Mounting on a Vaulted Ceiling - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 22 Old 06-16-2007, 09:08 PM - Thread Starter
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I've had my Ampro 3600 for a few years now, and haven't had any problems with it in ages. Now I'm looking to make myself some trouble I guess.

The room I have set up is a bit awkward for mounting. It has a vaulted ceiling tapering down in height towards the screen. When I mounted the projector I ended up attaching it to the underside of a shelf at the high end, which made it close to regular ceiling height. However, it's always been too far away from the screen, causing me to run it at near minimum height and width. I'd like to fix that, so that I can get closer to the full potential of the projector.

I've seen vaulted ceiling adapters, like this one, but don't know if they'd handle the weight, perhaps with more than one?

I've also thought about getting a local guy to weld something up to adapt the ceiling angle to flat, and working from there.

Unfortunately, I believe I'll need to drop a couple feet in addition to the angle problem, so stability is also a concern.

Has anyone mounted a CRT on a vaulted ceiling? Any tips or other ideas?
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post #2 of 22 Old 06-17-2007, 01:27 AM
 
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The astonishing thing with your post - according to some, anyway - is that you've run an Ampro for several years without problems.

I doubt that that particular ceiling mount would handle the weight either. I have seen photos of Sony G90 (~250 lbs.) installations that hung the projector from a single pipe. But I don't know where this mount can be found.

Have you considered floor mounting? Seems a good solution for your situation, although I doubt it would fit in with your decor.
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post #3 of 22 Old 06-17-2007, 03:21 AM
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I've got several DLPs hanging from those at my office... One would be a problem, but three or four might serve you well, especially if you make up the PJ half with unistrut:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=185-552

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post #4 of 22 Old 06-17-2007, 03:56 AM
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Congrat's another happy AmPro owner. It sounds like you have a project ahead of you. The first thing you should do is inspect the tube faces for small wear patterns given you've been using it for years with reduced raster. If you have a factory projector mount, it will have places on it where the flanges go that the pipes thread into (2) pipes. I like the idea of having a professional welder make a adapter to the ceiling. You will have to open the ceiling to attach it so you might as well take that time to snake power, remote extension and RGBHV lines to it at the same time. You hide the wiring inside the support pipes. If you don't have the factory mount, you're close to Curt Palme. I'll bet he has one. Pipe mounting instructions are in the owners manual.

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post #5 of 22 Old 06-17-2007, 12:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Well, the only time I've had issues was actually something I caused myself. Just took a month or so of conversations with Curt to work out that I was the cause. Since then, haven't had a problem with it.

I've taken at least the red lense off, both to look for wear but also to confirm for myself that I wasn't using nearly as much raster as I should be. I've also looked through the lenses at the other tubes, and couldn't see any significant wear. There was very light wear on the green, but it wasn't in the shape of the current setup.

Picture attached, don't flail me, but I am correct that fixing the mechanical setup should improve image quality pretty significantly?

I don't have an original mount, I used unistrut to mount it and used the attachment points straight on the projector. I'll check with Curt on that one.
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post #6 of 22 Old 06-17-2007, 03:48 PM
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Red wear won't tell you much... it does not wear much! (The chemicals in red phosphor are less prone to burning, and our eyes are more sensitive to red light therefor red is driven less hard AND burns last.)
Green and blue burn hottest and burn out quickest.


(That raster might just qualify as tube abuse!)

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post #7 of 22 Old 06-17-2007, 06:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vanessa View Post

Picture attached, don't flail me,.

i'm soprry but we're going t ohave to flail you for doing that. Based on my experience, that Pj needs to come forward about 2 feet . When I went from 75% raster usage to 94% on my Marquee (same tubes) the picture got a lot sharper and even thouguh my screen size went up 30% the brightness almost stayed the same.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vanessa View Post

I don't have an original mount, I used unistrut to mount it and used the attachment points straight on the projector. I'll check with Curt on that one.

I wish I could help, I have a drop-mount for a g70 but not an ampro. A local welder should be able to fab. something for about $200. I would think. Tell him to use 1/8" thick sheetmetal and some similar heavy-wall steel tubing, attach it to at least 2 roof joists and it will be rock-solid. I can provide some pics of the g70 mount if it will help with design.

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post #8 of 22 Old 06-17-2007, 07:01 PM
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This is what I'm using for my barco. It was suppose to be temporary, but has been in use for a couple of years. I shoud cover it up, just haven't got to it. THe winch is a must. Makes changes a snap.

MIKE
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post #9 of 22 Old 06-17-2007, 07:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skylooker1 View Post

This is what I'm using for my barco. It was suppose to be temporary, but has been in use for a couple of years. I shoud cover it up, just haven't got to it. THe winch is a must. Makes changes a snap.

MIKE

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post #10 of 22 Old 06-17-2007, 09:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skylooker1 View Post

This is what I'm using for my barco. It was suppose to be temporary, but has been in use for a couple of years. I shoud cover it up, just haven't got to it. THe winch is a must. Makes changes a snap.
MIKE

that's the problem with temporary things, they tend to stick around. you really need to build a box or something over all that ugly strut and while your at it paint that White ceiling so you can get some of that great CRT constrast ratio.

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post #11 of 22 Old 06-18-2007, 08:07 AM
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hows the picture quality with that thing.
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post #12 of 22 Old 06-18-2007, 09:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crj900 View Post

hows the picture quality with that thing.

the picture quality with any properly functioning 8 inch electromagnetic focusing CRT is fantastic (Barco 808/1208/ Ampro 3300, Marquee 8500, NEC XG, Sony G70, etc. ). You simply need to feed them a 720P hi-def signal to enjoy a picture that will put your local cinema to shame.

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post #13 of 22 Old 06-18-2007, 03:43 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crj900 View Post

hows the picture quality with that thing.

Actually pretty decent, I just know it's capable of much more and my physical setup is the limiting factor.

Quote:
Originally Posted by skylooker1 View Post

This is what I'm using for my barco. It was suppose to be temporary, but has been in use for a couple of years. I shoud cover it up, just haven't got to it. THe winch is a must. Makes changes a snap.

MIKE

What kind of angle do you have on that ceiling? That looks to be just a standard unistrut setup, which is what I have now. Are the ceiling attached members shimmed to be flat or is the threaded rod hanging at something other than 90 degrees to the ceiling?

Thanks
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post #14 of 22 Old 06-18-2007, 03:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtnfoley View Post

Red wear won't tell you much... it does not wear much! (The chemicals in red phosphor are less prone to burning, and our eyes are more sensitive to red light therefor red is driven less hard AND burns last.)
Green and blue burn hottest and burn out quickest.


(That raster might just qualify as tube abuse!)

I know, it is tube abuse, but it was a matter of using it mounting it how I could at the time, or letting it sit longer. Temporary solutions always end up lasting longer than they should.

I'll take a look at green and blue, though through the lenses I didn't see much. I'll take them off and make sure I'm not going to regret moving it.

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post #15 of 22 Old 06-18-2007, 03:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vanessa View Post

I'll take a look at green and blue, though through the lenses I didn't see much. I'll take them off and make sure I'm not going to regret moving it.

Vanessa


Really, really good idea. I'd hate to see you invest hours and dollars to move the PJ only to then decide that you need to re-tube.

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post #16 of 22 Old 06-18-2007, 04:05 PM
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What kind of angle do you have on that ceiling? That looks to be just a standard unistrut setup, which is what I have now. Are the ceiling attached members shimmed to be flat or is the threaded rod hanging at something other than 90 degrees to the ceiling?

Thanks
Vanessa[/quote]

The roof rafters are a 12/12 pitch (45degree). I have a 48" flat ceiling that is somewhere around 13 feet high.

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post #17 of 22 Old 06-18-2007, 04:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skylooker1 View Post

What kind of angle do you have on that ceiling? That looks to be just a standard unistrut setup, which is what I have now. Are the ceiling attached members shimmed to be flat or is the threaded rod hanging at something other than 90 degrees to the ceiling?

Thanks
Vanessa

The roof rafters are a 12/12 pitch (45degree). I have a 48" flat ceiling that is somewhere around 13 feet high.[/quote]

Ah, so it's high but flat. Lucky!
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post #18 of 22 Old 06-18-2007, 04:38 PM
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UniStrut has in their catalog a threaded swivel. The strut could be mounted on a sloped ceiling, with threaded rods coming down to a mount for the projector.

Here's a link to their web catalog. The parts could be ordered from an electrical supplier.

http://www.unistrut.com/literature/i...cbrc&zm=&pg=13

Bottom left.


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post #19 of 22 Old 06-18-2007, 11:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Took the lenses off to get a good look. Well, now I feel like a proper jackass for abusing the tubes. Hopefully, it's not too bad.

The green tube is the worst. The picture actually looks worse than in person, maybe the gamma of the camera or something. Judging from Curt's Tube Wear Chart I'd put it at a 7 or so. Blue shows just a slight amount of wear, and I can barely make anything out on the red tube. That said, how bad would this look if I moved it to the proper position?
LL
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post #20 of 22 Old 06-19-2007, 03:15 PM
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To look at things backwards...are you at liberty to move the screen closer? You didn't describe your viewing area/room layout so I'm just throwing this out there. If you have a stage or dead space in front of the screenyou might be able to move the screen 2 ft and only have to come up with another way to hang the screen....much easier than moving the beast.
If the pj isn't hanging in a dedicated HT then I suppose this might not work for you.

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post #21 of 22 Old 06-19-2007, 04:13 PM - Thread Starter
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No, I can't move the screen forwards any more, in fact it's already been done. I have about 10" of dead space behind the screen.

Anybody have an opinion on how visible the wear mark would be?

Thanks
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post #22 of 22 Old 06-19-2007, 05:13 PM
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I've had worse, windows logo burn.

You will notice it, others will probably not. The only time it was real visible was during white or light scenes.

Go ahead and try it, If it's real bad find another tube or wait to upgrade.

MIKE

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