, 07:27 PM
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BTW geocities is going to go away. A lot of the images are posted there and will need to be moved.

here is the eagle files for the gamma circuit

I tiled 4 together so I would get the min board size then cut them up.

 

Gamma.zip 23.875k . file
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