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Old 09-26-2004, 01:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Oh and Doug, totally unrelated question: I assume it's a good idea to use a UPS with the XG852 to avoid power dropouts & glitches, brownouts, etc. What size UPS would you recommend? The specs say it only draws 650W (though it also says 6.5A, which at 120V should be 780W?). Would an 800VA UPS be good enough, or should I use a 1000VA or 1250VA unit?
Edit: Oops, I guess the 1000VA APC units are only rated at 670 watts, so I guess that would be a minimum!
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Old 09-26-2004, 09:55 PM
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In the first few months of my XG-852 ownership, I had a number of bizzarre issues that didn't resolve until I restored to Factory Settings. I probably should have spent more time with the manual---like you are doing----or inquiries with Doug and Curt :)
Actually, what I did was a "reinitialization", which is an even more risky procedure. I later learned that going to "Factory Settings" seems to accomplish the same thing for most of the picture adjustments.

The restore that I did accomplished what I had hoped for, which was reset everything to much more normal looking defaults, and it did allow me to get to a much better setup than I had before. My best guess would be that this would not hurt your situation, and possibly help.

Does it seem inevitable that you will need to replace the tubes? or get someone it for a professional calibration and setup? That would seem to weigh in favor of experimentation---provided, of course, that you are only doing things with a very small risk of doing permanent damage. (I'm sure Doug is ready to scold me now!)

This is obviously the type of advice for which the phrase "at your own risk" was invented...

-djf

Tank: So what do you need? Besides a miracle.
Neo: Guns. Lots of guns..
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Old 09-26-2004, 09:58 PM - Thread Starter
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No, the tubes are actually in very good condition. That, and my budget, indicate no new tubes anytime soon. So I really don't want to blow anything up while I'm learning my way around the beastie.
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Old 10-01-2004, 10:44 AM - Thread Starter
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OK. When last we left our hero, we had established that the shutdown with Fd error seemed to be caused by a bogus Svideo entry. This apparently took some signals into the danger zone and the HV protection circuitry tripped to avoid damage, producing the Fd error. By setting the AKB switch to the TEST position, I was able to power up the PJ and select another video input. Doug said I should go ahead and delete the bad Svideo entry, but that it was imperative that I get a VIDEO input for the calibration phase.

Brief pause while life interferes with HT setup, and I go get some RCA->BNC converters for my composite video cable. Meanwhile Doug pointed me to another thread that explains why it's a Bad Idea to reset your XG.

Days later, I finally have the necessary connections to feed composite video into the projector's VIDEO input. So it's time to delete that Svideo entry and see if I can get this thing calibrated right. I popped the Avia disk into the DVD player, hooked up the video-out to the PJ, and powered up the XG.

And it promptly shut down.

Oh nuts, I said. OK, I'll set the AKB switch to TEST again so I can select a good video input. So I did, and powered up the XG.

And it promptly shut down.

"Oh nuts" wasn't exactly the term I used this time.

At first I thought it was doing this with either a VIDEO or an RGBHV signal (and I was NOT happy), but then I realized I didn't have the laptop set to send video to the external VGA. Once I turned that on, the PJ powered up and locked onto it, and I went ahead and deleted the Svideo input. But it won't lock onto the composite signal on VIDEO, and it shuts down if I try to select either the NTSC3.58 or the NTSC4.43 inputs. Both of them appear to be identical, with 15.75 kHz / 59.95 Hz settings.

Doug, if I've got to use VIDEO to calibrate this beastie, how do I get it to accept the signal? And is it really supposed to shut down any time it doesn't see a video input? (I.e. it's required to have a DVD or something feeding a signal before you can even power it up??)

Gary
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Old 10-01-2004, 11:28 AM
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Gary,
Ok let me get this right. Did you store a low contrast signal in the projector?
It will be needed to keep it running.

You need to do a signal entry for video first and make sure you are on that input.

Is the projector set to come up in video or RGB at first power up? Be careful how many times it shuts down. It can pop the HV board. Doug
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Old 10-01-2004, 11:50 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm not sure what you mean by "store a low contrast signal." Do you mean e.g. I'm displaying the laptop's RGBHV signal, and I set the contrast low and store that? If so, yes, I've done that. I haven't done it for VIDEO because I can't display it, and it has to be the active input to adjust its contrast, doesn't it? How can I lower VIDEO's contrast if I can't display it?

(When I tell it to store, what exactly does it store? E.g. if I go to PIC FUNC and change the BRIGHT and CONTRAST, then hit STORE, does it only store the one I'm currently displaying, or both of them, or...?)

How do I do the signal entry for video if I can't display it? There are two existing inputs for video, NTSC3.58 and NTSC4.43. Neither one works. (There's also PAL and SECAM, but I assume that's not an issue for me in the US.) What should I be doing to get a VIDEO signal that the projector can actually display?

The power-up default is set to LAST, so it should come up in the last active input. (But sometimes it will come up in PAL !??) I could set it to default to VIDEO, but if VIDEO causes it to shut down then I'd be in trouble, wouldn't I?

I'll try to avoid the shutdown case, but until I figure out how to display VIDEO I'm not sure how to avoid it. I shut it down way too many times when I was first trying to understand what was going on. I'll be more careful now.

Thanks!! -- Gary
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Old 10-01-2004, 12:29 PM
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Gary,
The lower contrast is needed so it doesnt trip the protect 1-2. You have to hit store then enter for it to store a setting.

I would say the pots have been turned if it wont run on no input if set to the test position in video or the video default was overwritten at any one time.

There is a 'back door' you can try but first think what rgb setting you had when it fired up (signal entry line) and if the computer was fully booted and running the signal. If you can power it up there it will tell us alot.

On the XG RGB input is 1, video is input 2, and s-video 3. Confirm the composite video is working with a TV first. You may not have it selected on the DVD player. Doug
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Old 10-01-2004, 01:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
The lower contrast is needed so it doesnt trip the protect 1-2. You have to hit store then enter for it to store a setting.
Right, I understand that. But: 1) how can I store something in a VIDEO signal if I can't display the VIDEO signal? I can't edit the CONTRAST on a non-active signal, can I? and 2) what exactly gets stored when you hit STORE? **ONLY** the thing you're currently displaying? (e.g. if I hit PIC FUNC and adjust CONTRAST, then hit STORE, does it store the CONTRAST value but not the BRIGHT value?)

And even if the CONTRAST was too high on the VIDEO, wouldn't the AKB TEST mode defeat that?

Quote:
I would say the pots have been turned if it wont run on no input if set to the test position in video or the video default was overwritten at any one time.
Oh, LOVELY. :(

Quote:
There is a 'back door' you can try but first think what rgb setting you had when it fired up (signal entry line) and if the computer was fully booted and running the signal. If you can power it up there it will tell us alot.
Are you saying what RGB setting it had when **my laptop** (NOT the computer in the XG) was fully booted up? Yes, the computer was booted up and displaying a desktop -- if I didn't have a signal from the laptop, then the XG shuts down. Yes, I can get the values when it fires up. What exactly do you want from the signal entry line? The frequencies for RGB are 15.74 kHz and 59.94 Hz, - & - sync. What else do you need?

Quote:
On the XG RGB input is 1, video is input 2, and s-video 3.
??? You don't mean the signal input 1 2 and 3, do you? On mine, signal 01 is NTSC3.58, 02 is NTSC4.43, 03 is PAL, 04 is SECAM, 05 is VESA1024 (RGB), 05 is DVD (component), 06 is PC (RGB, the signal I created for my laptop), 51 is NTSC 51, 52 is NTSC 52, 53 is RGB 53.

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Confirm the composite video is working with a TV first. You may not have it selected on the DVD player.
Certainly possible, and in fact at least once I had it plugged into the VIDEO IN instead of VIDEO OUT on the combo DVD/VCR. (D'oh!! :)) Unfortunately I don't have a TV that accepts composite in!! But, hmmm. I DO have some VCRs that accept video in... :) So yes. Now I'm certain there's a good composite signal going into the VIDEO input.

Are you **SURE** I can't calibrate it using RGB? :( Especially given the comments on p. 10-24 saying "If the adjusting signal is different, " etc? But I suppose if things are as hosed as it appears they may be, then even if it was OK to calibrate on RGB, I've still got other problems.

Gary
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Old 10-01-2004, 02:00 PM
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Gary,
I just have a few more minutes to help but will try. All this was answered before but will try again.

1) No
2) Nothing unless you hit enter afterwards
Test, defeates brightness and runs mostly off the pots for reference.
2b) No, just brightness but you can store a lower contrast.

Back door:
Running RGB at 15.75 kHz the same freq as video (need a RGB generator) after entered use this for the freq block 15-25 kHz default and what the video input should go to, enough to get it running on this default and get the perimeters wrote down that let it run.

Calibrate:
If you want the protects 1-2 to work right you will need 15.75 kHz, in your case without the right test equipment and understanding of defaults you can use RGB but wont allow you to eliminate the signal chain as the possible problem. Even then you could have a video decoder board thats off.

Input number:
Not scan line number listed in the entry list but the button to push on the remote to bring up the correct input. If you try to select from the input list it wont go if the signal properties dont match, it will end up back in the 50s line if something is close..sometimes.

Id first work on getting the signal to flow and make sure you have that input selected. If that doesnt work you will need to input 15.75 kHz RGB to store a default to use.

Will the projector power up on anything in the test position? Doug
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Old 10-01-2004, 02:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Doug, I truly appreciate all the help you're giving me. I apologize that I'm not getting all you're giving.

Yes, the projector WILL power up on the laptop's RGB input, with the AKB switch set to NORMAL *or* TEST.

I'm going to have to read through your description and try to understand it. You say I need an RGB generator -- isn't that what my laptop/VGA/RGBHV is doing? But it's probably not 15.75 kHz though. I'll check. The composite signal from the DVD is 15.75 kHz, but I don't have a way to split that out to RGBHV. You're saying I need to feed a signal into RGBHV with the same frequency as composite video, right?

So you're saying I could feed a 15.75 kHz signal into the RGBHV inputs, then write down the values from that (which values?) and enter them into the 15-25 kHz block via ADJUST -> OPTION -> DEFAULT DATA? Or do I enter it into one of the input lines in the 50's?
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Old 10-01-2004, 02:51 PM
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Gary,
You first want to write any value down that lets it run.

You need the 15.75 kHz because the projector works off of freq to voltage, this is called the F/V circuit.

You need good voltage settings first and it appears you dont but to be sure its needed. Something is throwing the protect 1-2 off and we know that. It could just be to high of values set to run the video input or something else is off.

If you can get the RGB at 15.75 kHz entered in the first signal entry position it will look at that first. Just use the kelvin white balance to check all the settings for now with out changing reference white balance, if it runs at the lower settings then you have something to work with without tripping the protects. Need to leave but take a look at the difference between reference white balance and white balance. Reference white balance is something you shouldnt be doing because it involves a scope and pre board adjustments BUT you can check the 2.5V to see if they are close. Doug
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Old 10-02-2004, 07:38 AM - Thread Starter
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You first want to write any value down that lets it run.
See, now this is the kind of statement that leaves me a little confused. WHICH values? There must be at least 100 values squirrelled away in various menus. Are they ALL critical?

Finding a 15.75kHz RGB source might be tough. I don't know if any common PC resolutions produce that frequency, but I doubt it. Maybe 640x480 is close. How close does it have to be? Does it just have to fit into the 15-25 kHz band?
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Old 10-02-2004, 08:21 AM
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Gary,
White balance values that may be tripping protect 1-2 if adjusted to high. These are under kelvin and show each colors value and where its set for a perticular input. Look on page 10-28 and 29 and prior pages. You change colors by holding the CTL button down then select the R-G-or B. The top value is the high end IRE and the bottom is the low IRE

You will need a signal generator or a older controller that will convert composite to RGBHV maintaining the video freq.

If the pots havent been turned these will be somewhere around the mid-point of the value. S Manual says 50% as a start point.

There is a right way and wrong way for no signal shut off of the tubes. In your case no signal is shutting it down so you have something off. Once you find that you should be able to enter a new signal for video and be on the video input even with that signal not running. Doug
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Old 10-07-2004, 01:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Doug (the ever-patient and amazingly-helpful) and I (the appallingly confused :)) have had a few exchanges. Through a fluke I got the VIDEO input working so I could do a "proper" calibration. I've gone through the manual's shortened white balance procedure (p. 10-28 in the service manual) and then went on to Guy's white-bal process. This has definitely improved things; for example, before I couldn't display an 80-100 IRE image without the projector shutting down, and now I can.

Some oddities: when I reduced the BRIGHT GAIN to try to get the dark edges to meet in the center (step 14E in Guy's process), the brightness level would decrease to a particular level. Reducing BRIGHT GAIN below that level wouldn't darken it any more, and in fact would sometimes brighten it a bit. Is this normal? I reduced BRIGHT GAIN until the brightness stopped changing, then went on to the next step.

I also couldn't get the black edges to actually MEET in the center. They just wouldn't go any further before they stopped, as described above. So I did the best I could, and exited the loop when the G2 was 2.5V. Does this indicate a problem?

I didn't get to the Drive Control settings in steps 19-22 of Guy's process. XG guys, any help on these points?

* I'm not quite sure how I'm supposed to calibrate the grayscale in step 19. Can somebody explain this step in a bit more detail? Is this a matter of adjusting R and B so 100 looks white and 30 looks gray? So far I haven't hung the XG so I'm doing all of this looking at the tube faces {and I think I have sunburned eyeballs!! :)}. I assume if I'm supposed to do this kind of grayscale adjustment, I should hang the projector, and do a basic setup with alignment/convergence/etc before trying to set the grayscale on the screen?

* In step 20, are you supposed to ONLY adjust BLACK BIAS to get 2.5V, or are there any other interacting steps?

* I don't understand how I'm supposed to adjust Brightness / Contrast / Kelvin for each "memory slot" (step 22). Does this refer to each input line (e.g. 01 is NTSC3.58, 02 is NTSC4.43, and there are others for RGB, DVD, etc) ? How can I adjust these if I don't have a way to display them? (Haven't tried it yet, but I always got a shutdown before if I selected them.) Am I just supposed to set them to Brt = 60, Cont = 75, Kelvin = 6500 ?

Thanks!
Gary
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Old 10-07-2004, 03:58 PM
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Gary,
You can do so much looking in the tube face, then it needs to be put up on the screen and use the optics.

Before you start (service manual procedure) you put the drive control at mid point and most likely the problem. Its there in the first paragraph as signal conditions.

The basics of a multi-purpose projector is 60 brightness and 75 contrast, 6500K but we usually dont use those settings in a controlled environment.

Guy stated he uses about 50 I think for 100IRE contrast or where it peaks.
Some are above a bit more.

If you dont have a colormeter you will need to reach a comfortable greyscale by eye, using low IRE this can be reached better by looking in the lens first using a greyscale or split pattern ramp.

Your exact application for your HT is your spec and really cant be set at any given spot so we use 6500K low and high IRE.

The fact that you have it running now at 100IRE is a positive and just needs more thought to dial in for RGB use and you never know about the signal chain and why I suggest video for a start point as the manual does but hoping the video decoder is still set right, it sounds like yours was ok.

In a perfect world where reference white balance was set perfect and not overwritten and AKB was stored you shouldnt have to do all inputs but in some cases you will need to bring back into spec if messed with to much or by not understanding the procedures or defaults.

My gut feeling is get it in spec, hang it and use it, all the other stuff is part of the learning curve making it better. If it doesnt like something it will shut down and what you just worked through. It can only do what you tell it to but its important to not let it shut down to much and dont let it cycle on and off. Double check the HV board settings for protect 1-2 and keep the right voltage at 100% contrast for both.

Id shoot for 60 brightness and 55 contrast range. Set temp at 6500K.
Depending on what stored you might have to do each signal but try to store a low contrast first. Doug
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Old 10-07-2004, 09:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Holy smokes. I just got off the phone with Doug. This thing definitely WAS NOT intended for Joe Public to set up. It's like you've heard a PC is a good tool for writing documents & such, so you buy a used one -- but then you discover in order to use the PC you have to understand and configure all the low-level Windows hardware drivers!!! And the previous owner has it totally misconfigured and you have to figure out how to get it to a working state. And if you do the wrong thing, you blow up your computer (projector).... eeeeek!!

At one point Doug said "I'm trying to scare the hell out of you" ... he succeeded!! It seems that a lot of my troubles were caused by one dumb error when I was first starting to play with the 852 and had no clue what I was doing. I had been feeding an RGB signal from a laptop, and had something that was better than what I started with. So I copied the RGB settings to an Svideo input, thinking that I had a decent start with the RGB settings, so I'd use those as a starting point for the new Svideo input. But because Svideo is basically the same as composite video once it gets inside the projector, that meant I OVERWROTE the fundamental default VIDEO-signal settings (on which everything else depends) with my fairly bogus RGB settings! And that not only hosed many of the global settings in the projector, it resulted in many many shutdowns of the projector (when the HV board tripped its protection circuits), and Doug says you can only do so many of those before the HV board blows up! *cringe*

So, with hopefully the proper amount of fear/caution instilled in me, I'm going to proceed a bit more carefully.........

Doug says it can take him THREE DAYS to fully tune up an XG. With all his experience and expensive test equipment, it's still a huge job. So you can imagine how likely I am to do it right myself. :rolleyes: But Doug says it sounds like I've got it to the point where I should be able to start aligning it &etc without burning anything out. So it may be a very long road to get a really good picture, and I'll probably never get what the thing is capable of, but hopefully it will be worth the journey!!

Gary
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Old 10-07-2004, 09:53 PM
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Gary,
Its kind of overwhelming I know but look at it this way. A few days ago it wouldnt run and now it is so you are making progress. The learning curve is reading the service manual.

If you go in steps and understand, it should be fun, wasnt this what we went through with Kenny G and he taught us alot about perseverance even though we couldnt locate Guy for a few months afterwards? Doug
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Old 10-14-2004, 10:04 PM - Thread Starter
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OK, after a brief interlude during which life once again interferes with HT.....

I ran a few more tests on the XG. Doug, as you suggested, I checked the Protect 1 & 2 on the HV PWB. Unfortunately something is still a bit off and the set is still prone to shutting down when it shouldn't. In this case it meant I couldn't get the brightness above about 85-90 on an IRE100 screen. The Protect1/2 test procedure says bright & contrast should be at MAX, but I couldn't. So I got as close as I could and checked that. With contrast at 100 and bright at 85, Protect 2 was 1.32V, Protect 1 was 1.45V. Not 1.50V like it should be, but.... hey wait a minute. I just realized I wrote down 1.32 and 1.45, but they're supposed to be 0.15, not 1.50. Ummm. Doug, is there any way those values could be 1.3-1.4V? (And if so, what do I do??) Or did I misread the DVM and slip a decimal place? Unfortunately after checking that, I buttoned it up and started preparing to hoist it, since the next steps require checking grayscale.

If you need me to double-check the prot1/2 voltages, I'll do that. If it's not necessary, I'd rather not open it up, warm it up, and run the tests again. At least not until I get it hung.

Then I set the AKB switch to TEST, set Bright=60 and Cont=100, centered the white balance (KELVIN W/B) and centered the Drive for R & B. Checked the G2's and they were 2.50 +/- .05V. Set AKB on, back out, store, back in, turn off AKB and set AKB switch to NORMAL.

Next step is starting the convergence/etc steps. But first I have to hang the projector, check the physical alignment (level & true to screen, etc), and that will take me a while.

Gary
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Old 10-14-2004, 10:29 PM
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Gary,
If your not using the video input then you may not hit spec voltage. You have to use video or 15.75 kHz.

The HV needs to be set first then the protects. Look at the pre set up signal conditions on HV board set up in the service manual and follow exact.

Dont hang until you can confirm normal operation of the protects.
Check meter for DC volts auto range. Doug
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Old 10-14-2004, 10:43 PM - Thread Starter
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I was using the video input, NTSC.

Setting the HV first -- you mean step 2 in the "Adjustments for HV PWB Replacement" on page 10-11? Unfortunately my DMM can't handle 32kV. I'll have to borrow one to do that. But since the VR is sealed in silicone, it shouldn't have been changed, right? Am I just double-checking to make sure something else didn't change it?

Sigh. Don't hang until I confirm protects? Which means I need a DMM that can measure 32kV? And I need to check the protect 1/2 properly, which requires 100 brightness, which shuts down the PJ !?? How can I test it if it shuts down the PJ??
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Old 10-14-2004, 11:47 PM
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Gary,
If your board is sealed you cant really change it unless you replace the VR (pots) so you can adjust.

You need a HV probe to test kV with the DMM, use a multiplier of 1K and set to 32V.

My gut feeling is you have to high of settings in reference or white balance or the pots were moved but you shouldnt attempt that level unless you know the whole procedure and know whats safe.

You might try to do Guys procedure but use 100% contrast instead of what he uses which I think is 50. This should lower the settings. You can get bright gain up to high for the higher end IRE and also bright bias for the lower IRE.

Your at a spot that really needs to be checked and corrected, it could be the pre board adjustments. If you do check the HV do it with caution and have someone there to catch you if you mess up, its safer on the ground instead of a ladder.

Do not insert or remove the probe tip with it running. Doug
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Old 10-15-2004, 07:22 AM
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Gary/Doug,

I did my HV Check with the projector hanging, but I have low ceilings. I think that the decision point is can you touch the PJ while standing on the floor. The HV board is located on a panel that swings down and the protect circuits are lower to the ground when you swing the panel down. The HV probe has a long handle on it, which allows access from a lower point also. I agree with Doug, if you can't avoid using a ladder to check this, it should be done with the projector on the ground. Also to reinforce what Doug says, the readings will be different when using a video source than a different source. The correct source is critical.

See Doug, I am capable of learning!! :D

Pete
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Old 10-15-2004, 09:03 AM - Thread Starter
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Yeah, it seems like the readings are different if ANYTHING changes -- any of the picture settings, the test pattern you're displaying, the color of the carpet, the phase of the moon ....

I'm 6'4" and the ceiling is under 8'. The PJ will hang down another 15" or more -- I'll have to duck to avoid bonking my head. :) So I'm not worried about falling off a ladder.

I believe all the pots on the HV board are sealed. They're weird-lookin' beasties, black cylinders with white tabs sticking out all over. Apparently the white is the silicone they used to seal the pots. I'll take a picture of the HV board so you can see it, if that would be helpful.

An HV probe, eh? Guess I could even make my own if I wanted, see e.g. http://home.austin.rr.com/cthompson15/HVProbe.html. Just a voltage divider, nothing tough about that. That one is only a 10x multkplier, but it would be easy to change the resistor values to get 1000x. Or I could buy a used Fluke for maybe $20. Not sure what the input resistance of my DMM is -- probably 10Mohm, but... it's a cheapie and I probably just oughta spring for a better DMM anyway.

OK. I'll scare up an HV probe and check the HV, but I'll probably go ahead and get this beast on the ceiling while I do that.
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Old 10-15-2004, 09:30 AM
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Gary,

You have correctly identified the pots. No need to send a picture. I have done the calibration, and Doug definitely knows what the pots look like. It sounds like your height and the ceiling height are such that doing this calibration with the PJ mounted will not create a problem. I would try to rent a HV probe. How would you know if your home made probe is properly calibrated/accurate?
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Old 10-18-2004, 08:51 PM - Thread Starter
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None of the electronics shops in town have HV probes, believe it or not. I'll dig one up on fleabay or somewhere. But I'm assuming I only need it for a "just to make sure" check, since the pots are sealed. They should still be set right.

So while I've been looking for an HV probe, I've been busy. I wrestled the beast onto the ceiling the other day, so I can proceed with the setup process now. I'll go back and check the HV when I get an HV probe.

I'll be doing the physical setup on the box soon: getting the CRT level & square to screen, hanging the screen exactly where the PJ throws a picture with all menu settings normalized, etc.

QUESTION: does anybody have a good procedure to follow here? If not, I'll be trying to apply Tinman's PG setup guide to the XG.

QUESTION: the PG has magnets for centering, setting rotation, etc. (Astig too, but I don't want to mess with that yet.) I don't see anything about those in the XG manual. Is ALL that supposed to be done with the menus?

QUESTION: how do you adjust the grayscale? I'm not sure if this is done with the KELVIN W/B sliders (for each signal), or with the BRIGHT GAIN / BRIGHT BIAS / BLACK BIAS settings (one global setting), or what. I think I'm confusing white balance with grayscale settings? Guy Kuo's guide says you should use DRIVE CONTROL for 100 IRE and BRIGHT BIAS for 30 IRE. Help?? Some details would help here...


So I believe the things to do now are:

* Set the Drive level on R & B to midpoint. Set RGB Kelvin W/B to midpoint.

* Display 100 IRE window. Go back and re-check the Protect 1/2 voltages and make sure they were actually .13 and not 1.3, etc.

* Set AKB switch to TEST position, verify RGB G2's at 2.5V. Adjust with Black Bias if wrong.

* Do a rough check on grayscale, then verify G2's are still < 2.5V.

* AKB ON, store, AKB OFF.

* Set AKB switch to NORMAL position.

* I think this is the point where I should run through Guy Kuo's G2 settings. I've done this several times already, but it's an iterative process and I want to run through it after doing the above.


Now start to build a "perfect" VIDEO signal:

* Do physical setup. Level & square, focus & aim CRTs, etc. Any other steps I should be doing in the physical setup??

* Center rasters, center image in rasters. I believe this is done with the RASTER CENTERING item in the REF.ADJUST menu, then center the image with the POSITION menu.

Since I'm working with the VIDEO input at this point, and VIDEO signals are going to be 4:3, I'll be setting up a 4:3 image here. (Right?)

QUESTION: I intend to run a 1.85:1 raster, and any 4:3 signals will be in the middle of the 1.85:1 raster. Do I set the 1.85:1 raster size at this point with the VERTICAL BLANKING control, and set up the VIDEO signal with a small 4:3 image inside the 1.85:1 raster, or...???

* Center the test patterns in the raster with the CURSOR PHASE adjustment.

* Do electrical FOCUS for each gun.

* Erase all POINT settings. (How??)

* Do complete ALIGNMENT for Green gun.

* Do STATIC alignment of R & B to Green. R & B should already be aligned horizontally with the lens aiming, but fine-tune it and adjust vertical alignment.

* Do full CONVERGENCE of R & B to Green. Doug says I should NOT use the MCAT, but should do it "by hand." Grumble.

* Adjust PHASE. Not entirely sure what this is supposed to do.

* Adjust color temperature. (I won't be doing this since I don't have a colorimeter.)

* Adjust grayscale with KELVIN W/B settings, or at least that's what the service manual seems to indicate on p. 4.59. (??? I thought you were supposed to adjust grayscale with DRIVE CONTROL and BRIGHT BIAS??)


OK, that's our "perfect" video setting.

* STORE everything.

* Turn on AKB, store, turn off.

* Set this VIDEO signal to be the DEFAULT.


So now I have a wonderful setting for VIDEO. But I don't intend to watch much with the VIDEO input. What do I do to set up the RGB input for watching DVDs at 1.85:1 720p from my Momitsu DVD player?

Gary
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Old 10-19-2004, 06:56 AM
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I believe I read that you purchased AVIA?? Put it in your DVD player. Create a signal entry for the 720p setting. You will want to do ASTIG and focus at this higher level entry. Once this is complete, work on alignment and convergence for this entry.
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Old 10-19-2004, 09:39 AM - Thread Starter
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Yes, I do have Avia. I'm just a little unclear on the process of creating the new signal.

Doug says building the perfect signal in NTSC VIDEO, and setting that as the default, configures everything and then all new signals somehow use that setup. So how do I create the new signal?

- Set up the Momitsu to output 720p. Doug recommends 72Hz.
- Feed the RGBHV from the Momo to the XG
- Somehow the XG locks onto this? (And hopefully doesn't shut itself down!) It uses the appropriate memories for that signal frequency, which I don't entirely understand (where are those memories stored?) but I know it does it.
- I save the settings to a new signal line?
- Then I do the focus (electrical only, I assume), astig, alignment, convergence, etc, saving as I go.
- Any other settings I should work through for the new signal? Not Guy Kuo's G2 procedure, since that adjusts global settings. But what else?
- Presumably the next time I fire up the XG with 720p from the DVD, it will automatically select the 720p input signal?

Does the rest of my procedure above look correct? I hope to start working through it tonight or tomorrow and I'd like to have some confidence I'm doing the right things...

Gary
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Old 10-19-2004, 10:24 AM
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Page 19 of the setup manual details how to create a new entry.

Select <adjust>
Select <1> Signal Entry
Select <New Entry>
Select <input A>
Select <RGB>
Name the entry
Select entry Number
Select the entry that you created your video signal
Select "Except H-Posi and Phase"

Select <store><yes>

Proceed to Alignment and touch up all of your parameters, then convergence.

a word on Raster centering.

You need to center the raster, then do a linearity check. Put up a grid and measure from the center to the edge on both sides. Adjust to equal amount, recenter your raster and the image, check linearity and repeat as necessary.

Pete
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Old 10-19-2004, 10:59 AM
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Gary,
The video signal entry eliminates and finds pre board problems and its needed to take voltages for your reference white balance- white balance.

The video default is seperate from rgb defaults but will be needed if that input is hit and for no signal conditions. Without the video freq you wont know if the projector is in spec to run RGB. IE: HV-protect 1-2 and shut down problems relating to reference.

Service Manual:
You really need to read the service manual then apply it to the Avia procedure that assumes everything is in spec. Most of the questions above are answered there.

Memory and default blocks are outlined as well as where to find them. Page 122 / 4-122' Viewing Default Data' in the middle of the page.

Signal Entry page 19 / 4-17. Doug
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Old 10-19-2004, 12:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Pete, thanks. I understand how to do the mechanics of creating the new signal. It's details and concepts that aren't explained in the manual -- like copy "except Hpos and Phase," NOT "All" -- that have me worried. Following mechanical steps in the manual, without understanding the ramifications of the process and how it interacts with a dozen other things, is exactly how I screwed up my XG in the first place. I copied an RGB signal into an Svideo signal, and suddenly the whole thing blew up. I've spent a month since then trying to learn how to un-do the damage I did, hopefully before I fry the HV board.

Centering: I put the lenses back on my projector before I hung it. Guess I shouldn't have put those on until I did a good raster-centering job. Ohwell, that's why I bought the extra-long Phillips screwdriver. :)

Doug, I really have read through the manual, honest I have. But it's like trying to read a technical manual written in German when you've only got "restaurant and hotel level" German abilities. It goes into gory detail on trivia like "if you push the up-arrow button it increases the value, if you push the down-arrow button it decreases the value" (duh, like I couldn't figure that out), but it almost never explains the important concepts like what the value IS, what it controls, why you would want to change it, what process you should use to set it properly, what other things it interacts with, etc etc etc.

The service manual makes perfect sense to you because you already understand this stuff. I don't, not yet anyway, and it DOESN'T make perfect sense to me. Telling me the manual will answer all my questions doesn't help me. The manual does NOT answer the questions, for me, which is why I keep asking for clarification here. Even when I read the manual, I'm never sure I'm understanding the process right. I'm making progress and understanding more all the time, but it's a slow and painful struggle.

Page references like 4-122 for Default data are helpful. That at least ensures I'm looking at the right thing for the concept you're discussing.

Gary
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